Spookytooth Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 Fine work with the washes John. As Martian said, silly idea to do those belts with any hangover.. Simon. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squibby Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 Aw man, disappointed you didn't attempt the belts but I can't blame you. They look pretty fiddly Weathering in the cockpit looks real nice though. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted December 4, 2016 Author Share Posted December 4, 2016 (edited) Quick question to the BM collective hive mind. Im planning on cutting off the line of plastic at the top of the cowl by the exhausts. I'm going to add the maintenance flap from the top cowl and hopefully have a hinge. is it an important part that I'm removing. I've checked my ref and I'm pretty sure it's an Airfix addition to glue the top cowl on. but I'm guessing you guys would know best. So cutty or no cutty. heres the pics. I can't quite see what that slot is for either but that's the bit that's going. Thanks for your help brothers. johnny saw Happy. Edited September 7, 2017 by The Spadgent 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexN Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 It's an Airfix addition to allow you to take the cowling off and put it back on. (cf. the retractable undercarriabe and opening canopy - the oil cooler under the engine has a movable flap too, from memory). Weathering looking great. I always used the contents of my brush cleaning jar for weathering fluids - maybe I should update my technique (and spend even more money...). Cheers, Alex. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted December 4, 2016 Author Share Posted December 4, 2016 30 minutes ago, AlexN said: It's an Airfix addition to allow you to take the cowlin off and put it back on. (cf. the retractable undercarriabe and opening canopy - the oil cooler under the endgine has a movable flap too, from memory). Weathering looking great. I always used the contents of my brush cleaning jar for weathering fluids - maybe I should update my technique (and spend even more money...). Cheers, Alex. Thanks Alex. I need to add something to fix the lack of exhaust on the inside too. I'll add that while removing that odd strip. deffo go and get yourself some Flory washes. I'm totally smitten with them. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexN Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 Thank you for the advice, Johnny - I have the page bookmarked already, and am waiting to flog some armour kits. I'll look forward to seeing what you do with the exhausts - and shamelessly copy you . I have finally uploaded a collection of snaps of the light blue original(?) kit to Flickr - how many would you like? In my typically manner, I have taken lots. I think I'll post some of the better snaps (having real trouble with inmge quailty since the Plastic Modelling Environment move, on account of low light levels - and the flash burns out the images summink shockin'), and provide a link to the rest. Cheers, Alex. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted December 4, 2016 Author Share Posted December 4, 2016 7 minutes ago, AlexN said: Thank you for the advice, Johnny - I have the page bookmarked already, and am waiting to flog some armour kits. I'll look forward to seeing what you do with the exhausts - and shamelessly copy you . I have finally uploaded a collection of snaps of the light blue original(?) kit to Flickr - how many would you like? In my typically manner, I have taken lots. I think I'll post some of the better snaps (having real trouble with inmge quailty since the Plastic Modelling Environment move, on account of low light levels - and the flash burns out the images summink shockin'), and provide a link to the rest. Cheers, Alex. I know what you're like with pics. post the link, I do like a good rifle through old photos. I'll binge look. Looking forward to to seeing the old bird in it's blue glory. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexN Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 The slot on the inside is for the motor mounting plate, for the situation where one choses the option of not building the engine and glued the cowling in place. There was also the option of building the motor into the engine or not: I chose the 'with-motor' option from memory. I was a 13-year-old obsessed with the Battle of Britain, after all. The link to the light-blue snaps is here (my 1/24 BF 109 E flickr album). Knock yerself out . Actually, hold yer 'orses, summat are gone wrong wiv it. Some tinkering to do: will let you know when sorted! OK, fixed - for some werid reason, the album was populated with snaps from the Seafire and Concorde albums, and none of the new 'BF 109 E' album upload. Must've been user error . Now yer can knock yerself out . Cheers, Alex. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted December 4, 2016 Author Share Posted December 4, 2016 8 minutes ago, AlexN said: The slot on the inside is for the motor mounting plate, for the situation where one chose the option of not building the engine and glued the cowling in place. There was also the option of building the motor into into the engine or not: I chose the 'with-motor' option from memory. I was a 13-year-old obsessed with the Battle of Britain, after all. The link to the light-blue snaps is here (my 1/24 BF 109 E flickr album). Knock yerself out . Actually, hold yer 'orses, summat are gone wrong wiv it. Some tinkering to do: will let you know when sorted! Ace! I'll have a proper gander tomoz. I needs me sleep. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howlindawg Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 The cockpit is coming up very nicely John - it should look great with all those extra details. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted December 5, 2016 Author Share Posted December 5, 2016 Thanks Alex for the snaps of the old kit. It looks just as crisp as my one just a different colour. It's so odd seeing all the bits I'm working on back in their original form. There's something quite lovely about licking these old kits into shape. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 11 minutes ago, The Spadgent said: There's something quite lovely about licking these old kits into shape. Don't be disgusting Darling! Martian 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexN Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 No worries, Johnny. I have to say that I was rather surprised myself when I had a closer look at the light-blue: my memory had been playng tricks on me. It was lovely to catch up with the old girl again. As is following your thread, only more so :). Fantastic work! Cheers, Alex and pet 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 (edited) Hello you lot. Pre Modelling night post. I managed to snatch an hour or so last night and to be frank whish that I hadn't. it started with cutting off this bit. then drilling these bits to hollow out the exhausts. wider. Then this thing. something is just not right. I seem to have done all the right stuff but the exhausts just look a bit bobbins. So I cut or at least tried to cut em square ish with a blade and sand em back. it all looks wobbly and shonky. Not happy at all. I Mr Surfaced too, but no good. I even took one side into work to use a friends 3mm file, square profile but still a bit cack. I looked back at a pic while posting this and wondered why I started drilling in the first place.. never mind, I have a plan. And hopefully it's as hot as my pants. Either tonight of tomoz for an update. wish me luck. thanks for popping in for a quick cuppa. Happy Modelling people. Johnny on a mission, Edited September 7, 2017 by The Spadgent 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spookytooth Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 Good luck there John. Simon. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squibby Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 Bugger it looks like you nicked the sides with the dremel tool. I'm wary of using those since they tend to be hard to control. My approach to fix this would have been to keep attacking those openings with a small square file until you get them as square as possible, then look to repair the damage to the sides, maybe using some filler of some sort? You could potentially try scratch building a replacement? seems like a relatively simple shape. It's just removing it that may be the problem. I'll wait and see how you tackle this. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexN Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 (edited) What do the real things look like? I don't remember seeing photos of them from the rear. I have some 1/32 MDC resin exhausts for the 109 F/K (according to my 'database'), so I'll dig 'em out and have a look since with my new setup they are really close to the surface. Not for an 'Emil', but a guide, perhaps. Edit: totally different, sadly. Welded 'pipes' with a very slight outwards flare (not really a fishtail). I feel your frustration! Cheers, Alex. Edited December 6, 2016 by AlexN Checked the MDC box 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexN Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 @Julien to the rescue! In BM's Walkaround Section: Photo © Julien/Britmodeller Photo © Julien/Britmodeller Photo © Julien/Britmodeller Photo © Julien/Britmodeller I can't guarantee that these are the correct stubs, but... This aircraft, photographed at RAF Hendon, was apparently used in the Battle of Britain film - in its Spanish-built Merlin form that has been 'restored' to original 'Emil' status? Again, my memory doesn't recall 'proper' 'E-s' in that film. I hope that that helps a bit at any rate. The ejectors are definitely pipes, though, and flared, although slightly - so a lot more work for you if you want to replicate the above . _ing Safari is driving me around the twist. This is the third fourth edit Cheers, Alex. <-- not a Bf 109 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted December 7, 2016 Author Share Posted December 7, 2016 (edited) Thanks for the encouragement guys, and extra thanks to Alex for your source material. what would I do without you lot. First of after trying to salvage the plastic mess I decided that it would be better to strip back. So out came Dexter and out with the bad wood. a shed load of filing and a little Mr S and we're here. (Both sides) better. Now my plan begins with a trip to the auxiliary man cave. ( The Cellar ) judging by Alex's ref and a lot of other pics the exhausts are quite square. I have seen some oval ones too, these are the ones I'm going to try and replicate as I only have cylindrical rod. So measured I and cut the first six pipes. then squished to shape. Glued to make the stub stack shape, I can add the engine curves later if need be but I think with everything in place it'll work just fine. In place and with the straight top and bottoms I think I might just get away with it. The Doc seems quite happy too. what do you guys think? I can buy some square rod and fit it in the same way but I think this works well. Seems a shame to paint em. Any hoo I'm ruddy pooped after all that. The other side is done too and they are double glued and drying as I type. Im a lot happier than I was last night that's for sure. right bed. Zzzzzzzzzz Thanks for the help. Happy Modelling. Johnny vice. Edited September 7, 2017 by The Spadgent 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 That is a recovery of distinction - real finesse. Bravo! I've learned from experience/swearing with rotary tools to clamp the tool off in a vice first, and then control the grind/bore/cut by moving the plastic around it - that way the heaviest/clumsiest side of the equation is fixed and you can be much more mobile and precise with orientating the lighter part, lighter pressure etc. Basically the tool is static, whilst the part you're affecting gets moved, if that makes sense? Either way, top stuff John! Tony 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted December 7, 2016 Author Share Posted December 7, 2016 (edited) 1 hour ago, TheBaron said: That is a recovery of distinction - real finesse. Bravo! I've learned from experience/swearing with rotary tools to clamp the tool off in a vice first, and then control the grind/bore/cut by moving the plastic around it - that way the heaviest/clumsiest side of the equation is fixed and you can be much more mobile and precise with orientating the lighter part, lighter pressure etc. Basically the tool is static, whilst the part you're affecting gets moved, if that makes sense? Either way, top stuff John! Tony Thanks for the tip Tony. the dremel thing has a light pen type nib that I used. Quite good for detailed work. I'm not sure if it was the tool or the operator. Im guessing the latter. personally I think by cutting out the holes in the original plastic opened up the fact that the other exhaust walls weren't there, breaking the illusion and becoming fins rather than pipes. Im 95% happy with what I have. There seems to be a slight bow in the top line but glue and little bit more sanding and I should be good to go. Johnny file back Edited December 7, 2016 by The Spadgent 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nomis61 Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 Excellent recovery. Like dropping a sitter and then catching a blinder next ball! S 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 A good idea about the exhausts and it does look better. However, I believe Albion Alloys do square section tubing and this would make a massive difference. Go for it says I! Martian 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spookytooth Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 Great save John. Those pipes look better than the moulded ones. And they are bound to get bashed around a bit. So any imperfections add to it. Simon. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexN Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 Looking excellent! . The trouble with the 'square' stubs is that while they are square in cross section, they taper. I think that your pipe method neatly sidesteps that. And you can still replicate the weld seam, present on the 'tubular' ejectors (according to MDC) as well as the 'square' ones, maybe some milliput, or stretched runner puddled on with Tamiya Extra Thin or something. I'm sure that you'll think of something eminently suitable. Unless you want to leave them clean, of course. My 1p worth. I'll take a snap or two of the MDC stubs, but that won't be until tomorrow arvo, buzzing about the countryside in the morning. Cheers, Alex. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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