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Hello again. 

Welcome to todays arts and crafts update.

Going old school on ed's head.

I'm trying to fabricate a panel for the head, where the mesh section is, and in an inspired moment I had a brainwave. 

 

Paper mache!!

 

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I sanded most of the raised framework away, as this isn't present on the filming model. It's still a bit raised up in places, due to dips and hollows in the casting, and I've sanded some of the mesh patern away in places too.

 

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Stretched cling film over the area. This is to prevent the paper mache from sticking to the part.

 

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Chopped some newspaper into various shapes, hoping to make it easier to mould round the compound curves. 

 

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My adhesive of choice is just pva glue diluted with water. Got it to a nice runny consistency. 

 

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Et voila! Worked quite well, so far, plus it was great fun. Brought out my inner child, and reminded me how much we had as kids.

Just got to wait for this to set now, and apply another layer, or maybe two, to build up the strength and thickness a bit.

 

When I'm done, I plan to trim it to the correct shape, then I can stretch some mesh fabric over it. If it all goes to plan, then I should just be able to fix it on at the end of the build.

If it all goes wrong, then it's cost me nothing but a bit of time.

 

Matt

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Sounds like a firm basis for a plan :thumbsup: I'm gonna guess you'll need to abrade away the edges of the sheets to prevent them showing through the mesh though.  If your mesh is flexible and thin enough, you can also fold it under to create a nice smooth terminator. :)

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Thanks chaps, t'was one of my rare and lucid ideas. Just hope it works out,  to stop me looking silly.

Mike, that's exactly what I plan to do. At the moment the paper mache is oversize, and I'm going to trim it to shape when it's done. Going to carefully sand it, and fill as necessary, to get a nice smooth surface, then paint it black. Should stop anything showing up under the fabric. Planning on using speaker grille cloth, as it has a nice tight weave, and a bit of stretch to it. Shouldn't look too overscale either.

 

I might give it a couple of coats of klear, or car lacquer,  should help strengthen it up and not increase the thickness too much. 

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More progress to report. 

Whilst waiting for my paper mache to set, I decided to cut the holes in the waist section, for the hip joints 

 

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Handily the hole is marked with a groove in the waist. I ran a pencil round it to highlight it.

 

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Spent the next half hour with a 1mm drill, chain drilling just inside the pencil mark.

 

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Just a case of running the point of my scalpel round and joining up the holes.

 

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Cleaned up with a bit of whittling and sandpaper. It doesn't matter too much that the holes aren't perfect, as the hip joint will hide them.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Evening chaps. 

Not much done recently, been working like mad.

Finished the paper mache mould for ed's head. It was still a bit floppy and flexible, so I gave it a couple of coats of cheap floor polish. After that dried it stiffened it up, and helps it keep it's shape better.

 

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It's got a wet coat of primer on it here, that's why it's shiny.

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You can see here how thin I've managed to keep it, help prevent making the head look too bulky.

The surface is a bit uneven, but I'm hoping it won't show through the fabric I'm going to try and put over it.

I'm waiting for a new toy to arrive in the post, then I'll attempt to tackle the legs.

 

Matt

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi chaps.

Sorry for the lack of updates, but I've been rather busy. 

Had to wait for my new toy to be delivered! 

 

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A guillotine!  Not a bad bit of kit, for the £12.20 I paid for it, with spare blades.

Needed a couple of modifications though to get it working right.

 

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Used my trusty tamiya scriber to cut a groove for the blade to go into, as before, the blade just came down flat onto the base and wouldn't cut through the material. Also the cutting guide, the red quadrant, had some lumps along the face you butt the material against. Looked like it might have been left from the removal if spare material, from the moulding process. 

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Another little niggle is that there is no side to side movement in the guide. It's great if you only want to cut angles, or strips of one width, but not much else. I had to make a packing piece to get the strip width I wanted. Think I will make a new, adjustable guide in the future. It  produced a nice clean cut with minimal clean up required. A bit of forces is needed to cut through, and the base tends to flex a bit. I think it needs screwing down to a solid surface, and handily,there are two screw holes provided at the front of the base, by the handle hinge.

Overall a good piece of kit. 

 

Right, after all that I can now get on with the build.

I'm using my new toy to cut 8mm wide strips. I want to use these to replace the twisted and distorted rail sections in the upper rear leg sections. 

 

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Here's the setup for cutting the strips. 

I'm laminating 13 strips into a block, to get the required thickness.

 

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This is what I've ended up with, a block of 13 strips, equalling 6.5mm, as I used 20 thou card stock.

 

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here you can see what I'm hoping to achieve. I've got 2 done, only another 6 to do.

 

Sorry for droning on, hopefully the next update will be shorter, and sooner. 

 

Ta ta for now.

 

Matt

Edited by S5 modeller
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2 hours ago, Caerbannog said:

Nice chopper. I build my own one because those available were a tad expensive for me or simply not available. Where did you get yours from?

René

Hi rené

 

I got mine off ebay,  but it came direct from the manufacturer. It's the same price on their website £10.50.

 

http://www.proopsbrothers.com/multi-angle-craft-and-hobby-guillotine-c6035-870-p.asp

 

Matt

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No problem. 

You will need to use the correct site, I think it's the one in the link, as the other site is wholesale only.

Their selection is very good, and they have attractive prices. I presume it's because they are the manufacturer, and there is no middle man to bump up the prices. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello again. 

Can't belive it's been nearly two weeks since I posted. 

I've been beavering away behind the scenes, trying to get stuff done.

I've laminated up 4 blocks now, but I'm struggling to get them square. I would have thought my jigging arrangement would help.

Not sure how to go about them now.

 

I've done a couple of colour tests, to see what I prefer.

 

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This is hycote aluminium over the primer.

 

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This is humbrol metallic silver.

Not sure which I prefer. The aluminium looks more natural, but the humbrol metallic silver has a nice shine to it.

Might use both, for a bit of variation.

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Thanks Hunter. 

Means a lot coming from a man of your skill level. 

The humbrol is from a rattle can, not sure if it's an old formula or not. I do know it has a lovely shine to it.

I'm torn between the two colours.

To be honest, I'm leaning towards the humbrol for all the metallic areas. 

Trouble is I don't want to make it too "toy" like when I'm finished. Maybe a black wash would help out. If only I knew how to do it. Any advice? 

I'm still wrestling with the rails for the upper legs. Can't seem to get all the blocks the same size.  If only I had a miller at home.

 

 

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Evening chaps.

I'm stuck at work at the moment, but managed to find time in my dinnertime to get access to this.....

 

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A nice bridgeport miller. Wish I had this in my man cave!

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Using this nice setup I've managed to mill my 4 blocks square and true. Also milled them all to the same length.

A right time saving bit of kit.

Got enough styrene now to start rebuilding the first upper leg. Just need to work out how to put the slots in them now.

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  • 2 weeks later...

the work you done is astonishing.

i have a same vinyl copy of ED-209 but as i noticed to your too that the lines beneath the fabricate panel of the head the (lets consider it mouth) lines are not too strait and identical on both sides.

am i correct?

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Yes S5 Modeller

i mean this part.

i have no idea how this part will be corrected.

the other parts are strait lines or panels and easy to repair or replaced with evergreen.

i also considered the legs to filled with quick-dry cement because you will need weight at the end of the construction.

 

i will watch your very interesting progress my friend.

thank you a lot :)

 

 

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I know what you mean. The mouth area would be very hard to correct, requiring major surgery. 

To solve the weight imbalance, I filled my lower legs with plaster of paris... 

 

DSC_0500

 

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