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The Big Red Lo


krow113

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Some more framework. There are some seams that will be visible , unless addressed. I have worked on them here , these are the bare minimum .

Neck area:IMG_1176.jpg

 

 

 

Seat area:IMG_1184.jpg

 

 

 If your DB game is on you can squeeze out enough plastic to fill in most of these cases. I used some liquid primer for the final fill .

 2 hours.

 

Edited by krow113
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Slightly stuck up but thats the nature of things.

 

Not too worry elitist  cliques are the bane of model forums , not the rule, and are bad news in the long run.

 

 Anyway filler was put in under the seat/backbone join , a mixture of white putty and extra thin glue , the plastic is primed a la DB , then the mixture applied:

IMG_1151.jpg

 

 

 Never had any probs with this method, dries hard and sands easily.

Edited by krow113
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Fooling around with the parts reveals some possibly visible ep marks , inside the frame and swingarm mount castings. The swingarm covers the frame , but the inside of the swingarm:

IMG_1191.jpg

 

Paper template:

IMG_1192.jpg

 

Plastic card:

IMG_1194.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by krow113
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Continuing with the frame preparation , under the seat , and under the neck:

IMG_1137.jpg

 

 

And where the two frame upper halves meet there is a sllim seam , I filled it with thinned KK , capillary action filled the small seam:

IMG_1188.jpg

 

Edited by krow113
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Electrical.

I must have wired 50 choppers in the last 10 years , so wiring Harleys is not a problem for me. However Tamiya pulled the detail plug wiring -wise on this kit. Components are represented fully , but no ancillary wiring or wiring parts. I did not get a chance to photo-document one of these Lo's but some things never change! This is a chrome starter for my chopper , the relay wiring terminal and the main positive feed from the battery can be seen on the real bike so we'll add them in:

IMG_1208.jpg

 

6 hours.

Edited by krow113
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Sure thing Crazycrank!

 

  A ton of parts have been cleaned and prepped.

 Paint lineup last night:

Body parts went from black plastic to white primer to silver flake:

IMG_1209.jpg

IMG_1227.jpg

 

 

 

 

I did want to get this flake on as soon as possible. I takes quite some time to build up the flake, the first coat is brutally thin on flake as it flys right past the parts, second and third with 22 minutes in between each coat starts to build the density , fourth and fifth to finish full coverage. Now it will need to cure for a week at least in my wood fire heated home. Flake jobs have to be approached with full patience , there are a LOT of coats done and a LOT more to smooth and get to color , then final clear coats. Trapping solvent is easily done if time between coats is insufficient.

 

Approx. 3 more hrs.

 

Edited by krow113
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These parts are the first of the additional  chrome parts:

IMG_1241.jpg

 

 

Chrome cookie lineup , these will get gloss black tonight , and represent prolly the rest of the additional chroming:

IMG_1238.jpg

 

2 hours.

Edited by krow113
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One way to get a lot of Future on a flake job is by dipping the parts if possible. Plug all the orifices , of course. Then get a clean bowl , here I use a s/s mixing bowl that serves for a lot of purpose in my modelling:

IMG_1289.jpg

 

The parts must have a very stout handle for helping secure the part while the excess Future is shook off:

IMG_1290.jpg

 

And dip that thing:

IMG_1291.jpg

 

Roll the part around if it wont submerge.

 

 

 Not really a beginners trick.

First thing to do is go to Matt Swanns - swannysmodels.com and read his tutorial on Future.

The stuff is great and has some properties that one needs to be aware of to do this kind of work. You can see above how I have a 'drip corner ' so to speak. Pull the part out and rotate it around watching the Future lay down , manipulate the part to control the runs. Shake the part to throw off excess, and tap the holder on the edge of the bowl as well. The Future will sorta stretch out to the drip point , like pulling kitchen wrap. With proper manipulation you will end up with a drop of Future at the drip point that can be wicked off easily with a corner of paper towel.The parts here were dipped several times and will be dipped several times more. There is also zero overspray, so little wasted product.

 I've gone back twice in 15 minutes to wick off the small drip.

1.5 hours.

Edited by krow113
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...and repeat, another day , another dip:

IMG_1300.jpg

 

I am starting to see some gathering at the corners , this must be watched and the parts rotated to alleviate the gathering. Its not a big problem, at this point we want the Future to thicken up. There will be some sanding prior to the red application anyway.

Edited by krow113
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Amazing. thanks for the explaining. 

 

went on the net to see what color you are trying to get and i got this

.https://www.google.ch/search?q=flake+grey+color+harley&espv=2&biw=1309&bih=671&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjIrc-89rDQAhWEWhoKHUEQAx4Q_AUIBigB

 

this is probably the most difficult color out there... no wonder you need thick layers of future to stick.

Well done

Sam

Edited by sharknose156
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Thanks Knuts.

 The dipping provided a good base . Not good enough though as the Future 'pulls' like saranwrap , gathering at the bottom and 'pulling' down the top layer. Gone to spraying today , 5 coats in at 12 minutes in between. I can see the build up now , so a combination of dipping and spraying is needed to build up the Future. When Future is sprayed there is a 'blush' of white that occurs, this is the Future telling you "enough!" , back off , let it set then go again.

 Prolly be at this most of the day, ....

This pic will show the blush and the gathering at the bottom :

IMG_1302.jpg

 

This pic shows it even more!:

IMG_1301.jpg

 

 This pic shows how rough a metalflake job can be and what to look forward to:

IMG_1304.jpg

 

 This is all normal and in the end we should get something like this in red:

IMG_2483.jpg

 

Edited by krow113
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CC , Delayer , BillyD - Thank you.

As far as the wiring goes , some of it I can replicate from memory , but will prolly have to get some photo-documentation of the real bike.

 Nothing to else report as I continue to pile on Future...

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Work today included final gloss clear coats on the frame and swingarm.

Re-coating of some g black parts for chroming and more Future on the painted parts.

And cleaning and layout of the 42 pieces that make up the cylinders and heads:

 

IMG_1359.jpg

 I did some tests and one of them came up aces.

If I spray the Alclad clear gloss finish on the kit plastic parts , it will take the Alclad chrome like a gloss black painted part.

 So for these 42 parts I'm gonna try to gloss clear the edge , chrome it , and then flat black the rest of the part, all without masking, am I your hero yet?

 

 

Edited by krow113
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On 11/23/2016 at 3:39 AM, krow113 said:

So for these 42 parts I'm gonna try to gloss clear the edge , chrome it , and then flat black the rest of the part, all without masking, am I your hero yet?

 

interesting...  

 

but doesn't Alclad have a special clear gloss for chrome ?

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