Lee Finney Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Ok...so I'm not having much look getting new clear parts for my 1:26 scale phantom ll continental. Could they be made? And if so what would be the best stuff to use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shood23 Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 I have heard of people making lights from something called crystal clear from micro scale I think Shaun 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Check out little-cars, he keeps car head and tail light lenses in a multitude of sizes, plain and patterned http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/little-lenses-26-c.asp I use them on my 1/32 cars and they are the biz 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Never had much luck casting clear materials! I'd look for perspex rod in whatever diameter you need and turn them to shape on a Dremel. You can rough shape it with blades and files then work up through the wet and dry grades. T-cut will give you a perfect polished clear finish. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 (edited) I've used things called 'tear drops' from card making suppliers. They are little plastic circles in numerous sizes on one card, for a few pounds. Self-adhesive, domed surface. Great for car lights. The crude little 1/43 Aston below was built from a cheapo resin kit about 6 years ago and the lights are tear drops. Roy. Edited September 7, 2016 by roymattblack 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FG2Si Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Gaianotes makes a product called clear UV gel. It's a thick gel that after application you use a UV light pen to harden. It dries crystal clear and has enough viscosity to build up a concave surface if needed. I've used it to replicate the glass in instrument panels. This is what it looks like when I used it on my Arado build. It's applied over instrument decals. Hope that helps. Carl 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Finney Posted September 8, 2016 Author Share Posted September 8, 2016 Thanks everyone, that has given me a few ideas to try. My wife does card and jewellery making so I may raid her stuff to see what she has got. Might ask first though hey!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Finney Posted September 8, 2016 Author Share Posted September 8, 2016 When I get time I will share a pic of the model. I am impressed with how it looks so far. I have hand painted it but have used humbrol paints instead as I find them better. The conversion chart is a God send. I want to try airbrushing in the future but will need to practice first. That might be better for when I restore the dinky/corgi toy cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzulscha Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 Find a piece of metal tubing the diameter you need.. Press a bit of tin foil in the end. It will form a nice smooth shiny concave surface. Gently mix up a bit of epoxy resin taking care not to stir in bubbles. Apply to your reflector until it's slightly domed. Voila! A lens! Alternately do you guys get MV Lenses? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Laidlaw Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 This may also be of help if you want something specific and have to scratch-build: http://www.ratomodeling.com/articles/headlights2/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Finney Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 Thanks Guys. Sorry it's been a while but things got put to one side after we lost my Mum. Just getting back to it. This one has been very hard at times. It seems that every part of it is so fragile. I want to do the Revel Route Master bus next but I'm not sure if I should try my hand at airbrushing. I have had good results this time hand painting and I guess it's a more traditional method. Be interesting to see people's opinions on this. I promise I will reply quicker next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatW Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 (edited) Firstly my best wishes and condolences go out to you. Secondly if you have a Hobbycraft or local model shop look at rattle(aerosol) cans with either enamel paints, Valspar or Plasti-Kote they are perfect for plastic kits, also try acrylic paints by Humbrol again in spray cans. Go onto YouTube for info and also read the details on the cans. light coats at least 30cm/1 foot away to start with and let dry for a day or so between coats. You'll find that spraying gives you a far better finish, and don't splash out on an airbrush until you've got a grasp of spray cans first. I've cast some parts using supplies bought at Hobbycraft, so have a look /ask for casting materials and again read the instructions carefully before you start anything. You don't need to rush anything just take your time. Edited August 6, 2017 by PatW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bzn20 Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 Sorry to hear about your Mum Lee This seems a bit silly now but Clear plastic bubble packs, super market food packaging cut that up as required. Cheers Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bzn20 Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 On 07/09/2016 at 11:01 PM, roymattblack said: Self-adhesive Hi Roy..Are these those jelly like things you sometime get on greetings cards, sometimes door slam pads on flatpack stuff ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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