Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 1 hour ago, Robin Lous said: I have no mathematical proof, but 6mm looks stange and wrong imho. I agree with you, Robin, and this shows the limit of measures... I made a 5 mm diameter piece with plastic card and a die. Imho, it is the good size. I will try to find a rubber gasket, as I said above. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Lous Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 Looks good! You have my blessing with this. The noble art of eyeballing. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 Nice, Hannes! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 15 minutes ago, Robin Lous said: Looks good! You have my blessing with this. The noble art of eyeballing. That said, Robin, it is possible that on your grille, a bit different than mine, 4 mm is better... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Lous Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 That's right Olivier, on "my" (less wide) grille 4mm looks good I think. So, everybody is happy now! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 (edited) The old (to which are missing a few strips lost when it fall down) and the new, that I can't finish until I have not found my crank ring... I wonder if I keep or not the "screws" on the edges. On the photos, they seem to exist but they would be smaller imho... Of course, I will paint my new grille when it will be over. I look forward! But here too, I think I will first assemble the grille with 7G (radiator case), to get a good continuity between them, and paint only after. Furthermore, this would allow me to improve a bit more the shape of both on the top, that is a bit too flat imho, when the photos show a more rounded shape there (red curved line). P.S: - my old grille was precisely 49 mm lenght, the new one is now 48, but it will be probably 49,5 when I will have increased its height on the top... - my grille has got 50 horizontal strips, instead of 52 (in the error margin, as they say in the surveys for the election of the next french president ). Edited April 23, 2017 by Olivier de St Raph 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickD Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 Olivier, For what it's worth, I get an outer diameter of 58 mm and an inner diameter of 38 mm Full Scale. Obviously, you can scale this as appropriately. Nick 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Lous Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 (edited) Busy week or not...my loyal factory workers managed to do something... I don't like the soft rubber magneto front, so...I scratch build new ones. Left a slot open at the top for the spark plug wires. Not finished painting yet...wip. And although I shifted my focus to the engine...I finished the rear leaf springs. Here also...painting not finished...a black wash and the centre attachment block will be painted black....gloss varnish after that. More soon! Robin Edited April 23, 2017 by Robin Lous 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Lous Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 Since I had all the rear axle parts done...I put it all together. I painted the inside of the drums red also. Seen this on other period cars, like Alfa Romeo and Bugatti. Not going to attach it to the chassis yet...engine goes in first...but that will take me some more time. More soon, Robin 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 (edited) I could find my happiness: a 4,91 mm diameter gasket, that will be a quite good ring for the crank: I have cemented the kit's backseat (deeply modified as shown earlier) on the back of my driver, using the 2008 Cyberbond cyano (special rubber): The same cyano was used to cement my joint (cut to fit well). I applied gently the cement on the whole gasket, to harden it (necessary condition to paint it). I had used the same technique to harden the soft kit's magnetos (Robin used another solution, scratchbuilding them): Edited April 25, 2017 by Olivier de St Raph 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 beautiful 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 Very precise and nice job, Olivier 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 (edited) I also want to praise both Olivier and Robin for their great progress ! As you could possibly see on my Sunday´s pics . my radiator case was still too big and therefore I changed the size . The width now is 38 mm and the height 52 / 53 mm in my 1 / 10,9 scale . 4 sections were necessary to achieve that goal . Many greetings ! Hannes Edited April 25, 2017 by Hannes 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 As I said earlier, I have decided to first cement my grille on the radiator case, because I saw there were big gaps between both. After classic cementing with polystyrene cement, these gaps were filled with epoxy cement. This kind of cement is very good to fill cracks, even big. The drawbacks of this cement as filler is the long drying time (there are a bit shorter drying time versions) and the sticky aspect. That's why I prefer to wear gloves when I use them. Notice that I use my homemade cement applicator with pleasure for this kind of cement too... Of course, you must clean just after use the tip... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 Dear Olivier , regarding the radiator case : Please don´t forget that the case is not flat at it´s downside ! We can see it on photo 9 or on drawing 2 for instance . This is also one of the reasons why the case appears to be longer or shorter on some of our photos imho ! I guess this was made for adapting the great radiator . Many greetings ! Hannes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Lous Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 With my rear axle done...I did a dry fit out of curiosity and it seems I can attach it to the chassis without risk to damage it, so that's where I am now. To get this done I need the four leaf spring brackets (4x part 34B). Not the best looking parts! Compared to the photo's they're way too bulky and the nuts are redicolously big. To keep it simple....I didn't scratch build new ones. Just reduced the size and replaced the nuts with less frightening ones. More soon, Robin 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 (edited) 7 hours ago, Hannes said: Dear Olivier , regarding the radiator case : Please don´t forget that the case is not flat at it´s downside ! We can see it on photo 9 or on drawing 2 for instance . This is also one of the reasons why the case appears to be longer or shorter on some of our photos imho ! I guess this was made for adapting the great radiator . Many greetings ! Hannes Thank you Hannes, I had not noticed that! Sure I will take this good hint in consideration. There is something else I noticed about the grille frame: on the kit, it is a kind of quarter round (in section), but it does not appear like that on our docs, photo 9 fe. I will try to get the good shape, with more flat edges... P.S: I noticed too (just now) that on photo 1 and 2, the ring for the crank appears flat and not round like my gasket. I will make a correction to get it flatter... I had probably an optical illusion on photo 20. On this, you seem to have a rounded shape of that ring, don't you think? Edited April 26, 2017 by Olivier de St Raph 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 (edited) Dear Olivier , I believe this only was a strong sheet for threadening the crank , In my opinion the crank was supported by a tube that goes trough the radiator and the sheet on the grille only was made to find the hole on the radiator and not damaging it and was not made for supporting purposes imho .But maybe the tube was elongated to this sheet . We just don´t know and maybe comparisons with other cars could help . Many greetings ! Hannes Edited April 25, 2017 by Hannes 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 (edited) Because of the wrong dimensions of the kit's radiator case and grille, I had to modfy too the ones of the radiator itself. I decreased of 7 mm the lenght and I increased of 4 mm the width. Happily, I had double 130 and 131D because I had claimed to Italeri, via T2M, another D cluster. You can see the scars of that new "surgery"... If you wish to do the same, you will have to claim as well the D cluster... P.S: notice that I did the necessary to have my crank hole decentered... Edited April 26, 2017 by Olivier de St Raph 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 Robin, what ref. of Aber mesh did you use? S11? Thank you. Your tuto will be very useful for me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hannes Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 Dear Olivier , if you intend to scratchbuild the frame for the radiator , brass sheet could be very impressive ( maybe soldered at the edges ? ) It would look very good if you see real brass trough the spokes of your wonderful grille ! Many greetings 1 Hannes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 (edited) The instruction sheet recommends to use either the decal 3, or the sticker that has the same dimensions. This photo (comparison with our photo 20) shows the digits are much too stretched in the sens of height. I will have to create my own masks... Edited April 26, 2017 by Olivier de St Raph 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 Dear Hannes, no, I won't use brass sheet as you suggest. As Robin, I will just paint brass the plastic. The reasons? - I am not familiar with soldering - With my resin driver, the weight of my kit is ever quite "heavy", and I want my model to be placed on a rotary plate, not designed for a too heavy model. - I don't think I would have the skills for such a work. I will ever have to modify deeply the parts 132 and 133D (ever cut in height) to close the big gap caused by the increase of width, and even on plastic, this won't be so simple, taking all parameters in consideration... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 (edited) My radiator being prepared... Still a lot of work to do. The frame (that will be painted Alclad polished brass) has for now a big gap because of the necessary modif done. The S11 Aber mesh were ever cemented on 130 and 131D (deeply modified as seen earlier) but nothing was painted up to now... I want first to finish my radiator before the paint step. Edited April 26, 2017 by Olivier de St Raph 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 Another dry fit assembly to check the position of my radiator case. 2 "12" screws were placed in the backward case holes but I won't use them for my build. This check shows imho: - that my radiator case will have to be a bit more backwards and lower (black arrows) - the rod standing the crank hole is too long and too thick (see photo 20, fe) - the stops on the crossbeam will have to be removed, they don't exist in reality. Notice the epoxy cement added on the top of the radiator case, to get the same rounded shape than the one I got on my grille. This modif of the grille shape on its upper part allowed me to add a 51th rod. So, I am still closer from the good number of grille rods (52 imho)... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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