Bullbasket Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 As is per usual, I'm a bit late looking at this one. I know this is an old kit a I used to have it many yeas ago when I dabbled in 1.72nd, so I know it's not state of the art. But that said, you appear to be making a good job of this, very impressed so far. The new tracks and sprockets will definitely be an improvement. John. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 10 hours ago, Sgt.Squarehead said: Phil's way seems better. Nah! Mini Crowbar for the win. nice work Phil. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepster Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 Just noticed this thread - now that's what I call modelling! I've had two goes at this kit in the past, in its other boxing with the Wittmann decals. I didn't make any of these amazing improvements that you have described, which is a pity. I do recall that the vinyl tracks were so tight a fit that they would only fit if I moved the back wheel in a tad, so replacing them is good thing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 (edited) I wasn't really happy with the original towing cables I made for it. They were too short and the ferrules were a bit rough and oversized. Some more work with the speaker wire, soldering, bending, more soldering a tweak with pliers and then a bit of a coat with my personal plastic filler mix (yoghurt pot plasticard and Tamiya extra thin) and we arrived here... The originals are the top two. Comparison of the shaped cables on the hull (top one is original, lower one is new) and both replacements. The cable ferrules (the bits behind the loops) will need a bit more plastic filler and then can be sanded to shape to better represent the steel tubes they are in life. Only a short update as the old health issues have returned Phil the cable guy Edited January 10, 2017 by Phil Lewis 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 That's a like for the cool modelling and a for the health nasties. Keep that chin up old pal. jont. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cambridge Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 (edited) for the cable ferrules wouldn't be an easy and convincing solution to simply use some electrical tape? Edited January 11, 2017 by cambridge 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshanks Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 Some great detail work going on here........... Kev 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 On 10/01/2017 at 11:32 PM, The Spadgent said: That's a like for the cool modelling and a for the health nasties. Keep that chin up old pal. jont. Thanks John, health issues seem to be a recurring theme lately On 11/01/2017 at 3:57 AM, cambridge said: for the cable ferrules wouldn't be an easy and convincing solution to simply use some electrical tape? I did consider this but electrical tape would still show up unevenness underneath. Also past experience with adhesive tape, including electrical, demonstrates that the adhesive has a tendency to soften over time and start to seep out. On 11/01/2017 at 4:14 AM, longshanks said: Some great detail work going on here........... Kev Thanks Kev, I've got a little carried away again A bit more detail work. Removed the moulded on blocks that represent the engine bay hatch clasps and cut slots in the mounting blocks ready to take more accurately shaped pieces. I also removed the raised lines that represent the engine bay hinge lines and scribed them in. Carefully using a fresh scalpel blade is shaped these scribed lines to better represent the rounded edges of the hinge lines. Then added the catches from plastic card using the Tamiya kit versions as reference for shape. Also added second piece each side for the engine cover locks Removed moulded tabs representing grab handles on the turret hatches and replaced with wire bent to shape, fitted into drilled holes and fixed with cyano. Also hollowed out the vision port in the top of the turret. I dry fit the hatch covers temporarily as they will be in place whilst painting is done and then opened to take the crew figures. Removed the prominent ejector pin marks on the inside of the rectangular hatch and added a very rough representation of the locking handle. Looks a bit rough but will be cleaned up more later when my eyes have recovered. Thanks for looking in Phil 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 Speaking of getting carried away.. Yes, I have now opened up the commander's vision blocks. They may need a little refining but better than nowt I also thinned the headlamp bracket and added some teeny-tiny triangular braces between the plate and mounting post before attaching to it's locating point between the MG and the driver's vision port. I'm probably going to need to scratch an axe and a mini crow bar to go on the hull too... but later. That's definitely it for tonight Maybe tonight I'll get a night that's not been disturbed by my 'ongoing health issue' Phil the fatigued 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cambridge Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 can't wait to see it painted 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 (edited) Some more progress. Using my cheap Chinese knock off of a Dremel type tool I roughly turned a replacement mg from brass tube. Also added the cable from the headlamp to the chassis entry point and scratched a rough domed electric cable port. Scratched an axe and its bracket from plasticard. and, just for you John, a crowbar Then went a little nuts and scratched a fire extinguisher from sprue, plasticard, stretched sprue and thick aluminium foil. fixed it in place and added a long gun cleaning rod section from brass rod and finally fixed the crowbar and axe into place with brackets fashioned from my plastic filler mix and then trimmed to shape(ish) I do believe we are heading inexorably towards the application of paint. Remaining tasks are the long thin cable on the left hull side (I think that is the one for retracking), brackets for the tow cables and gun cleaning rod sections (both sides of upper hull) and the brackets for the tow cable eyes. Who dares me to try scratching the rear Notek light? That's me done for tonight Scratching Phil Edited January 15, 2017 by Phil Lewis 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 I forgot about the bolt cutters... a bit fiddly but a reasonable approximation. In place on the hull top with the tow cables positioned loosely to ensure the correct(ish) placement of the cutters. There may be more later. Boltcutter Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cambridge Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 wow you really leave nothing to chance. By the way why not using milliput or green stuff instead of plasticard for that kind of details? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 3 hours ago, cambridge said: wow you really leave nothing to chance. By the way why not using milliput or green stuff instead of plasticard for that kind of details? If you'd seen my past attempts at detailing with milliput you'd probably understand my preference My last stick of milliput fossilised years ago. I have now completed the retracking cable (at least I think that's what it is) 3 strands of speaker wire bound with heavy aluminium foil and the eyes are soldered. Only loosely placed in location to demonstrate. Will be painted separately and fixed in place after main painting but before weathering. Time to turn my attention to the main towing cable and cleaning rod mounts. Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 Aaaarrrggghhh. I'm out of likes. But I think I like the axe better than the crowbar, although the CB is pretty cool. Then there are the bolt cutters. too much cool scratch in this build. Nice work Phil. johnny like lack. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cambridge Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 are you planning to rework the idler wheel too? considering the level of detail you're achieving on the rest of the tank and considering you've already changed the sprocket, those idler wheels look a bit out of place 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 39 minutes ago, cambridge said: are you planning to rework the idler wheel too? considering the level of detail you're achieving on the rest of the tank and considering you've already changed the sprocket, those idler wheels look a bit out of place Nope 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted January 16, 2017 Author Share Posted January 16, 2017 Small update. Bit more modelling time tonight. Tow cable and gun cleaning rods now set into brackets. Placed on hull to show position Sorry about the focus on this one, I think the camera liked the far one best Thanks for looking in. I'm looking at the aerial mount now Phil the bracket 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 I have multiples of the MaCo 1/72 German Vehicle Tool Set in my stash too Phil. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badger Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 Really liking what you've done with this kit!!! I have a spare set of etched mesh intake guards for the engine deck that would help hide the lack of depth in the kit vents. I may also have a spare set of Revell idlers to match the sprockets and tracks Sgt.Squarehead sent you if these would be of use? Finally I replace my kit barrels with RB turned metal ones (highly recommended) which are a £ or 2. I could offer a Dragon gun barrel if this could be of use as it is probably more in scale? Pm me if any of this is of interest. Keep up the good work!! Ben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted January 17, 2017 Author Share Posted January 17, 2017 On 15/01/2017 at 10:14 PM, cambridge said: are you planning to rework the idler wheel too? considering the level of detail you're achieving on the rest of the tank and considering you've already changed the sprocket, those idler wheels look a bit out of place I wasn't really planning to do anything with the idlers as the detail, although relatively shallow, would probably pick out ok with a wash and most of it would be hidden under tracks... mud...dust... and I'd probably make a pigs ear of it 6 hours ago, Sgt.Squarehead said: I have multiples of the MaCo 1/72 German Vehicle Tool Set in my stash too Phil. Ah but then I wouldn't have had that wonderful therapeutic session of making them myself, getting it wrong, remaking them, losing bits, breaking more bits... I also found out that superglueing a tow cable to one's finger can enable one to practice problem solving whilst inventing new swear words all at the same time. It's all good for the soul 58 minutes ago, badger said: Really liking what you've done with this kit!!! I have a spare set of etched mesh intake guards for the engine deck that would help hide the lack of depth in the kit vents. I may also have a spare set of Revell idlers to match the sprockets and tracks Sgt.Squarehead sent you if these would be of use? Finally I replace my kit barrels with RB turned metal ones (highly recommended) which are a £ or 2. I could offer a Dragon gun barrel if this could be of use as it is probably more in scale? Pm me if any of this is of interest. Keep up the good work!! Ben Thank you Ben. You must have been reading my mind about the mesh intake guards. I was thinking about that last night and trying to work out what I could use without purchasing a purpose made etch set. I will certainly take you up on that kind offer. Would you say the Revell idlers are a big improvement? If so perhaps I should replace the kit items after all. Thanks all I really appreciate all the encouragement and generosity There will be more later on... or tomorrow Phil 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badger Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Hi Phil Right - I've had a dig in the spares box and can offer a set of Revell idlers which have deeper and sharper definition than the Hasegawa ones. Just found you a set of etch mesh grilles. Have also put in a set of rear mudflaps, an anti-aircraft mg mount and gun and some spare track links for turrethe stowage. Sadly I don't have (or can't find a spare main gun barrel) Will post Monday first class. Hope it will all be of use and looking forward to seeing the results! Kind regards Ben 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 I can do a gun barrel.....The Dragon Panthers & Jagdpanthers have loads. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted January 22, 2017 Author Share Posted January 22, 2017 9 hours ago, badger said: Hi Phil Right - I've had a dig in the spares box and can offer a set of Revell idlers which have deeper and sharper definition than the Hasegawa ones. Just found you a set of etch mesh grilles. Have also put in a set of rear mudflaps, an anti-aircraft mg mount and gun and some spare track links for turrethe stowage. Sadly I don't have (or can't find a spare main gun barrel) Will post Monday first class. Hope it will all be of use and looking forward to seeing the results! Kind regards Ben Thanks Ben I'll hold fire on the Tiger till they arrive, turned my attention back to the Luchs build 6 hours ago, Sgt.Squarehead said: I can do a gun barrel.....The Dragon Panthers & Jagdpanthers have loads. This is turning into an embarrassment of riches here, you guys are so generous. I assume the kit barrel is incorrect and the bit of cleanup and drilling out I did wasn't going to correct a fundamental flaw. Thanks again, I wish there was some way I could reciprocate. Phil the humbled 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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