to prime or not to prime, that is the question?

[Gazmill]

Hi all,

After recently getting back into model making, I've decided that to do it 'properly' I'm going to use an airbrush. I'm going to be using thinned down Vallejo model colour and Tamiya acrylics, what I was wanting to know is, is priming absolutely necessary or will it be ok just to go straight on with the colour?

All help/advice greatly appreciated!

Thanks. Gaz

[kev67]

If you are using acrylics you certainly need to prime the model before hand, normally halfords, Tamiya primer from a rattle can or de-canted, or even better Stynyrez/Ultimate primer which can be sprayed directly from your airbrush

[Enzo the Magnificent]

Always prime!

Acrylic paint is very bad at adhering to untreated plastic.

It's best to use a primer with a bit of "bite". I used to use ordinary car primer but found that masking tape can sometimes lift the primer.

Alclad primer is lacquer based and solves all the problems.

[Mike]

Yep... anything you're going to paint should have a primer coat IMHO to even out texture, colour, surface adhesion, and also to find any blemishes you might have otherwise missed

[heloman1]

Not having used acrylics for airbrusing, I can't give a definitive answer. However after spenfding three years spraying RN airframes, we always used a primer. It keys the surface for the topcoat. In the regime of helicopters with their is magnesium aloy skiinnung, it was imperative.

Models are another thing...

Colin

[SleeperService]

Not having used acrylics for airbrusing, I can't give a definitive answer. However after spenfding three years spraying RN airframes, we always used a primer. It keys the surface for the topcoat. In the regime of helicopters with their is magnesium aloy skiinnung, it was imperative.

Models are another thing...

Colin

Use acrylics all the time in car repair and you have to prime or it looks very bad. If going over previous paint flatting back the surface works but there's still primer and base under that.

As Mike says it gives you a last check for blemishes before going with top coat. Always apply primer in thin coats it does like to pool up.

[Graham T]

Spraying mainly enamels as I do, I've rarely felt the need to prime in the past but I used alclad grey primer on my current project, the Fisher Sea Fury as it's resin & I was worried about paint adhesion. Still managed to pull everything up when removing some of the masking though!

[Gazmill]

Thanks fella's that's a great help! In the past I had always only used enamels with a brush (which obviously you don't prime).

Once again cheers!

[cruiserguy]

Hi Gazmill,

 

Despite what Vallejo say about the adherence of their paints to unprimed plastic and resin, it's essential that you primes your model before using Vallejo paint. I've been using it for nearly 10 years now, and have always primed before painting.

 

Best Wishes,

 

Will.

[Jerry V]

Their is nothing worse than years (or months) later having paint peel from your model and ruin all that hard work (yep, speaking from experience here 😭).  Any model should have a primer coat, regardless of paint type, but especially acrylics.

[Jerry V]

Also, the primer will fill minor (very minor) scratches and make any 'blemishes' easier to spot.  I prefer an automotive primer or one with a cellulose/lacquer base -  It will 'bite' into the plastic and dry to a hard/smooth surface, perfect for painting.  Most primers can be sanded easily and reapplied after you fix any issues.  Also, the primer can be smoothed for glossier finishes by polishing it. 

[jrlx]

I agree with all others: I always prime everything  before painting,  even cockpit interiors. I use Alclad's primers which provide a superb surface finish for painting. 

 

Cheers 

 

Jaime 

[Giorgio N]

Tamiya paint can adhere to plastic without a primer but there's no way that a vallejo acrylic will stick to unprimed plastic. Prime and you'll not regret it !

[mtchllro]

I normally use a Halfords plastic acrylic rattle primer (around £4-6) with no problem .

I have today though got a can of cellulose grey primer from Poundland.

So far it has covered well (on a yogurt pot) nice thin and smooth ,it has withstood the fingernail scratch test and the tape pull off test ( with Tamiya tape, generic masking tape , clinipore medical tape and sellotape) with no problems at all.

I will be testing colour coverage tomorrow (and more tape tests with tape being on for 24hrs) as I would normally allow a day for primer to cure.

So far for a nugget it's brilliant.

 

Edited September 21, 2016 by mtchllro
Can't spell for tofu

[Jusjay]

I've also started using halfords plastic primer and really rate it. Better value than the Tamiya and I'd personal say equally as good. I use Tamiya acrylics and always prime for info  

[Gazmill]

Thanks for all the help! I've got a tin of Hycote plastic primer from 'The Range', I'm just deciding whether to just use it straight from the can and do my priming in the garage or whether to decant it and put it through my airbrush and stay in the house!?

[Jusjay]

You might get better control with an airbrush but I don't know for definite as I've not tried it myself, just from what I've read. 

[Sgt.Squarehead]

Prime. 

[mtchllro]

On 22/09/2016 at 6:27 PM, Gazmill said:

Thanks for all the help! I've got a tin of Hycote plastic primer from 'The Range', I'm just deciding whether to just use it straight from the can and do my priming in the garage or whether to decant it and put it through my airbrush and stay in the house!?

 

I prime outside (depending on conditions and if the washings on the line) .

If you do decant and airbrush it I still wouldn't do it indoors as you will still get the fumes from primer.

I need to prime some 1/35 figures tomorrow so will try decanting and ab them.

[Skodadriver]

Many years ago a wise modeller said you should think of priming as the last stage of building rather than the first stage of painting.  That struck a chord with me and apart from ensuring good paint adhesion priming will also show up flaws that may not have been obvious on the bare plastic.

 

Another vote from me for Halfords primer.  I build 1/144 airliners and it works fine for me straight from the can.

[Pin]

I'm saying "no" to Halford's

IMO it is too coarse to my needs.

I prime everything, my primer of choice is Mr. Surfacer 1000

[Gazmill]

Once again, thanks for the advice! 

Just a quickie, is it ok to use Tamiya acrylics on top of Vallejo primer, and is it ok to brush small amounts of enamels on top of acrylic primers (cockpit dials etc)?

as previously said, all your knowledge/advice is greatly appreciated :-)

 

ATB Gaz

[Sgt.Squarehead]

Probably worth giving the Vallejo plenty of time to fully cure before spraying Tamiyas onto it, they're pretty hot and can do spiteful things to underlying paint at times.....Maybe set up a test piece and give it a go first? 

 

I've never had any problems with Enamels (or oils) over acrylics. 

 

FWIW