Doghound Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 The Sabre is an all time favorite of me. After building three old Hasegawa Sabres I thought trying a Kinetic kit would be an easier job. I was completely wrong. Kinetic is offering a F-86 F-30??? as a Sabre MK 6. This means heavy sanding and engraving is waiting for me. The picture on the box is missleading. This is defenitly no MK6! First I will show the most urgent snags of the kit. These ugly rivets no one can see on the original ac. standing just some yards away is a real nuisace with chinese kits. Standing very near this sabre I can't see the rivets at all. A big mistake is that two rocker arm levers for the slats are missing on each wing. There schould be eight not six. The ole Hasegawa kit has the richt number and and correct layout. The edge of the vertical fin is much too thick. Again hasegawa did the better job. Keep sanding! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 (edited) I shall be watching this thread with interest - being a huge fan of the Sabre! I like your comment about rivets too, I don't understand why people want to take a pounce wheel to areas where there's no rivets on the kit saying it makes it more lifelike! No it doesn't as your picture shows, it would show an overstressed airframe also I don't see them going to great lengths to reproduce raised fasteners like dome or mushroom headed rivets, Hi-Lok or Huck fasteners, Jo-Bolts, screws or bolts! Sigh! Rant over, it is their model after all, I just wish the manufacturers didn't impose it upon us. What markings will you be doing your Sabre in? Edited October 16, 2016 by Wez extra words 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doghound Posted October 16, 2016 Author Share Posted October 16, 2016 Hi Wez, The markinmgs will be for a less known unit JG 72 "The Foxes". A fighter bomber unit with Martin Baker ejection seats because of the low down missions. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 Michael, Nice choice, like those markings and I was going to ask whether it had the M-B seat. I notice this one has a plain hub on the nosewheel - does the kit give you that option? Wez Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doghound Posted October 19, 2016 Author Share Posted October 19, 2016 Hi Wez; first: It will get a MB-ejection seat. The kit has the NA-seat. At last i adapted a resin item belonging to a Crusader. second: There isn't a plain hub nosewheel. Mine is a wheel of a small toy tractor. The MB-seat will need this special construction which allows the canopy to clear the MB-seat when opened or closed. This isn't included in the kit. Scratchbuilding is the order of the day. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Michael, You learn something new every day, I was blissfully unaware of this structure and indeed the need for the canopy to rise to clear the seat on opening and closing. Good pictures of structures on the sills. Thanks for sharing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doghound Posted October 23, 2016 Author Share Posted October 23, 2016 Other changes you will have to do for a correct CL-13B Canadair Sabre MK 6. Filling F-86 F-30 holes on the right right side: left side: New holes have to be cut out and a bunch of new panel lines are waiting for rescribing: right side of the real ac: left side of this outdoor queen: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Michael, Thanks for the update, this will be a useful reference thread for anyone wanting to make a German Sabre 6. It's sad to see how unrealistic the kits surface finish is, you've got your work cut out with that, keen to see how you tame that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doghound Posted October 30, 2016 Author Share Posted October 30, 2016 Hi, I'm still finding new bugs on the Kinetic kit. This is a picture of the "MK 6" belly which is comnpletely different from the part of the kit. Part "D15" of the Kinetic kit is for a F86-F. Wondering from where to get those scoops for the Orenda engine I remembered an old Frog -kit of a Lightning in 1:72. Well I keep a cardbox filled with unbuild kits of the past years never throw away odd parts! here is is the result of my efforts. A coat of primer revealed more flaws. This time it's my fault. Bad scribing and filling. But time and elbow grease will correct this I hope. I thinned the front edge of the fin and corrected the airvent to "MK 6" standards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doghound Posted November 6, 2016 Author Share Posted November 6, 2016 (edited) The modified wing: To do it correct you have to fill all guidance rails for the slats and cut eight new ones. Well I was too lazy to do so and only filled one and added three new rails where I liked to place them. The plastic of the kit is very thick and its texture is questionable to say the least. When you build a Kinetic Sabre be aware of heavy rasping the side consoles of the cockpit otherwise you can't close the fuselage halfs correctly. Regular checks of the fit are essential. Left side still needs some fine honing after rescribing. Right side is almost finished. Edited November 6, 2016 by Doghound Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 Michael, This thread is very instructional and also making me want to seek out the old Hasegawa kit the more I see of the Kinetic kit. Keep up the good work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doghound Posted November 14, 2016 Author Share Posted November 14, 2016 Filling and sanding is very important with this kit. I am not amused by the genetal fit of parts. Filling and sanding is very important with this kit. I am not amused by the genetal fit of parts. The plastic is far too thick too. thick by todays standards. Maybe I made some mistakes when building the cockpit but I think the fit of the Kinetic Sabre is not up state of art. Putty and sandpaper will call it a day. Bad the new panel lines I engraved are mostly gone during sanding. Good news the unrealistic rivets will go too. There are more monsters waiting for me. Looks like fuselage parts and wings will not fit easely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doghound Posted November 25, 2016 Author Share Posted November 25, 2016 At last I got the wing to the fuselage. Filling and sanding destroyed most of the altered panel details. Once again resccribing. I wonder if I made mistakes or got a bad shot from Kinetic. It looked so nice in the bag and whispered "buy me". Must have been a silver tongued devil! The lower half of the wing was a nightmmare to fit. Very difficult to get some posetive dihedral. Opening the lower ammunition hatch which is used by the crews as a step didn't make things easier. I had to scratchbuild the hatch because the thickness of the cut out item is up to 3 mm and looked awful. You must take care to fit the removable wing root cap to the hatch not letting it hang down on a cord as on US-F86-Fs. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 Michael, Whether you got a duffer from Kinetic I can't say but keep chipping away at the beast, you'll win in the end! Regarding the wing fillet, I believe it was added on all of those Sabre's that were built with the extended chord wing like the Mk.5/6's. The Mk.4's that received the mod like many RAF Mk.4's had it dangling on a wire just like many USAF ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doghound Posted December 7, 2016 Author Share Posted December 7, 2016 Hi Wez, thanks for your interesting comments. Time for a thick coat of primer (thick because of the ugly rivets) followed by an inspection for scratches and other bad looking parts. So far the elevators were th best fitting parts of this kit. Well I'm happy after the primer so next will be the camouflage of the MK 6. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 It's a damning comment when you say the best fitting parts of the kit are the elevators - and this is a modern kit That said, you're doing a great job of getting a silk purse out of a sows ear - well done!! Keep up the good work, the finish line approaches! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarcococca Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Helpfull reference article! I`m astonished about the poor quality of this kit. I wish you much be patient. Thx for sharing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doghound Posted January 14, 2017 Author Share Posted January 14, 2017 Well here comes the paint. Studying color pics of the real thing I came to the conclusion that every olive green and middle gray will do with lightgrey undersides. Not one pic shows the same color as the other. Weather conditions, light situation and age do fool us. This is my answer: I used two shades of green to give a used look. the cockpit still waits for the seat. Left side Two pics of the undersides Now to the decals. There is a comprehensive decal sheet but no hint where to put all these goodies. Kinetic was dump enough to to forget the instruction sheet. Here is what you get from them. A downsized plan of there F86-F30/40! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doghound Posted February 1, 2017 Author Share Posted February 1, 2017 When there is no plan where to put the smaller decals you are free to put them where you like it. Only help are some pics of the real thing, but beware of Museum queens. I hope I can convince you of my way. There were only few places I knew positively where to place what decal. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bell209 Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Looks good, Michael! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Looking good with the paint on Michael. Whose decals are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doghound Posted February 2, 2017 Author Share Posted February 2, 2017 Hi Wez, the croosses and the rescue stencils are Kit items. most of the others are printed with an ink jet on clear decal sheets, the Fox is printed on white decalsheet and carefully cut out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aircraftkit Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Great build, and great references. Thank you ! Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary West Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Your effort has been rewarded at least, she's looking great with markings applied Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doghound Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 (edited) the Martin Baker seat requires a special canopy rail so the canopy can clear the seat when opened and closed. There is one more great problem left. where to get this canadian pattern nose wheel? I did not have time to search the web for it and once more dived into my spares box. There was a tractor wheel in a smaller scale. Don't know where it stemmed from and so I decided to use it for a start. Hi mates, well every project comes to an end. The last pics: Hope you enjooyed this walk around the CL13 B Sabre. Edited April 9, 2017 by Doghound 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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