Masking fluid for Acrylics?

[KevO]

Hi all, newly registered here having just returned to modelling after a surprisingly long hiatus.

 

What do you fine folk use as a masking fluid over acrylics (inc future dipped canopies)? My online searches suggest that many popular makes contain ammonia which obviously is not compatible. 

 

 

[Greenshirt]

Actually I've found "it depends" on the paint line and the masking fluid you use. 

 

Generally I've had success using Humbrol Maskol with water based acrylics, like Humbrol and Vallejo. Other masking solutions that have ammonia seem to work similarly.

 

With solvent based acrylics MicroMask works well, as does an acrylic friendly masking fluid from my local art shop ($$). 

[LaurieS]

3 hours ago, KevO said:

Hi all, newly registered here having just returned to modelling after a surprisingly long hiatus.

 

What do you fine folk use as a masking fluid over acrylics (inc future dipped canopies)? My online searches suggest that many popular makes contain ammonia which obviously is not compatible. 

 

 

 

Answering from another direction Kev. Why are you using masking fluid for ? I have not found it is necessary in most, hardly any, cases. Mainly as there are other better methods available.

 

There are many paper tapes Tamiya among others. These are available in many thicknesses although I found it better to cut a thickness required from a wider tape. By doing so you get a clean edge.

I,as many others, have managed to mask with tape down to less than a millimeter.

 

Another tape I use which I found superb is car lining tape . Green for straight lines. Blue for acute curves. Again cut the thickness required.

 

Tapes especially the plastic give a clean line. The plastic ones especially will go around very acute curves. Very very acute curves a piece can be cut from wider tape with the shape required.

 

My problem with masking liquid you can never be sure you have covered the area required. Difficult to get a nice clean line as tape. I have had problems removing the stuff and when i do it seems to take some of the paint.

I use it only where I have a situation, rare, where tape has not proved satisfactory. True masking liquid is quicker to apply but then if you want nice crisp lines of paint separation tape will give that.

 

Laurie

 

 

[KevO]

Laurie, the fluid was to be used to fill in canopy panels where the edges were first defined with a tape mask.

[LaurieS]

2 hours ago, KevO said:

Laurie, the fluid was to be used to fill in canopy panels where the edges were first defined with a tape mask.

 

I find it is best to use tape on those areas Kev. easier to remove. I use a cheap B & Q tape a roll will last for ever.

 

Laurie

[Tbolt]

2 hours ago, KevO said:

Laurie, the fluid was to be used to fill in canopy panels where the edges were first defined with a tape mask.

 

I do the same for the finally varnish coat - not point wasting time with masking tape, quicker just painting on some fluid which doesn't have to be as accurate.

 

Sometimes I will add a small bit of tape in the middle of that section which then makes it very easy to remove, just grip the tape and all the fluid comes with it.

Edited December 26, 2016 by Tbolt

[LaurieS]

44 minutes ago, Tbolt said:

 

I do the same for the finally varnish coat - not point wasting time with masking tape, quicker just painting on some fluid which doesn't have to be as accurate.

 

Sometimes I will add a small bit of tape in the middle of that section which then makes it very easy to remove, just grip the tape and all the fluid comes with it.

 

But you do not have to be accurate with the tape to fill in. Much quicker with tape than masking fluid plus you can work on the unit immediately. Masking tape stays sticky for a time.

Fillins on a canopy less than a minute no mess.

 

Laurie

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Tbolt]

24 minutes ago, LaurieS said:

 

But you do not have to be accurate with the tape to fill in. Much quicker with tape than masking fluid plus you can work on the unit immediately. Masking tape stays sticky for a time.

Fillins on a canopy less than a minute no mess.

 

Laurie

 

 

 

Might be better for you, but not me.

 

You still have to cut the tape to size, quicker painting masking fluid on for me. As for waiting for it to dry, by the time I've setup I my airbrush and mixed the varnish, it's ready to go. I've tried both and prefer masking fluid.

Edited December 26, 2016 by Tbolt

[KevO]

1 hour ago, Tbolt said:

 

Might be better for you, but not me.

 

You still have to cut the tape to size, quicker painting masking fluid on for me. As for waiting for it to dry, by the time I've setup I my airbrush and mixed the varnish, it's ready to go. I've tried both and prefer masking fluid.

So which fluid do you use with acrylics (if you use acrylics that is.. ).

 

 

[Tbolt]

1 hour ago, KevO said:

So which fluid do you use with acrylics (if you use acrylics that is.. ).

 

 

 

I've only painted one aircraft so far with acrylics and I normally use Humbrol's Maskol, so that's what I probably used on that. Humbrol don't say anything about not using it on acrylics.

[LaurieS]

4 hours ago, Tbolt said:

 

Might be better for you, but not me.

 

You still have to cut the tape to size, quicker painting masking fluid on for me. As for waiting for it to dry, by the time I've setup I my airbrush and mixed the varnish, it's ready to go. I've tried both and prefer masking fluid.

 

The technique is to lay tape on your cutting board. Use a Morton to cut. Flick up the end of the tape with the Morton. With Tape still on the tip of the knife offer up to model. Press down. Dead simple.

 

Laurie

[Tbolt]

3 hours ago, LaurieS said:

 

The technique is to lay tape on your cutting board. Use a Morton to cut. Flick up the end of the tape with the Morton. With Tape still on the tip of the knife offer up to model. Press down. Dead simple.

 

Laurie

 

I prefer to use the masking fluid, but it's about finding what works best for you.

[Tomjw]

I have generally had poor experiences with Humbrol Maskol over Tamiya and Gunze acrylics. I've not tried Vallejo masking fluid yet, but would love to find one that works as I've just finished painting a 1/32 Tornado in RAF camo and masking the acres of area with tape was a pain in the backside. 

 

Cheers,

 

Tom

 

[LotusArenco]

On 12/25/2016 at 10:20 PM, KevO said:

contain ammonia which obviously is not compatible.

Most masking fluids are just latex, water, ammonia and a colouring pigment. As you said, It’s the small amount of ammonia that may attack acrylics/klear. White glue/PVA might work, but I’d try it out on something scrap first before trying it on an actual model.

 

Mart

[LaurieS]

https://www.google.com/search?q=MODEL+MAKING+USING+MASKING+FLUID&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b

 

This gives numerous contents about masking which may be of help.

 

Laurie