C3PO 1:12 Scale Bandai

[wildman]

Finally got my hands on a load of the star wars bandai models. So this is the first installment, I have the R2D2 / R5 kit, Bobba fett and the Millenium Falcon to do at some point also. Started with C3PO as it was the first one to arrive in the post

 

Tried to create him as he would appear after being captured by the Jawas and Tatooine so there is a lot of heavy weathering / oil staining going on and tried my best to get a dried desert style base (not overly pleased with the base though as it's not sandy enough really)

 

Weathering was done with a winsor and newton oils, used a 50:50 blend of paynes grey and burnt umber and the oil stains around the chest piece were created with Humbrol gloss oil stain enamel wash. All sealed with a coat of winsor and newton sating varnish. The kit itself is a snapfit that came precoloured however I repainted all the wiring in the torso as the decals were awful. COuld probably have done with glueing the parts together which is something I think i will 100% do on the other bandai kits I have got.

 

C3PO - 1 

 

C3PO - 2 

 

C3PO - 3 

 

C3PO - 4 

 

C3PO - 5 

 

C3PO - 6 

Edited November 9, 2016 by wildman
formating

[Will Vale]

That looks very good! How were the mould lines/attachment points under the gold? That's the thing that puts me off building this since the plating is lovely and my instinct would be to strip it anyway

 

I think the crackle paint base looks excellent btw, dry without being plain. If you're unsure about it maybe a dusting of sandy pigments would add something?

 

Will

[wildman]

The mould lines and attachment points were generally pretty good. The way bandai moulded the sprue means that you are never actually cutting on the seam line itself as the connection to the sprue of the part is done on the inside edge as opposed to the joining line where 2 parts fit together. Overall the parts fit together really well. For the next it I might use glue though simply to ensure that when the parts are flush they stay that way. e.g when I did the weathering I sepparated the legs, head and arsm from the torso and the torso then split into top and bottom. However while doing this some of the fiddly bits alwasy ended up getting accidently pulled out e.g the screw fittings and the rear of the crotch plate etc. However the kit itself is very well engineered.

 

You can strip all the plating and do a custom paint job., i think there was a video series on you tube by some geeser called helgan 35 who did this. However i think with a decent gloss coat, weathering and a satin finish the OTB paint plating job is ok. For the black parts in the torso and the wiring I would advise that you paint the moulded plastic rather than use the decals as the decals were a bit meh and painting the wiring looks a lot better

[R0ver]

Weathering looks excellent. Really need to pick up one of these to go along with R2. 

[Hunter Rose]

This looks great! Excellent finish on him

[The Chief Smeg]

On 10 November 2016 at 8:15 AM, Will Vale said:

 

I think the crackle paint base looks excellent btw, dry without being plain.

 

Will

 

I agree with Wll, looks really good; how did you create the crackle/cracked effect?

 

Leigh

[batcode]

very nice work, looks great....

[wildman]

6 hours ago, The Chief Smeg said:

 

I agree with Wll, looks really good; how did you create the crackle/cracked effect?

 

Leigh

 

crackle effect was done using a very heavy coar of viva decor crackle paint in white. Once that dried I used a mixture of PVA and cork chippings to create the rocky textures in the front and back. Colours used were iraqi sand, pale sand, some vallejo sand texture paint, agrax earthshade, seraphim seppia, and humbrol sand wash. Appart from the base coat everything else was done using dry brushing to try and build up different layers and shades.

[Pete in Lincs]

My my, quite remarkable!

[jaitea]

I love it,...very nicely weathered & still the chrome effect coming through,....just like the real costume

 

J

[Orangesherbert]

Awesomeness