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1/48 Westland Scout - FINISHED!


Bell209

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Decided to make new side windows from perspex and these are occupying a bit of time but I think they look better. Also made a start on the engine while I wait to join the fuselage halves. I'll put pics up once the halves are together otherwise there's not much to see. 

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As promised, I've redone the windows (which look better than these photos suggest).

 

51970591325_2d037d3c63_b.jpg

 

The instrument panel and its combings are also in location with the rest of the interior.

51970096813_428438a5be_b.jpg

51970318754_84719769e8_b.jpg

 

Also started work on the engine:

51970027721_bd655394b3_b.jpg

 

The stretched sprue offcut turned out to be perfect for the front gearbox.

I51970096798_ed99b08b13_b.jpg

I'll paint it silver (the rest of the engine less the exhaust is already in grey now) and then move on to the turbine which needs work to satisfy my aircraft technician brain...

 

Next job though will be to paint the engine/transmission deck Oxford Blue as I won't be able to add detail before painting it. The deck and its components will be fitted after the main fuselage painting is done so I don't have to mask everything separately. Concurrently, I'll be working on filling the gaping hole in the rear lower fuselage...

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Liking your progress and your perseverance with that horrible hard and brittle Fujimi plastic. I am suffering similarly wth their 1/48 Alouette at the moment.

 

Martian

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53 minutes ago, Martian Hale said:

I am suffering similarly wth their 1/48 Alouette at the moment.

I've got one of those in the stash, too...

Edited by Bell209
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  • 3 weeks later...

I've been making more progress on and off of late. Filled the big holes from cutting out the Wasp gear attachments.

51970591430_e5e6600742_b.jpg
 

51970096963_548c95209a_b.jpg


The exterior obviously still needs to be filled and sanded (my least favourite part of our hobby!).

I realised the Main Gearbox deck wasn't accurately represented:
51970591410_24dc531b14_b.jpg

So I removed the offending lump and added some bits to make it a little more like the real thing.
51970591540_c773b94a41_b.jpg
Again, more filling to come.

The tailboom needed a lot of work and I've made a start, scratchbuilding the new Vertical Fin from plasticard.
51970591465_c4a80c2060_b.jpg


Starting to look more like a Scout now.

51970027891_ee050d835f_b.jpg


The engine is totally exposed in the Scout/Wasp and, although I'd modified it to this:

51969027962_af2f24c3e7_b.jpg


I didn't like the turbine area at all, so I've removed the bits I want to keep...

51969027987_b99c09f701_b.jpg
...and chucked the rest out.

I'll make a new turbine/outlet section to mate these two now that I have my larger punch set.
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Ferry interestink!

 

That engine deck is one of the few bits Airfix got right on their little tiddler, placing the lower trough in to give Nimbus clearance

 

But they made the tail 'fin' too small so I had to enlarge it significantly

 

The tailpipes are OK ish but I wouldnt like the rest of it  :(


Fujimi not on my shopping list tomorrow at Huddy

 

:thumbsup:

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Yeah, it has some good detail and some absolutely shocking areas. Much filler will be required and I think I'll need to add some weight to the nose (something I've never had to do to a helo before) as the new parts are solid and therefore heavier than the injected parts they replace. That'll probably mean a metal undercarriage but I'll deal with that when I get to it. Other areas needing work are the hyd pump area on the starboard MGB deck, the tail rotor and its controls and the main rotor head which, although reasonably accurate in appearance and dimensions is sadly lacking in detail. The engine area and the tail are the next areas to concentrate on. The engine needs a heap of hoses, pipes and controls to be added after I finish with its bones. If only I had more time every day...

Edited by Bell209
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14 hours ago, hendie said:

so this isn't going to be the simple "take the wheels off an put skids on instead" job that I thought I had signed up for then ?

 

 

 

 

Nah, I'm just making it look harder than it is!:D

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6 hours ago, heloman1 said:

Hi guys, wasn't the NAVY canopy tint Blue and the Pongos ones gray? Just asking...

 

Colin

So some have said, however the RAN ones were definitely blue. I'm going to have another go at tinting the canopy with Tamiya clear blue mixed with Future but not just yet...

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On 2/15/2017 at 0:28 AM, Bell209 said:

So some have said, however the RAN ones were definitely blue. I'm going to have another go at tinting the canopy with Tamiya clear blue mixed with Future but not just yet...

I've never tried Tamiya tinted clear mixed with Future. However my prefered application method is, four coats applied through the airbrush. More laborious but a truely better finish. Don't foget to wipe the canopy with surgial spirit first, get the oils off it.

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On ‎11‎/‎02‎/‎2017 at 12:18, hendie said:

so this isn't going to be the simple "take the wheels off an put skids on instead" job that I thought I had signed up for then ?

 

 

 

 

You poor deluded creature! I did the Wasp a few years back and that alone took over six months to get right and that was without the conversion work!

 

Martian

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I decided a few weeks ago to give Milliput a try - O.M.G.!!!! Why have I not used this before?!! Shapes while wet (with a bit of water), rolls thin, responds to a file as well as sanding - filling made easy!

51970318984_0793cc64a6_b.jpg

The new tail came up quite well.
51970318954_19fa70f109_b.jpg



Paid some attention to the engine. Using my new punch sets and some old sprue, I made new diffuser, compressor and turbine sections and separated them with plastic discs to represent the prominent mounting flanges on the Nimbus.

51970027936_23638b7dbd_b.jpg


A quick shot of paint on a few bits to see how it comes up:
51970591670_1017768933_b.jpg


Pretty happy with both. A small hole on the power turbine to exhaust area is evident on the engine and there were a couple of missed bits on the lower fuselage; both are now filled with Milliput and drying. Much more detail needed on the engine and Main Gearbox areas but I need to finish the engine/gearbox deck off first. Might need to change the colour on the diffuser area, too - it doesn't look right being the same colour as the exhaust.
 
I'm very happy with the tail - it just needs a touch up sand and I'll be happy with it. May need to add some external longerons on the fin area where the putty is but I'm not sure yet. More joint sanding tomorrow and then I think I'll make a new horizontal stabiliser.
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Nice work there Bell209.   The tail is particularly nice. I'm not sure whether to go the milliput way or try and use styrene sheet with formers to do the underbelly.  But that's a ways off since I am getting up steam with the train build again, so it may be some time before I get back to the Scout kitbash

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6 hours ago, hendie said:

Nice work there Bell209.   The tail is particularly nice. I'm not sure whether to go the milliput way or try and use styrene sheet with formers to do the underbelly.  

I was hoping the plastic sheets would be enough to fill the gaps with a small amount of filling but there wasn't enough curve in them to match the surrounding area. They made a great base for the Milliput, though and it's basically just a smoothing agent in places as a result.

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On 14/02/2017 at 3:54 PM, heloman1 said:

Hi guys, wasn't the NAVY canopy tint Blue and the Pongos ones gray? Just asking...

 

Colin

My Brother fixed Scouts for 652 Sqn for many years. Used to get annoyed that the Airfix box art showed a green tint when it was actualy black. He was always going to build his "Holy Trinity" of Lynx, Scout and Gazelle, but is still waiting for the "perfect kit".

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  • 1 month later...

Made some more (slow) progress. Just assembled the undercarriage (mostly scratchbuilt with the skid tubes I didn't use from the Fujimi Bell 206 I made into a Kiowa).

51970593645_2f128f788b_b.jpg

You can also see the scratchbuilt Horizontal Stabiliser in the background.

 

When it's dry I'll add some brass strips over the top of the skid clamps to make it look like the tubes go through the clamps, rather than sitting on top as I've done it (it was too hard to get the tiny hole done without bursting out of the top of the clamp!)

 

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