Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 (edited) Good to have news from you, Sam, I missed you, as I miss Harvey, Roy, Black Knight, Crazy... Come-back to my build: I have added to 7G first a 6 mm width (0,2 mm thick) tin foil, as I did body side, to stand the front part of the bonnets. Then, I cemented on this a 2,5 mm width (0,25 mm thickness) plastic card. And then, 2 other more strips (same width and thickness) to get the continuity with 7G. So, I have no more gap problem between bonnet and 7G. I use more and more the epoxy cement (I bought a faster version 2 days ago). I have ever earlier the many advantages of this product as filler. There is no retraction like with Mr Surfacer, it becomes very hard when dry, strenghtening the structure, bonds strongly to the polystyrene (much better than some LC resin I sometimes use), and it is very fine and easy to sand after drying. A real discover for me. Try! Edited April 30, 2017 by Olivier de St Raph Correction 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 Dear Olivier , my sister just saw the photo when you filed the frame and asked how you manage to take a picture when using both hands for work ? I guess , your dear wife Pascale was assisting you ! Or did you use another trick ? Hannes 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, Hannes said: Dear Olivier , my sister just saw the photo when you filed the frame and asked how you manage to take a picture when using both hands for work ? I guess , your dear wife Pascale was assisting you ! Or did you use another trick ? Hannes Dear Hannes, no, Pascale did not help me, I just used my tripod and the retarder (10 s.) of my camera. Pascale is ever not very glad to see me spending so much time on my models, I decently can't ask her more... Edited April 30, 2017 by Olivier de St Raph 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 Thanks , dear Olivier , I already informed my sister . I wanted to upload a scetch regarding the frame but photobucket refuses currently to fulfill it´s duty and so I have to wait . And tell Pascale that you are a world´s pioneer and hopefully she will appreciate what you´re doing ! Many greetings ! Hannes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Lous Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 More gear stick and magneto mount... The bruyère wood (it's actually a root) is normally used for making smoking pipes. It's great for scale models, because it often has an amazing fine grain, it's easy to saw, turn and sand smooth, even though it's very dense. When varnished the wood grain shows nicely....the knob is just 4mm btw. Finished the gear stick and magneto mount. Reference material for the gear stick used: Drawing 2 and the Delage photo from @Roy vd M. When it's possible to make a partial firewall...it will sit against the front of the mount, so I have to wait with attaching the wires to the spark plugs. Same with the magneto rods. Final touches to the engine...mainly some plumbing left to do...and it can go in. More soon! Robin 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 Dear Robin, This wood looks great and so is your technique. Is this still from the fondue () stick ? greetings to all 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Lous Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 12 minutes ago, sharknose156 said: Dear Robin, This wood looks great and so is your technique. Is this still from the fondue () stick ? greetings to all In the eyes of someone living in Switzerland this is probably an insult or even a serious crime. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 In order to make "homemade masks" for the 1 and 5 digits, I began to make a drawing... It was uneasy to be sure of the digits sizes... Then I applied my Tesa masking tape (I told you about this great product earlier). It has through others the advantage not to be opaque, so that you can easily cut the digits with a triangular blade... I applied the white XF2 Tamiya enamel first on my grille, then applied my masks, and finally XF 85 (flat tyre). I was glad of the result... but the following comparison shows: - that my digits are too small, in height and especially in width. - that I have a problem of low contrast with my white digits. - and also that I still have to work on the top of my grille/ radiator case, to get a better shape... So, I have to redo all my masking step... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 (edited) Dear Olivier , I don´t know if you intend to add a fine mesh directly behind the spokes of the grille like we can see on your pics of the master model. I also don´t know if a very fine mesh as required exists on the market The 52 spokes were made to prevent stones and birds from damaging the radiator , the fine mesh was made to prevent flys from tampening the radiaror´s openings imho .. For the radiator itself my recommendations would be as follows : Removal of all 4 pins on the radiator , fixation of two plates instead . Drilling of 5 screw holes on each side of the case ( the 4 mounting holes of the kiit´s case don´t align with reality and should get closed ) Insertion of the radiator and drilling the holes where needed . It also would be a good idea imho to reduce the visible part of the radiator frame at both sides Maybe the width of the radiator should still get enlarged too and the plates could have direct contact with the inside panels of your case . . This way you will have more space for your digits . To get a better visibility regarding your digits I recommend to replace that mesh by a black cloth glued on a plate for instance .The digits will become brighter similar to our photos . Many greetings ! Hannes Edited May 1, 2017 by Hannes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 Dear Hannes, no, I don't intend to add another mesh, but I think the radiator should be a bit closer from the grille. I will drill new holes on the sides of 7G (as I did for the connection with the frame) until I get the good distance. About the digits, I have redone the masks and applied 2 coats of white. If you want to get a good contrast, you have to "fill" the little squarres in the mesh with white paint. This requires one more coat, that I will apply when the first coats will be dry. I am confident in the final result. What do you mean by "master model"? the 806 model at Centro Storico?? I suppose no, because this model is very wrong and is not at all a reference for me... Notice that the digits are nearly invisible, dark grey instead of white on this build. The question for me is to know what will give the free space between the case 7G and the radiator itself, considering that this area will be very visible on my build, as I won't put the bonnets on. I need to see on other race cars of that period how it is (bonnets removed, of course. That is what I am gonna do now, waiting for the drying of my white paint. P.S: Of course, all "bad holes" on the sides of 7G will be closed and I will try to reproduce these sides as they are on photo 2, one of the best documents imho regarding these case sides... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 (edited) No free space between radiator and case in the Delage: On our drawing 2 too, there is no free space between radiator and case. My radiator would it still be too short in height? I won't do a third version, but, as the space is low, I could close it with plastic card... Edited May 1, 2017 by Olivier de St Raph 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 2 hours ago, Hannes said: It also would be a good idea imho to reduce the visible part of the radiator frame at both sides Maybe the width of the radiator should still get enlarged too and the plates could have direct contact with the inside panels of your case . . This way you will have more space for your digits . Yes, you are right I will have to cut partially the side part of 132 and 133D on front, to get a bit more space for my digits: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 (edited) Dear Olivier ,yes the master model for Protar was the one in the Centro Storico . You can see on your photos that there was an additional fly mesh directly behind the 52 spokes.This also can be seen on photo 21 , HR version .That´s the reason I asked if a suited mesh for our scale could be available. Many greetings ! Hannes Edited May 1, 2017 by Hannes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 Ok Hannes. As I told you, I don't take in consideration the Centro Storico model. About the photo 20, it is true that there is a sort of "squarre" look of the grille, that we don't find on other documents, especially photo 9. I am not sure at all there was an additional mesh, but I admit there is a possibility... I will not choose this way, but you can, of course. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 (edited) Dear Olivier , I also don´t intend to represent this mesh if I don´t find a suited fine version . But it´s logical that there must have been a mesh for flys imho.This way it was much easier for the mechanics to clean the mesh from outside instead of demounting the grille and removing dead flys from the radiator itself .A realistic model should show this mesh but the question is : how ? Maybe Robin knows an answer ? Many greetings ! Hannes Edited May 1, 2017 by Hannes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 2 hours ago, Hannes said: Dear Olivier , I also don´t intend to represent this mesh if I don´t find a suited fine version . But it´s logical that there must have been a mesh for flys imho But we have this mesh, dear Hannes. You noticed that Robin and me used the Aber S 10 mesh, glued on both part of the radiator (outside and inside). So, you think there would be 2 ones outside?? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Lous Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 I don't think flies were an issue...they don't kill radiators.... pebbles do! I've not seen a dedicated fly catcher mesh, nor do I think there was need for it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 (edited) Dear Olivier , this mesh looks great on the radiator , but I don´t know how it looks behind the grille´s spokes .It´s possible too , that there was no extra mesh but very thin wires vertical to the horizontal spokes . Many greetings ! Hannes Edited May 1, 2017 by Hannes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 Dear Robin , of course flys dont damage the radiator but they tamper the openings and decrease the cooling effect imho .And small pepples also could damage a radiator at high speed . Many greetings ! Hannes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 I have just applied my tyre black XF85, after placement of my new masks, much bigger. Notice how the white was applied generously, filling the little squarres of the Aber S10 mesh. I look forward to make a new comparative photo with photo 21, but I am confident, I think one more time, I will have been a pioneer, reproducing more accurately than no one before, the grille with the radiator and the digits with good proportions. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 This enlargement of our drawing 2 to show that, as on the Delage (see above), there was no free space between radiator and its case... I have to close this space. Pics to follow... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 (edited) New comparisons, with photo 20 and photo 9: - the contrast is good now, the digits are well seen. If their width is OK, they should have been a bit longer in height. I won't redo them anyway, considering the result is acceptable. - If the thickness of my crossbeam is good, I don't like it and will redo that, probably using a metal rod. - the distance radiator/ grille is good, imho. I am gonna close the gaps between radiator and case in that position. Edited May 2, 2017 by Olivier de St Raph 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Lous Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 Dear Olivier, The best looking radiator and radiator cover I seen so far! A few comments though... -It looks like the beam is too close to the radiator....the crank hole on it is touching the radiator and it's not vertical. I'm afraid you shortened the chassis too much. -The bonnet support...your support runs down to the chassis. The bonnet is much shorter there...it only goes from the top to halfway the radiator. Robin 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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