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PC2012

MFH - 1:20 Eagle T1G 1968

60 posts in this topic

Hi Everyone,

 

My lovely wife gave me an MFH 1:20 Eagle T1G for Christmas :). Wow!

Now I know I haven't yet completed the Maserati but there is good reason for that. I ordered two more windscreens and proceeded to mess both of them up. However, I have asked Alice from Profil 24 if she can send some more and they are on their way. Completing the Maser is my priority but while I'm waiting I may as well start to sort all the parts for the Eagle. This will be my first MFH and I must admit I'm really impressed with the presentation and packaging. At first glance It certainly like looks a quality product. This will take me some time, so I'll do a full WIP. As always, any and all help will be appreciated. 

A question to start.... I would like to rivet the body work. Does anyone know (approx.) what the correct scale would be for a 1:20? 0.5mm, 0.2mm?

Thanks.. Here are a couple of pics..

 

 

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Mmmm not quite sure why the pics didn't show, I don't normally have problems with photobucket!

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Your missus has excellent taste in models and husbands.

 

Glad the Maser will be finished.

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Hi Codger,

 

Merry Christmas :) Thanks for your kind comments. I'm working on the Maser tonight, just a couple of small details. I didn't see the point in posting pics until I have the windscreen finished. I haven't done anything lately (after screwing up both screens) ...work got in the way again! I hope you had a really good day. More soon, I hope lol

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Merry Christmas, this is a great start for the new year!

 

For the body work i would go for 0.5 mm, for the tub it depends.

 

check this http://www.plastikoholik.com/t2929-ferrari-312f1-1967-chris-amon-mfh-1-20

scroll down a bit and you will see a beautiful riveting for the MFH ferrari 312 , the same era of the eagle.

Edited by sharknose156

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Wow - that's bloody brilliant Sharknose. Thanks for that. In fact I was just looking at the body of the Eagle and thinking, 'Do I really want to do all that?' As I'm sure I could get away with the detail as it is. But looking at that Ferrari... Oh boy.. Ha..

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I use MasterClub 0.5mm flat spherical rivets.  They are resin and you get 180 in a packet for £3.60 at http://www.manmodels.co.uk/masterclub-flat-spherical-rivet-05mm-993-p.asp, which if you are going to do on the tub, you will need loads.  The little buggers ping off the tweezers far too often! 0.4mm hole, so plenty of bits on white metal as well ;) 

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Thanks for the comments everyone. I am again seeking help. This model is nearly all made of white metal. Can anyone suggest the best glue to use? Also do I need a special primer or will Tamiya fine primer do? All comments are welcome and will be much appreciated.

Here are a couple more pics of the Eagle. Hope I can get mine looking as good! :)

 

T1_1_zpsccmx87oy.jpg

 

T1_2_zps6xx8olfq.jpg

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Hi PC,

 

To glue the white metal and resin, I always use CA, but if a bit more structural strength is needed, a 2part epoxy resin will be needed.

However, white metal is easily solderable with low-melt (70dg) solder and a low-wattage iron/adjustable temp iron.... just be very careful!

 

Beautiful subject...Iooking forward to seeing your progress.

 

Cheers, H

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Thanks Harvey, I won't be soldering. I've tried before and I'm hopeless. The only resin parts are the body work. It will mostly be white metal to white metal. I've heard CA is not great at this? 

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CA is peachy!  Just get the surfaces flush and clean to increase the surface area.  I have heard of some that use 2 part with CA mixed into to it to speed up the bond, never tried this personally. 

 

Low melt solder works well on large sections, for example a fuselage half, as long as the faces have had a coat of flux.  Solder is better when the joint is bad, and works well as a filler, as it won't sag.  2 part sometimes does sag a bit over time.

 

Get some good files though.

 

 

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Main engine parts sorted. I've been looking at many of Caterhamnut's WIP's. A great source of information. I'm going to follow his process of sanding the flash and cleaning the parts with a wire brush and a dremel. More soon...

 

parts%201_zpst1cyjarq.jpg

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@PC2012   PC for what it is worth i totally second what Mumbly @Mumbly says word for word.

 

Try the soldering, don't give up on account of previous attempts.

 

This car is too beautiful not to try. Your wife has confidence in your strong abilities ( which says a lot ;)) otherwise she would not have bought you such a car to build.

 

Go for it even if only the 10th attempt is the right one, as someone famous here famously said for our benefit ! his pseudonym starts with the letter C. ;)

 

What a beautiful car representing a beautiful era where American F1 was at the top and won in Belgium. 

 

The fully riveted aluminium tub is part of its characteristics to make it stiffer and faster. So i hope you go for the full riveting.

 

enjoy!

Sam

 

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I'm still unsure about soldering Sharknose. Caterhamnut swears by CA for his builds. I will though be riveting the body. Does anyone know if I can put etch primer through an airbrush?

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If it was me, I would go with CA.  White metal soldering requires a good ultra-low temp iron, a fair amount of practise and something cheaper than an MFH Eagle to be my first attempt at it.  It is also a lot easier to separate a CA join if needed than solder.

 

Zero do 2 part etch and metal/resin primer for the Airbrush.  Never tried it, the etch primer looks like it requires alchemy.  Good luck

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Ha, Thanks Mumbly. I just ordered some of the resin rivets you posted a link for. I'm going to use those on the body and metal ones from MFH on the cockpit tub, because that needs to be polished.

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10 hours ago, sharknose156 said:

 

Go for it even if only the 10th attempt is the right one, as someone famous here famously said for our benefit ! his pseudonym starts with the letter C. ;)

FOR THE RECORD; I do not recommend 10 attempts at anything. Unless it's sex. So maybe you mean another pseudonym.

 

PC, you are in good hands here; plenty of hands-on advice to follow. Just tape those 3 photos up on your wall which are marvelous inspiration. Possibly among the five most beautiful machines ever made.

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That's one immensely beautiful car. 

 

Edit: doesn't sound too bad either (the fun starts at 1:09):

 

 

Edited by Roy vd M.

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@Codger   hahaha, no i don't mean another pseudonym, and thank you for the added recommendation. 

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Thanks everyone... cool film! I've been doing lots of prep work filling, drilling sanding and polishing. I used etch primer from Halfords, it's really easy to work with (and its grey!). So the mail parts of the engine should be going together within the next couple of days. For now I've sprayed and polished the legend that goes on the cylinder head...

 

legend_zpsxokgh9mi.jpg 

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I've done a bit more work on the Eagle. It took me some time to get to this point. Mostly drilling holes and double checking that all the wiring will fit. I polished the white metal and then used a couple of coats intermediate gauzy agent to seal it. I'm going to give the engine some subtle washes, just to add some depth. Then start the wiring. I had to work out the best way to build which differs from the instructions. Still no joy from Profil 24. I'm still waiting the windscreens to turn up for the Maser! .... more soon.

 

eng1_zpsghhajytr.jpg

 

eng3_zpsrumynvxd.jpg

 

eng2_zpsza852onm.jpg

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I've used a very thin wash with various shades of Daler Rowney oils. Literally tinted distilled turpentine. I haven't done the top of the engine because I still have to add all the PE guides for the HT leads.

 

engg1_zpsxnivdzph.jpg

 

 

engg2_zpsgf28j6fm.jpg

 

 

 

 

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What a start to a gorgeous car, the engine blocks looks great.

Not bad for a Christmas pressie!

The Halfords etching primer works a treat, I've been using it for a while now but I think whatever you use it has to be treated with care.

 

Regards

John

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