Jump to content

Fiat 806: research and scratchbuilds


Recommended Posts

I am not surprised by what you say, Hannes.

Sorry to change the subject, but I have problems with Britmodeller since they have changed their presentation (was it to avoid piracy problems?) I have to sign in again nearly each time I connect or just refresh the page. And with my mobile phone, Brit doesn't remember me and I must retype each time pseudo and password. Annoying...

P.S: Hannes, do you remember at what page is your tuto about the windscreen?

Edited by Olivier de St Raph
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A question: step 12, there is a cable (A) that goes from 103C. Imho, the instruction never says where this cable should go. Do you have an idea? I think there is a relation between the cable and the accelerator pedal (not sure).

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As I already said above , cables A , B and C lead to the instruments under the fairing , cables D and E should get connected with the two pins besides the clutch oil tank .I guess in reality cables D and E were directly connected with both oil  tanks . ( liquids pipes , not cables )  Hannes

Edited by Hannes
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok Hannes, thanks again!

I made new photos of my progress. Still many things to do, but it begins to take shape. I have finished my wrapped front exhausts. My driver is now glued, and so for the engine (partially). The rear exhaust on the photo is not glued yet, just fixed by dst. It will be weathered a bit more with brown XF10, here and there...

4NSPq5.jpg

 

0VgN3O.jpg

 

X9luPs.jpg

 

Photo 3: correction done on the defective right front wheel (axis):

ZEHaVA.jpg

 

 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your wrapped pipe looks very nice and it´s a convincing color too ! Do you intend to mount the rear suspension for the pipe over the wrapping  ? On photo 7 it seems to be partial covered by the bandages. ( a sheet around the pipe I suppose )  But it should be sufficient if you add a small plate with a bolt or bolt´s head at the backside of the pipe .

Many  greetings !  Hannes

Edited by Hannes
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

50 minutes ago, Hannes said:

 

Your wrapped pipe looks very nice and it´s a convincing color too !

 

Thanks to you, dear Hannes, I don't forget it... ;)

I will reply tomorrow to your question, tonight, with Pascale, we are at a concert of Christophe, an old and original french singer, who composed nice songs.

Good night to all

Olivier

Edited by Olivier de St Raph
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

I have made a mini firewall with 0,5 mm thick alu, from a cardboard template. 2 holes, one for the steering column (6 mm), one for the cables coming from the dashboard (4 mm). A rubber joint has been glued in the 6 mm hole, and the steering column was cut one more time to cement it on this rubber joint. Phew!tTE2wh.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For me, Fiat did not succeed to associate very low position of the driver (it was the first generation with such a feature, the position was much higher on the 805) and presence of the pedals in the cabin room, unlike its rivals like Delage. This situation of the pedals clearly in the engine room was a problem: impossible to have a real firewall (that explains for me the unique screen we have on the steering wheel, never seen elsewhere), and feet burns (very close from the engine) that are mentioned in the report of august trials... Associated to the other problems (engine, vibrations of the front axle), this problem of design prevented Fiat (in Agnelli's mind, at least) from taking part to major G.P. As the boss was furthermore not very motivated by race cars (that had taken life of many of his drivers), it may explain his decision (without explaining imho the order of destruction taken a bit later).

 

salzFo.png

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

And now, dear Hannes, I come-back to your excellent comment above, about the rear suspension for the pipe. Indeed, there is a sheet around the bandages;, and yes, I will try to represent what we see on photo 7 (the kit does not represent this sheet, there is in its place a big and unrealistic fixing pin...)

uZQhqh.png

Edited by Olivier de St Raph
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, Hannes said:

As I already said above , cables A , B and C lead to the instruments under the fairing

 Yes, Hannes, about the cables A, B and C coming from the dashboard (step 28G), I had not seen the instructions give their point of arrive (A at step 12, B and C at step 29). So all is clear, I just hope my wires will be long enough...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dear Olivier I also can understand Agnelli´s decision to withdraw from racing sports . What I cannot understand is the destruction of the cars .

Monza has always been a dangerous track . In  1928 22 people died at the Materassi accident , most of them were spectators . Similar happend 1961 when von Trips collided with Jim Clark.16 people were dead .And there still were a lot more lethal accidents ( Jochen Rindt and many more )

I´ve been driving this track virtually very often ( Gran Turismo for instance ) and it´s fast and dangerous . Of course it is a lot of fun if you just sit on your sofa and you don´t have to fear any consequences .

Many greetings !  Hannes

Edited by Hannes
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was not happy with the angles of my front wheels, 92°, not enough. New cuts on the front axle and correction done, now, the angle is good imho: 95°, inspired by Photogrammetry 6, photo 12 and photo 21, through others. I had to sand the outside part of the tyre in contact with the ground. Now I like these parameters on my model. I just have to make disappear the scars of my cuts on the front axle...

 

SoOTsJ.jpg

Edited by Olivier de St Raph
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I may offer a thought regarding weathering parts....

 

When using washes...add a small amount of matt varnish.

Reason for this is that weathered parts tend to be dull all over...rather than just in the depressions of the part....and shiny high points look less realistic with dull/dirty grooves etc.

 

Regards

 

Ron

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the last days I was constructing the crossed strut system under the engine from scratch and I will show some pics in the next days .

 I needed 41 parts just for this small construction site. I guess it´s time for a small scetch but I will wait with that till the heat has lowered a bit .

Many greetings !  Hannes

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have increased a bit the weathering of the exhausts, using XF10 (mat brown) and a mix of XF10 and XF1, thinned a lot with 96° alcohol:

giSS1y.jpg

 

Important step for me today: my engine is now fixed in its definitive position, by interposing on each side, at this level, a portion of round plastic card of 2,5 mm diameter and 2,5 mm thickness (the kit suggested to use the screws 14 for that at step 29):

O6ozLh.jpg

 

This view allows to confirm the position of the engine is correct, left decentered while the driver is right decentered. Correct too, the connection cooling tube/ radiator is in the middle:

Zcssl4.jpg

Edited by Olivier de St Raph
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dear all,

a new important step for my build, my body is now fixed on the frame. Of course, because of the many modif, it was not simple and I'll have to work on gaps here and there, cement joints etc., but after that, I will have just to add the many details that will finish the amazing build. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...