Pocher Volvo F12 Build

[larchiefeng]

I usually will tape a part like that to a long piece of styrofoam and rotate the block to get all the sides and if I need the back side painted I'll just wait for it to dry and flip it over and shoot the back side. I keep a lot of different sizes of styrofoam to tape parts to or to stick parts or toothpicks with parts on and paint. Pretty low tech and not a new idea but it works 

[arni]

How about having tapered holders to stop it sliding down?

[Roy vd M.]

I tend to CA glue each part (large or small) in each of my builds to one or more skewers. Surely there must be a spot even on this highly visible frame that will eventually be plain out of sight (=covered by another kit part). For example if you are going to replace certain rivets or bolts that will be painted in another color than the frame color... cut off old bolts, drill new hole, use that as a hold for the skewer. Repeat on the other side. Don't use too much CA glue. 

 

After painting I simply detach the skewers by breaking the CA glue bond. You can thereafter use the skewer to eat cheese and certain vegetables. 

 

You can usually also use pre-drilled holes. What about these for example?

 

 

And/or holes to which to connect the diesel tank. You can check Pocher's instructions to see what the holes will be used for. If they will be out of sight, you have excellent holes for holding the part. If you use long skewers, you can put them into a piece of foam that you can use to turn your part around. 

 

I typically dip the skewer in a bit of CA glue, then put it inside the hole (or put it in and, from the backside, apply the CA). Then with an applicator (the Glue Looper) I add a few drops of accelerator (Zip Kicker). Within a few seconds the glue is set and your handle is made. 

Edited September 29, 2016 by Roy vd M.

[morty_3333]

Rich- How about wrapping the skewers with some tape to produce a 'collar' to stop item sliding down-low tech but should work!

 

Keep Sticking!

 

Cheers,  Pete

[rjfk2002]

Thanks for all the suggestions.  Roy while I applaud your dedication to recycling, I think I will use fresh skewers for my cheese   I've spent some time with the instructions and Paul Koo DVD and it appears all the holes are used for mudguards, axles, tanks, etc.  I will try to use stoppers/collars first before attempting any CA.  I'm concerned about trying to clean out the CA later.  I know CA debonder will strip paint and can scar the plastic.  I have learned that by trial and error much to my chagrin...  

 

 

[Roy vd M.]

I never use CA debonder. If you just use a little bit of CA it will simply break off if applying a bit of pressure. 

 

Nearly every single part in a plastic kit has a little surface that will eventually not be seen and that doesn't need to be painted. For example in my current McLaren build I'll glue all resin bolts-to-be-painted on a skewer, using the bottom side of the washer as glue surface.

 

Here an example, my previous build (1/24):

 

 

Note that I chose each glue spot with care. Sometimes, unfortunately, only a small glue surface is possible, like for the exhaust manifold (left side of the picture). If handled with care, it won't break off though. 

 

This having said, to each their own methods and what works perfectly well for me doesn't work for others. I know for sure that I won't be able to work like many armour modelers do, glueing all parts together and thereafter painting them. I'm just not that good, my hands start shaking at the mere thought of having to detail-paint like that... 

Whichever method you choose, I'm more than interested in your next build steps. It's a rare topic to cover a static 1/8 truck build and a great design at that!

[rjfk2002]

Roy thanks for the helpful advice and picture. I see what you mean now. I will have to test this out. 

 

I will post a more thorough update this weekend. The frame painting is complete now and I will show a preview of some fittings I want to scratch build. I am not pleased with the molded details and hope I can do better. 

[Roy vd M.]

I found better pictures, showing a bit better what I intend to say. 

 

Only intended for clarification purposes, don't want to hijack your thread...! 

 

1. Here all parts of a 1/24 Krupp Titan engine are glued to skewers. Many modelers don't like to use that many single parts but I like to work like that. Every skewer is glued to a spot that won't be seen eventually. 

 

2. Some parts are almost identical but not quite. The skewers can then act as info sheet; simply code them.

 

 

Don't mind the question marks on some skewers. I deny any and all allegations that I don't know what I'm doing

 

3. Priming.

 

 

4. Painting. Although a very small glue surface, they are still in place! On rare occasions the glue breaks too early. It's a matter of re-glueing. 

 

 

5. Masking + airbrushing another color and techniques like salt method weathering are possible with the skewers in place. You wont' ever have to touch the part.

 

 

6. Result before further weathering. The skewer has (only now) been broken off.

 

 

Again, just for clarification purposes. Now I'll keep quiet and watch your undoubtedly great progress in this build. 

[rjfk2002]

Thanks for sharing all this. It's very helpful. Pictures are worth a thousand words! I like your coding system on the skewers - but that's a good idea. I like the weathering in the last pic. I will have to pick your brain on that eventually. 

 

I have made some progress and plan to do a much bigger update in the coming days. 

[rjfk2002]

Paint Eater

 

2 cans of Duplicolor later, the frame is now painted.  This thing just eats paint.  There are lots of "nooks and crannies" to deal with.  Plus both sides need to be painted as the inside of the frame is visible. There is a metal rail that fits along the back of the plastic frame.  As part of the priming/painting process I tried to line up the holes in the metal frame with the holes in the plastic.  The worst fit was the front where the cab is hinged to the frame.  The metal required quite a bit of filing to get the alignment right.  The holes weren't that far off, the metal was just really strong.  Here is the assembled frame next to the Bugatti.  

Frame painted, on Flickr

 

 

  

The grey area on the end was left unpainted intentionally.  There is a plastic cap that goes on the end.  Both it and the end of the frame required a lot of sanding to fit.  Next up will be the axles... 

Edited August 27, 2017 by rjfk2002

[Codger]

Sure...keep teasing us with that Bugatti.....

[rjfk2002]

Trust me the bug sits there mocking me everyday   I need to get my painting skills perfected first!

[rjfk2002]

Axle Time

 

Putting together the front axle I can see the influence of the Pocher classics on the Volvo.  The axle is a mix of plastic, brass and stamped metal.  The leaf springs are built leaf by leaf.  Plus the parts don't fit!  Here are the built up springs 

 

The top spring had to be reshaped to fit inside of the longer, curled leaf.  It was also a tight fit to get those metal tubes on.  There is a small rod that threads through and is secured on both sides by nuts, it was tricky to hold it all together.  Here is the completed front axle.  

 

It's a bit tough to see but there are u-bolts which hold the springs to the axle.  The plastic spacers on the leaf spring were way too thick and had to be thinned to get the bolts to fit properly.  The brass wheel axles were beautifully machined by Pocher.  Unfortunately they won't be seen once the wheels go on.  

Edited August 27, 2017 by rjfk2002

[Codger]

Neat work Rich. Think it's sturdy enough to stand under the weight of the completed model?

[rjfk2002]

Mr. C you are always a step ahead.  I share the same concern and was planning on making some stands to keep the weight off the springs. The metal is soft and I don't think it will hold up well over time.  

[larchiefeng]

Yeah, I'm pretty sure all the Pochers need some stands under the frames just to keep the weight off of the wheels, axles and spindles even if they have metal frame sections. The older ones with just plastic frames are even more fragile over time. I always saw those stands in the kits and wondered why they were there but, even Pocher knew the models wouldn't stand up over time without them. 

 

You need a set like Keith has for his Mercedes!

[Dr. Fiat]

This is amazing, and what a HUGE model! It makes your Bugatti look like a little toy.....:)

 

[neilm]

Hi,

I build this one a couple of years ago. It's a real beauty and I do know that the front in heavy on the axles, so a jack or  jacks will be needed to keep it from sagging, especially when tipping the cab, the front mudguards catch on the tires if not supported.

I don't want to push in on your thread but you may be interested in my following post.

[neilm]

 

[Dr. Fiat]

Beautiful truck, Neilm!!!!  Gorgeous!

[mustang1989]

Good Lord!!! This things got to be HUGE!!! Lotsa detail on this one!

[rjfk2002]

Neilm thanks for sharing that link!!! That is an incredible build. The only problem is you have now opened yourself up to questions from me 😃

[neilm]

Fire away........If I can help in any way on your build, it's my pleasure. It really is a lovely build.

I sold mine to a bloke who had a real full size one just for a hobby. Incredible.

By the way, have you got  P.Koos  CD Rom. on the build.?

[rjfk2002]

I like that "my other car is semi."

 

The coke bottles and magazines in the cab are a really nice touch. How did you do the straps on the air tanks - is that paint or tape?  The white border on the front grille looks fantastic. Is that paint too? I am thinking ahead to how I want to tack those areas

[neilm]

Hi,

All painted. A nice steady hand and a tiny bit of scraping here and there to keep the grill line sharp. I actually put three white coats on to get a nice white line.

All the cab,s bits were from the dolls house emporium. 1/12 scale but nowadays most food and drink packs come in various sizes anyway, so looks right.

Hope this helps.