1/48 Ki-46 III Dinah - DUN!!

[steve4536]

Really impressive...top notch modelling.

[Thom216]

Again, thank you all for the great words. It makes one feel good to have such great modelers chiming in!

 

Done a little more work now. The wing edges have been sanded. Putting in the details upset the wheel wells and thus the remaining fit, but other than that it's fitting together good now, especially the join with the fuselage. If I glue it right I shouldn't have to do anything to it except make sure I don't over-glue...

 

With that done, I moved onto the wing tip lights. Tamiya has them molded  in solid, so I cut them out. But I didn't have anything to replace them, as none of my clear sprue scrap would fit. But then I remembered I had recently added plexiglass shelves to my Detolf display and I had left-overs.

 

First thing was a test of the super glue to see how it would hold and if it would fog the plexi. Thankfully it held tight and is still clear.

 

So I cut out a strip and roughed out the shapes. The hash marks on the sides are where I'm going to drill for the bulbs.

 

And with the paint applied to make the bulbs inside.

 

Then they were glued into the voids and then sanded.

 

Which left the plastic scratched and foggy.

 

So out came the sanding sponges, from 3000 to 12000 and I have to say they cleared up real good.

 

They have been sanded so much they are as smooth as glass! But...

 

I see the bulbs are probably too big and apparently I have the wrong color. I guess that should be green and not blue, as the instructions say...

Not a huge deal breaker though. They were going to be covered in clear colors anyway, clear red for one side and now clear green for the other. If I do it just opaque enough it won't be too noticeable.

 

Now I need to fix some panel lines that were roughed up by all the sanding and then I can mate the wings to the fuselage.

 

Until the next update...

Edited November 15, 2016 by Thom216

[Thom216]

Ooh, I'm onto Page 2!!

 

So adding some more then.

Here's the frame all together.

 

A little snafu happened, as I was too liberal with the sanding between the fuse and nacelle. A thin piece of styrene has been glued on and then blended in to restore the leading edge.

 

Next up was putting break lines on the gear legs. I just used thin wire and superglue. Anyone putting this together knows that the instructions call for the gear legs to be in the bays when they are added to the wings. Well, not wanting to mask around them and risk breakage, I'm leaving them off until after paint. A test fit shows I can do this, if I leave the gear in pieces and sand some plastic off the mounting tabs to either side so they'll fit in when the time comes. I have to put them in at an angle and the twist to get the tabs to seat. Should be fun!

 

I wanted resin replacements for the exhausts and Quickboost has a set. Funny thing was, it arrived like so on the right. The casting blocks should have supporting walls to keep the part from being damaged, but these did not come that way. It also helps when it is not shipped in a box barely large enough for a DVD... So I bought a new set and was going to return the broken ones when I realized that the set I bought won't fit my Dinah anyway... Too many exhaust pipes. So I started the arduous task of thinking. After a long protracted session of thought, I figured I could break the pipes off the resin set and reposition using less pipes - and I just so happen to have one all set to go. On the right...

 

First one done. Second one soon just the same. Rather then saw the resin collector rings off the blocks, I just used the kit pieces with the kit pipes snipped off. And now I have pipes left over...

 

They fit just the same as the kit parts. You can also see the inlet that opened up. It doesn't do much but make the inlet look deeper from the front.

 

And finally for this update, the engines pretty much done except for for some weathering.

[Thom216]

Okay, so I took one step back when I realized that the rubber grommets for the prop shafts were not seated properly. It turns out that the wiring for the cylinders extended too far into the crank case, which was not letting the grommets  seat properly and giving me wonky props. So off came the gear housings, out came the grommets and in went some scrap sprue of the right diameter to fill the hole. They were then drilled into, taking care to keep them as straight and level as possible. I messed up on the first but the second went fine and the first soon followed into completion.

They don't look too neat, but once the gear housings go back on they'll be covered and looking fine once again!

 

!!Happy Thanksgiving!!

 

[Thom216]

Hah! though I was gone, didn't yah!!

 

No, just knocked down with a bad week long cold since Thanksgiving. Thanks Thanksgiving!!

 

So, as the last pic shows, the engine and props are done. One engine e=took several applications of filling and redrilling before the prop shaft was considered straight enough to leave well enough a alone.

 

After that, I finally applied the instrument cluster and front coaming. Add how they go in, offset and then twist in but it works.

 

Then it's on to the canopy. Some test fitting showed most were snug, but the very rear was being interfered with by the rear compartment. Specifically, the round framing just behind the observer. I don't think it was me, seeing how that part is settled into its locating holes, but whatever. I sanded down the arch until it was fitting godd then repained and applied the clear parts. After a soak in Future and then a day to dry.

 

 

I was wondering if I should do them all closed up, especially since the section over the pilot will be a little difficult to sit over the rear framing. It's designed to be shut, but I put too much work inside to obscure all that.

 

Decision made it was time to glue them down. And cue blunder...

 

Genius that I am, I glued them down with Tamiya extra thin, applied tape to hold them, and then applied more glue to the rear framing. I didn't do the face-palm when I pulled the tape off, but I thought about it.

Tip to all, do not apply glue while tape is holding the part in place. It shows a nice example of capillary action...

 

Hence why I had to sand the clear parts afterward... Thankfully, the glue that seeped under the tape didn't hit the 'glass' sections so I was saved there. But some unnecessary sanding ensued.

 

Another good reason to have them open, is that the rear sliding canopy will cover over most of that. Yippee.

So that's as she sits now. Tadda!

 

Edited December 5, 2016 by Thom216

[Squibby]

Ohh bugger,

 

yeah that extra thin runs like crazy and gets everywhere if you let it. Seems like you escaped a disaster though.

 

Liking the progress!

[Madhatter]

I've done the whole tape 'n glue thing too - not fun to fix, but a worthy lesson in what not to do again - amongst other things

 

This is great build you have going on here Thom - I'm enjoying you bring it together. I love all the additional details like wiring and so on, and the shape of this aircraft is quite appealing really. I'd never heard or seen it before this build, so it's been a great introduction

 

I much prefer the resin exhaust pipes - they look fantastic

looking forward to the next installment

Si

[Thom216]

Escaped by the skin of my teeth!

 

And yes, something I have to remember for next time I glue down a canopy.

 

Despite some setbacks it has been fun. So far. Despite the empty front and rear to the wheel wells I can't recommend this kit enough. It's fit is really good, only being bunged up by me in the detailing process. And yes, it is quite a pretty plane.

 

Currently I'm applying some Eduard masks to the canopies in preparation for painting, which I may not get to for a couple of days.

 

One thing I wanted to do with this is keep up my momentum, as too often I just stop after the 'model show season,' and I'd probably be farther along if I hadn't gotten sick. But still moving along!

[Doug Rogers]

I've used PVA glue for canopies for the last few years. Surprisingly strong bond and completely non aggressive. 

[Navy Bird]

On 11/14/2016 at 8:46 PM, Thom216 said:

They have been sanded so much they are as smooth as glass! But...

 

I see the bulbs are probably too big and apparently I have the wrong color. I guess that should be green and not blue, as the instructions say...

Not a huge deal breaker though. They were going to be covered in clear colors anyway, clear red for one side and now clear green for the other. If I do it just opaque enough it won't be too noticeable.

 

Didn't I read that the Japanese often used blue bulbs with yellow lenses to make a green navigation light? For some reason this sticks in my mind, I think it was just the other day here on BM. So maybe the navigation light lens should be painted clear yellow?

 

Great work so far! 

 

Cheers,

Bill

[Thom216]

I think I may just do it green... Not there yet though. We'll see.

 

I've pulled off the Eduard masks in favor of Montex. The Eduards weren't fitting right enough, as some just seemed slightly off, but still enough to be noticed. The Montex look to be fitting better.

[Thom216]

Back again after a too-long hiatus! I've been dabbling a bit in sci fi...

 

I've moved onto paint, after having gone back to Eduard for a mix of Montex and Eduard masks. The Montex masks, while fitted better to the framing, tended to 'pop-up' at the edges at even the slightest curvature.

 

I decided on the wing tips lights first, doing the red then the green, seeing as the next color after that was the interior green for the frames.

 

Then I hit the framing.It looks good from a distance...

 

...but I found gaps around some of the edges

 

After thinking about it for a moment, I let ti dry and then pulled out the Mr. Dissolved Putty.

 

I applied it sparingly with a toothpic just right on the gaps, doing one at a time. I don't let it dry at all, but wipe it away immediately with a finger and just leaving the putty in the gap.

 

Of course, wipe away from the glazing, as you can see it is a great paint remover

 

With those being so far away from the 'open' glazings I may not redo the interior color and go right to preshading. Maybe after I lightly sanding with a fine grit though...

[Murray]

Very nice! I like what you did with the Fw-190 parts

[rob85]

This is looking pretty dam impressive mate, well done

 

Rob

[Thom216]

Thank you very much! Not moving fast but moving along. Told myself this weekend I was going to keep painting, so I masked the wingtip lights and preshaded the panel lines.

The Dinah is on the right...

 

Then I realized I needed to paint the leading edge yellow bands, because I didn't want to futz with the decals and have them settle wrong or wrinkle or some-ever... Only to then realize I do not have the correct yellow shade. I have Flat Yellow, but no trainer yellow, which is not so much darker, but more orange. So I started looking for suitable paint and found both Humbral and Xtracrylic - but both could cost ten bucks each including shipping, as apparently my quick search found no one within the US selling them!

I was more interested in buying some than mixing, as that usually goes all pear-shaped for me, but for saving ten bucks, I realized I could try it. So I open up the Flat Yellow to find that it's almost gone already and figure now that I'm not losing much. I added some thinner to it and then grabbed Clear Orange, which is the only orange I have and started mixing a few drops at a time. Then a little more.. Then a little bit more... After hardly any change, I thought F-it and tipped the Clear Orange into the yellow for a few seconds. Gave it a shake, and wouldn't you know - it looks great! And actually, the same shade as the bottom opener!

 

So, saved some money, used up the last of the Flat Yellow and onto painting the leading edges!

 

I'll let that try for tomorrow, then mast and start painting the main colors on Tue.

 

Edited February 5, 2017 by Thom216

[Thom216]

Exactly one month since the last update! Couldn't have timed that better!

 

Finally have main color done on the Dina. It could use a little touch up and there, for some small spots of overspray and to clean the windows. The underside is also the wrong color. The ins call or AS-18 IJA Light Gray, but I didn't think I had any, so I went with MM Light Gray. Then I found a spray can of AS-18 in the drawer... Oh well, looks good anyway! Next I have to spray the exhausts and the propellers and get the gear done. Hopefully I'll get to decals and weathering real soon.

Edited March 5, 2017 by Thom216

[Thom216]

S'okay, so the engines are on!

 

And the decals too! Although not without a little... fuss...

 

The kits hinomarus went onto the wing upper surfaces okay. With a few baths of microset, they settled in nice. I left the fuselage till last to help in handling the model and skipped to the tail. Where my first choice of decal broke. The 88 came off, and though it is usually simple enough to position it and go on, it is harder when it is stuck to your thumb pad instead...

 

It did not come from there in one piece. So it was onto the second option, the red flower amid the white slashes. All was going fine there until I put my finger on one. Right on it. And broke it. And of course, the part that broke off, decided that where it came to rest was the perfect place to never move from again... I stopped trying when I started chipping paint.

 

Off came that option, and since I now needed to repaint the tail, I decided to do the bottom of the wings. But along the way, I decided to futz with the hinomaru on the starboard wing...

 

Suffice to say, I then needed to pull out a Zero kit and use one of its hinomaru to replace that one. And of course, the ones from that kit are slightly smaller. So two of those went on the bottom of the wings, while the one remaining from the OG kit replaced the one on the top. And they are thicker, requiring a little more persuasion in order to seat into the panel lines.

 

After that I painted the tail again and waited for it to dry before applying the third decal option. And went down great!

 

Hopefully, when I get home I can cover them with a clear coat and get ready for weathering on my day off tomorrow!

 

Edited March 10, 2017 by Thom216

[Thom216]

A little scratch work done. First I tried a sponge/dab method but felt it was too random. So I went to a prismacolor silver and a standard no2 pencil.

 

[Zippo the Zipdrive]

Dinah is one of my favorite aircraft. Your build is looking good. Can't wait to see it finished.

btw I'm gonna use your build as a reference for my airfix 1/72

 

\\Dan

[SleeperService]

A lovely build indeed! You've done a great job so far and I look forward to the end.

[Thom216]

Zippo, you honor me and my humble efforts!

 

And SleeperService, the end has been happily reached!

 

Final build pics, coming right up.

I loaded the gear legs and then used some oil and grease stains to dirty the bottom a bit.

 

 

That little nub standing up is the broken rear peg for the external tank. I guess I drilled the rear hole a little off center, so I took it off the tank, mounted and will add the tank later.

And now sitting proudly up on her gear for the first time!

I hit her with a dull coat to get the shine down. A bit of silvering remain however around two of the hinamaru...

Now to add the external tank.

 

Smoke staining was applied with a mix of red, black and white charcoal colors that were simply brushed on, and the scratches are a mix of sponge-dabbed silver, prismacolor silver pencil, and a normal no2 pencil.

 

In the Ready for Inspection Section!

 

 

Edited March 21, 2017 by Thom216