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Navy-ation - Wasp The last post


perdu

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Excellent leg work Bill. I'd say (as does everyone else) that you've nailed. And quite a tricky thing to get right too.

 

"Paid about six quid for it from one of those "Gimmee Gimmee" catalogues we get  through the door and in the Daily Papers "

 

Careful what you purchase from these sources...a while back I bought some X-ray specs, a book on how to hypnotise people and a money making machine...none of em work :(

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20 hours ago, perdu said:

Yes I get you Ced, this seems to combine some characteristics of gel but when the rubber cap comes off it soon oozes up the nozzle

 

Good though innit?

 

Col I could be tempted to agree with you re: the diameters, not quite so sure about the thickness

 

But I don't have FOUR sacrificial Airfix Hudson tailwheels to snaffle from the company as official Airfix Mag editor

 

Alan Hall was quite a guy

 

I only have these wheels sacrificed from a Sea Knight, but I am happy to remake the whole leg device if someone can tell me how to get the wheels smaller without a lathe

 

Ongoing model is ongoing

Put a shout out in the "Wanted" section for four Harrier/Sea Harrier outrigger wheels Bill,I used 'em on mine and deemed

them to be about spot-on.

 

IIRC,Airfix 'Arriers come with two sets of iteriggers,one set down,t'other retracted.

Bag four retracted(or whatever's offered)off the Massive,quick touch of the razor saw and there you go.

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I do own a pair of bagged Airfix P1127s but I'm not disposed to scavenge outriggers from those

 

out with the file tomorrow then

 

Ced here's the Sea Fury awaiting love ...  and paint for a second life

P1110826.jpg

 

I think it was a PJM? moulding which I'm told resurfaced from Airfix with far superior decal/transfers

 

Because it was one of our charity comp entries I could only use what was in the crumpled box and glue and paint

 

After the comp was over I felt entitled to do it again, better

 

because of the comp I wasnt able to fill the wheel wells with Evergreen so I just deply scored a grid inside

 

no beggar looked anyway :(

P1110828.jpg

 

And from the front, not a winning model but like all Sea Furies she looks the part

 

P1110829.jpg

 

:)

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purely 'cause I checked this on a real Lynx this morning,

a two figure sizing for the main tyres, and a three figure type for the nose (which we know - a few posts back) is used.

When you have the two figure tyre dimensions, they give the overall tyre/wheel diameter, and the sectional thickness, so with the Lynx the 18 x 5.5 is 18" overall diameter and 5.5" thickness.  The hub itself is 8" and is not given in the size.

 

On with Waps!

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Well I had considered Wessexing today but with a new challenge to play with I had a little think.............

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And another

 

And came to the conclusion there was only one thing to do

 

Make Wasp wheels out of plastic like Airfix will next year

 

 

(OK OK I'm trying to up the ante here, don't moan)

 

Sized at 15 inches

 

divided by seventy two

 

gave me the almost mythic size of 0.208"

 

Search frantically for stock plastic tube at 0.200"

 

Find some at 0.193"  close enough for - well you know the phrase

 

I knew there'd be little chance of stock Evergreen at 0.208" but there's always madness in my method

 

Next up make a jig that covers the tyre width at 4.75"

 

That comes in at 0.066" minus a smaller than reasonable recurring thingy

 

to allow for size variation I made the jig work out at 0.075" which gives me a few thou to file away when I am building the bits

 

Then I sliced five (just in case) rings of the Evergreen tube in the cutting jig

 

Next move was to slide a thinner tube inside the outer tube, this was some of John Aero's lovely thin walled tube at 0.143"

 

This needed pushing into the outer and was used to expand the outer tube a few thous to 0.198"

 

P1110830.jpg

 

Getting there so we we needed an axle rod to fit the wheel but first we needed to cut the inner tube this enough to make the nave of the wheel, for this, yes another cutting jig sized at 0.057" (Piece of sixty thou plasticard, a bit thinner than spec. It usually is)

 

And cut out four of them for wheels

P1110836.jpg

 

When the naves are in with lots of Tamiya thin it was time to get the required 0.208"

 

A thin strip of five thou plasticard

P1110837.jpg

glued to the outer rim

 

P1110839.jpg

P1110844.jpg

Comparing the new wheel to the old ones and then checking the new sizes gives usP1110841.jpg

 

trim off and close the end up

 

And pop the axles in

P1110846.jpg

 

Most Wasp wheels seem to have one open nave and the other side has a bigger piece which I believe to be the wheel brake units so I made the naves with one side open and the other blank to the rim

 

The tyre extensions needed filing down in this picture, it's OK I've done it now  ;)

 

The wheels are usually bolted together with a series of nuts and bolts

 

I am not putting them inside there

 

sorry

 

I will remake the caster forks tomorrow

 

That's all folks

Edited by perdu
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It took about half an hour to find scrap to make the jigs after twenty minutes deciding on plan A or B

( B would have destroyed an irreplaceable first moulding of the P1127)

 

 

And yes two anna half hours cutting and measuring

 

And glueing

 

I wonder

 

 

If I always use plasticard bits from scrap how come there's always scrap to use?

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Great work on those wheels Bill, another one for the note book! Just a quick note on those naves, the Wasp didn't have brakes (:analintruder:) but wheel locks, they were either on or off and operated by (If my memory serves me right) a cable and lever assembly, with the lever in the cockpit. The inside of the wheel was toothed and there was a lock plunger that engaged those teeth to lock it solid. I think there is a similar system on the lynx (naval kind not the army skids!). You wont be able to tell this as the unit is enclosed and just looks like a big disc of metal acting like a 60's hub cap, just a little bit of triviata :D

 

Cracking stuff!

Bob

 

PS disappointed we don't now get a tutorial on 1:72 1/2" AF nuts and bolts!

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Blimey Bill, looks like you started 'aving a go at some bead craft, then plumped for a 1/72 roller ball exerciser. Lovely stuff. Fiddly and a lot of faff, but worth the effort.

 

"If I always use plasticard bits from scrap how come there's always scrap to use"....mm I'll have to think that one over. Perhaps it's "evolved" from surplus milliput in the night...All that surplus milliput has to go somewhere.

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Cheers chaps

 

I have had a day off Wasperie and Wessexations

 

I thought but tonight I decided that I might need the later style black tac markings instead of the older less muted style

 

(This is a Wasp, mostly not exactly COLOURFUL after all)

 

I took a scan from the Airfix transfer sheet, don't moan, back then no-one called them decals, and put it into Paint Shop Pro to change the whites to black which seems to be all that happened to the tail rotor warning arrows

 

(Many of the museum aircraft in the tactical scheme have white showing through the black letters and outlines that were originally white)

 

PSP in the very old, very free version (old computer mag give away program) I have there can be an issue with lengthening after working on items so after I got it black enough which entails leaving some of the white undercolour showing as per the real thing I introduced it into an equally old version of Photoshop 5 to resize it (PS is an easier to get right resizer so I tend to use two very old programs to save me buying anything when getting the printing right

 

So if anyone might need the revised version here it is

 

Full acknowlegment to the original artwork by Airfix at Haldane Place in  c.1965

scoutdecalsheetafx4crop2.jpg

If you use it in MS Word you can resize this image to the exact size you need with the push/pull handles on every image selection box

 

This is deliberately as worn as the examples in the Walkarounds and museums

 

I am now devoting a little time to the STGB that expires in about five weeks, I think I'll be pushing it to finish the Wessex that quickly

 

:)

 

I appreciate that collecting Wasping stickers might seem a tad futile but mark my words, not only will Colin get the Freightdog wasp on the stalls next year, Airfix will be planning to gazump me already

 

You mark my words I say, you may need different DANGER marks

 

;)

 

By the way I use both programs because PSP5 has the facility to draw straight lines in any colour you want, ideal for lettering and framing, PS doesn't have a straight line facilityin my version so PSP is more user friendly


PS does have very good 'other controls' so being old and idle I combine 'em both rather than waste precious time relearning stuff, I know I'm too old for these days  :)

 

Too mean to buy any new programs too  ;) 

Edited by perdu
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1 hour ago, perdu said:

Too mean to buy any new programs too

 

me too.  I usually get around it by buying an older version a couple of releases behind curent.  I got PSP X3 for about $12 - unfortunately, by that time Corel had got their hands on it and ruined a perfectly good program.

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1 hour ago, perdu said:

 

 

I am now devoting a little time to the STGB that expires in about five weeks, I think I'll be pushing it to finish the Wessex that quickly

 

5 weeks! Bugger need to pull my finger out!

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