Robin Lous Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 2 hours ago, Olivier de St Raph said: Robin, what ref. of Aber mesh did you use? S11? Thank you. Your tuto will be very useful for me... I used S10 Looks good! One thing...I shortened my radiator casing (about 5mm), but there was no need to shorten the radiator itself. Robin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 24 minutes ago, Robin Lous said: there was no need to shorten the radiator itself. Robin, it is true that it did not need to be as shortened as I did, what is a bit curious. If I had to do it again, I would shorten it of not more than 3 - 4 mm instead of 7. Considering my grille was 8 mm shorter than the kit's one, it seemed to me logic to shorten the radiator of at least 6- 7 mm... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 I have been working first on my cross beam, doing the modif mentioned earlier: Then, I made well placed holes (with a 1,1 mm drill) in the sides of 7G to get good relations between my different parts (frame, grille, cross beam): Now, the hole for the crankshaft is in continuity: I have a little gap between my radiator case and my bonnet. Maybe I should have decreased a bit more my frame lenght in the front part: 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Lous Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 Magneto madness... I looked at dozens of vintage magnetos, but I couldn't find the ones included in the kit (drawing 2 magnetos). They were probably made by Magneti Marelli. I modified them with the images and information I found in mind, but it's still a guess. Evergreen, scrap PE, a dataplate decal and very thin (0,6mm) electric wire. More soon! Robin 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickD Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 Robin They look good. I also spent a while looking for the exact magneto model without success. I think one of the early documents quoted American Bosche as the manufacturer. Some are similar but not the same as drawing 2. There are lots of very similar shapes. The Bugatti below looks very like the kit parts. There is also a scintilla magneto with a very similar look. I guess its another "we'll never know". 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 (edited) Drawing 5 should not get underestimated in my opinion . It´s the only contemporary painting we know and I´m convinced that the artist saw our car in reality .Of course there can be seen some artistic freedoms like the bright tyres and the closed gaps below the exhaust pipes . But I don´t doubt the color for instance ( it´s very similar to Nick´s photos above ) And as it seems , the fairing was not painted inside ! Dear Robin , as Nick said , these were Bosch magnetos , a German product . You can find a lot of pics of them in the net . The caps were black or red and the ignition wires were connected with the cap like modern ignition distributors very often . Many greetings ! Hannes Edited April 27, 2017 by Hannes 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickD Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 My take on magnetos is below. It is only a blocked out shape. I found the drawing difficult to interpret. The plan and side views of Drawing 2 don't really agree with each other and the geometry is like but not the sames as the Bosche magentos of the period. They differ from the ones Robin built by having the cables at the back. The magnetos on the Buggati are more like the ones in the kit it seems. So no real definitive answer, part of the reason why I have not posted these pics before. If anyone wants different views please let me know. Enjoy Nick 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 (edited) Top view: Edited April 27, 2017 by Olivier de St Raph 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Lous Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 (edited) @NickD Nice stuff...as usual! I also think the Bugatti magnetos come close (but not the same) and the red is a worn out copy of the red I used! Olivier...I can be wrong, but it looks like you used the kit's axle without moving the cranck eye on the axle. It seems the axle sticks out more on the right (seen from the front of the car) now, because you aligned the cranck hole to the hole in the radiator. Again...I can be wrong...but it looks like it. Edited April 27, 2017 by Robin Lous 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 10 hours ago, Robin Lous said: Olivier...I can be wrong, but it looks like you used the kit's axle without moving the cranck eye on the axle. It seems the axle sticks out more on the right (seen from the front of the car) now, because you aligned the cranck hole to the hole in the radiator. Again...I can be wrong...but it looks like it. Robin I am not sure I understand well what you mean here. Can you precise (if possible with a little drawing) please? I am not sure, but if I understand well, you suggested that my 2 holes (the one of my grille and the one of my crossbeam 9B did not match. If it is indeed that, I can show you this other angle view, that shows they do. I have placed a 2 mm alu rod inside to confirm that. Is that what you meant? I made a new side view comparison (with photo 28): all matches well except this little gap I mentioned earlier. I will not decrease more than I did the lenght of my frame, I think the problem is elsewhere. Maybe I will increase the front part of the bonnets of 1,5 mm. After that, I will check again. Considering I will not put the bonnets on the car but just beside, a little remaining gap will not be a problem, after all... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Lous Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 Sorry when I wasn't clear....it's not about the lining up of the holes. I wasn't sure you moved the hole on the axle to the right, but on your last front view photo it looks ok. Robin 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 Seeing again the photo just above, I notice a problem that was imho not mentioned before: if the angle on the middle of the frame had to be opened a bit more (as we did ), the other angle that makes the frame (the front one) must be closed a bit... I will post a pic about that as soon as possible 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 (edited) That´s right , dear Olivier , the frame´s upper line should be horizontal at it´s frontal part .This way the radiator case is shifted to another position and has to get changed regarding it´s height . Many greetings ! Hannes Edited April 28, 2017 by Hannes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 100% OK, nothing to add. making the correction will be my next step... Notice too the rounded shape at the front part of 7G, at the limit with the grille. Your great drawing above is absolutely right and I will give this rounded shape. If you looked closely (and I am sure you did) to my side view photo, you will see that I have this elongation you noticed and recommended to reproduce, at the lower part of 7G... All the best Olivier 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 2 other things I noticed: 1) My crossbeam rod 9B should be a bit thicker. 2) On the other hand, the frame at its most frontal part is too thick in height (and a bit in width too...). You can see it on photo 7, 9, 12 and 20. These points will require corrections too... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 Because of the fact that the frame has to be decreased in height in the front part, I think it won't be necessary to cut it, we will do both corrections (line nearly horizontal and frame more thin) in the same time: but the lower part of the frame will have to be decreased too... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 Dear Olivier , if you file the downside of the frontal part of the frame , it will become slimmer and more realistic. Because you are working with the plastic frame I recommend to add a strip of this brass sheet to the inside of the rails to stiffen them. Because this sheet is very thin ,you won´t see it after that , but you will get a stable construction . Many greetings ! Hannes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted April 29, 2017 Share Posted April 29, 2017 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted April 29, 2017 Share Posted April 29, 2017 I want to show you my altered radiator case before dissembling the frame / bottom panel construction again for adapting and elongation purposes .The width is now 38 mm and the height 52 mm + the elongation ( ca 2-3 mm ) Many greetings ! Hannes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 29, 2017 Share Posted April 29, 2017 (edited) Photo 1: the hole for the cross beam needs to be widened. The kit's cross beam is imho not thick enough. I will scratchbuild it. It will be 2,5 mm thick. Photo 2: In its most frontal part, the kit's frame is too thick (in height and in width). Making these corrections, I will in the same time get the good angle that this front part of the frame makes with the following part. Photo 3: I had decrease too much my radiator in height, and I had no other choice than doing this step again (we talked about that with Robin who, if I am right, did not decrease it at all. But we don't have the same radiator proportions. Photo 4: Now, the proportions of my radiator are good imho. I took advantage of redoing this step to replace the S11 Aber mesh (used in my first version) by S10, as suggested by Robin. I prefer this one, with smaller squarres. Edited April 29, 2017 by Olivier de St Raph 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Lous Posted April 29, 2017 Share Posted April 29, 2017 (edited) Superb! The finer S10 looks perfect...and it's conveniently hiding your patchwork radiator behind it! What's cooking in my kitchen? I fixed the rear axle to the chassis. All bolts still loosly in place, so I can move the thing in position when I think all sits well there. Finally managed to make a nice gear stick....after several failed attempts. I desperately searched the house for a suitable half round ball! I finally found one...it's a colour cap from a fondue fork! (please...don't tell my wife!) Tomorrow I'll turn the knob from briar (bruyère) wood. The large brass ring right underneath the cup is made of 2 layers of brass tube ( 4 and 4,5 mm) sanded at the top to match the cup. The stick itself is made of 1mm aluminium tube. Furthermore..a 1,4 mm M1 nut, a piece of 2mm brass tube, an eye bolt and a piece of 0,5mm brass rod inside the aluminium tube. With the knob, a small PE washer underneath and bronze top screw...12 parts. And then there is part 121D...the magneto mount. I'll use it, but I like to keep the option for a partial aluminium (0,5mm sheet) firewall open. Right now I simply don't know what's possible...will find that out after installing the engine and dry fitting the body. No matter what...I'll drill holes for the ignition wires. More soon! Robin Edited April 29, 2017 by Robin Lous 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 6 hours ago, Robin Lous said: Superb! The finer S10 looks perfect...and it's conveniently hiding your patchwork radiator behind it! Thanks Robin! yes, you are right, it was a real puzzle to make this radiator, and I agree with you, S10 is better than S11. Your tuto was very useful for me, and shows that union makes perfect: I gave you the hint about Aber mesh, but you made this great tuto that helped me then... The right state of mind and sharing, plus your humour 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 6 hours ago, Robin Lous said: after several failed attempts. I desperately searched the house for a suitable half round ball! I finally found one...it's a colour cap from a fondue fork! (please...don't tell my wife!) You are a good cooker! and your idea to use that colour cap recalls me a solution I had used for my 1/25 Chevy Bel Air round gearbox knob: an homeopathic pill half sucked, until I got the good size . Modelers have a lot of imagination! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 Gentlemen, Truly great work going on here, Olivier, Hannes and Robin ! Hannes a small difference in scale really make a difference. am heading back to Switzerland this week and hopefully can have time to advance my Mef. cheers to all, Sam 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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