AndrewCJ50 Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 What do you guys do when paint has bled onto your canopies? In my case a Dakota astrodome Should I buy a micro mesh sanding kit What would you do? Andrew 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Levin Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 (edited) You could try scratching it of with a toothpick or a sharpened piece of sprue it shouldn't scratch part as long as it's softer than it I normally do so and it always work well Edited September 9, 2016 by Levin 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham T Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 Yes what Levin said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcdonnell Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 Hello,Andrew - Our friends Levin and GrahamT are totally correct in their recommendations.I usually dip the cocktail stick in a drop of the relevant paint thinner beforehand. This may help to soften any excess paint that may prove a little more stubborn to move.Good luck with it.All the best,Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Hemsley Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 I don't know how relevant this is or if this product, or something similar is even sold, but years ago, I discovered Tamyia Polishing Compound was great for removing paint (in this case - enamels) from clear parts, like an eraser - without harming the plastic. More recently, I've also found that Mr. Masking-Sol.. Gunze's liquid decal mask) does much the same thing ... or you can always try a flat toothpick and rub it off, which works fine for me --- that is if the area in question is accessible.. Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzulscha Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 Automotive paste wax will also remove fresh paint. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewCJ50 Posted September 10, 2016 Author Share Posted September 10, 2016 Thanks Guys I'm afraid this time the tooth pick didn't work, this primer is very tenacious! Might look into this Tamiya polishing compound though, that sounds interesting. Has no one tried micro-mesh? Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomjw Posted September 10, 2016 Share Posted September 10, 2016 I use Revell paint remover. It is very kind to transparent parts and removes Tamiya and Alclad primers as well as most acrylics. Never tried it on enamels, though. Hth, Tom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Posted September 10, 2016 Share Posted September 10, 2016 A sharp curved xacto blade will work, just scrape it across the surface. Any marks should disappear with a coat of floor polish. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted September 10, 2016 Share Posted September 10, 2016 Toothpaste and a cotton bud (Q Tip). Cheap and easy. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jure Miljevic Posted September 10, 2016 Share Posted September 10, 2016 Hardly anything new, but here it goes ... Owen cleaner for enamels, but only on fairly large areas. Toothpick for spots or small areas and if that does not work, increasingly finer grades of sand paper and than a coat of floor polish. Modelling knife blade and floor polish for heavy frame transparencies, unsuitable for sand paper technique. As a precaution, a friend of mine usually covers transparencies with a coat of floor polish before painting frames. According to him that eases removal of unwanted paint with a toothpick. Cheers Jure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilneBay Posted September 10, 2016 Share Posted September 10, 2016 (edited) I'm with the toothpick faction or a match stick cut to a chisel point, but toothpaste can work but requires to be polished out as it will scratch the surface. Edited September 10, 2016 by MilneBay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don McIntyre Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 Micro Mesh would work well. For future reference, I would dip the part in Kleer (and let dry) prior to any painting. That way if you do mess up the paint work, you can just soak the part in household ammonia and the Kleer and paint will come off (I let mine sit overnight) with no sanding required. Dip the part in Kleer again, then try your paint work again. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveCromie Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 (edited) Micro Mesh would work well. For future reference, I would dip the part in Kleer (and let dry) prior to any painting. That way if you do mess up the paint work, you can just soak the part in household ammonia and the Kleer and paint will come off (I let mine sit overnight) with no sanding required. Dip the part in Kleer again, then try your paint work again. After a particularly irritating masking failure on a rather complex piece of canopy glazing that required the use of a very sharp knife, various grades of fine abrasives and a LOT of swearing I now use the technique described by Don above. By a strange quirk of fate, no paint has managed to slip under my masking recently. The question this raises is whether this is a coincidence or just malicious paint realising I have found a way to beat it so there is no point in trying anymore? Cheers DC Edit because I can't type in the morning Edited September 11, 2016 by DaveCromie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don McIntyre Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 (edited) While this does seem a bit expensive, I think this set is worth getting: http://www.micromark.com/micro-mesh-finishing-kit,7601.html This is a worthy alternative: http://www.micromark.com/soft-touch-sanding-and-polishing-pad-set-set-of-6,7787.html If you use them wet for primarily canopy repairs and sanding for Natural Metal finishes, they'll last for years. You can also use them to polish paint, but that may decrease their lives by the buildup of paint. Edited September 11, 2016 by Don McIntyre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FG2Si Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 If there is a lot of paint to remove, Tamiya lacquer thinner is cool enough that it doesn't melt plastic. I used it to strip the paint from some F-4 canopies that I had salvaged. You do need to give them a quick wipe with a fine polishing compound to remove the last bit of residue. As always, try it on a scrap piece first just in case. Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch K Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 My go-to is a cocktail stick, cut to a chisel edge. Micro-mesh is my next step, starting at about the 4000 grade and working up to 12000. A coat of Klear at the end covers a multitude of sins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Admiral Puff Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 A bit late for you, but I've found that a coat of Future after masking but before painting works wonders. The clear coat fills up most of the little spots where the tape hasn't gone down as well as it should, and the paint tends to stay where it's meant to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesthegringo Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 I use Mr color lacquer thinner in most cases. I have found that it does not attack MOST clear parts, by testing on a piece of the sprue you can make sure that your particular part will be ok. Using a cotton swab (or better still one of those very fine pointed ones made for modelling) you can just soak the canopy and the paint will come off easily. This has worked for me for Gunze lacquers, Tamiya, Humbrol, Revell and Model Master enamels. Even though Tamiya lacquer thinners seems to be the same, it seems to cloud clear parts Test before you try it, but it has saved me a number of times Cheers Les Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprue Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 Assuming the clear part has been protected with Klear or similar then for stubborn paint I would use a cocktail stick with nail varnish remover. Good luck Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tail-Dragon Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 (edited) This is an old post of my He-111 build, (sorry) but post #35 has info on dealing with acrylic paint, future and flat coat on a canopy - maybe it could help? By the way, you never mentioned what kind of paint and primer you used. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234956585-148-monogram-he-111h-2/page-2?hl=111h-2 Edited September 12, 2016 by Tail-Dragon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hovering Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 On 13/09/2016 at 5:03 AM, Tail-Dragon said: This is an old post of my He-111 build, (sorry) but post #35 has info on dealing with acrylic paint, future and flat coat on a canopy - maybe it could help? By the way, you never mentioned what kind of paint and primer you used. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234956585-148-monogram-he-111h-2/page-2?hl=111h-2 That is a great looking He-111! and you couldn't tell that you had to restore a window you missed masking off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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