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Any flexible wire that can be attached with modeling glue ?


Giorgio N

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As I've recently been adding some detail on a couple of models, I'm growing increasingly tired of having to attach copper and other metal wires using superglue. Superglue and me don't get along well at all, I find this glue great to stick parts to the tweezers or my fingers but not to keep the part where it should be... so I'm wondering, is there any product out there that can be glued with the usual humbrol/revell/tamiya glues meant for polistyrene ? Any flexible plastic wire, or plastic coated metal wire that would work well with these glues ? I've noticed the Detail Master plastic coated wires, would these work or do they still need CA or similar glues ?

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Not tried anything except CA.

 

Non enamelled ones are normally PVC, Kynar or PTFE. I can't see these sticking well, but always worth a try.

 

The only ones that may glue easily are cotton covered wires.

 

Have you tried using one of the tools for delivering small amounts of CA like the Glue Louper ?

 

Paul

 

 

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Thanks Paul ! If the cover is PVC, PTFE or similar then these things are some of the worst to glue, almost nothing sticks to these materials properly.

I've not tried any of the tools, maybe they would be a better solution. I'm using the wires to reproduce cables and pipes in cockpits and wheel wells, and sometimes they are a real pain !

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Hi, mate. 

 

Chris here. You had some decals off me a few months ago. How are you?

 

Have you had a try with super-glue gel? I find it's much easier use than its very runny cousin. 

 

Hope this helps. 

 

Chris.

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Giorgio,

 

Your problem may be with the springiness of the wire which may make it difficult to stick in place. Could I suggest you try lead wire. Its very malleable and stays where its put! You can easily get it from good fishing tackle dealers because its bought by those who tie fishing flies.  

 

Matthew

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On 28/10/2016 at 1:26 PM, spruecutter96 said:

Hi, mate. 

 

Chris here. You had some decals off me a few months ago. How are you?

 

Have you had a try with super-glue gel? I find it's much easier use than its very runny cousin. 

 

Hope this helps. 

 

Chris.

 

Hi Chris, of course I remember you ! Hope all is well with you ! I've used CA gel too, I prefer it to the liquid type for some applications but overall has not given me much advantage with the various small details

 

On 28/10/2016 at 1:41 PM, Watcher said:

Giorgio,

 

Your problem may be with the springiness of the wire which may make it difficult to stick in place. Could I suggest you try lead wire. Its very malleable and stays where its put! You can easily get it from good fishing tackle dealers because its bought by those who tie fishing flies.  

 

Matthew

 

Good point ! Some of the problems I have with the glue are not necessirily related to this but a less rigid wire would sure avoid other problems... particularly in a 1/72 aircraft cockpit, sometimes the wire I use (mostly copper, some is tin but it's of larger diameter) is indeed to stiff and "springy". I had never heard of lead wire before, sounds like I should try this instead.

 

On 28/10/2016 at 2:30 PM, little-cars said:

I keep forgetting about lead wire, worth a try, we have it in sizes from 0.2 to 1.0mm widths.

 

Pau

 

I've seen it available in a range of diameters, 0.2 seems to be the minimum though. Some of the wire I use now is smaller than that, in any case I should get some lead wire to give it a try...

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Could you not use stretched sprue?

It has got plenty of flex in it but if you need to have tight bends in whatever you're doing then you are best having a source of heat to very gently warm it before bending the sprue, a soldering iron for example would give you more control rather than a flickering candle. You can then use your normal modelling glue to fix it in position. 

Tim.

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On 10/29/2016 at 5:34 PM, Giorgio N said:

 

Hi Chris, of course I remember you ! Hope all is well with you ! I've used CA gel too, I prefer it to the liquid type for some applications but overall has not given me much advantage with the various small details

 

 

Good point ! Some of the problems I have with the glue are not necessirily related to this but a less rigid wire would sure avoid other problems... particularly in a 1/72 aircraft cockpit, sometimes the wire I use (mostly copper, some is tin but it's of larger diameter) is indeed to stiff and "springy". I had never heard of lead wire before, sounds like I should try this instead.

 

 

I've seen it available in a range of diameters, 0.2 seems to be the minimum though. Some of the wire I use now is smaller than that, in any case I should get some lead wire to give it a try...

0.2 is the finest that I have ever seen in lead, I suspect it looses its integrity if it gets much thinner.

Our normal minimum for copper/copper coloured wire is 0.1mm, although stainless steel does go down to 0.08mm.

 

Paul

 

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On 30/10/2016 at 9:08 AM, tank152 said:

Could you not use stretched sprue?

It has got plenty of flex in it but if you need to have tight bends in whatever you're doing then you are best having a source of heat to very gently warm it before bending the sprue, a soldering iron for example would give you more control rather than a flickering candle. You can then use your normal modelling glue to fix it in position. 

Tim.

 

This could be a solution and I've seen some great detail added using stretched sprue. Unfortunately I'm pretty bad at stretching sprue, I tried countless times and never achieved good results..

 

 

On 31/10/2016 at 1:34 PM, little-cars said:

0.2 is the finest that I have ever seen in lead, I suspect it looses its integrity if it gets much thinner.

Our normal minimum for copper/copper coloured wire is 0.1mm, although stainless steel does go down to 0.08mm.

 

Paul

 

 

Will lay my hands on some 0.2 mm and see what I can do, my next job will be in 1/48 scale, here the 0.2 would be better than the thinner I use in 1/72.

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  • 2 weeks later...

If you are looking for precision bends etc. stainless steel wire might be the answer. If you apply heat with a 'jet flame' lighter, mini blowtorch or even a candle flame until it glows red at the point you want to bend it will then bend easily to the required angle and the resultant item is also rigid and pretty tough. You could even put small bends at the ends and mount into small pre-drilled holes with a touch of precision poly like Revell Contacta Professional or even CA. I don't believe there is much if any plastic content in the liquid poly like Tamiya extra thin and so it wouldn't really glue the wire in place but just dissolve the area around it.

 

I found when using lead wire of 0.2mm it was very fragile and didn't tolerate much handling without breaking up and, being a clumsy gorilla this means it's a no-go for me.

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Giorgio . I have found this, so far, the best method with difficult materials.

 

First make sure both parts are clean ie with IPA.

Then sand paper any shine from surfaces especially metal and resin

also to give a better grip.

 

Then with a C/A primer or accelerator prime one of the surfaces

ie the one least convenient for applying CA.

 

Apply C/A but just enough as applying to much will necessitate

holding the wire etc into position longer until the C/A evapourates.

Found if you have to much use a cotton bud which will drain up excess C/A.

 

Having real trouble you can apply accelerator after joining to accelerate

the process of curing. But this some times leaves a white powder at the joint

which can be difficult to remove.

 

Lastly use a good quality C/A as some are not as good as they should be.

 

I love C/A. :mental:

 

Laurie

 

 

 

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On 12/11/2016 at 2:05 AM, Beardie said:

If you are looking for precision bends etc. stainless steel wire might be the answer. If you apply heat with a 'jet flame' lighter, mini blowtorch or even a candle flame until it glows red at the point you want to bend it will then bend easily to the required angle and the resultant item is also rigid and pretty tough. You could even put small bends at the ends and mount into small pre-drilled holes with a touch of precision poly like Revell Contacta Professional or even CA. I don't believe there is much if any plastic content in the liquid poly like Tamiya extra thin and so it wouldn't really glue the wire in place but just dissolve the area around it.

 

I found when using lead wire of 0.2mm it was very fragile and didn't tolerate much handling without breaking up and, being a clumsy gorilla this means it's a no-go for me.

 

Sounds interesting but guess I would need to already know perfectly by how much I have to bend the part. I have some stainless steel wire, I will try with a candle or a lighter, may be easier than I think

 

 

On 12/11/2016 at 2:35 AM, LaurieS said:

Giorgio . I have found this, so far, the best method with difficult materials.

 

First make sure both parts are clean ie with IPA.

Then sand paper any shine from surfaces especially metal and resin

also to give a better grip.

 

Then with a C/A primer or accelerator prime one of the surfaces

ie the one least convenient for applying CA.

 

Apply C/A but just enough as applying to much will necessitate

holding the wire etc into position longer until the C/A evapourates.

Found if you have to much use a cotton bud which will drain up excess C/A.

 

Having real trouble you can apply accelerator after joining to accelerate

the process of curing. But this some times leaves a white powder at the joint

which can be difficult to remove.

 

Lastly use a good quality C/A as some are not as good as they should be.

 

I love C/A. :mental:

 

Laurie

 

 

 

 

Never thought of using an accelerator ! Something else I have to try, may make things a bit easier

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  • 7 months later...
On 10/28/2016 at 10:49 AM, little-cars said:

Have you tried using one of the tools for delivering small amounts of CA like the Glue Louper ?

 

I use the eye end of a needle for the same job- I clamp the needle into a pin vice.

 

I'm pretty sure this was a tip I picked up from BM, so apologies to whoever's good idea it is that I'm repeating.

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