Hawker Typhoon Fishplates...

[Courageous]

Hi All, hopefully a quick question.

 

I have a number of 1/72 Hawker Typhoon kits produced by Brengun that have been produced with no 'fishplates', an obvious oversight by Brengun . I know Brengun have tried to negate this error in their PE set but have reservations .

 

Has anybody got this PE set or used it and can tell me if the etch is thick or thin?

Is the PE worth the hassle to overcome Bregun's oversight?

Any suggestions as to how I can produce these 'subtle' plates?

 

Stuart

[Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies]

Masking around the fishplates with Tamiya (or similar) tape cut with a template, before painting in the fishplates with a couple of liberal coats of primer might be your best bet if you don't fancy PE.

 

When the masking is removed you'll be left with a ridge around the primer - it should be just enough relief to give you the desired effect.

[LotusArenco]

Plasticard comes in 5 thou thickness, you could sand it down once shaped and stuck on if you need it thinner.

 

Mart

[ben_m]

I don't think it was an oversight on Brengun's part- they are using that joint line as the line for cutting the tail unit off if you want to use the 'tempest' tail planes, and it would be tricky to save the plate detail if you were doing this.

 

I have done two Typhoons without these plates moulded (Brengun bubbletop and Pavla car-door), and have done both with Tamiya tape, but I don't intend to remove the tape! They look pretty convincing to me. Better, even if I say so myself, than the Airfix ones that get so ill-defined and shallow as they approach the top and bottom seam (due to how the mould is made, for ease of release of the part, I guess). And much, much better than the incredibility proud line of warts around the tail of the Academy kit.

[72modeler]

You might try cutting spare decal stock into small rectangles and attaching them to the kit; once you have them attached, then shoot a coat of primer on them to secure in place and then apply your color coats. I have used this method to make inspection panels and hatches on my 1/72 models that are slightly raised above the surface on the full-sized airplane.

 

Mike

 

Just remembered one that I used to make the fairing  strips that covered the wing attachment on my Fiat G.50bis- auto pin striping tape, which is also thin and easily cut to size. Yep- decals, unless they were thick, would tend to conform to panel lines, especially the transport joint on a Tiffy! my mistake!

Edited December 12, 2016 by 72modeler
added additional information

[Work In Progress]

Or that old stand by, self-adhesive plumber's metal tape. Cut a strip the width of the fishplates, stick it down to a piece of glass, sacrifice a scalpel blade or two trimming out your fishplates. There will still be enough adhesive on the tape for you to lift each one with the tip of the blade and seat it on the model. Buff down lightly with something like a toothbrush handle or plastic coffee stirrer, then a coat of your favourite Johnson's Klear substitute will seal down any edges.

Edited December 12, 2016 by Work In Progress

[ben_m]

The advantage of the Tamika tape to decal film or thin metal foil is that it is happy not being fully conformed to the model, so the vertical seam in particular doesn't show through.

[Courageous]

Thanks guys, some good ideas; plasticard, foil, decals & Tamiya tape.

 

Because the plates are fitted across seams, I think that plasticard would be best as it won't try and conform, followed by tape, foil and decal but I will experiment all options.

 

I think the PE will be fitted to at least one of the variants to show off the interior.

[rossm]

Another reason the fishplates may not be moulded in the kit is because the decal options predate the use of the fishplates. I haven't checked the kit options nor the dates but I'm pretty sure the tail problem occurred in squadron service. You'll need to check your individual aircraft choices before fitting them.

Edited December 14, 2016 by rossm

[Chris Thomas]

3 hours ago, rossm said:

Another reason the fishplates may not be moulded in the kit is because the decal options predate the use of the fishplates. I haven't checked the kit options nor the dates but I'm pretty sure the tail problem occurred in squadron service. You'll need to check your individual aircraft choices before fitting them.

 

Good point Ross.  The mod (no 286) was introduced in Dec 42 and the programme was completed in March 43.  By the time it started 9 squadrons were Typhoon-equipped and several more started the process during the mod period.

 

If someone lets me know the serials in the kits I can list the mod dates for individual aircraft.

CT

[pigsty]

If you're going down the plasticard route, I'd go for yogurt pots.  It's the thinnest polystyrene I know; once you apply glue, it practically merges into the underlying part, and yet won't be pulled into seams unless you absolutely flood it with glue.  The flimsy 6-packs are the best.  I've had a single pot on the go for something like three years, plus it's a great deal cheaper than stock card and you get some yogurt thrown in for free.

[Courageous]

10 hours ago, rossm said:

Another reason the fishplates may not be moulded in the kit is because the decal options predate the use of the fishplates. I haven't checked the kit options nor the dates but I'm pretty sure the tail problem occurred in squadron service. You'll need to check your individual aircraft choices before fitting them.

 

All of Bregun's Typhoon kits use the same main fuselage sprue, so that means no 'fishplates' for any variant. As you say, for early variants, you can model the Typhoon without the plates but they will need to be fitted for later variants.

 

Sean, nice idea about using yogurt pots, I'll take a look at that when the time comes.

[ben_m]

18 minutes ago, Courageous said:

 

All of Bregun's Typhoon kits use the same main fuselage sprue, so that means no 'fishplates' for any variant. As you say, for early variants, you can model the Typhoon without the plates but they will need to be fitted for later variants.

 

The  bubbletop boxings have the same fuselage sprue, the cardoor and Mk. Ia boxings have different shape openings for the cockpit- the early canopy had a more upright windscreen, and also have the under-the-rear-canopy parts for the cardoor, and the solid fairing of the early Ia.

 

Another thing to note/change for early typhoon fuselages it whether the aircraft you are modelling has the side vents (for cockpit carbon monoxide venting), and the relocated gun camera near the the engine/just above the radiator fairing.

[woody37]

Solar trim is a good suggestion. Very thin but should bridge the panel line. It's self adhesive backing makes it very easy to use