Gremlin56 Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Graham Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 Hi Gremlin, Really enjoying your build. I've got this kit as a future project but in the meantime am working on the 1/16 KT using David Parker's book as inspiration. From what I've read in David's book the inner track teeth are certainly shorter to accommodate greater inside diameter of the drive sprocket. As a result I've been trimming each track link down individually, which is quite time consuming. However, the tracks may sit around the drive sprocket without trimming but it would pay to check. Keep up the great work Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackMax12 Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 (edited) I broke down and bought the Jagdtiger today. Then I ruined my right index finger assembling one run of 96 links with 192 little metal pins. Those little pins are tough to push in and I finally resorted to pliers after pushing one into the end of my finger. Ouch... Each of the 48 flat links has at least 3 push out marks on the inside and some have up to 6 and some even have numbers in addition to the push marks. I sanded and sanded and finally decided that some of the push marks will be on top where they can't be seen. The tracks are very stiff and don't flex well at all, not anything like the tracks on the 1/35 Rye Field M1A1 for example. Also once two links are joined you can't get the pins back out, I tried, so I left the last two with the pins only partly seated just in case I have to take a link out. They fit around the sprocket but as Paul says the inside guide teeth going around the sprocket will have to be trimmed just a bit, not the 1.5mm the other person suggested and I'm only doing the ones around the sprocket. This is a big kit, there's lots of push out marks to fill and it just feels funny after all of the 1/35 stuff I've been working on. The track links are about 2" or 50mm wide and the sprocket is huge. Hope you don't mind as I don't want to hijack your thread but I have included a couple of pics of the track/sprocket fit. They will tighten up after the axles and wheels, etc are mounted but I still think I'll massage the guide teeth around the sprockets. Sorry about the "oil level indicator" thing, Lloyd Edited January 28, 2017 by BlackMax12 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin56 Posted January 28, 2017 Author Share Posted January 28, 2017 Thanks Paul, I'll be doing a test this weekend although Lloyd has already confirmed this problem on the basis of his test run. Are you running a blog of your KT build? Be interesting to see it, cheers, Julian Hi Lloyd, Nice to see you took the plunge and bought the JT, thanks for the track research too and I'll bear in mind the threat to my fingers when assembling the tracks Are you going to posting your own blog? Don't worry about the dip-stick remarks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackMax12 Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 Don't know about the build log. I've been posting an awful lot lately so maybe it's time to give others a chance. All I've done so far is assemble both sets of tracks, 96 links per side and build the 18 wheels which is a PITA with 5 parts per wheel. I did trim 7 inner guide teeth as I had mentioned and the tracks now fit the sprocket much better. The guide teeth have a little notch at the top and if you trim them off level, that is get rid of the notch and slightly bevel the side next the sprocket, they don't hang up on the sprocket. Of course you only have to do that on the inner teeth and I only did the ones that actually go around the sprocket. Filling and sanding and filling and sanding the hundreds of push marks on the flat track links took hours and I've only got one side done, still have the 48 links on the other side, shudder, shudder. I did all of the links even though the top side won't be seen when the skirts are installed. I tried this after I had assembled a complete track run and I think it actually works better than trying to hold each individual link while sanding. I used Tamiya's surface primer which is that thick grey stuff like Mr Surfacer and it seems to work ok just putting a dot on each dimple and sanding with a coarse sanding block then going back over it with 320 grit. I had to redo some dimples but not that many. Sure wish they stuck out of the flat surface rather than being recessed or even better if they were absent. What blows my mind is that some of the flat links have numbers about 1/4" high in addition to the push marks, why I wonder??? I normally use Tamiya extra fine liquid cement in the little green bottles but now it looks like I have to buy it by the liter. I noticed this aft that not only are there the liners for the lower hull that the torsion bars pass through but there are also liners for the insides of the upper hull. That's going to take a tremendous amount of glue and the Tamiya thin dries so fast I may have to switch to something like Testors liquid and a larger brush than the one in the bottle, and a mask wouldn't hurt either. The other problem with the Tamiya thin is you don't have a lot of time to position things just right so I guess Testors and some clamps is the smarter idea. There is a tremendous amount of plastic, something like 50 sprues in this kit and about 7 million sprue gates to remove and sand the part, typical Trumpeter and Dragon is even worse. I can see that this is not going to be my week to 10 day normal build but what the heck, it's still fun. One other thing I noticed that the instructions say the gun breech or all of the gun parts inside the fighting compartment are dark green. Surely that's not right, wouldn't an off white be the logical choice? Take care, it's almost 1 AM here so it's snooze time. Lloyd 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackMax12 Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 Drat. I went back and looked at the instructions again and Trumpeter wants the breech dark green and the rest of the gun mounting is what they call "white insignia". Funny how the eyes only see what the mind thinks it sees. Anyway mine will be off white. I'm thinking since I use only Tamiya acrylics that some whitened up Deck Tan, maybe a 50/50 mix will work for the cremeweiss. I don't have access to the MIG line so have to make do. I'll try that and if it looks too weird a little Windex fixes the Tamiya up right quickly. Tamiya flat white will probably look too stark but who knows? That's a long long ways down the road yet though. Now it is for sure snooze time, Lloyd 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin56 Posted January 28, 2017 Author Share Posted January 28, 2017 Andrew Devey's book on the JT indicates that breech-block, mount etc. are all the same color, this profound statement based on a black and white photo taken by the US Army after the war. It is most definitely a light color so I would hazard a guess that it's white or elfenbein/creme weiss. Thats what I will be doing when I get up to that stage. There are though other photos of a restored JT with a very un-German green breech block. I remember the warnings circulating on restored or repainted German armor in museums. This will undoubtedly be another Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin56 Posted January 28, 2017 Author Share Posted January 28, 2017 The Badger Extreme Patriot is back in business with a new needle, nozzle and aircap, time for the 28/1 update. Air-filters fitted to the Maybach, nothing weathered yet, still to come. Issues so far: Tracks:The teeth on the links are a minute, tiny, tiddly piece too big on the inside. You will have to deepen the groove on the sprocket's inboard side or snip of the top of the inner row of teeth where they come into close proximity with the groove on the sprocket. No big deal really, just a pity Trumpeter missed this but hey, about 70 years since the last JT rolled off the production line I think they should be forgiven. The ejector pin circles? well, if you fill the outboard pit no one will notice except IPMS judges and people who are intimate with rivets so why loose sleep on this: Cooling lines to the transmission: This is ugly, I can understand the smaller, thinner lines being made from vinyl to keep them flexible. The big cooler lines should not have been made from vinyl. I solved the problem with CA, tape and harsh language. There are more gentlemanly solutions: see Matt's fantastic KT. I think this is something Trumpeter should have addressed in the JT. Not a show stopper but bloody irritating: Also doing some work with acrylics, oils and Werner and Wolfgang, not a pleasant experiment and at the moment I couldn't say what I hate most: flesh color acrylics or flesh color oils. Time out here for a glass of wine and a rethink........................... 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spookytooth Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 An itchy one with the drive sprocket and the track there Gremlin. The cooling lines look great , so does the mighty Maybach, well what will left to see that is. As for the figure painting, I will leave that to you, I don`t seem to get things right on that score. Simon. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshanks Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 (edited) Maybach looking good............. 3 hours ago, Gremlin56 said: Also doing some work with acrylics, oils and Werner and Wolfgang, not a pleasant experiment and at the moment I couldn't say what I hate most: flesh color acrylics or flesh color oils. That's what you get for mixing them Sorry can't offer any suggestions I only do flesh in oil .... Kev PS Enjoy your wine Edited January 28, 2017 by longshanks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackMax12 Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 Tried some paint mixing with Tamiya acrylics today. Two of the little bottles of Flat White XF-2 mixed with half a bottle of Deck Tan XF-55 gives me an off white that is sort of creamy, neither totally white or even tan anymore so I'll have to give that a try. Also mixed two of the small bottles of Flat Red XF-7 with one of Hull Red XF-9 and arrived at a sort of reddish/brownish primer like color that's probably close enough. I would just go with a rattle can of red primer but I can't spray that in the house as the management says it "stinks like crazy" and she's probably right. I can get away with spraying Tamiya acrylics no problem. Tried to get some Testors liquid cement today and the guy at the LHS says it's no longer sold. I picked up a bottle of Tamiya regular liquid which is quite a bit thicker than the Extra Thin so with a paint brush I'm hoping that works on those huge inside hull liners and some clamps. I'm going with your idea Gremlin and just filling the punch out marks that show on the outside of where the wheels ride on the tracks. That should cut down a few hundred and they won't really show with the wheels in place anyway. There's nothing like a sore finger when it comes to sanding and modelling in general so I may give this a rest for a few days. As I said I'm not moving spare vision blocks, etc, but just going with the interior basically OOTB so I'll spend a day or two re-reading the instructions to see what else I've missed or read wrong. Those latest pictures are spectacular and I agree, why make the hoses in vinyl? BTW what are you using for a camera? Those close ups are fantastic. Lloyd 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin56 Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 Thanks Simon, The sprocket and track isn't a big deal. The Maybach and being visible? I really don't think much more than the air-filters and some tubing will be visible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin56 Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 9 hours ago, longshanks said: Sorry can't offer any suggestions I only do flesh in oil .... I am getting a tiny bit worried about you Kev, sounds like cannibalism is rampant down in the south-west Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin56 Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 Have you tried Mr. Cement S? Best thing since sliced bread and my plastic glue of choice. I use two camera's: a Nikon Coolpix P520 and an Olympus SZ-14. The Olympus has a better macro setting but the Nikon is a better all round camera. Cheers, Julian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshanks Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 3 hours ago, Gremlin56 said: I am getting a tiny bit worried about you Kev, sounds like cannibalism is rampant down in the south-west Don't worry it's OK if you use "Rape Seed Oil" and eat the evidence............ Funny you should prefer the pocket camera. Last photo shoot I did I tried pocket and DSLR better results with pocket. I guess using a dedicated macro lens would be better but one problem was the physical size of the DLSR Kev 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackMax12 Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 (edited) I taped all of the hull parts together just to see what this looks like and I discovered that part M12 the plate with the driver's hatch must be for the King Tiger and part N3 is the right one for the Jagdtiger, I think. Started on the Maybach last night and there's a fair bit of parts to that thing, some of which require a little massaging. The Mr Cement is Gunze isn't it and that line isn't available here. I tried some of the Tamiya Regular thickness cement last night on the engine and it seems to work fine for the larger parts then back to the Tamiya Extra Thin for the small fiddly stuff. Looking thru the instructions did you install the T2, etc hydraulic lines for the transmission before you put the torsion bars in place? Looks like a bugger to feed them under all of the torsion bars and they are that vinyl that acts like wet spaghetti noodles. I'm not ready for that yet but thinking ahead. I also started a WIP so will see how that goes. Lloyd Edited January 29, 2017 by BlackMax12 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin56 Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 On 29-1-2017 at 9:27 AM, longshanks said: Funny you should prefer the pocket camera. Last photo shoot I did I tried pocket and DSLR better results with pocket. I guess using a dedicated macro lens would be better but one problem was the physical size of the DSLR. The Olympus needs a tripod to be able to use full macro, the Nikon which isn't a DSLR camera but what is called a "bridge camera" because its a pocket camera that thinks it's a DSLR , only needs a tripod on full zoom which is pretty hefty in this case, so it's easier to take bog standard pic's . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin56 Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 Hi Lloyd, No I didn't fit the lube lines before the torsion bars and you are right: it was a hellish job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads203 Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 That's looking sweet Julian the detail that is being added to these super kits is amazing. Dan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin56 Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 Thank you Dan, This is still all the easy parts: you won't see them when everything is buttoned up I am still very wary about the fit of the upper hull to the lower hull parts, (paid my dues on that part when building Buttercup), then when that is done I will be taking a very close look at your JT build, tank and crew. Are you on the mend yet after all your medical escapades at the end of last year? Julian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spookytooth Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 You have done a lovely build of those cameras Gremlin.... What scale? I/we use a Canon Powershot SX 320 IS, not bad, one of point and shoot jobs. Does the biz and has a macro function on it. Simon. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin56 Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 1/1 Simon, the big deal was scratch building the laptop in the background The Nikon sounds like your Cannon, point and click on auto setting or go crazy on manual and s***w your photos up big time A question of preference and choice I think really. I have gotten used to these two and enjoy the ready programmed effects they offer. Cheers mate, Julian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshanks Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 I only use my Panasonic DMC-TZ60 pocket rocket for model photography & general use. x30 optical zoom down to macro and I've never had to use a tripod !! The pocket rocket is 110 x 65 x 35 so it slips easily into my pocket Kev 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads203 Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 3 hours ago, Gremlin56 said: Thank you Dan, This is still all the easy parts: you won't see them when everything is buttoned up I am still very wary about the fit of the upper hull to the lower hull parts, (paid my dues on that part when building Buttercup), then when that is done I will be taking a very close look at your JT build, tank and crew. Are you on the mend yet after all your medical escapades at the end of last year? Julian Slowly getting better Julian, it's going to be a while before I'm back at the bench though, very envious of you guys busy building and painting ... note to self "break leg next time " Dan 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin56 Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 A broken leg poses other problems I'm sure. Good to hear you are on the mend however slowly. The bench won't go away, it's you who needs to get back 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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