Hannes Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 Yes , dear Olivier , my take-up would be OK for a passenger car , but not for a light weighted racing car ( 700 kg was the limit 1927 ) Another question : How did you manage to cut off your tubes so very exactly in 90 degreee ? Did you build a special construction for that ? It looks very neat ! Tomorrow is racing day in Monza again . I wonder if there are any celebrations regarding Bordino´s victory 90 years ago . Many greetings ! Hannes 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 51 minutes ago, Hannes said: How did you manage to cut off your tubes so very exactly in 90 degreee ? I just took care, using magnifying glasses and a flat file and of course the essential digital caliper (to get exactly 6,6 mm). After, it is just a question of patience... I bought the Jigster from Uschi, very good to get 90° neat endings, and I use it sometimes, but here, because the brass tube is very thin (0,2 mm), I avoided using it. 58 minutes ago, Hannes said: Tomorrow is racing day in Monza again . I wonder if there are any celebrations regarding Bordino´s victory 90 years ago You are right, but I would be very surprised that such a celebration happen... If you intend to follow the race (I won't), you'll tell me. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 There are rainy conditions for the qualifying today so we could get an impression how the race track looked for Bordino . Some of the older trees in the royal park of Monza most likely attended both events . I dont like today´s formula 1 too much because it´s too sterile and technocratic imho . I like the " good old times " when cigarette-smoking mechanics still had oil stains on their overalls .Driving a racing car was a very dangerous adventure at that time and that´s the stuff from where myths , legends , tragedies and real victories are originated .. Many greetings Hannes 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 The strategy of hinge assembly was not obvious. I chose to glue first a 3 mm wide, 0,1 mm thick brass foil on the left bonnet. Then, I glued my hinge on the edge of this sheet. Then I began to glue 1,2 mm rivets (0,1 mm brass sheet, Rivets Maker). And then... I stopped to make this photo. Before going farer, I needed to have your opinion (s), the experience of this build made me more and more careful... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 If there was a piano hinge as Fred assumed this is a correct construction . The Mef for instance has a different hinge construction as you can see on my photos . There are single hinges and one leaf is on one bonnet , the next one on the other bonnet and so on . The rivets most likely were quite small and possibly flattened because we cannot see a single one on the outside of the bonnets even on our high-res photo 2 . Many greetings ! Hannes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 Yes Hannes, I chose the piano hinge construction. On the Mef, that I will build later, the hinge is different indeed, I agree, I posted myself many photos of the one I saw at the Centro Storico. Do you think the rivets are too big? I made a "mix" between the flat and very big we could see on the Bugatti, and the very small and rounded we could see on the Miller... (see above p. 161) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 If my hinge is acceptable (and I hope it is), I can't say the same thing for my inside louvres, very irregular. Even if we know they were not regular on our car, I can't leave them like that, considering they will be very visible, left bonnet wide opened... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 I think for a model the size is OK . Don´t forget that a model is not an exact copy of the original regarding all aspects . At some spots there are some subtle deviations necessary to have an convincing effect for the spectator . Maybe you remember my comparison regarding porcelain figures where heads and hands must be a tiny bit bigger than in nature for an esthetical look. , Many greetings ! Hannes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 If you want to represent smaller rivets , there´s an old trick : Just lay your sheet or plastic plate on a flat piece of wood and push carefully a not too pointed needle or nail into the backside . This way you can get very fine rivet structures on the other side . But you have to exercise to get good results Hannes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 In order to represent the nuts fixing the fasteners on the bonnets, I have used a bolt from Knupfer, with an hexagonal 1,3 mm head, cut at 1 mm from the head, to simulate the screw: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 11 hours ago, Hannes said: If you want to represent smaller rivets , there´s an old trick : Just lay your sheet or plastic plate on a flat piece of wood and push carefully a not too pointed needle or nail into the backside . This way you can get very fine rivet structures on the other side . But you have to exercise to get good results Hannes Thank you for this hint, Hannes, but I could have used more simply a smaller size from my Rivets Maker set. The smallest is 0,6 mm, and even 0,5 if you use the Punch and die that will give you a flat rivet. Have you got these great products from RP Toolz? So it was a personal choice, maybe not the best, but I had been influenced by the still much bigger (flat) rivets of the Bugatti, as I said above. Olivier 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 Thierry noticed rightly above that the spokes fasteners had not the good shape. Hannes added rightly too that there was no hole on the rear wheel (maybe a way to avoid confusion with the front ones). I noticed too that, compared with our photos (2 VHR in particular), my fasteners were a bit too dark. So, I had to modify my fasteners, uneasy once in place (impossible for me to remove them): Before (it is in fact the right wheel, on which the job has not yet been done): After: I have done only one wheel for now, I will need patience and care for the 3 others... I like the increased contrast of the lightened fastener with the spokes. But notice there is a ring delineating the central part, that should be furthermore a bit more internal that the rest of the fastener. I regret all these observations are done only now, they would have been easier to correct before the fasteners assembly on the wheels. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 I was not very happy with my 1,2 mm rivets, too big. I decided to remove and replace them by 0,7 mm ones, much smaller, allowing me to put 2 rivets/ hinge element. In the same time, I have decided to use tin sheet in the same thickness (0,1 mm) for my new rivets, for a nice contrast with the brass hinge: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 15 hours ago, Hannes said: Don´t forget that a model is not an exact copy of the original regarding all aspects . At some spots there are some subtle deviations necessary to have an convincing effect for the spectator Dear Hannes, I am not a fan of this conception of model making, suggesting to increase details "for the spectator". I think my hinge looks better now with smaller rivets. But I suppose you think so too, and just told me that to avoid a negative reaction from me and my badly placed self-esteem, no? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 3 hours ago, Olivier de St Raph said: But notice there is a ring delineating the central part, that should be furthermore a bit more internal that the rest of the fastener. I quote myself. I have decided to represent the central part as it is really, with a surface a bit under the level of the rest and the ring. I began to grind the center part (not over), and in the same time, I scratchmade rings. I had the idea to use a 0,5 mm tin wire, wrapped around a rod, as I did for my springs (see above). After several trials, I determined that the good diameter of the rod should be 3,4 mm. As I did not have a 3,4 mm rod, I got it by grinding in a 4,0 mm Evergreen tube.... I had to grind a bit my ring once in place. In fact, a 0,4 mm thick tin wire would be better than 0,5 imho... Painting step to follow... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 Dear Olivier , all your improvements are very effective as I can see now . Bravo ! The central part of the fasteners should be steel gray imho and I´m sure you will find the right color ! It´s interesting there were 2 rings punched in the frontal fastener . I guess this was the early version of the hole as a mark . I made a little progress too . The skeleton of my rear axle now is connected with the chassis and bottom plate and after some final works I will show some pics soon . Many greetings ! Hannes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 Here we can see the " skeleton " of my rear axle . After some time of deliberations I decided to connect the differential case with the bottom panel by the construction shown above . This system allows still some small corrections if necessary . Besides the giant screw there´s a small bolt for preventing a rotation of the system . As you can see my baby with no arms ( not yet ! ) can stand on it´s own feet ! So my static calculations seem to be OK . Many greetings ! Hannes 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 My turn to congratulate you, Hannes, for your work! Your build will be nearly 100% scratch... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 Thanks , dear Olivier . Now I´m searching for some cone-shaped plastic parts for representing the shafts . Fondue forks , electric tooth-brushes , straight ball pens , watch out and hide ! Many greetings ! Hannes 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harveyb258 Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 Immaculate work, as always, Hannes! Great job! 2 hours ago, Hannes said: Now I´m searching for some cone-shaped plastic parts for representing the shafts . Fondue forks , electric tooth-brushes , straight ball pens , watch out and hide ! Ha Ha!! Yes my friend, it's amazing what you can find in the home to cannibalise!! Cheers, H 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 Thanks , dear Harvey ! The fondue forks were not the right candidates because it´s almost impossible to separate the steel from the plastic without destroying the plastic . A hand -driven small and cheap lathe could be a great help . A normal drilling machine could work too , I´ll have to check it out . Many greetings ! Hannes 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harveyb258 Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 Dear Hannes, I bought a cheapo mini bench drill last year for about 25 pounds and it has been a life-saver....especially for this project! Imagine trying to drill all the holes in my solid steel chassis legs by hand with the pin-vice..........it would have taken forever and thousands of drill-bits!! Well worth the money imho! Cheers, H 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 There´s a mini bench by Proxxon on the market but it costs 130 euro and you have to buy some additional tools and adaption parts .. It´s suited for wood and plastic .Besides my normal mini-drill I own a cutting machine by Proxxon ( very useful ! ) and a small work-bench with a mini-drill for drilling vertical holes . What kind of mini-bench do you possess ? I guess I´ll buy one at ebay or similar but I´m not an expert and don´t want to buy a bench which is not useful for my construction . Many greetings ! Hannes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harveyb258 Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 My apologies Hannes, I think you misunderstood....It's just a bench-top, mini-drill that sits on my table, not a bench. 3 hours ago, Hannes said: and a small work-bench with a mini-drill for drilling vertical holes . It's like you said! Cheers, H 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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