Yeoman1942 Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 looks like wriggly tin to me Badders. Great tutorial 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 (edited) I've overlapped three sheets of the corrugated 'iron' along a coffee stirrer to form a roof. I fixed the sheets with medium CA and let amounts of it run along the corrugations. Dried now, the cardboard has set nice and stiff. I will be using this as a roof for a lean-to. TFL Badder Edited January 20, 2018 by Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 53 minutes ago, Yeoman1942 said: looks like wriggly tin to me Badders. Great tutorial Thanks Yeoman. LTNC. Hope you had a great Christmas and new year. Rearguards, Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeoman1942 Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 Good Christmas and new year, thanks mate. yep real life has got in the way. still managing to build some kits, but have been lurking on the site. hopefully normal service will be resumed soon. I have been tempted to the dark side and have been building MaK and Gundam, but I have returned to the true way with an AMX 10 RCR first wheeled beast I have made in a while, so hope things go well. I am going to try my hand at a base this time. I'll stay tuned to pick up some tips 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzy Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 I'm going to give this a go thanks for your step by step guide, I will post my results in my thread. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, Ozzy said: I'm going to give this a go thanks for your step by step guide, I will post my results in my thread. Hi Ozzy, Having completed the corrugated iron, I've had an afterthought..... The medium CA really stiffens the corrugated cardboard up - to a point where it couldn't be squashed, stretched, flattened or bent out of shape accidentally. And I only applied the CA to the one side. So, I reckon it could be applied when the first outer layer of cardboard is removed and the corrugations are first exposed. Obviously, only apply it to the exposed surface and don't let it seep underneath. Once dry, the other outer layer could be removed much more easily, with next to no chance of distorting the corrugations. Rearguards, Badder Edited January 15, 2017 by Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 16, 2017 Author Share Posted January 16, 2017 (edited) I carved out a first floor window aperture beside the chimney stack. This window is sited here to provide lighting for the stairs. Meanwhile, the Gable wall has been painted up to mid-stage . Again a base coat of patchy grey was applied first, with black and white enamels dabbed in patches on the wall and mixed together unevenly) Then followed a coat of red brown which was rubbed back in places. Next, I gave the wall a brushing over with copious amounts of plaster of paris dust and regionalised patches of 'rust' weathering powder. This was sealed with matt acrylic varnish. I won't proceed with further painting/weathering until the adjoining wall is ready to be fixed in place, and the work around the first floor window aperture is finished. TFL Badder Edited January 20, 2018 by Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichO Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 This is great stuff! As a first time DIO builder I'm an empty sponge, Thanks for the wonderful seminars. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 17, 2017 Author Share Posted January 17, 2017 20 minutes ago, RichO said: This is great stuff! As a first time DIO builder I'm an empty sponge, Thanks for the wonderful seminars. Thanks Rich, I'm glad you've found some of it useful. Reaguards, Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 Absolutely superb project Badder. Really useful tips and techniques! Thank you. Kind regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 17, 2017 Author Share Posted January 17, 2017 4 hours ago, PlaStix said: Absolutely superb project Badder. Really useful tips and techniques! Thank you. Kind regards, Stix Cheers Stix, Making moulds and casting plaster of paris is also new to me, so I'm having to think hard about things. I've made a few mistakes, but have learned a lot along the way. And of course, I'm always glad if someone finds my WIP useful! Rearguards, Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 17, 2017 Author Share Posted January 17, 2017 (edited) Today I extended the stonework up towards the apex of the roof and added the last of the brickwork to the chimney. There's still a bit of tidying up to do here and there, and I still have to add at least one chimney pot. But I'm getting there. Having seen this photo I may 'knock off' that stump of stones to the left of the window aperture. TFL Badder Edited January 20, 2018 by Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichO Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 I bet a window frame would crack at the corner, good call. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 6 hours ago, RichO said: I bet a window frame would crack at the corner, good call. For whatever reason, MiniArt decided that the side walls of this building would be unequal in height, with the apex of the roof running off centre along the building. It seemed to me that the higher side wall would be more likely to collapse then, and as the upper floor window on the chimney end is closer to the side wall and the roof than the window at the opposite end, it was more of a weak a spot. I wanted this gable wall to be damaged, but deciding how much damage to depict wasn't easy. I experimented with various options, including a larger 'stump' than shown above, but it looked very unlikely. And since posting I've decided I don't like the look of the smaller stump either. I've now removed the stump entirely. Rearguards, Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 (edited) Beam fixed to the right of the chimney. One end fits into a recess in the chimney's brickwork. There's a lot more work to do at its other end. I've also been thinking ahead a bit, for when the walls are joined. With that in mind I've started the fitting process between the new gable wall and the side wall. Originally the end of the side wall had the stump of a return wall on the end. I had imagined that this stump of return wall would be the remains of an internal wall. But then I decided to add the gable wall on the end. So, I shaved the stump off. Now the side wall is of the same continual thickness and can join gable wall neatly. Having said that, I've carved vertical recesses on the ends of both walls so that they overlap each other and fit together with a greater contact area. This will make for a stronger bond with the CA. Then it will just be a case of applying a skim of plaster over the join and carving the stonework. It should be possible to see the 'overlap' bottom left. Below, the area of plaster will be skimmed over and the stonework carved. TFL Badder Edited January 20, 2018 by Badder 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 (edited) One corner edge of the chimney needed filling so I rubbed some wet plaster of paris along the join. I am now carving out the brickwork again. TFL Badder Edited January 20, 2018 by Badder 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 (edited) Having finished construction of the chimney, (barring chimney pot/s) I decided to restore it to something like its original colour. I've also painted various areas around the assembly, getting them a stage or two further towards finishing. The gable wall has received another dusting with plaster of paris powder and a bit of rust weathering powder. The gable wall's outer face is quite a large expanse of boring stonework, but I'm planning on adding a fair bit of moss. There will also be a lean-to up against it, and a tree and bushes. TFL Badder Edited January 20, 2018 by Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzy Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Coming along nicely Badder, what are the dimentions of your buildings? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 (edited) 47 minutes ago, Ozzy said: Coming along nicely Badder, what are the dimentions of your buildings? Hi Ozzy. At the moment the building is 1cm short of being A4 size.... 18cm x 27cm.... and 25cm high at the chimney (without the chimney pots) But there will be the remains of a side extension which will add maybe another 10cm to the width. Rearguards, Badder Edited January 19, 2017 by Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzy Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 14 hours ago, Badder said: Hi Ozzy. At the moment the building is 1cm short of being A4 size.... 18cm x 27cm.... and 25cm high at the chimney (without the chimney pots) But there will be the remains of a side extension which will add maybe another 10cm to the width. Rearguards, Badder Thanks Badder, That sounds about the same size as the one I've brought, I picked mine up today will post some pics later. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 1 hour ago, Ozzy said: Thanks Badder, That sounds about the same size as the one I've brought, I picked mine up today will post some pics later. Mine would have been 18W x 5L x 26H if I'd just built the kit. basically just a façade. I have 2 other MiniArt kits in the stash which I'll use to make casts as well. I look forward to seeing what you do with yours. Rearguards, Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 (edited) Today I continued work on the join between the side wall and the new gable wall, shaping and thinning down and a section of spare plaster wall to fit over it. I had to shave about 4mm off the back of the 'patch' so that it would sit flush with the stonework either side. After test fitting I decided to fix the patch in place and then decided I may as well fix side wall and gable wall together as well whilst I was at it. It was important that everything should be square and true so I placed both walls on graph paper and used the grid lines to position them precisely. I also used a set square to ensure that the walls were both standing perfectly upright. When I was happy with that I dribbled CA into the join and let some run down onto the graph paper. Capillary action drew CA underneath the join, and along the undersides of the walls. So the two walls are now joined perfectly and are sitting pretty on a piece of A4 graph paper. I can now use the graph paper 'base' as a guide for future work. (and of course, it can be removed easily in the future) Below, foreground... a piece of rubber lining from the dashboard of a vehicle. It has a diamond pattern on it and will be perfect as a tiled scullery floor. Below, bottom centre.... the 'patch' countersunk into the side wall and overlapping the join with the gable wall. Oh and I added more moss everywhere. TFL Badder Edited January 20, 2018 by Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 More impressive building works! I love the views into the structure - especially the one from directly above. You've really captured the feel of it. Kind regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 4 minutes ago, PlaStix said: More impressive building works! I love the views into the structure - especially the one from directly above. You've really captured the feel of it. Kind regards, Stix Cheers Stix. I feel like I'm starting to get somewhere now. It feels like I've been messing around with plaster walls for several months. Oh. I HAVE. Rearguards, Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 (edited) I added a bit more stonework to the walls where they join and did a bit more carving before applying a base coat. I also started painting the rubber matting which will become a tiled floor. I'm going for a worn and dirty terracotta colour. I used Humbrol red/brown as a base coat and gave it a patchy brushing over with MIG 'brick dust' pigment. I then ran a damp brush over some of the 'tiles' taking them back to the black rubber. This will receive a satin coat and some pin washes. TFL Badder Edited January 20, 2018 by Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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