Steve_farrier Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 6 hours ago, Blaubar said: Sinsheim Museum will receive it once done. I think that's awesome!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaubar Posted November 17, 2017 Author Share Posted November 17, 2017 Plastic progress olé! There is quite a lot of interior support stuff, which I have prepared recently. It matches the width of the new front, which is important, needs to be sanded and bolts added to it. I ordered 800+, but they were the wrong kind (hex screws, not hex-bolts <- if anyone needs them, let me know! I will post info about them once I got them at hand), Now I need to order yet more and wait again... This is where they would belong, but the old frame is ***- This is how it should be like. Notice that my previous modifications were also partially wrong in shape and design (the parts already painted^^). There are three vertical support plates that are yet missing, each connecting the lower horizontal ones to the "frame ceiling". At the right, no, lower down, not the beer, you can see the vertical support structures. I am not done with all the L-profiles yet, the vertical supports do have them on all 4 sides, not just on 2 as the horizontal ones. Cheers. /Stefan 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_farrier Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 Seriously impressive Stefan! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 1 hour ago, Steve_farrier said: Seriously impressive Stefan! +1 Awesome attention to detail! Kind regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzy Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 Impeccable attention to detail Stefan, 800 hex bolts, wow. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaubar Posted November 18, 2017 Author Share Posted November 18, 2017 On 11/17/2017 at 12:03 PM, Steve_farrier said: Seriously impressive Stefan! On 11/17/2017 at 1:04 PM, PlaStix said: +1 Awesome attention to detail! Kind regards, Stix Prost u2. Still lots to learn. 20 hours ago, Ozzy said: Impeccable attention to detail Stefan, 800 hex bolts, wow. Actually, I need double that, as the back sides need the counter screw(no clue about the correct terminology here)....🙈 Any brand that you'd suggest before I am ordering the correct ones? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzy Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 19 hours ago, Blaubar said: Actually, I need double that, as the back sides need the counter screw(no clue about the correct terminology here)....🙈 Any brand that you'd suggest before I am ordering the correct ones? That is a lot of bolts and screws, Ive not used them myself but just looked on line. and master club do a substantial line in nuts and bolts, you could have a look at those Stefan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaubar Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 13 hours ago, Ozzy said: That is a lot of bolts and screws, Ive not used them myself but just looked on line. and master club do a substantial line in nuts and bolts, you could have a look at those Stefan. I did get the master club ones. But the wrong kind^^ muahaha. I will order new ones tomorrow^^. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soeren Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 This build looks interesting. How do you cut so precise shapes from the styrene? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaubar Posted November 20, 2017 Author Share Posted November 20, 2017 Well, a steel ruler, that's it. I do the drawing on a technical drawing board (for architecture), at least since recently. I simply scribe along the lines and then break the styrene, I never cut it. I use a compass to scribe round parts... There are more professional modellers than me, they are probably having rigs and other awesome things, they will surely add info here or pm you once they read it. I can add some of my tools if you wish later. Day off and mogglin time. /Stefan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaubar Posted November 20, 2017 Author Share Posted November 20, 2017 15 hours ago, Soeren said: This build looks interesting. How do you cut so precise shapes from the styrene? Soeren, find below some pictures and info on the process: The tools and the architecture board with sliding panels on the side, to evenly slide the ruler... Using the above-explained scribing technique, it is quite ok to get this right. Below the new cabin floor parts, at least some of them- Preparation and construction of the new ash pan. At least this is how I am doing all this. There are more rulers and shapes I use, I did not want to spam the photo with too much stuff. Very thin metal rulers are important for the scribing. As I said, there might/will be better ways of doing this, but I feel it is ok like this. Some 3D view fun with the new frame parts: /Stefan 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soeren Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 Thanks, now I have a better idea of how this works. It looks like some special skills needed to get this right. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carius Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 Excellent scratch mate 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 Mastery of scratch building stefan, really like what your doing here Glynn 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaubar Posted November 21, 2017 Author Share Posted November 21, 2017 16 hours ago, Soeren said: Thanks, now I have a better idea of how this works. It looks like some special skills needed to get this right. You are most welcome. No special skills, simply learning by doing and patience (of which I have very little/none as my brother claims), you'll notice in a few weeks you'll be able to do the same stuff. 14 hours ago, Carius said: Excellent scratch mate Thanks man. Glad you seem to approve my stuff. 10 hours ago, Hewy said: Mastery of scratch building stefan, really like what your doing here Glynn Thx Glynn. I am not sure if it will all fit in the end.... I am worried about the cabin and the ashpan ...So many parts...and a bit too complicated. I have already failed once with it... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin56 Posted November 21, 2017 Share Posted November 21, 2017 Really amazing to see those plans you worked out being scratch built Stefan, 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaubar Posted November 22, 2017 Author Share Posted November 22, 2017 (edited) Julian, thanks, but these plans and manuals are still fighting back, I need tougher weapons! I am reading your update thereafter, been a while. The plans include many pages on the ash pan, but there are two different versions, it took me a while to figure this, as I neglected one part at first. We need the "Ho 5" specification, the "Ho 3" labelled ones seem to be the ones for the bar frame. The 1943 film, for which plate frame engines were used, solely shows the "Ho 5" versions, this sucks, as it makes the construction much more difficult as the front and rear do have additional air inlets, which the "Ho 3" versions do not have. However, there are less bent parts and rounded shapes which makes it easier with regards to glueing and shaping them. The BR50 must have used the "Ho 3" and to increase the efficiency of the fire box, more air inlets must have been added and more flat parts used (to free up tooling machinery). Red rectangles show the most visible differences, which make it easy to spot the "Ho 5" (Type 2) version on the black/white pictures. The green rectangles, marking the extra air intake on the upper sides also help. Yellow circles indicate further deviations. [EDIT: My assumption was wrong, the Type 2 ones do show a bar frame on the drawing, so the different shapes have nothing to do with the frame type, but it must have sth to do with the BR50/BR52 changes and modifications, as such very early 52s might have the type one "Ho 3" ash pans while later ones received the "Ho 5" ones maybe.....] After all this technical lala...at least some plastic: Not much, but prepared the trap doors for the lower ash pan and added the supporting angles covering the front and rear air intake mesh screens. Next step, I will fill in the gaps, cut, file and sand the parts correctly into shape and get them to look nicely. Part 12.2 has too wide cutouts, so I need to do that one again, while 12.1 is just fine. /Stefan Edited November 22, 2017 by Blaubar 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted November 22, 2017 Share Posted November 22, 2017 Hi Stefan. Got to agree with the others - you are definitely demonstrating very impressive scratch building skills! Kind regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaubar Posted November 23, 2017 Author Share Posted November 23, 2017 Stix, so much stuff I learned from people on the forum here... Without the internet and smart folks here, this would not be possible. And Ron Lebert from Canada, a wise man and exceptional modeller. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaubar Posted November 28, 2017 Author Share Posted November 28, 2017 Good day all together, The frame is starting to have almost all parts ready to be bolted. Some 15 more are missing, then I will need to take some parts off the old one and I can assemble it. The newest member is the partially finished coupling support block, this is where ONE steel bar (there were two safety ones on the BR50, but to save weight no safety measures were included with the BR52 design and they were omitted) will connect the tender to the engine and the whole weight of the train will be pulled and held by this one bolt (we are talking about 1,200tons being pulled at 65km/h)!!! The one centre hole will hold the steel rod with a massive bolt, the two other holes were the ones for the safety ones... they will simply. be left empty. It will receive a 3D texture and thickness of up to 4mm with Milliput. Trying to finish it today as we received so much snow, our business is shut today, happy modelling. Have a good day. /Stefan 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 On 23/11/2017 at 20:14, Blaubar said: Stix, so much stuff I learned from people on the forum here... Without the internet and smart folks here, this would not be possible. And Ron Lebert from Canada, a wise man and exceptional modeller. I know exactly what you mean. This really is an awesome forum for learning new techniques - I have learnt stuff I never would have dreamt of being able to do - doesn't mean I can do it as well as the people I have learnt off, but at least I can attempt things with a bit more confidence. It looks like you are still making excellent progress too on this fascinating project. Kind regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin56 Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 You make it look very easy Stefan, makes me come out in spots just thinking about trying this kind of job 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaubar Posted November 29, 2017 Author Share Posted November 29, 2017 23 hours ago, PlaStix said: I know exactly what you mean. This really is an awesome forum for learning new techniques - I have learnt stuff I never would have dreamt of being able to do - doesn't mean I can do it as well as the people I have learnt off, but at least I can attempt things with a bit more confidence. It looks like you are still making excellent progress too on this fascinating project. Kind regards, Stix So true. Does not matter if we reach the skills of our role models, but the fun in our hobby is what counts! 20 hours ago, Gremlin56 said: You make it look very easy Stefan, makes me come out in spots just thinking about trying this kind of job It's nothing fancy so far. These round shapes are a pain, however. I need to build or buy a rig for future stuff. You can laugh your bottom off, once I start painting^^. The whole cabin parts got warped... (Do they often warp (once taken from the sprue and being left for 8 months...)? I need to redo them all I think, I cannot get them in the right shape again, even once heating them, as I had tried it last night... They are warped convexly by 26 degrees, with massive pressure. Any suggestions or ideas? /Stefan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin56 Posted December 3, 2017 Share Posted December 3, 2017 You could try lining it all up again in some sort of jig, (lolly sticks and elastic bands can work reasonably well) and then hitting it with a hairdryer, risky though, I have melted and ruined more parts than that I have saved in this fashion. Certainly not for the faint hearted. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaubar Posted December 3, 2017 Author Share Posted December 3, 2017 2 hours ago, Gremlin56 said: You could try lining it all up again in some sort of jig, (lolly sticks and elastic bands can work reasonably well) and then hitting it with a hairdryer, risky though, I have melted and ruined more parts than that I have saved in this fashion. Certainly not for the faint hearted. Will give it a try. If it melts, no harm done as the parts are useless as of now... Thanks for the interesting suggestion. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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