Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 Very nice weathering on clothes, Hannes, and very funny! My step 23 is now over, I placed 18B both sides, the screw heads were filled with resin and painted satin black. The nuts/ bolts on the top of the leaf springs did not fall in the hole of 18B, I removed them by grinding and made new ones with hexagonal 2 mm die and 0,6 mm tin foil, well centered, and added bolts made with 1,2 mm Punch and die. I will leave them metal. And I added nuts and bolts at the ends of my front rod, using the same dies, but with thick plastic card (1,5 mm thick): Furthermore, I have applied X22 gloss acrylic varnish (thinned X20A) on the suit of my driver in order to use the wash technique on it with an enamel wash. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 (edited) Dear Olivier , very nice and convincing ! Regarding the caps 136 D : Maybe you should remove the pins of the struts below and place bolt´s heads in the center of the caps instead . I´m currently about to alter the parts 5-8 A and it´s possible to use the kit´s parts as foundation for these measures . I guess it will be done in 1-2 days so I could show some pics and a scetch . Many greetings ! Hannes Edited June 13, 2017 by Hannes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 On 6/12/2017 at 2:19 PM, Hannes said: Oliver Strebel-Ritter in Twickenham please ? . Dear Hannes do you have any contact no. for this person ? i'll do it gladly but what was the intended purpose again please ? kind regards. Sam 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 Dear Sam , some weeks ago you wanted to know who made the master model in the Centro Storico . My suggestion was it could have been built by Michele Conti , a famous modeler from Torino in the 60´s . Oliver Strebel - Ritter wrote a book about the Conti family together with Peter Wallmann . He possibly could know if Michele built this model . Because the master model was constructed according drawing 1 imho he also could know about the origin of this plan . Oliver is Swiss origin , president of model collectors and an auctioneer , that´s why I suggested you could contact him and I also showed his phone number . You agreed to do so when back in Europe. Many greetings ! Hannes 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 Phew , finally found the contact no. It´s on page 119 of this thread . Good luck , Sam ! Hannes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 On Sam suggestion, I have tried to give more relief to my driver's suit, using the wash technique applied gently with Grey Panel Line Tamiya. Buttons, folds, sewings are more emphasized: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 (edited) Dear Olivier , your driver´s right arm still needs a bit of work imho . The edges are too sharp and the upper arm does not show the right shape in my opinion . The easiest way to manage this problem : Let a friend of yours wear a similar jacket , measure and take pictures to achieve a convincing result . This would be a great improvement because the rest of the figure looks very good ! Many greetings ! Hannes Edited June 14, 2017 by Hannes 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 (edited) Dear Hannes, your suggestion is very good, I had thought the same (asking my son, fe, to wear nearly the same kind of suit). I'll follow that hint, thanks, and thanks for your encouragements! All the best Olivier P.S: in fact, I had done that on myself a certain time ago, but the suit was not adapted (too thin, it was a disposable painting overall, and doing photos of myself was uneasy...) Edited June 14, 2017 by Olivier de St Raph 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 (edited) This comparison shows Hannes is right, the folds are not good on my right arm's figure. Folds are missing in the antecubital fossa, and the ones on the arm are not logical. I will try to improve that. Very good hint, definitely! P.S: I made several photos in different angles, but I post only one because I know very few readers (maybe no one) will represent P. Bordino... Edited June 14, 2017 by Olivier de St Raph 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Dear Hannes, you are the sculptor, I should send you my driver! It would require a lot of care, for the packaging. But I know you have a lot of work with your own build, that's why I will try to get a good result by myself, with your sculptor ´s eyes and hints... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 (edited) Dear Olivier , even for a sculptor it´s not an easy task , especially in this scale ! A figure with complicated shaped clothes often gets formed naked first , real clothes are draped after that and get soaked with liquid plaster .After the plaster is firm ,the sculptor just improves the form. This figure now is ready for a transforming in stone , bronce or - miniaturized - in plastic . Maybe you could use a small puppet´s or figure´s arm, and a small sleeve , ,soak with plaster water , make a silicon mould and cast with resin .If you use resin instead of plaster , no casting is necessary anymore , but it´s harder to make improvements . . I´m sure you have the right materials in your cabinet ! If you want to use your figure´s arm by filing it down , it´s important to get the right ratio first and the correct location of the elbow . The easiest way would be if you buy another driver´s figure in 1 : 12 with a similar angle of the arm and use it´s arm instead .If you cast it´s arm , you will have another complete driver´s figure ! ( Earnest Eldrige for the Mef for instance ) Many greetings ! Hannes Edited June 14, 2017 by Hannes 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Indeed Hannes, not an easy task... the most difficult is to get a folded tissue aspect with a hard resin. But I am improving it. I should post a pic soon. The result should be acceptable, much better anyway than what it was. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 On 13/06/2017 at 6:16 PM, Hannes said: Dear Olivier , very nice and convincing ! Regarding the caps 136 D : Maybe you should remove the pins of the struts below and place bolt´s heads in the center of the caps instead . Dear Hannes, I come back on a previous post, where you made me this suggestion. I suppose you mean the tip of 137D, that goes in the hole of 136D. If so, on Drawing 2 (top view), it appears like a tip more than like a bolt. Look and tell me what you think. Kind regards Olivier 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Dear Olivier thats going into the right direction on Bordino, lots of work to get the realism and coloring ! what a challenge... why don't you try to use real cloth for the racing suit ? from toy dolls or ask your dear wife to help ? simple white cloth will do. Otherwise i would follow Hannes wise counsel greetings to all 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Dear Sam, among the many thoughts I had about this figure, there was the one you suggest: using real tissue. It is probably a good idea, but not so simple. Should I use it only for the arms? I suppose so, because the rest of the suit is OK imho, and representing the pockets with this cloth would be another challenge. But if I use a tissue for arms only, won't there be a difference of aspect between arms and the rest? Well, I think I will try to avoid that solution, except if I can't get a quite convincing result with resin. As I said above, I made improvements on this right arm, based on the photos I made of my son, and I have applied a gloss varnish - not yet dry - to apply my weathering wash tomorrow. We shall see, I hope it will be acceptable like that... Thank you anyway, and best regards to you 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 (edited) Dear Olivier ,we can see central bolts on similar constructions of other contemporary cars. Sometimes there are smaller bolts around this central bolt. It seems to be an usual construction of that time . However , this pin is an Protar invention imho and the whole fixation of part 137 D on the cap does not convince me .A better solution for that strut can be seen on the master model imho. The cap itself seems to be oversized too and the two parts 32 B and 33 B too long imho.. Top-view of drawing 2 also shows no caps and the suspension parts for the leaf springs end shortly after the leaf spring . That´s important , because the steering rod16 B needs this space if it´s in it´s correct horizontal situation .. I would remove the caps , shorten the two parts 32 B and 33 B and create a new fixation for parts 137 D. Finally this central bolt should get added imho Many greetings ! Hannes Edited June 14, 2017 by Hannes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 (edited) Dear Hannes, I made an enlargement of that area on the model exposed at Centro Storico (even if some aspects are good, most of them are so wrong that I can't call it a "master model", sorry...). Indeed, on this build, the construction is a bit different compared with the kit. But there is a cap (136D) and 137D is not so different, except at the 2 bottoms. But there is a contradiction between this construction and Drawing 2, as I said previously, the Drawing showing a button that does not exist in the Centro Storico build, as you have instead an hinge... Furthermore, I am working now on the step 25 and I am not sure of the part 138D, with this little hole in which is supposed to come the spring. On the Mef, we can see this construction: Edited June 15, 2017 by Olivier de St Raph 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 (edited) Dear Olivier , I guess there have been caps for our car as we can see on photo 21 . The solution for the successor appears to be a different one because no parts 137 D seem to exist anymore . Drawing 1 shows caps but in reality they are smaller imho and situated directly at the leaf springs. You will need every tenth of a mm at the right side due the steering rod The Protar solution with a slanted rod 16 B over these parts is not correct ! Many greetings ! Hannes Edited June 14, 2017 by Hannes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 (edited) As I said above, I made improvements of my figure: - the right arm is better, with much more natural folds - I have added seams on the driver's shoulder, for more relief and realism - I have scratchmade shoe laces with 0,3 mm tin wire, and painted them with a mix of desert yellow and white Vallejo Furthermore, I have finally replaced my gearbox lever, and, as Robin suggested, painted the gearbox metal instead of leather (Super Metallic Chrome Silver) and applied a light coat of True Metal Copper on the Vallejo flesh base of my magnetos, giving them a more metal look. Well, a good sculptor and a good specialist of figures would have done better with this figure, but I consider it is an acceptable result. Just to show the work done, I post again the initial Lawrence figure, that was not a bad choice imho to get a base on which I could work. I know some of you were very septical about this challenge, I hope they will like - or at least not dislike too much ) the result. Thanks to Sam and Hannes for their comments and hints that helped me to improve my work. Edited June 15, 2017 by Olivier de St Raph 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 (edited) 10 hours ago, Hannes said: I guess there have been caps for our car as we can see on photo 21 Well observed, dear Hannes, and there seems to have a little button (or bolt?) on the low part of the cap, like on D2... This would contradict the hinge version of the "master model", at least on this side. I have on the other hand added nuts and bolts on the other side (the low one). More soon, I have to go to (pro) work now... Edited June 15, 2017 by Olivier de St Raph 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 Now your figure becomes an unity ! Much better ! Hannes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 12 hours ago, Olivier de St Raph said: Very top right; I think the extension on the part which joins the two steering components is the grease nipple Quote On this, your arrow is pointing to what I think is the grease nipple 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 I did not yet add bolts to my new struts because I wanted to show the pure shape . These parts are developed out of the kit´s parts and I´ll draw a scetch to show how it was done . Many greetings ! Hannes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now