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Internal rigging (1/32 scale)...Who does it?


Beardie

Internal control cables in 1/32  

11 members have voted

  1. 1. Do you rig representations of internal control cables in your 1/32 WWI builds?

    • Yes always like to get as much detail in as possible
      8
    • Nope don't see the point
      3


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Hi all,

Just putting together the innards of a Roden Sopwith Tripe and a Special hobby Bristol M.1C in 1/32 scale and wondering whether to do the internal control cables. I have done it on a previous model but I am now wonder if this level of 'super detailing' is worthwhile given that you will need a bright light, magnifier and a strong desire to see some EZline down in the depths of the pit, Given this situation I was wondering just how many WWI buffs go to the lengths of representing these control lines.

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I suppose it depends if you can see them. If you can, it's worth adding but I wouldn't bother if you can't see.

Just out of interest what's the Special Hobby M.1C like? I ended up getting the Alleycat one when it came out before the special hobby one was released so I haven't got one yet.

Regards,

Mark

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Hi Mark,

The Special Hobby M.1c is a pretty impressive kit. I got it from Model Hobbies for £30 and picked up the Nieuport 16, Morane Model N and Nieuport 11 off the back of it. Internal detail is superb, even down to the tiny pulleys for the aforementioned control wires, photoetch turnbuckles, seat belts etc. (produced for Special Hobby by Eduard) and the instructions give good detailing for internal bracing wires on the frames (including etch turnbuckles) and control cables. It is not a Wingnut Wings kit but is definitely a step in that direction. The only thing I have to note, and this goes for the Nieuport 16 as well.( I can't speak for the Morane or Nieuport 11 as they haven't arrived yet) is that some small parts were broken inside the bags. On the Bristol it is the little individual engine pushrods that have bent out of shape and in the Nieuport it is one of the cockpit frames that has a parting in it, Nothing that can't be easily fixed.

The Resin seat is a beautiful piece of work in the Bristol kit. I have assembled a good part of the internal structure and it went together very well. The only thing to watch is that the plastic is very sensitive to liquid poly (if that is your choice) and if you are not sparing it dissolves rather alarmingly.

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Thanks Beardie,

I may have to pick up a Bristol M.1C as I do like the chequered scheme. The Alleycat kit is also really impressive too. There are other lovely Bristol M.1C schemes that would also look impressive as well and would certainly warrant someone doing an after market sheet.

Going back to the original post sometimes adding control wires that are difficult to see is good practice for when you add ones you can actually see. On my Albatros D.Va I'm building there are a couple of pulleys for the Ailerons which it would have been very difficult to add control cables to for little gain.

Regards,

Mark

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Mark, I have the chequered scheme version of the Bristol M.1C, as Beardie says, it is an impressive kit, especially for the money. The resin seat is worth the purchase.

Theres about 6 different colour schemes to do. Its not a WNW kit but, not far off and a third of the price.

Sean.

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I put them in as you can generally see some, if not all, of them. It's not always easy to work out what you can and can't see, so I do them all. Besides, I think it makes the cockpits seem busier when rigged.

T_Tripe_mine14crop.jpgT_N28_mine27a.jpg

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