Air Hockey Propellers Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 (edited) Hello everyone, My last few models were without WIP posts because I knew I would make them quickly and so the WIP wouldn't have more than three posts from my part. However, this kit is different because it is discontinued. Also, it is my first Fujimi in 20 years and a kit I had already done twice when I was a kid, so I hardly remember about in anyway. This decal set is what's discontinued and even though scalemates sets it at 1997, the instruction manual was printed in 1987. So I would like to share with you guys the WIP for the Chinook. I will take my time for this build as I get the right paints from the right brands and chances are, it will be in the backburner while other kits swift through... For some mysterious reason I'm nervous about this one. Needs slicing pieces in half and removing bits of plastic, things I'm not familiar with and don't want to mess up, either. At the corner of the table, my last two models. They were painted with olive drab and I thought of painting the Chinook Olive Drab too but desisted. I'll wait to get the right paints for hand painting, Vallejo paints... Edited September 30, 2016 by AlbertoYagi Mistake in title. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Boak Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 You need to change the title - it isn't a Chinook but a Sea Knight. The Chinook is way bigger. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Air Hockey Propellers Posted September 30, 2016 Author Share Posted September 30, 2016 1 minute ago, Graham Boak said: You need to change the title - it isn't a Chinook but a Sea Knight. The Chinook is way bigger. Wooops. I don't think I can change the title. And wow, I've always called them Chinooks. Thanks for the observation! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Boak Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 With the previous software, if you returned to your original posting and selected Full Edit, you could change your title. I haven't tried it since the changeover. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Air Hockey Propellers Posted September 30, 2016 Author Share Posted September 30, 2016 1 minute ago, Graham Boak said: With the previous software, if you returned to your original posting and selected Full Edit, you could change your title. I haven't tried it since the changeover. Got it, thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIGHTS ON Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 Can't go wrong with a Phrog, great looking helicopter (is it still flown by Japan/Canada?). Calling it a Chinook might upset a few Marines though !!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 Go to it Alberto! Watching with interest! Tony 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 This looks interesting! You will be fine with this build and if you do get bogged down, remember we are all here with helpful advice and good natured abuse! Martian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdave22014 Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 Just seen your Apache in RFI so I'll be following this with interest. As for slicing things in half, get the best razor saw you can. The thinner the blade the better, use masking tape as a guide, check everything three times before you start cutting, and take it slow! There's no prizes for finshing first. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Edmundson Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 13 hours ago, FIGHTS ON said: Can't go wrong with a Phrog, great looking helicopter (is it still flown by Japan/Canada?). Calling it a Chinook might upset a few Marines though !!! Canada retired their Labrador/Voyageurs many years ago and now flies the EH101 Cormorant in the SAR role. Tony 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Air Hockey Propellers Posted October 1, 2016 Author Share Posted October 1, 2016 13 minutes ago, Tony Edmundson said: Canada retired their Labrador/Voyageurs many years ago and now flies the EH101 Cormorant in the SAR role. Tony A quick research in wikipedia revealed that Japan's Air Self Defence Force replaced them for Chinooks while the Maritime SDF replaced them for EH101s too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malpaso Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 I always liked the look of the CH-46 more than the Chinook, the latter looks too bloated. More likely my preference is because Airfix only made the Sea Knight back in the day! Look forward to seeing how the Fujimi builds out. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Dot Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 Hi Alberto, i have made a jasdf one of these. It is a great kit but there are a couple of things to watch out for, namely the joint on the underside of the fuselage by the front wheel needs reinforcement as the plastic is bowed. You will need some filler and the extra strength stops the joint flexing. Also, it is really easy to knock out the bubble Windows, so leave the cabin door off until the end of the build and add the Windows using a bent piece of wire and a small blob of blutack to hold the plastic on the end of the wire. Put glue on the plastic and ease it into place through the door opening. It sounds hard to do but is actually very easy. have fun andy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Air Hockey Propellers Posted October 1, 2016 Author Share Posted October 1, 2016 5 hours ago, Red Dot said: Hi Alberto, i have made a jasdf one of these. It is a great kit but there are a couple of things to watch out for, namely the joint on the underside of the fuselage by the front wheel needs reinforcement as the plastic is bowed. You will need some filler and the extra strength stops the joint flexing. Also, it is really easy to knock out the bubble Windows, so leave the cabin door off until the end of the build and add the Windows using a bent piece of wire and a small blob of blutack to hold the plastic on the end of the wire. Put glue on the plastic and ease it into place through the door opening. It sounds hard to do but is actually very easy. have fun andy Hello Andy, Thank you very much for the tips. However, let me confirm if I understood "the underside of the fuselage by the front wheel [...] as the plastic is bowed". Do you mean that the joint flexing happens if you press the helicopter from underneath? And about the bubble windows, thank you very much for warning me. And while on the topic of windows, how would airbrush painters normally cover them up? I paint by hand and my plan so far is to paint the area around the windows first, stick the windows in place with white glue (since the interior will be painted as well) and paint the rest of the fuselage once the halves are fused. ... As for the assembly so far, I had to correct a flaw in the cockpit since the lever should go way back from where the plastic indicates, so I stuck it with CA and filled the whole I didn't use with putty. Also, there were gaps between the instrument console and the floor of the cockpit which I filled with solvent based glue. The color was supposed to be H57, an aircraft grey, but I find it to be a bit light in comparison to the pictures of the Sea Knight's cockpit on the Internet. I ended up painting the cockpit black fully aware that it's not 100% accurate. I will, however, paint the cargo bay grey and this and that in different colors to compensate. So my way of doing this is to stick the pieces together and then paint. But in this case, I left out some parts of the cockpit to make the instrument panel more accessible to the decals. The plastic of the instrument panels have a strong relief so I hope I won't have to struggle with these 29 year old decals, which has made me think on the wisdom of covering some with matte clear coat (matte is the only one I have) to make them stronger... and avoid them from shining too and giving them a try on scrap plastic... Here are the photos: That's the cosmetic's brush I use to clear the bits of plastic I scrape off. Very useful. And thankfully I have the decal softener to use on that instrument panel's decals. Hmm, I wonder if the softener will work if I reinforce the decal with the matte clear coat... Thoroughly mixed Tamiya Acrylic XF-1 flat black and the proprietary thinner. The paint brush is cheap but new and I'm taking good care of it by using it properly. This forum will make me accountable for that. I left that corner of the cockpit without paint because that's where the other lever goes with CA but I think I exaggerated. I see myself building this one slowly, savoring every moment of it since once done, you'll hardly be able to see inside. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Dot Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 Hi Alberto, the plastic underneath is bowed and does not give a smooth seam. The strengthening plate helps but it needs filler. This can crack when pressed too hard. fit the Windows at the end after all the painting andy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Air Hockey Propellers Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Air Hockey Propellers Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 Well, I spent all afternoon outside but still managed to squeeze in a few hours begore midnight. This time, I was delt with the "remove this part" bits and super glued the seats to the walls. That way I can easily paint the floor a different color to make it interesting. I also created my own grey which is light and shiny enough for the interior to be more visible. I also bought the field green paint for the exterior and a small saw for the surgery. On 10/1/2016 at 1:30 PM, Bigdave22014 said: As for slicing things in half, get the best razor saw you can. The thinner the blade the better, use masking tape as a guide, check everything three times before you start cutting, and take it slow! There's no prizes for finshing first. Thanks for your advice Dave. What do you think about this one? It's what I could afford and it's supposed to be 0.1mm. Question: Is it common to paint the frames of the canopy from the inside in this scale? Do modellers actually do that? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 In this scale it will be enough to paint the cockpit frames interior from the outside. Martian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Air Hockey Propellers Posted October 3, 2016 Author Share Posted October 3, 2016 7 hours ago, Martian Hale said: In this scale it will be enough to paint the cockpit frames interior from the outside. Martian Roger that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdave22014 Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 If that's as fine as you've got, then it should do. I have no experience of trumpeter saws, and no way of measuring mine! Keep up the good work! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Air Hockey Propellers Posted October 3, 2016 Author Share Posted October 3, 2016 11 minutes ago, Bigdave22014 said: If that's as fine as you've got, then it should do. I have no experience of trumpeter saws, and no way of measuring mine! Keep up the good work! Product review: it's not stainless steel so it has so grease on which the shredded plastic sticks to. The small toothed saw works nicely, but it's bent to a side. Progress: Gotta love enamels. Just one layer. Thank you Andy. Got the blu tack as well. Looking good. A small flaw, the floor in the mini corridor was missing so Im puting putty in there to correct it. The opened door also has little grip so I put lots of solvent glue and CA. I'll probably finish assembling it tomorrow since Im not working and give it the first layer or paint. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 Good progress! Martain 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Air Hockey Propellers Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 Fixing the floor more comfortably. The stairs glued themselves a bit crooked, happens when you leave the cement to dry overnight without checking. Fixed. While there was some.guess work here and a few errors in the instruction boklet, Im quite satisfied with the level of detail here. Tried Mr hobby color and was inmensly satisfied. A strong smell, good adhesion, no roll up , good coverage. Quite similar to tamiya enamel in large surfaces at least. Only detail maybe, dries a bit too fast. Other than that, great! In the background you can see the dropper which unlike when I use tamiya acrylics, I couldnt wash it clean at all. Also, that's painted by brush, which I prefer because the rough finish is more realistic than the perfect.smoothness from airbrushes. I have a question to any who might know, do the rotors cross path in these? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 Nice brushwork! Martian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdave22014 Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 Nice finish for brush. Well done! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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