The (in?)famous 'Dooleybird' **FINISHED** (kind of)

[Rob G]

<sigh>

This cannot be here already. It just cannot!

Seeing as I signed up for this one with a fanfare, I guess I'd better get my donkey into gear and start early. Initial plans were to build 3 versions of Arthur Doley's well-known MkIV 'Dooleybird from the end of WW2 (but keep reading)

 

Def gonna happen is an original Matchbox version, to commemorate one of my earliest model building efforts (hopefully it will be an improvement on that early attempt, but no promises). Also on the cards are both 72nd and 48th versions, exact kits to be determined via investigation of the stash to see what I have that will make a MkIV with least effort; one of these will use the Model Alliance set MA48113, the other MA72113, both of which I bought (in some great confusion, obviously) when I was in the UK, lo, these many summers ago. The original plan was to do one as an 'authentic' representation, which will be fraught due to the varying opinions regarding the colours on it, the other as a modern 'warbird' recreation, all sparkly and polished and pretty. Seeing as I can't do a WHIF, that second version will fall by the wayside, I think, and may turn into either a non-starter or the same bird in 2 scales.

 

Realistically, I'll be struggling to finish the Matchbox kit, if past form is anything to go by.

Photos of all the guff when I dig it out of the stash.

[Stew Dapple]

Rob, you are truly a shining exemplar of the power of positive thinking

 

If you would accept a friendly suggestion... might I advise you start off solely with the Matchbox kit and build it as 'old skool' as you like; you have until the New Year to finish it and I am sure that it is within your capabilities to not only finish it in that time but to improve upon your childhood build. Once that is finished you will have fulfilled the Group Build Contractual Obligations and you can start the other two Mustangs without pressure, if that is what you have decided to do.

 

Also I'd really like to see the old Matchbox kit built again purely for the dewy-eyed nostalgia it would induce 

 

Just a thought. Feel free to smile politely and say nothing while pressing on ahead as you originally intended

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

[Rob G]

Stew, my idea was to do the Matchbox one then see how things looked... but thanks for thinking of solutions.

 

Positive thinking is over rated - if you never expect anything, you're never disappointed. And when things do work out, you get a pleasant surprise.

[Stew Dapple]

Ah, then I was trying to sell you your own plan 

 

Still, it is a good one

 

Agreed, positive thinking is no substitute for a realistic assessment of the situation, but I hope your build exceeds your expectations... I'll tag along if you don't mind?

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

[trickyrich]

I like your your plans, I think there a lot of us here who have memories of the Matchbox Mustang as well.

 

good luck with the build

[Rob G]

Thanks gents. When the time comes, I'll post photos. After I dig it out of the spare room (it's on top of the stash.)

Stew, welcome along. Don't bring popcorn or beer, it won't be that exciting. Coffee might be an idea.

Rich, thank you. Whatever you're doing will no doubt be as amazing as always.

[Rob G]

What I have here is (sadly) a Revell re-issue of the Matchbox kit, in a rather cakky dark green and light grey plastic, unlike the Matchbox original that I had, which was in glorious blue and blazing red. I still have a few parts of that hanging around, it was lovely. Never mind, the one I’ve got is the one I’ve got! (One day, I'll find a genuine Matchbox kit in that red and blue plastic, and build it properly ie out of the box, using just the mini paint plan!)

 

Obligatory photomathingies.

 

Box (note the Revell seals, despite the Matchbox branding)

 

 

Decal sheet and instructions, the decals don’t look anywhere near as nice as I recall from when I made the original, but I’m sure they’ll suffice.

 

 

Plastic bits. All in pieces, because I bought it second hand. In the wee Ziploc bag is a brumby grey part, the cockpit floor from an Academy P-51D kit – to add some much needed cockpit detail, I’ll be slotting the Academy cockpit parts into the Matchbox fuselage. Dremels ahoy! Seriously, initial testing indicates that it’ll fit reasonably well, and it will make things look a lot better. The Academy kit is now earmarked to be a derelict, with a sun-whitened canopy – I’ve found some photos online.

 

 

OK, now we wait for the starter’s pistol!

[Rob G]

Oh, while we're all here - can anyone help me figure out why I've had to use 3 different methods to get those darn photo links to copy into the post above? If that continues, I can pretty well promise that there won't be many photos of this build!

[Lomcevak]

Hi Rob

 

What three methods are you using for the pictures? I just learnt how to use photobucket and I'm copying the second link that is on the right under  "Share this photo" (Direct) and then I paste it on the post. It works fine for me. 

[wellzy]

Hi Rob forgot the old Matchbox kit it`s not a bad one it age ,have fun 

 

Les

[Rob G]

And suddenly, a wild Mustang appears! 10 parts and I've got a basic airframe sans any cockpit detail. (There is actually detail on the wings, it's not visible in this absolutely craptastic photomagraff.)

 

 

I had initially thought that I'd use the cockpit bits from an Academy P-51D that I have, but I've decided to do this Matchbox build as a pure Matchbox kit - nothing added. To that end, I'll be using the 2 (count 'em!) internal detail parts that Matchbox supplies, the seat (without instrument panel or joystick) and the radio tray behind it. I'm thinking about adding the pilot too.

 

Surprisingly little remedial work will be needed. Revell haven't spent the time to mould this as well as I remember my original Matchbox issue, there's a number of sink marks to take care of, but a bit of careful fitting has given me almost gap-free wing/fuselage joints and nothing to do around the fuselage seam at all. A tribute to the Matchbox designers, I think. Say what you like about the toy-like nature of many of their kits, they were ideal for their intended market, the pocket money brigade. No fuss builds and rugged parts for playing with.

 

 

As can be seen, that's a pretty good join. A little smear of PPP will sort that right out, I think. (And there's some wing detail.) Speaking of detail, it's an odd mix of raised and recessed; I won't be rescribing anything, first because I hate doing it, second because I suck at it and third because this is a blood'n'guts Matchbox build and rescribing is for losers! (That's my excuse anyway.) Also to be seen are a few of the sink marks - nothing that a gentle smear of Mr Surfacer won't fix. There's no interior yet (such as it is) because I forgot to add it in my rush and eager haste to get motoring. When I realised that I'd completely forgotten it all, I checked and yes, both bits will still drop into place. Whew! The fuselage join has had nothing more than a scalpel blade dragged over it to smooth things out - pretty good result for a kit released in 1972. (44 yeas ago, for those who are counting)

Underside, illustrating Matchbox's truly interesting solution to the whole 'adding the wings' situation. I had to relieve both the grey 'tabs' and the green 'holes' to make it all fit together smoothly, but it wasn't much work and it looks OK. It looked better before I started messing with it, but a touch of Mr Surfacer-san there and it'll be right as rain. One of those odd little 'detail' parts that Matchbox sometimes added to their kits is also visible in this shot - the 2 part radiator intake lip. It's very small, and very fine, and fitted together with nary a murmur. In stark contrast is the induction intake on the nose - the real part is a perforated plate, a lot of RAF Mustangs had louvres screwed/riveted over them (Dooleybird included), but Matchbox has used a simple and easy to cut into the mould raised square mesh pattern. Slackers. Never mind, it bain't the end of the world.

 

The work continues, I'll update when there's owt to see.

As an aside, I'm making this wee beastie on my computer desk, because my dedicated modelling bench is somewhat inaccessible right now - I've been moving furniture and all sorts, and it's all piled up in front of the work space. The bench also has the moribund shapes of many a failed GB on it, so I'm not going near it until KUTA starts. THIS ONE is going to be a finisher. (Probably not even in the top 10 20, but it WILL be finished.)

More anon.

[stevej60]

Nice to see progress Rob,happy memories of this kit!

[Stew Dapple]

Coming together nicely mate

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

[Rob G]

PRIMER! A few bits to tidy up now that I can actually see what's going on (including a spider web that drifted across the sky as I was painting this morning, most visible in the u/c well), but not looking too bad for an old girl. I've ended up doing a spot of scribing (loser...) - Matchbox didn't see fit to give any representation of the radiator outlet, so that's been added in, sort of (measurements taken from the new Airfix P-51D, sort of) and there's a couple of raised panel lines under the nose that I'll scribe, seeing as cleaning up the joint has removed some of them. Apart from that, it's golden.
 

 

 

Now, I'm away to work for 1 night shift.

More when there's some.

[Lomcevak]

Hi Rob! This looks really good after that primer! 

[Rob G]

Thanks Lomcevac. It can only get better!

[Rob G]

Aaaaand.... most of the primer's off again while I sort out the various self-imposed blunders. Never mind, they still make the stuff.

 

 

I decided to modify things a little bit to better represent a Mustang - removals only, no additions. To that end, I've scraped off the (truly awful) 'fabric' effect on ailerons, flaps (!!) and elevators, while leaving the rudder as it was. Also visible are the remaining ghosts of the sink marks on the flaps and wing tips; that's close enough. In the top view, you can see the fine white line left by the PPP - careful fettling minimised the wing/fuselage gap and saved me from one of my least favourite tasks, sanding filler.

 

 

The other thing I've done is to open up the intake under the spinner; I'm not sure that that was a good idea, as I now have a big empty hole there. On the other hand, the blank panel looked odd. If I'd thought about it earlier, I would have installed a bulkhead to block the view. Never mind. Just a note, the hole has been tidied up a bit since I took this photo, it now looks a little better than it does here.

 

Final primer for the airframe and all the little bits will go on tomorrow, then this will have to sit for the weekend, as I'm off to a music festival.

 

More when it happens.

[Wolwe82]

wow remember building this kit as a kid, it is so great memories! cant wait to see your result  

[Rob G]

Back home after my weekend away listening to and photographing musicians. Here's a few from Friday night. Richie Ramone and his band. Yes, THE Richie Ramone. Still in fine voice and getting the people jumping.

 

 

 

 

Quite a few more to still sort out and edit... it was a big (but fantastic) 3 days.

 

Back to plastic airyplanes...

 

First task this afternoon when I got home was to do a final clean up of the Mustang and blow some jam on her. I chose Humbrol 191 to represent the Aluminium paint, and duly added some to the airbrush. Halfway through the first coat, I remembered that this was the tin of paint that had caused me so much grief with the Gnat a few months ago... Oh well, too late to worry, keep on spraying and see where we end up. Almost perfect is where we've ended up, which I found amazing. (Ignore that underlined preceding dribble. I'm full of it. I went back and reread my Gnat thread and I'd used #11 on that one. I was genuinely surprised at the time, but then I got smarter. Explains why the 191 worked, doesn't it?)  While I was on a roll, I dug the Gnat out from the Shelf of Doom and resprayed her too. Looks good now Me's a happy little Vegemite. If I have a complaint, it's that the 191 might be a bit too bright, but never mind. A coat of satin after decaling will no doubt knock that back a bit, and hopefully hide the less-than-stellar surface preparation (silver is a right cow for showing up scratches, isn't it?).

 

Exciting photos of small plastic airyplanes will follow tomorrow, when all is dry. I promise to not inflict any more music photos on you.

[Rob G]

Hmm, closer examination by the light of the new day leads me to a decision to strip the Mustang and get it looking right before I commit to new paint again.

 

Oven cleaner, here we come.

[Lomcevak]

3 hours ago, Rob G said:

Hmm, closer examination by the light of the new day leads me to a decision to strip the Mustang and get it looking right before I commit to new paint again.

 

Oven cleaner, here we come.

 

oops, sorry to hear that Rob 

 

May I ask how is the process with the oven cleaner? It would remove the paint without affecting the cement or the surface? 

 

Those shots of the musicians are great, it seems they used your first shot to print the face on the girl's t shirt. 

[Rob G]

Oven cleaner is pretty easy to use- spray it on, then leave it to soak for a while. I usually then scrub it off under running warm water using a toothbrush. Sometimes a second or third go is needed. Some paints are very difficult to shift and will need a lot more work, some will leave a colour stain behind (red and yellow on white plastic in particular), and it seems that the longer the paint's been down, the harder it is to shift.

 

Some fillers are affected by it, and will get damaged, and superglue will sometimes let go, but that's about the worst that happens. I've never had plastic get affected by it, or had issues with properly glued seams. Handling the model and scrubbing it is of course something that can lead to damage unless you're careful. At times, you may have to clean out panel lines by hand with a scalpel blade or scriber or whatever.

 

You have to use the caustic cleaner, which is just like commercial paint stripper. I use the cheapest one I can find. The housewife friendly 'low odour' types don't seem to work.

 

That's about it. Best advice is to try it on an old model first and see how it goes before committing to fixing a new build.

 

Thanks for the comments about the photos. It was a great show (if you like old school punk, which I rather do.)

[Lomcevak]

Thank you Rob, very detailed explanation. And yes, these shots look really good, even as an amateur photographer I know that is particularly difficult to get sharp  shots in low light, unless you have a super fast glass. 

[Rob G]

Lomcevak, I shoot with 2.8 zooms and a 200 f/2 (and others). It's not so much the low light as it is the variable light and the high contrast between lit and unlit areas. Shoot in manual and use the Auto-ISO function, it's one of the Godsends of digital.

In other, more plasticky news, the Matchbox Mustang may get a new undercoat tomorrow. Or not, depending.

[Rob G]

It's been a trial, really it has. I've had at least 3 goes at putting primer onto this.... thing, and every time that I do, I find more ugly bits. Yesterday, I said "Arrrr, buggrit", gave it a final rub down and threw some silver at it. It looks ok. Not OK, just ok. It'll do. I'm off to work for 9 nights (longest run I've had all year), so it can set up well while I'm away and when I return I can start final assembly and decalling.

 

Today, I've also masked up the Gnat, put on white undercoat then the fluoro orange top coats. Many, many of those. Thankfully, I've used Gunze Sangyo acrylics thinned with IPA here, so they dried almost instantly and it wasn't a major drag to get good colour. This can also sit while I'm away and I can see it with fresh eyes when I'm back. If it needs a bit more colour that can be done, then like the Mustang I can get on with the fiddly bits.

 

Photos later. Probably not until I'm back.