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paint on canopies your advice?


AndrewCJ50

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You could try scratching it of with a toothpick or a sharpened piece of sprue it shouldn't scratch part as long as it's softer than it

I normally do so and it always work well

Edited by Levin
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Hello,Andrew - Our friends Levin and GrahamT are totally correct in their recommendations.I usually dip the cocktail stick in a drop of the relevant paint thinner beforehand. This may help to soften any excess paint that may prove a little more stubborn to move.Good luck with it.All the best,Paul.

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I don't know how relevant this is or if this product, or something similar is even sold, but years ago, I discovered Tamyia Polishing Compound was great for removing paint (in this case - enamels) from clear parts, like an eraser - without harming the plastic. More recently, I've also found that Mr. Masking-Sol.. Gunze's liquid decal mask) does much the same thing ... or you can always try a flat toothpick and rub it off, which works fine for me --- that is if the area in question is accessible..

Scott

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I use Revell paint remover. It is very kind to transparent parts and removes Tamiya and Alclad primers as well as most acrylics. Never tried it on enamels, though.

Hth,

Tom.

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Hardly anything new, but here it goes ... Owen cleaner for enamels, but only on fairly large areas. Toothpick for spots or small areas and if that does not work, increasingly finer grades of sand paper and than a coat of floor polish. Modelling knife blade and floor polish for heavy frame transparencies, unsuitable for sand paper technique. As a precaution, a friend of mine usually covers transparencies with a coat of floor polish before painting frames. According to him that eases removal of unwanted paint with a toothpick. Cheers

Jure

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Micro Mesh would work well. For future reference, I would dip the part in Kleer (and let dry) prior to any painting. That way if you do mess up the paint work, you can just soak the part in household ammonia and the Kleer and paint will come off (I let mine sit overnight) with no sanding required. Dip the part in Kleer again, then try your paint work again.

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Micro Mesh would work well. For future reference, I would dip the part in Kleer (and let dry) prior to any painting. That way if you do mess up the paint work, you can just soak the part in household ammonia and the Kleer and paint will come off (I let mine sit overnight) with no sanding required. Dip the part in Kleer again, then try your paint work again.

After a particularly irritating masking failure on a rather complex piece of canopy glazing that required the use of a very sharp knife, various grades of fine abrasives and a LOT of swearing I now use the technique described by Don above. By a strange quirk of fate, no paint has managed to slip under my masking recently. The question this raises is whether this is a coincidence or just malicious paint realising I have found a way to beat it so there is no point in trying anymore?

Cheers

DC

Edit because I can't type in the morning

Edited by DaveCromie
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While this does seem a bit expensive, I think this set is worth getting:

http://www.micromark.com/micro-mesh-finishing-kit,7601.html

This is a worthy alternative:

http://www.micromark.com/soft-touch-sanding-and-polishing-pad-set-set-of-6,7787.html

If you use them wet for primarily canopy repairs and sanding for Natural Metal finishes, they'll last for years. You can also use them to polish paint, but that may decrease their lives by the buildup of paint.

Edited by Don McIntyre
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If there is a lot of paint to remove, Tamiya lacquer thinner is cool enough that it doesn't melt plastic. I used it to strip the paint from some F-4 canopies that I had salvaged.

You do need to give them a quick wipe with a fine polishing compound to remove the last bit of residue.

IMG_20150319_214315.jpg

IMG_20150319_214723.jpg

As always, try it on a scrap piece first just in case.

Carl

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My go-to is a cocktail stick, cut to a chisel edge. Micro-mesh is my next step, starting at about the 4000 grade and working up to 12000. A coat of Klear at the end covers a multitude of sins.

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A bit late for you, but I've found that a coat of Future after masking but before painting works wonders. The clear coat fills up most of the little spots where the tape hasn't gone down as well as it should, and the paint tends to stay where it's meant to go.

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I use Mr color lacquer thinner in most cases. I have found that it does not attack MOST clear parts, by testing on a piece of the sprue you can make sure that your particular part will be ok. Using a cotton swab (or better still one of those very fine pointed ones made for modelling) you can just soak the canopy and the paint will come off easily.

This has worked for me for Gunze lacquers, Tamiya, Humbrol, Revell and Model Master enamels.

Even though Tamiya lacquer thinners seems to be the same, it seems to cloud clear parts

Test before you try it, but it has saved me a number of times

Cheers

Les

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This is an old post of my He-111 build, (sorry) but post #35 has info on dealing with acrylic paint, future and flat coat on a canopy - maybe it could help? By the way, you never mentioned what kind of paint and primer you used.

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234956585-148-monogram-he-111h-2/page-2?hl=111h-2

Edited by Tail-Dragon
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On 13/09/2016 at 5:03 AM, Tail-Dragon said:

This is an old post of my He-111 build, (sorry) but post #35 has info on dealing with acrylic paint, future and flat coat on a canopy - maybe it could help? By the way, you never mentioned what kind of paint and primer you used.

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234956585-148-monogram-he-111h-2/page-2?hl=111h-2

 

That is a great looking He-111! and you couldn't tell that you had to restore a window you missed masking off.

 

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