Phil Lewis Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 (edited) I know I haven't finished the Luchs yet but I picked this wee beastie up at Telford, liked the box art, and parted with very few readies (cheap I tells ya) 'Oooo zimmerit!' I thought..... Suppose I should have checked before jumping to conclusions Sprue shot with holes because... I did a bit No sign of zimmerit So... do I go nuts and manually, yes, by hand, apply scale zimmerit coat to this.. er... very small, big cat. Have to say I've also been eying up the moulded in tools too I wonder if there are better tracks for it Or.. and this is where I could do with some input, should I go strictly OOB to see what I can make of a basic kit with glue and a lick o' paint? Ooooh input! That's one for you Johnny boy Fixit Phil P.S. Why do I never see the spelling mistakes BEFORE I submit the post? Edited December 16, 2016 by Phil Lewis Spelling 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted December 17, 2016 Author Share Posted December 17, 2016 A little more done on the Tiger. Wheels are now on and, after I read the instructions properly, the forward moulded shovel was removed and the relevant holes filled. Also realising that I had to cut off the long wheel shafts (as per the instructions) certainly aided the wheel placement Thanks for looking Phil 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted December 17, 2016 Share Posted December 17, 2016 Coming along nicely. Did someone mention paint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted December 18, 2016 Author Share Posted December 18, 2016 Paint?? paint??? PAINT!!!! Umm.. not yet John, not yet. Well, after the heads up from Sgt Squarehead, I decided to check the vinyl tracks. I decided not to post a picture as nobody should be subjected to such images this close to Christmas. So I shall almost certainly be buying the the aftermarket tracks.. after Christmas. On with the build. The front fenders were what appeared to be 3 scale feet thick so required some thinning.. after thinning the edges.. Some scraping, filing and sanding to get the jack block looking a little better.. still not sure about it, I may cut it off and scratch a replacement. Driver's vision block was a bit ropey so I cleaned it up, deftly wielded the fine razor saw to define the sliding section and reshaped the profile slightly. Also reshaped the deflector in front of it. Close up shows I need to apply a little filler where the sprue attachment didn't cleanly separate. Exhausting. The two circular lumps to the left are supposed to be the relatively thin weather shields attached to the tops of main exhaust pipes with 5 or 6 thin rods. So a bit of work required there then. Thinned the shields by pressing an appropriate diameter scribing circle onto the shield to hold it in place whilst I sanded off the attachment lug and then continued to thin to a better thickness Yes, I know there's no shield here but you can see the hole I used. Stretched sprue sufficed for the spacing rods ( I did 6 because there were 6 moulded heads on the upper surface of the weather shields) and fitted to the hull with the outer covers (appropriately thinned at each end) Oh, and I also removed the moulded in gun cleaning rods and the crowbar. I'll replace then with brass rod and scratch built mounts. Godness! is that the time?!! Night night all Thanks for looking in Phil 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted December 18, 2016 Author Share Posted December 18, 2016 (edited) Progress update. First bash at the Zimmerit coating. Painted on a thin layer of Mr Dissolved Putty a section at a time and let it partially set (5-10mins) Following various references used a flat head screwdriver of the appropriate width (a jewellers screwdriver in this scale) and built up an approximation of the ribbed pattern trying to keep it as straight as possible. Did this over all the vertical surfaces of the main chassis and turret. The result... I'm happy with it, I don't think it's too bad fo a first effort. The jack looks a bit pants, think I'll scratch build one. Thanks for looking in Zimmerit Phil Edited December 18, 2016 by Phil Lewis 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted December 19, 2016 Share Posted December 19, 2016 Brilliant work on the zimmerit Phil, that's just spot on! I can sort you some replacement tracks (Revell L&L or Dragon DS-100 bands) and possibly even a matching sprocket to fit.....Ping me a PM with your address if you need 'em. PS - You can check your sprues against the layout on Henk's site here: http://henk.fox3000.com/Hasegawa.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted December 19, 2016 Author Share Posted December 19, 2016 11 hours ago, Sgt.Squarehead said: Brilliant work on the zimmerit Phil, that's just spot on! I can sort you some replacement tracks (Revell L&L or Dragon DS-100 bands) and possibly even a matching sprocket to fit.....Ping me a PM with your address if you need 'em. PS - You can check your sprues against the layout on Henk's site here: http://henk.fox3000.com/Hasegawa.htm Thank you for the very kind offer. I shall pm you forthwith Whichever ones you can spare would be great, I did a comparison and realised just how bad the drive sprockets really are too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted December 20, 2016 Author Share Posted December 20, 2016 A small(ish) update. Reshaped the front shackle mounts Added some definition to the moulded tools and thinned the oversized straps on the jack block. Scribed in the engine cover, reshaped the hinges adding a scribed hinge line, added grab handles from 0.3mm brass tube and scratched a representation of the cover locks. That's it for tonight. Thanks for looking in. Phil the weary 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted January 1, 2017 Author Share Posted January 1, 2017 Happy new year all. I've managed to scrape a little more time together and constructed 4 replacement towing shackles from 0.6mm brass tube bent to a U shape with short (0.6mm) slices of 1mm brass rod soldered on for the bolt loops. Here are 3 of them before cleanup And after cleanup fitted on to their locating lugs front... And rear Have a great new year everyone Phil 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cambridge Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 you're pulling out some nice details from this kit 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Just caught up with your smashing work on this beast Phil. Love the simmerit and shackles particularly but overall your attentions to detail is great to observe in action. I was up close to their Tiger at Bovington back in the summer after it had been out on a run for Tankfest, all clotted with mud and reeking of fuel. A powerful sight/smell. Lovely work sir! Tony 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 Many thanks for the positive vibes all. You might have noticed that the jack and the starting handle have just been moulded as a flat impression. Not even remotely realistic. A moment of madness lasting about 2 hours found me scratch building this using the Tamiya part as a reference and scaled down. And glued into place along with the starter handle simply made from brass tube bent to shape. That's my eyes stuffed for the night Thanks all for looking Phil the nutter 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cambridge Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 i'm being curious now: why picking such a low detailed kit when you definitely have a great attention to details and there's much better on the market? it's the challenge you like or what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 I was kind of wondering that too, having followed your Luchs build. Tracks & sprockets are packed & ready to go in the post tomorrow, it took me a while to find 'em.....They're from an early production kit, but massively better than Hasegawa's efforts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted January 3, 2017 Author Share Posted January 3, 2017 (edited) 15 hours ago, cambridge said: i'm being curious now: why picking such a low detailed kit when you definitely have a great attention to details and there's much better on the market? it's the challenge you like or what? Ah.. you assume there was any other factor involved in my choice other than subject and price. As it was only about 3 or 4 quid and I'm a sucker for nice box art it was a bit of an impulse buy at Scale Model World Besides, I really do like a bit of a challenge, you only have to look at my Airfix Bf109 G6 build to see that I'm a glutton for punishment. I think I also feel sorry for those unloved kits that others don't want to build 13 hours ago, Sgt.Squarehead said: I was kind of wondering that too, having followed your Luchs build. Tracks & sprockets are packed & ready to go in the post tomorrow, it took me a while to find 'em.....They're from an early production kit, but massively better than Hasegawa's efforts. Thanks Andy, looking forward to them arriving, that'll save me from having to 'fix' the kit sprockets In the meantime I can now have a go at scratching the towing cables and gun cleaning rods (actually I've already got the rods cut from brass tube) There may be an update later if I'm well enough to do some more (had to leave work early due to ongoing health issues ) Cheers Phil the less than chipper Edited January 3, 2017 by Phil Lewis 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted January 3, 2017 Author Share Posted January 3, 2017 On the rear bulkhead between the towing shackles there are 3 circular flat plates. The central one is supposed to have a raised circular central bolt/ rivet/ thingummy. The outer two are supposed to have a flattened conical deflector to protect whatever vital parts lie beneath. Found some sprue of the relevant diameter and set into a drill chuck. Shaped the cone with sanding pads and parted off with a razor saw. Rinsed and repeated Added to the aft bulkhead including the central pip on the middle disk and also drilled out the starting handle port. I shall now take a break and gather my eyes together again. Cheers Phil 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted January 3, 2017 Author Share Posted January 3, 2017 Now with added bolt heads and a towing bracket. Phil 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 An unexpected outing to see 'Rogue One' postponed my postal plans, will be going as soon as they open today.....Sorry about the delay. PS - Great film, the best Star Wars yet, by a mile. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted January 4, 2017 Author Share Posted January 4, 2017 15 hours ago, Sgt.Squarehead said: An unexpected outing to see 'Rogue One' postponed my postal plans, will be going as soon as they open today.....Sorry about the delay. PS - Great film, the best Star Wars yet, by a mile. I have yet to see it. Dodgy tum means I can't plan ahead but hoping to go on the spur of the moment. Thanks in advance for the tracks A bit more progress. Made some towing cables from a few strands of speaker wire twisted tightly together, looped at the ends and fixed with cyano. Used some heavy aluminium foil for the cuffs and dissolved plasticard (in Tamiya Extra Thin) to give an impression of the steel loop inserts. The cuffs are a little overscale... and I think the cables are a little short but I'm sure they'll look ok when paired up with the cleaning rods. That's enough eye boggling for one night. Thanks for looking in. Ropey Phil 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 Looks good to me Phil.....I could have sent you the Revell parts for the cables with the track bits, but TBH I think yours look better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 Looking ace phil, all those details are wicked. I'm right there with you on wrestling old kits into submission although I think I might do a nice fitting one next. Hope you're feeling better. Chin up son. jont. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted January 6, 2017 Author Share Posted January 6, 2017 (edited) It's funny how you can be having a really rubbish day and then something happens to brighten it right up. Such as an eagerly awaited package waiting for me after I got in from the daily drudge Many thanks to you, Andy. Those tracks and sprockets are many orders of magnitude above what was supplied with the kit. Link and length tracks vs vinyl... err... draught excluders?? Lovely stuff, can't wait to get started on it. Now, how on earth am I going to get the old sprockets off without wrecking the front end, hmm....... Phil the sprocket Edited January 6, 2017 by Phil Lewis 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 Good luck Phil. You could use a mini crowbar? jont. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Lewis Posted January 6, 2017 Author Share Posted January 6, 2017 3 minutes ago, The Spadgent said: Good luck Phil. You could use a mini crowbar? jont. Is that where small crows go to hang out? Alternatively I could drill out the centre of the original sprockets to release them cleanly from the axles. Then drill out the axles, find an appropriately sized piece of sprue, drill the ends to take the locating pins on the replacement sprockets, pass it through the front of the chassis and glue in place. You would then get something like this: Which will then enable the sprockets to push fit like this: and this A mahooosive improvement Am I happy? You betcha. I said I couldn't wait didn't I Because they are push fit on there'll be some wiggle room for when I do the Link and Length tracks. Phil the drill 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 Phil's way seems better. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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