PlaStix Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Your roof is looking excellent! All your efforts are really paying off. Kind regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 16 minutes ago, PlaStix said: Your roof is looking excellent! All your efforts are really paying off. Kind regards, Stix Thanks Stix, It's not been straight forward, but yeah, it's definitely better to have a whole building than half a one! Rearguards, Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 (edited) Change of plan. I thought it would be best to continue with the interior, rather than commence work on the lower section of wall. I decided early on in this part of the build that I wouldn't worry too much about the majority of the interior. Very little will be visible through the windows (I think) The main thing is that I build interior partition walls so that light does not flood the interior. I shouldn't be able to look in through one window and see those opposite. I've now made a further partition wall, which will split the larger room in two. I will put a doorway in this wall and fit a door which is slightly ajar. I will also be thickening up the side walls on the rear upper floor. The reason for this is that the windows are actually set quite deep within the walls and I need to increase the depth of the window sills on the inside. Again, I'm using sheets of balsa wood, but this time to form the inner surface of those walls. I've cut out the window apertures and once these have been fixed in place I will fill in the window surrounds with plaster. I hope that makes sense. Above.... Far left and far right, the balsa sheets with the window apertures cut out. I will be fixing these inner walls to the outers using rolls of paper as 'spacers'. These spacers are pliable and allow for large adjustments (by flattening the tubes, or stretching them out more) but once doused with CA the tubes become rigid. Only the gaps around the inner and outer window surrounds need be filled with plaster. TFL Badder Edited January 25, 2018 by Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted April 5, 2017 Author Share Posted April 5, 2017 (edited) I've just built a 1/350th scale model of a 1/700th scale model aircraft carrier. Here's a close up photo: - TFL Badder Edited April 5, 2017 by Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted April 5, 2017 Author Share Posted April 5, 2017 (edited) I've painted the floors black... figuring that the tarring of floorboards would have been the long held practice for buildings such as this. Of course, this makes the interior much darker, but I will be painting the interior walls in much lighter colours. I've begun casting new window surrounds which will be fixed to the insides of the half-thickness walls. I've fixed one in place already. See photo below. It's a bit of a mess, but it is structurally sound. The whole thing will be tidied up with a facing made from balsa wood, but ONLY if it is visible through a side window. And here's a photo of the building, for those who've forgotten what it looks like: I'm also test fitting the window frames and shutters for all these extra windows I've made. TFL Badder Edited January 25, 2018 by Badder 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major_Error Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 that is just wonderful, @Badder! But I miss a railing by the stairs, so no one falls down .... Security first, you know! In Norway you will not be allowed to move into ha house if a railing is missing... Something in wrought iron would be nice? 8-D 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted April 6, 2017 Author Share Posted April 6, 2017 7 hours ago, Major_Error said: that is just wonderful, @Badder! But I miss a railing by the stairs, so no one falls down .... Security first, you know! In Norway you will not be allowed to move into ha house if a railing is missing... Something in wrought iron would be nice? 8-D Don't worry Major, the kit comes with railings! I just won't fix them in place until the end, otherwise I would have knocked them off and broken them ages ago! This is the same reason for why there's no chimney yet either! Rearguards, Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince1159 Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 Fantastic Badder, yep,just fantastic .. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 That really is progressing superbly! It's going to be a great looking structure. Kind regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted April 8, 2017 Author Share Posted April 8, 2017 10 minutes ago, PlaStix said: That really is progressing superbly! It's going to be a great looking structure. Kind regards, Stix Thanks Stix, It's getting there. Although, I am toying with the idea of making it less 'box-like' and adding a small extension to the rear. Rearguards, Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted April 8, 2017 Author Share Posted April 8, 2017 (edited) Making the most of the glorious weather and taking a break from work on plaster of paris, I've decided to take my airbrush and compressor outside on the extension cable, along with a can of beer and get the windows, gates and doors painted up. I'll be giving them all a coat of Tamiya Dark Yellow first, followed by some darker washes. Then everything will get a coat of heavy chipping fluid before a coat of Humbrol Enamel 89. (Matt Middle Blue) Once the 'chipping' has been done, I'll be giving everything a coat of satin acrylic varnish, and then some pin washes. Photos later. Silly me. I just realised I can't use enamel over the chipping fluid! And wouldn't you know it, I've run out of blue acrylic! So green acrylic it is! TFL Badder Edited April 8, 2017 by Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted April 8, 2017 Author Share Posted April 8, 2017 (edited) Here's the woodwork, in green, rather than the blue I had planned. There's more work to do. TFL Badder Edited January 25, 2018 by Badder 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince1159 Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 Lovely job Badder,love the worn effect on the doors.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 (edited) On 09/04/2017 at 7:46 AM, Vince1159 said: Lovely job Badder,love the worn effect on the doors.... Thanks Vince. Although I painted the woodwork green, having run out of blue, I was thinking I could maybe get some blue acrylic today and give it all another treatment with chipping fluid. And then I thought... hang on. I really DO recall using enamel paint over chipping fluid and not having any problems with it. So I thought I'd hang fire on the 10 mile round trip for a pot of acrylic blue and give one of my enamels a go. And here's the result! I did nothing extra to any of the 'chipped' woodwork shown previously. I simply airbrushed the blue over the top and when this was touch dry, took a stiff brush (which was very slightly damp with thinners) and rubbed away. Now the doors/windows look as though they've been repainted over the years in differing colours. Some detailing work on the rivets/nails and hinges, some washes, pin-washes and dry-brushing still to do. TFL Badder Edited January 25, 2018 by Badder 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince1159 Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 Absolutely brilliant what a difference.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 (edited) After a coat of gloss varnish, I gave the 'barn doors' a wash with.......wait for it, wait for it...... Humbrol Dark Earth Weathering Powder! This stuff is as rare as rocking horse manure! None of my LHS's stock it. I had to buy this as an 'add on' item through Amazon. Amazon, as I've said, appear to have the entire world's stock of the stuff but you can only buy it from them if you buy over 20 quid's worth of other stock that THEY hold. In other words, they are preventing all the hobby/craft/model stores from having access to this colour of weathering powder AND other products. Disgraceful behaviour from Amazon, but I DID think that maybe it was a logistical thing, that rather than send just one small jar of weathering powder, they'd team it up with the other products and send them all together. But no. I ordered 3 items direct from Amazon yesterday (stock they held in their warehouses) and today the weathering powder arrived on its own. So... why is it an 'add on' item?????????? Why did I have to spend over 20 quid to qualify for the purchase of the powder? And why then send it separately when all 3 items were ordered directly from the Amazon warehouse?? Grrrrrrr! Anyhow, here's the result of washing and pin-washing with said powder..... The window frames and door have received similar treatment, although to a lesser degree. A bit more work to do on the doors... and of course I have yet to add the glazing to the windows. TFL Badder Edited January 25, 2018 by Badder 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 (edited) A bit more weathering on the 'barn doors'. . The camera is failing to pick up the true shade of blue and the subtle variations in the tones. I've decided to have the main doors in the closed position as I don't want to have to model the full interior and stock it with farmyard paraphernalia. However, I will leave the 'wicket' door half open, affording a view of a small part of the interior and a bit of equipment. TFL Badder Edited January 25, 2018 by Badder 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince1159 Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 15 hours ago, Badder said: and today the weathering powder arrived on its own. Let me guess it arrived in a large box... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted April 10, 2017 Author Share Posted April 10, 2017 6 hours ago, Vince1159 said: Let me guess it arrived in a large box... It arrived in a flat cardboard 'envelope' type thing, with open ends. If it weren't for the crumpled up pages of the Sun newspaper crammed in there I'm sure the jar would have fallen out. Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichO Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 Very nice doors!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted April 11, 2017 Author Share Posted April 11, 2017 My MiniArt figures arrived today. Firstly, I have the British Tank Riders kit (Great poses, nice details and I've made them before for my 'Lost in France' dio) Secondly, I have the British Tank Crew set. Now, there's one figure I am a bit wary of, pose wise, but the rest seem good. As the Churchill comes with some nice figures anyway, I am tempted to buy another Churchill for this dio and use the 'tank crew' set! I will be painting up the window shutters today, maybe painting and weathering the brickwork door and window surrounds. Pics later if all goes well. TFL Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted April 12, 2017 Author Share Posted April 12, 2017 (edited) Here's the upper rear wall, with the window shutters balanced in place. The window shutters still aren't finished paint-wise. TFL Badder Edited January 25, 2018 by Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted April 12, 2017 Author Share Posted April 12, 2017 (edited) The shutters have been given further treatment with a bit more blue, and dark earth weathering powder. It might be of interest to note that the weathering powder was mixed with water, dappled on randomly, and allowed to find its 'settling place' naturally. The hatch for the storage area under the front steps: The window frames: A photo of the front door which I forgot to take, so here's another one of the 'barn doors' instead: All of the above have been given a coat of Satin Varnish. The window frames are ready for glazing, but I won't be doing that until I am about to fit them to the building. TFL Badder Edited January 25, 2018 by Badder 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 Contrary to my previous assertion, I've glazed the windows, For the glass I used thin transparent plastic of the kind used in the packaging pf consumables such as fake butters, disposable cigarette lighters, and large chocolate representations of bird's eggs, to name but three. The 'glass' fits each window frame nicely, dropping into place within the framework.and flush up against the cross members, Whether this was the intention of MiniArt, or just a happy coincidence, I do not know. Once positioned, the glass was fixed with drops of thin CA, which I applied around the edges with a stylus, allowing capillary action to do the rest. I would post photos of the windows, but the camera cannot pick up the glazing. I would have to dirty the glazing to make it visible! But that is a job for tomorrow methinks. TFL Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted April 15, 2017 Author Share Posted April 15, 2017 (edited) Not a brilliant photo, but it catches the transparent plastic which I used for the glazing. Not visible from this angle, the window 'glass' has been dirtied very slightly on the insides to make it look aged. This will be more apparent once the windows are seen up against the dark interior. I am about to blend the join between the plastic and plaster wall sections at this end of the building. Here the join has been sanded down, then skimmed with plaster and green putty in readiness for the carving of the stonework. The inner surface of the wall was made from balsa sheet, and fixed to the plaster wall with tubes of paper soaked with CA. The space between the balsa and the plaster wall, around the window aperture was then filled with plaster to give the appearance of a full-thickness wall. Visible top right of photo, the tubes of rolled up paper soaked in CA are really great for spacing and fixing. The paper remains flexible until the CA has cured and allows for adjustments of the spacing/positioning of the balsa wood sheet. Once set however, the tubes are lightweight, but very rigid, and are more than capable of holding the joined parts together. TFL Badder Edited January 25, 2018 by Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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