Jump to content

KW T800 with reefer trailer


Recommended Posts

My next project, another commission, is a 1/25 mid 2000s Kenworth T800 with a 2015 Utility 3000R trailer. The company is a local Winnipeg company called D.R.B transport, maintained by Boyko & Sons. They refurbish/restore older pre 2006 Kenworth Aerocabs and a few flat tops, a lot cheaper than new and a lot less problems than the new rigs. They use them for reefer runs from Winnipeg to Calgary, Edmonton and Regina mostly. They also use tri-axle dropdeck platform trailers.  In 2005, I was lucky to go along for two reefer trips to Calgary. The fleet is up to thirty trucks. This one will be #129, at this time, the most recent in use.The trailer is brand new. I built them two truck/trailer models several years ago. The models this time will be the Mobius reefer trailer and the Revell Snap Kw Aerodyne with a modified AMT T600 cab/sleeper and a hood from Plaskit. The engine is a 34oh6 cat, so I can use the snap kit's engine. I'm starting with the trailer. It needs a few mods. I need to make the newest Thermo King Precedent reefer, make new trailer doors with the optional diamond quilted pattern and  make a third axle. The Mobius smooth sided reefer trailer comes with a roll up door and the swing doors. The swing doors are mostly for the reefer option. Mobius also offers wheels sets for the trucks, so you can use the spares for the third axle and whatever else.

The first picture shows a few fit issues with the floor. I lined up the front and layed the floor onto the walls. I had to tweak the last two sets of line up pins and notches. I started at the front because of the round front corners. I realize now I should have glued one wall at a time and glued some extra tabs on the inside where the wall meets the roof and floor. It's easy to push the wall in when picking it up.

Boyko_trailer_WIP_Dec_21_2016_1.jpg

The second shows the floor being a little short under the rear doors.I have to make the rear have three taillights instead of two, so I'll be redoing most of the taillight area and will make it all fit up.

Boyko_trailer_WIP_Dec_21_2016_3.jpg

Here's the doors with the surface details removed. I tried to save some of the details such as the hinges and latches. The long rods will be replaced with new rods. I drew out where the new hinges and door strap type things will go. The doors will end up a bit taller to.

Boyko_trailer_WIP_Dec_21_2016_4.jpg

I couldn't figure out how to make the diamond pattern you see on the photo of the original. I heard of a cookie package with it, but most cookies come in sealed boxes now so I can't see what they look like. I did find at a bakery near me(not many of those anymore) who had a clam shell container made by Reynolds, it has True Vue 0220 N molded on it. I ended up paying $1.50 for one, since they only use them on certain things they make which weren't being made that day. They said they are expensive for them. I need to use two of them because it's not patterned throughout. If the doors didn't have the silver straps across them, I'd have some problems.

Boyko_trailer_WIP_Dec_21_2016_5.jpg

Here I have the doors masked with tape, the tape will become the pattern I will use on the clam shell diamonds. I might put the trailer mostly together first, then paint the dull silver, the white and paint the diamonds last and hope to glue them on last without any problems, just a little paranoid about masking on the diamonds since I don't want to sand them since they will be Alcladed.

Boyko_trailer_WIP_Dec_23_2016.jpg

Here's a picture of the actual truck #129 and the actual trailer. This company has a very recognizable attractive looking fleet.

Aug_26_2016_1.jpg

Aug_26_2016_15.jpg

 

Edited by busnproplinerfan
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, richellis said:

I'm watching this build!

have you thought about rubbing thin kitchen foil over the mesh to give the effect?

That's one thought, just as long as I don't press to hard. I have that foil adhesive to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A bit more done. i have the doors fitted on and test fitting the diamond pattern. I made the lower panel and the small sides at the bottom.

 

Boyko_WIP_Dec_25_2016.jpg

Here's the doors finished. I save as much of the original door parts as I could. I only ended up using the hinges, latch rod guides on the second door brace and the left door latch, everything else is made from rod, small channel and flat strips. The door hinge bolts are stretched sprue put into drilled holes and trimmed. The tailights are from the AMT lenses. The Mobius only had four.

It's hard to see, but along the vertical edge of the door, under the hinges is a thin strip about 0.5mm x 2 mm. I put this on because the diamond pattern plastic wouldn't have a finished edge along the outer sides. Also since this is a reefer trailer, there is a black rubber seal that goes around the doors. I trimmed the diamond pattern  back just a little along the outer edge, this will be painted flat black later on before the diamonds are put on. The top and bottom, I will figure out later.

Boyko_wip_Dec_31_2016_2.jpg

 

Edited by busnproplinerfan
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Boyko_WIP_Jan_6_2017.jpg

Some more done. celebrating with my Gibson's and pepsi in the backround. I debated making the suspension's third axle parts and decided to get another trailer kit. I can use the parts for a single pup or to make another tri axle trailer later on, get a good price at the hobby shop, $68 Cdn after taxes, can't go wrong. This one somehow was a dollar or so cheaper than the first, maybe it's the red head check out girl?. Anyway, you can sort of see where I cut and added the front section of the suspension where it clothes pin is. I cut it exactly where the suspension originally ended at the front. I then added strips on the inner side to fish plate it. Like I said the remaining parts can be used later. The landing gear I had to make. Each trailer company seems to have their own unique shaped side and cross bracing. I'm sure there are trailer nerds and rivet counters out there(nothing wrong with them, I'm a bus nerd). The same for the rear bumper, that had to be scratchbuilt except for the bumper itself. One note, there are no line up marks on the axles where they go into the trailing arms, so test fit before gluing. The trailing arms curve inwards when seen from the bottom.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellant work so far mate. I have built a few trucks in my modelling time and im looking forward to release of the Italeri Mercedes-benz Actros. Ive pulled up a chair for this one and will be following your build all the way. Best of luck mate

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, Graham316 said:

Excellant work so far mate. I have built a few trucks in my modelling time and im looking forward to release of the Italeri Mercedes-benz Actros. Ive pulled up a chair for this one and will be following your build all the way. Best of luck mate

 

20 hours ago, Graham316 said:

Excellant work so far mate. I have built a few trucks in my modelling time and im looking forward to release of the Italeri Mercedes-benz Actros. Ive pulled up a chair for this one and will be following your build all the way. Best of luck mate

The Benzs are neat, I still like the older snub nose 1100-1300 series for some reason. Used to be a few in Winnipeg until the mid '90's, now they are extinct, had a chance to get a 1/25 resin cab, I think out of S.Africa, but passed on it, damn.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, Mancunian airman said:

I do like to see lorries built, this looks like it going to be something special.

I personally love the older lorries of the 1960-70's

 

Good luck with the rest of the build, I shall be looking in.

Ian

Yes, new ones are nice, but all looks the same. I don't thing there's anything you can do to a Peterbilt conventional that hasn't been done to death already as an example. I grew up in the '70's 80's so I remember those, along with all the fun, badly written trucking movies. They had more charactor then, so did the drivers.

Edited by busnproplinerfan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

While we're talking trucks/lorries/big cars,  I need detail photos of the Bandag Bullet and hauler that resides in NZ and or Tasmania, mostly under the bonnet and frame details.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

A bit more done. Not much because I'm getting my build space redesigned into a new Skunkwerks. I had to remove a molded bead near the top(both outlined in pencil). Since the two sides are interchangable there is a bead that has to come off. You end up with a flat space with missing rivets now. So you will likely need the 3D rivet decals. I sanded all from the bead to the roof off. Figure it might be easier than trying to put just two rivets on. Also the roof to the wall seam isn't the greatest now since I had to fill with glue, the roof separating from the wall. There are also existing panel lines that have to have scribing extended to the top. I filled top most roof corners in with a bit of sheet plastic. They had a 45 degree notch on top. I also ground the front of the roof almost flush with the front wall. Since it's a Utility you have to fill all the light holes, they will be moved a bit. A half round plastic strip needs to be added above the lower front. I used 0.5 mm, could've used slightly smaller but I didn't want to go out to the hobby shop to look, I don't know if it comes in a smaller size. The corners are left smooth, these will be chromed up to the roof. 

Boyko_trailer_front_Jan_28_2017_1.jpg

 

The second picture shows the putting I had to do all along the roof. There was a mold line that I couldn't sand out completely.  It's a little hard to see in the picture. It hopefully will be ready for painting after this.

Boyko_trailer_front_Jan_28_2017_2.jpg

Edited by busnproplinerfan
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's the reefer modifying roughed in.

Boyko_trailer_WIP_Feb_1_2017_2.jpg

Silver paint done. I decanted and airbrushed Testors silver.

Boyko_trailer_WIP_Feb_1_2017_1.jpg

Here I added the rivet detail back. I used Micro Mark's O scale rivet 3D decals. Took about three hours to do this. Next time I'll get a proper seam scraper and hopefully remove less rivets. To bad they only come in black, but are very nice to work with. I also painted a good coat of Future wax to seal the filler and give the decals something better to stick to.

Boyko_trailer_WIP_Feb_1_2017_3.jpg

 

Edited by busnproplinerfan
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Boyko_reefer_WIP_Mar_1_2017_1.jpg

Boyko_reefer_WIP_Mar_1_2017_2.jpg

Here's a lot more done to the reefer, finally had some time. The brighter white plastic is all the modifications. I decided to use the original as a base. Luckily it's the same size. I was talking with an aftermarket supplier (KJ Humpreys) and he said he was looking at making a resin one of these but didn't have the time, he has the new Carrier type so far) The grill is a lot of careful bending and trimming.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Have the grill work done now. I cut the grill from a speaker grill. It's not the honeycomb pattern I want but round holes which will have to do. There appears to be a sheet just behind the grill which is why I put the sheet plastic on the back.

Boyko_WIP_reefer_grille_Mar_11_2017_1.jp

Here's the front view, the speaker grill doesn't quite meet up to the "rib cage" grill, but I'm not going to break it trying to make a super tight fit, it will all be black anyway. I also cut out the door handles on the front access panels, added the layers of sheet to create the skin patterns. Just waiting on top view photos but the trailer is in Vancouver right now and internet searches don't show the top.

Boyko_WIP_reefer_grille_Mar_11_2017_2.jp

I just found out the rads are behind the grills, oh well, can't take it apart now to fix it.

Edited by busnproplinerfan
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Quite a bit more done as you will see. I cut off the chrome hub covers and replaced them with trailer hubs from KJ Humpreys. The hubs don't just fit in the holes and will need some fitting. I had to also cut the snap part of the axle off because of the new hubs, also means the wheels have to be glued on. I used white glue in case I ever have to fix them. Make sure to glue the brake drums on before putting on the wheels trim rings. I didn't and had to cut the trim rings to fit over the drums, much like a split rim, you won't see the parts after anyway but I panted them dull silver.

Boyko_WIP_Mar_14_2017.jpg

The reefer is mostly done. I was able to get some photos of the top view of the reefer which is really hard to get, no one photographs that. I made the frame from bits of strips. The fan grill units are photo etch HO 48" dynamic brake fan grills no. 468. They are about 2-3 mm to small in diameter but very close and the closest thing I could find. I made round tube about a 1/4" tall from strip stock. I then made a circular bottom with some slots cut into it, looks like a mag wheel. I did that because I wanted the fans to spin when blown. The fans are a 2 mm rod with a hole drilled into it and a brass rod fitted into that then glued to the bottom of the round circular part. The blades are just small strips. The flat sheet under the fans is mostly to hide the void so you don't see the front trailer wall when looking at the top of the reefer. There's a second sheet just in the center which is curved a bit which is to mimic the fiberglass top cover under the orange hoses in the photo.

Boyko_WIP_Mar_30_2017_1.jpg

This last one shows the mounting for the reefer. These are 2.5 mm square strips cut to fit. I lined up the top one, first then did the bottom and each side one. Lots of checking to make sure it's straight and centered. I found when grinding the paint for gluing, score a line with a knife along the outside edge of the square strips. This way when you grind the paint, if it chips it won't risk damaging the paint where you don't want. The chrome corners are a chrome adhesive that I found at an R/C store. Measure it carefully and cut it first before putting it on.

Boyko_WIP_Apl_4_2017.jpg

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

All done the trailer tonight. I should have updated as I went a bit more. Any questions, just ask. A few little things aren't exact to a Utility but it's close enough. The chrome rectangle and the small round thing on the front are weather proof registration boxes, these are where you put the trailer's paper work inside.

Boyko_trailer_done_May_5_2017_1.jpg

Boyko_trailer_done_May_5_2017_2.jpg

Boyko_trailer_done_May_5_2017_3.jpg

Boyko_trailer_done_May_5_2017_4.jpg

One unique thing with the Utility is the tire rub protection strips. These are under the front and rear of the trailer. I made the tire carrier, there was none in the kit. I used the wheel from the AMT Freightliner, drilled out the mounting holes and the tyre from the snap kit.I painted the wheel with a chrome marker. The tie down is just a black wire running through the wheel to the carrier. You could use necklace chain, but I thought I wouldn't want a new rime wrecked with a chain banging around, so it looks like a chain covered with a black rubber tube.The fifth wheel grease is some grimy black acrylic mixed with a bit of vasoline. It does not dry so be careful handling, but you should be able to wash it, haven't tried yet. I did a light dusting sanding soapstone on coarse sandpaper (the kind Inuit carved statues are made from, seems to work better then pastel chalk and you use so little). There is also the suspension air slider unit where the airlines run to on the suspension. I made that from 0.080 plastic.It mounts to a channel which I made from two angles. Youtube has the best reference on these trailers, just look for ones for sale and they guy walks around the whole thing.

Boyko_trailer_done_May_5_2017_5.jpg

Boyko_trailer_done_May_5_2017_6.jpg

 

 

Edited by busnproplinerfan
  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Moving on to the tractor. Here's an older T600 that became a donor. The roof was roved and replaced and raised. The doors were modified into the "daylight" doors. The door handles will also be replaced by the newer type. The original slamlocks are still available as far as I know. I trimmed the edge of the sleeper doors and put on thin plastic strip, looks alot better than the original but the doors can't open. The driver's side sleeper door is sealed up on most if not all trucks these days, guess they don't want someone waking up and falling onto the highway. I scanned the brochure from the T800 and resized it to 1/25. The cab to sleeper fairings are cut from the original front sleeper wall and curved a bit. Yes the B-52 in the backround is the original Revell kit, it will be a near future restoration and will be posted.

Boyko_T8_wip_May_22_2017.jpg

I just have one hood left which was made by Plaskit in Quebec, he hasn't been making any more casts for some time, he's just trying to get full time work at Home Depot last I heard, good luck. This forced me to try to cast the hood, bumper, front suspension, rad and steering box. Here's the mold box I made up, using Lego and Bric Tec(counter part to Lego and a bit cheaper) I heard of using this because it's reusable and hold the weight of the mold rubber. I found that you can use a newspaper over your bench and cover it with any wide clear tape, then put your mold box onto it and masking tape the the box to the paper so the mold rubber doesn't run out the bottom.

T800_hood_mold_June_3_2017.jpg

Here's the finished first hood, it worked, once in a row, well the second one turned out ok to. The mold rubber is Smooth-On and the resin is Alumiliite with some of their black dye added. I found Alumilite lasts a lot longer in the bottle so you don't have to use it all up right away. It's a bit harder to get and UPS soaked me on import charges since I had to order it from the U.S.

T8_hood_June_6_2017.jpg

Edited by busnproplinerfan
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

On to the cab and sleeper. Unfortunately the pictures before the two parts were joined are to big for the forum. So this is what I have. Lots of figuring to get the length and the lining up done correctly. I cut off the top sides of the sleeper and made new panels. I just outlined the side windows with a second outline to mimic the window frame. I made the new panels 5 mm taller and rescribed the panel line just a bit above the sleeper door, just above the rivet line. I was hoping to paint the back side of the aerodyne windows black but the plastic was to rough so I just painted them satin black for now. I will gloss them up later. I made from 1.5 mm round rod, the window trim and sanded it down to make it a lot more flatter. I also had to make the glass fit more flush. Lots of filling with plastic and putty to make the area where the fairings meet the sleeper and top of the side walls. The fairings on the back of the sleeper also have a scribed line since they are a separate part. They also will have a small extension at the top that curves over a bit. I also filled the door handles in and scribed new ones on the cab doors. The sleeper's slamlocks are being reused, but the tops of the openings has to be improved. I did see that the slamlocks are still an option on the cabs.

Boyko_T8_wip_June_21_2017_1.jpg

 

Boyko_T8_wip_June_21_2017_2.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by busnproplinerfan
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Have quite a bit done, figured I better start posting. Here's the frame with the front cut off and parts of the front cab floor cut away. I cut it back to were the toe board on the floor meets the floor that's molded to the frame. Also I found to avoid spilling the accelerator for super glue, I put just a little in a second bottle. This way if you spill, you're not out all of your accelerator, not cheap this stuff. Also I unscrew the nozzle and just dab it on the glue.

Bokyo_WIP_2017_2.jpg

Here's the front springs and rad mounted. These are my copies of the ones from Plaskit. He's not casting anymore. I'm not sure what truck these came from originally, but measure lots with the axle and hood.

Bokyo_WIP_2017_7.jpg

This one shows the bottom with the cab and hood taped on. I had to add strips to fill the gap between the cab and sleeper. The original interior tub will be used, I just have to cut down the long mounts underneath to sit on the molded floor.

Bokyo_WIP_2017_3.jpg

Here's the hood hinges. I tried to keep them looking close to the originals, some have a tube that goes right across, some are two pieces like this one. The tube is 1.6 mm rod with a hole drilled through and a matching brass rod bent to shape. Took some figuring to make the mounting blocks. The white 1 mm x 1mm strips in the grille opening is there to later hold the grill.

Bokyo_WIP_2017_8.jpg

Here's the front and rear suspension. I made brake backing plates since there are none. I had some brake chambers I casted long ago and mounted. I had to add a 1 mm spacer to the ends of the diffs to help space the wheels/tyres. I'm using Mobius's wheels set and tyres from Double take replicas, which are direct replacements to the Mobius ones with a correct drive tread pattern. I had to place the front axle over the rear wheels to get the correct width spacing. I made the air lines from small electrical wiring.

Boyko_WIP_Aug_16_2017.jpg

I had to lengthen the frame 3/4". I made an extension and fish plated it in. I added small strips to make up the top and bottom of the frame rails. I also added angle to the rest of the frame on top and bottom to give it a channel look. The Revell glue kit would be a lot better donor, even if it is more expensive, but I'm trying this one.

Boyko_WIP_Aug_17_2017.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by busnproplinerfan
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Finally getting around to posting on this truck. Here is the exhaust parts and air cleaner. The pipe is the kit part just lengthened a bit. The mufflers I made from a couple of pieces of tubing. The top stacks are tubing I warmed up and bent carefully. I will cut the ends off after the bending and thin the edges with a round file. The air cleaner is a a 12mm tube with end caps made from sheet. The rubber elbows are ones I casted from the Italeri kits. I later made the connector flanges for the flex pipe connectors from small strips of flat plastic.

Boyko_exhaust_parts_Sept_9_2017.jpg

Here's the cab and hood ready for paint. I decided to mount all the details on first to avoid touching it so much later

(in theory) The upper windows were to damaged to leave clear and tint, so I painted them in.

Boyko_WIP_R4paint_Oct_31_2017.jpg

Here it is painted and decaled. The paint is Humbrol satin black with three to four coats of Future airbrushed on. I screwed up the visor when trying to chrome paint it and had to take it off, strip it and redo it off the cab. The headache rack and tanks are scratchbuilt. The tanks are one inch wood dowel with a lot of filler to smooth it out. Next time I'll use pvc pipe with I found a long piece at a store that sells salvaged home parts.

Boyko_WIP_cab_painted_Nov_9_2017.jpg

Here's the battery box/steps. I had to scratch these since the kit ones are a bit different. The boot brushes are small plastic with a slight depression made. The low spot is filled with super glue and the bristles are cut from a tooth brush. My first attempt became a blob, which is the small one on the left. Try not to use to much glue and trim them down after it dries. Later on I had to shorten them about 2-3 mm to fit by the exhaust, not sure what happened there.

Boyko_WIP_steps_Nov_10_2017.jpg

Here's the interior. The dash is one I made years ago. I recasted it and improved ti and recasted it again. The steering wheel is a 1.6 mm rod with a thick plastic center that I cut to basic shape first. I used super glue and filler to make it resemble the wheel. It's not perfect but usable. The door panels share the story of the dash. The seats are stock snap kit Kw seats with bases made from sheet plastic.

Boyko_WIP_int_Dec_2_2017.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally up to date. All of the gingerbread is done. The visor isn't as chromey as I'd like but still looks like polished aluminum.The mufflers are painted with Spaz stix mirror crhome. it works just like alclad, but I actually like it better. It's meant for RC cars. I used alclad airframe aluminum on most of the rest and a chrome paint marker from Molotow for the fine work. You can't use it on large areas, because the tips is hard and left lines. Maybe if it was still new you could. I wanted to try airbrushing the maker paint, but don't want to wreck the marker. The rear half fenders(ok, mudguards) are made from V-groove sheet. I cut them to the width first, gentilly heated them with a lighter and rolled them are a knife handle, I added the strip underneath to help keep the shape. To get the thin edge look, just bevel the outside edge, keep in mind the beads and file those into shape first. The mounts are 1.6 mm rod with a small hole drilled in and a pin put in, the pins with hold it to the frame. The fuel tank straps are strip styrene #s 106 and 107, that's ).25x3.2 mm and 0.25x 4.0 mm. The larger was pre-painted flat black and the smaller was pre-painted chrome, then carefully put onto made up tank mounts which I forgot to photograph.

Boyko_WIP_Dec_18_2017_1.jpg

I tried to update the original cat engine that came with the snap kit. The kit goes back to about 1982, so the engine is very out of date. I made up some plumbing to resemble the air to air. I blended it into the rad because I have no space for the proper air to air rad that would usually be on the front of the rad. I eyeballed it as best as I could where it connects. The hose connectors and pipes are separate parts. This was to get the different thicknesses. The clamps are painted on and th escrews on th eclamps are just stretched runner. The orange is international orange(air to air) and the blue hoses(rad) are painted humbrol 221 blue. I also made the upper rad pipe new since the kit used a flex hose that was way to small and wouldn't be reliable on a diesel.

Boyko_WIP_Dec_18_2017_2.jpg

I added some firewall detail, to bad it's all black. Basic wiring made from automotive thread, which has a lot of nylon so it's not fuzzy like garment thread, it's also a little thicker. Made the grey plug connectors and washer bottle from chunks of plastic stock. I made a very light blur grey mix to try to replicate the washer fluid. Looks sorta ok up close. I also made the power steering reservoir(coundn't find any spares) and plumbed it to what looks like the pump just ahead of the fuel pump. Added some thread to look like the basic wiring on top of the engine with a couple of ends going to the alternator. You can also see the lower hood support that I had to make earlier. Those had to be cut off and realigned after the cab was glued down. Added shocks to the front and the coolant tank is the AMT doubled and set way back to clear the hood.

 

Edited by busnproplinerfan
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/20/2017 at 5:37 AM, mbdesignart said:

The caps on the Molotow markers are removable so you can decant the liquid into your airbrush, or you can just buy a refill. Plenty of videos on YouTube.

Impressive scratch building and detailing.

Thanks. I didn't know the caps could come off. I guess I should have, I heard of refills.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...