krow113 Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 Cool yer jets kp & Hdawg! Parts came out of storage and will need a thorough cleaning , everything looks good , some dust is all and I'm sure after 2 plus months the silver flake has cured enough to load on a little more clear to smooth it out. I'll move towards finish of the final coats , chrome , red , and blacks coming up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billydick Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 I wondered what happened with this. Back up to speed now BillyD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 Cleaning , wetsanding , clearcoating and more wetsanding and black coats and more sanding and clear coats and... You get the picture , so no need to post any. Thanks for the interest! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 (edited) After polishing the frame and swingarm , I mounted the kit supplied stand on my build plate: 2 off # 8 screws fit nicely into the stand: I've built all my m/c kits on this plate: Edited November 11, 2017 by krow113 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted April 5, 2017 Author Share Posted April 5, 2017 (edited) Bodywork sanded smooth and 2 coats of clear. This is a crucial step in the metalflake process , I can now decant the red and start thinking about getting that on the parts. Here are the sanded parts , frosty: Cleared: Edited November 11, 2017 by krow113 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted April 5, 2017 Author Share Posted April 5, 2017 (edited) Reddenning; Edited November 11, 2017 by krow113 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 Your painting work and result are absolutely breathtaking and really inspirational ! I've this kit in my stash, and no doubt that your technics and methods will help me to build something that could look correct, but I've lost hope to reach such a top quality ! Congrats, Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delayar Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 That looks stunning! When i build mine, I will aim at a similar color, although with a smaller metal flake size. Matt black is a boring colour for a Harley. Cheers, Markus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted April 5, 2017 Author Share Posted April 5, 2017 CC & Markus thank you. Lots of sanding and coating still in the works , going well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howlindawg Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 That's coming along nicely - that colour should really pop when finished. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 (edited) Thanks Hdawg. And pop it does , final coats on today as well as some more blackwork which is turning into a pita: Plus 3 hours. Edited November 11, 2017 by krow113 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted April 14, 2017 Author Share Posted April 14, 2017 (edited) Some assy required....in order to maintain sanity! No tricks here just following the instructions , I did get all the cylinder plates on , getting them outta the way. The front and rear anti-lock brake device's are mounted as well. The oil filter went into place as well with 3 bushings not 4. My only real pain here was some sloppy threading on part # ME6 , the long front engine mounting rod. The threads on one end accepted a nut fairly easily , but the other end would not. After repeated grinding and filing the nut refused to start threading. I finally got a few threads started and then the rod started to bend , the prelude to breaking.I straightened the nut as best as possible and got it done. A 5 minute engine mounting procedure turned into an hour : Missing chrome bolt head found and reglued. 1 hour. Edited November 11, 2017 by krow113 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted April 17, 2017 Author Share Posted April 17, 2017 (edited) Primary drive inner chaincase gets mounted , not forgetting the shift lever off the tranny and the pully and belt: I can assemble in this fashion , having done the work on real bikes. One tip that is not shown , but allows the work to follow this procedure , is that Harley oil buckets in the Softail series of bikes are made to unbolt and swing out the right side of the bike , negating the removal of oil lines and draining of the tank unnecessarily. Here is the starter in place and you can see the hole for the positive lead from the battery to come: You will also see the shift lever in place, the shift rod is not attached as it can be added later and I dont want it flopping around bouncing off of other parts , which also can happen on the real bikes. Screws all went in nicely , but I caution again about the force required , it is minimal and when you feel resistance stop immed. 1 hour. Wheel prep begins with plating scraped off the inner surfaces , and small holes drilled on the landings for the valve stems: I almost didnt want to paint the wheel centers , I've seen without , it looks ok but diligence dictates it should be done. One thing influencing my decision was the flaws evident in the rear wheel halves. Upon close inspection they are not very good , with a lot of small marks and lumps. Look closely at the top wheel pic , at 9 o'clock there is a flaw right on the wheel edge. Pretty crappy Tamiya! Edited November 11, 2017 by krow113 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 (edited) The ugly stack lines. I dug out some metallic vinyl and cut the shapes to alleviate this mar on the head assy's. These pics show one with one without: These go one the intake manifold landings and the exhaust manifold landings: 1 hour. Edited November 11, 2017 by krow113 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark_1984 Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 Just stumbled across this thread. It's stunning work Steve. May I bore you with a couple of possibly daft questions. Did you spray the metal flake straight from the can, or decant and airbrush, or would it just clog the airbrush ? The bolts on the engine case are incredibly realistic. Are they kit chrome, Alclad chrome, or real metal parts. I've been tempted by this kit, but the Brough Superior won in the end. (to be followed by the Black Shadow....) At least I can enjoy your build. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 (edited) No worries Mark, thanks for the comment. Yes the MF was sprayed straight from the can, last time I do that. Usually I use HoK Ultra Mini Flake. It wont clog the airbrush, but you use up a lotta Future, which is the case with any flake job. The bolts are from the kit so far. I have piles of am from RB Motion , the am bolts I use will be documented and have started already, as some of the kit 'bolts' are represented by round discs. Three very diff kits , the Brough , the Lo and the Vincent , in that order! I have a Brough to do next , watching yours and other builds carefully. The Vincent can be done up well , one won the IPMS Nats a few years ago , but with a TON of extra work. Its one of the kits I'll be setting up some laced wheel sets for . One day. Edited November 9, 2017 by krow113 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 (edited) Banged on the heads and dropped in the pushrods , easy stuff : 1 hour. Edited November 27, 2017 by krow113 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howlindawg Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 I can see the pics if I click on the banners but they aren't showing up inline. You could try Flickr as a free alternative. Your pics have reminded me that I have the same tasks ahead of me sorting out the cosmetics of a 1:1 scale Guzzi motor. I wonder if I can get it looking as good as your kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted July 1, 2017 Author Share Posted July 1, 2017 (edited) No more stupid idiotbucket logo/image. Now just a blank space. Marketing genius at work in the 21st century. ImageVenue test: Only wanted one of these but the learning curve has begun. It took all of 5 minutes to get these up. The handwriting is on the wall , however , this too will end up as a paid service, fbook will as well one day. What ? Did you actually believe that humans will do something for free? Yer a special kinda stupid aren't ya! Edited July 1, 2017 by krow113 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 Love your cylinders, and happy to see you again on this thread 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billydick Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 Looking good krow..... BillyD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted July 13, 2017 Author Share Posted July 13, 2017 (edited) CC & BD Thank you. I was off of here for a while , getting caught up in a problem with whoever is attacking model forums Not sure why they have time for that , with so many other worthwhile things to do... My really busy tourist time of year , the Lo and a few others in my peripheral vision , but no modelling getting done. Thanks for looking. Edited November 11, 2017 by krow113 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted November 9, 2017 Author Share Posted November 9, 2017 (edited) I'll try to get this cleaned up and new images in place. Bear with me while I do that... Right , now that we are back up to speed , oh teas up! Later. Edited November 11, 2017 by krow113 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted November 27, 2017 Author Share Posted November 27, 2017 (edited) Looking into the swing arm work , I see some shapes were designed for the inner swingarm plates. I cut these; They cover the ejection pin marks and the little strips cover the slot in the (out of focus) back of the upper swingarm member: Not sure if they show , don't wanna find out they do , good for custom builds of this model perhaps . Anyway I develop little mask etc sets for every model. Sub assy assembled: 2 hours. Edited November 27, 2017 by krow113 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted November 27, 2017 Author Share Posted November 27, 2017 (edited) And with a little momentum a simple device was used to stabilize the frame assy as the swingarm and shocks were offered up: High density foam and a toothpick for that high -tech NASA feeling: You will need to leave part # A1 unglued on the chaincase side to allow the shocks to go under if you do it this way , the sarm can be hinged back away from the frame while shock manipulation occurs. Not too difficult , and the way the real m/c is assembled. Back on the build plate: Thanks for watching. 1 hour. Edited November 27, 2017 by krow113 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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