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Lord Ripon 32 feet to 1 inch


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I can see how these could be thought upopular, all that old fashioned pointy, flappy, ropey stuff ,so century before last ;), just about where I feel comfortable, so please keep putting them up Bob, I love looking at them.

Steve.

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There is usually some interest if I put images on forums, but very few models of them are actually built, the cry going up "I could never do that" or "I haven't the time!"      If I display them in public exhibitions (that I stopped doing years ago), they barely get a casual glance because they are so small.      When I take them to the local ship model society that meets once a month, it is just the same.    Maybe one or two out of about 20 members will actaully come over and look closely.        On the other hand, collectors cannot get enough of them.       I recently began showing building progress once again on my website, requesting that no-one tried to stake a claim to them before they were finished.     Sure enough, I began getting e-mails understanding what I was saying, but  expressing a desire to purchase them anyway!       That sort of thing puts pressure on me, even if it is unintended.     Consequently, I suspended work on my latest model several weeks ago, and will no longer be showing building progress when I resume!       These models do not take all that long to build, and sailing ships are far easier than powered ships.     The rigging is all fine wire, just glued on, there are no knots anywhere!

Bob       

   

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It is far easier to rig miniatures with wire than thread.      In fact I believe all of you could do it very easily, but the sticking point is always "I could never do that" before even trying.

Bob

 

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I always look forward to seeing your models being displayed on the forum. 

It is interesting reading your post, and I am wondering whether you feel that there is an over emphasis on warship models or is it the fact that there doesn’t appear to be that much interest in scratch building?

As someone who has recently returned to modelling after a long break I have been surprised to see the changes in variety and quality of kits let alone the aftermarket enhancements. In my mind there is not as much incentive to scratch build any more. That said now I am starting to get my scratch building mojo back and I am open to the challenge of building a nice sailing ship model and I know I will get plenty of inspiration from your fantastic work.

Thank you

Paul

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3 hours ago, ShipbuilderMN said:

It is far easier to rig miniatures with wire than thread.      In fact I believe all of you could do it very easily, but the sticking point is always "I could never do that" before even trying.

Bob

 

 

Bob, I'm interested.  What gauge wire do you use - How do you get it so straight and conversely how do get those gentle "sag" curves?

 

It is sooo effective.  I've been using EZ line or similar to date which as a maritime novice, has been comparatively straight forward

Thanks

Rob

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To someone like me, all warships look very similar, and all being grey doesn't help.    (I know very old ones could be black, or white).     Merchant ships come in all sizes from a few tons up to quarter of a million or more, and most colours you can think of.   I have sailed in black ships, white, yellow, blue, green and lavender!:D     Also loads of different types from small coastal vessels, tramps, cargo ships, cargo liners. passenger liners, cruise ships, ore carriers, bulk carriers, log carriers, tankers, etc.      From my brief naval service, I found it was just a continuous round of exercises and general inconvenience with an underlying (and surpressed) fear that we were sailing into dangerous waters.      I was really glad to get back to normal again.      The adventures to be had in merchant ships were in many ways far greater than sea battles and exercises.    And if you liked danger, there were usually a few "incidents" thrown in from time to time!:o       Also, it was nice to have the wife along, although she didn't appreciate it when we got a battering in a force ten, and had six inches of water slopping about on the cabin deck, despite being up on the boat deck behind the bridge!      So, when I talk about the sea from time to time, she knows what it was like, and knows all my seafaring friends, having sailed with them, and had the opportunity to visit the Canary islands, Ascension, St. Helena, Cape Town and Tristan da Cunha.       Storm ten shown below on an 11,500 ton ship with 15,000 tons of iron ore aboard!:blink:

Bob

Sagamore_shipping_a_green_sea.jpg

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Rob,

I use tinned copper wire blackened with a broad-tipped fibre pen.    Just stretch it slightly with two small pairs of pliers.   That makes it go straight.  Cut it to the required length with a scalpel.     Pick up in centre with small pair of tweezers, dip each end in glue and just place it on the model.   If you need a curved piece, hold it by one end and gently stroke finger and thumb down it.   The greater the pressure, the greater the curve!     Just try it with a bit of fuse wire if you have any ling around.

Bob

 

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31 minutes ago, rich2010 said:

The ship itself is one thing, but your seascapes are the most realistic I've seen!

I'd have to agree with this Bob. This base looks so real and it really sets the model off a treat.

Your model of the Lord Ripon is beautiful. I may start sounding repetitive, but this one is your best yet; until the next one that is:D

Do you have a favourite method of producing the sea element of your bases?

 

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The sea is just polystyrene foam shaped with a small gas torch with the air intake turned down so it is just the strength of a candle flame.   That is covered with crepe paper soaked in white wood glue.   My wife paints the sea using Humbrol enamel!       I have committed all my methods to cyberspace.   For further details, please click my website link  below my signature for full details.     Note.    I am NOT a business, and I just did this to make my methods freely available online!       Here is a FREE download:   http://payhip.com/b/aFVM

Showing how I built the barque East African!

Bob 

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20 hours ago, ShipbuilderMN said:

Rob,

I use tinned copper wire blackened with a broad-tipped fibre pen.    Just stretch it slightly with two small pairs of pliers.   That makes it go straight.  Cut it to the required length with a scalpel.     Pick up in centre with small pair of tweezers, dip each end in glue and just place it on the model.   If you need a curved piece, hold it by one end and gently stroke finger and thumb down it.   The greater the pressure, the greater the curve!     Just try it with a bit of fuse wire if you have any ling around.

Bob

 

When I actually get to that stage on a project of mine I'm planning to use the winding wire from an automotive relay, it's of a very fine diameter, but is also high quality copper, so very ductile and forgiving.

 

Plus if you crack open a relay, there's lot's of it inside.

 

 

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14 hours ago, spruecutter said:

Very impressive - even more so after I spotted the Parker pen. A beautiful piece of work.

 

Regards

 

Richard C

 

His pen isn't that small. Here is his other one the same size -

post-115445-0-45543800-1417111867.jpg

 

Seriously, your modelling skills are amazing, Bob, especially for the scale you are working in! Great work!

 

Dave

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I feel sure that it was simply to move the rails in a couple of feet to allow the shrouds and backstays to be connected to the outside of the iron or steel hull rather that on the inside of the rails or to clumsy projecting channels on the outside of wooden ships!     It was carried on in steamers for a while, but then went out of fashion.

Bob

 

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