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Fiat 806: research and scratchbuilds


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Hi guys.

 

Olivier....I havn't got a link for you regarding 2.5mm ally tube, but if you do a google search I'm sure you'll get some.....I did for the same dia in brass tube.....I just can't remember where I got it from!:banghead: Continued great work btw....your wheel weights are very convincing!!:thumbsup:

 

Cheers, H

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2 minutes ago, harveyb258 said:

I havn't got a link for you regarding 2.5mm ally tube, but if you do a google search I'm sure you'll get some.

Thanks Harvey but I said I found it on PB modélisme. I just have to wait now it to arrive. But   I have many things to do waiting for that... Thank you too for your kind comment about my wheels. 

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I have redone completely my vertical steering connector, that was still too short and not thick enough. This one, made from 0,8 mm tin foil, has now the good lenght, getting down to the lower 1/3  of the frame. The "daisy" thumbwheel has required a lot of patience, made from the same 0,8 mm tin foil, with punch and die of 1,2 mm (center) and 0,6 mm (petals). Now I wait for the 2,5 mm alu tube to represent the "horizontal" steering tube... 

P.S: My 4 wheels are now equipped with their weights. Phew!

 

5LlCX6.jpg

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The frontal axle was a very odd construction. It was made of 3 parts . The two outer parts were bolted to the central part . This central part was bended 4 times  because the Roots compressor needed  the space . Most likely a straight central part was provided for the 451  two-stroke engine and a new construction was required for the longer 406 engine .

As we can see on drawing 2  the central part not only was bended , it´s situation was not horizontal as well !    It´s inclined  ( about 45 degree )     I don´t know exactly  why it was not horizontal , but I know that the strange construction of this axle in combination with the steering elements  caused the problems regarding the jumping left front wheel .

Many greetings !  Hannes

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After having filled and sanded the front part of my bonnets (I had added a good mm with plastic card, see above), I have made the bonnets front mounting points. The photo 3 shows they are much prominent than the rear ones, I used 0,1 mm thick brass for the pad. The rest follows the same procedure described above.

vnWzDK.jpg

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I have applied a coat of alu Alclad on the area reworked. It is used in the same time to check the filling/ sanding job, and, if it is OK, as primer before the red. Let's recall one more time (the last) that following the color applied as primer, you will get very different tons of red. Personally, it is with this combination alu/ X7 Tamiya that I got the red I wanted.

I used my fine 0,2 mm nozzle, needle and  head (Harder and Steenbeck) to avoid masking the digits.

I have put a thick drop of Micro Mask (Microscale) on my rivets "hooks", to keep the metal look. The paint was applied 30 mn after that. 

iN3KDs.jpg

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N.B: for a better comprehension, and because there are different steering rods, tubes, connectors, I have called them as they are numbered in the kit, with quotes "  ". But of course, nearly all are scratchbuilt as the kit's parts are wrong.

 

Photo 1: the red has been applied. Still a lot of work on these bonnets though: increase and improve some louvres on the inside of the left bonnet, scratchmaking the hinge, weathering a bit the inside...

BbaRyI.jpg

 

 

Photo 2: I have got my 2,5 mm tubes from PB modélisme and so, I could replace my "16B" rod (see above). On the photo 3 enlargement, we can see a little rod (mounting point) running inside the tube. I represented it, by drilling a 0,7 mm hole and inserting (and cementing) a 0,7 mm alu tube (white arrow). And I added a little bolt on the other side of the 2,5 mm tube, not visible on this view.

Furthermore, I wanted to get the good angle for this "16B" part, and so I decided  to cement it first in right position, instead of making first "30B", (step 10). We miss an up view (imho the one on drawing 2 is different from what it was, we ever talked about that above) and that is why I decided this "30B" part will be determined by other parameters, such the angle of the long tube, that we can appreciate very well on photo 28.

3uJMdN.jpg

 

Notice that on this photo 2 just above, my vertical steering connector "28B" is going too much outside. But as it is tin, a soft material, I can bend it gently very easily, what I did after the photo.

Notice too that I didn't yet represent the rear and front "stops" Harvey found out.

 

IUiQVJ.png

 

Photo 3: Profile view to check the vertical connector "28B", the angle the tube makes (it must be nearly horizontal) and other details:

SBfPh4.jpg

 

The goal was to get an angle nearly horizontal while "28B" goes more down

 

10S4dP.pngJust above, the comparison between photo 28 and the last profile photo I made (last 6/8), showing my vertical arm was still too short and the angle of the long "horizontal" arm not horizontal enough. This comparison shows too that my plate connecting the engine to the frame is too backward and, as CC says below (comment published after reading it) that the wheel fastener has not the right shape. I will never end!!

 

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Still reading this thread from Montreal, on holydays there for three weeks. 

Always passionating ! 

 

If I can make a little critics. ...I think that the wheels fasteners on the axles have not the right shape 

 

Actually they look like this :

 

36428985460_41894f4f29.jpg

 

And I think they should have the shape as on the sketch below :

 

35990929184_63fb46b6c4.jpg

 

As you can see on photo 1A.....

 

If it can help B)

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Crazycrank,

                     You're half right.  

When viewed from the driver's seat, the ones on the left of the car are as you've drawn. The ones on the right of the car have the flats on the opposite side of the wheel-nut ears so that they tighten up the same way relative to the chassis. One goes clockwise, one has an opposite thread and goes anti-clockwise.

 

Dave                  

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The kit´s fasterners should be closer to the spokes .There´s a " ring " in the center of the wheel ( where the fastener  should  get mounted ) which should get shortened  on each wheel´s outside imho .

The fasteners would look more realistic if they were made out of a  1,5 mm thick alu plate by drilling and using a hacksaw .After filing  , sanding and polishing they would look great   in my opinion . The central core most likely was made out of steel , so a steel-gray would be a nice contrast . 

Many greetings !  Hannes

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Two interesting observations :  The first is about the suspension plates for the engine  : We all know there´s been a quadrangular plate on the right side . The question is : Why should a plate be elongated upwards if it does not make sense in a static regard  ? My answer is simple : This plate was a support for the steering case with it´s connecting rod  as well .

What´s about the left side ?  In my opinion there was no quadrangular plate  but a shorter pentagonal plate like we can see on drawing 2 and  like the kit´s solution . Engine drawing 4 confirms my theory .

It´s too bad we don´t have better photos regarding the left side !

 

My second observation is about  the 4 reinforced  plates  which hold the two crossed struts under the oil pan . Contrary to Nick´s virtual reconstruction I believe the rear plates were vertical on their backsides . The frontal ones were slanted  regarding their upper half but became  vertical as well regarding their lower half imho as we can see on our improved photo 3 .

Many greetings !  Hannes

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These 2 enlargements to show that Thierry is right, 100% right imho (I didn't understand Fastcat comment above explaining he was only half right). 

I will try to alter my fasteners following this good observation, even if it will be uneasy at the step where I am. Thanks CC!

 

IoDye5.png

 

STCC4l.png

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Dear Olivier , fastcat said that the fasteners are correct regarding the right side of the car . But on the left side their shapes are just the other way around . Where´s an arched transition central disc -leave there´s a sharper angle and vice versa . The fasteners on the left side should look like the fastener on the right side seen in a mirror .

Many greetings !  Hannes

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18 minutes ago, Hannes said:

Dear Olivier , fastcat repeated what Fred already said months ago : The fasteners are mirrored regarding the left side ,  Hannes

It's perfectly right.

Hannes and Fastcat have completed my comment on the good way. I hadn't precised this fact because it's obvious, mechanically  speaking ! 

 

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