larchiefeng Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 From a flat sheet of brass to this is quite a nifty piece of work!! I'm impressed that, it made such a nice piece for something under the radiator. You keep amazing and amusing us all. Great scratch building Thierry; we're all learning something each time you create a new part! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 ...can't go wrong with chrome. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 (edited) 3 hours ago, krow113 said: ...can't go wrong with chrome. Could you tell me more about that, please, Steve ? Edited February 21, 2017 by CrazyCrank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 CC; When in doubt ,chrome it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 1 hour ago, krow113 said: CC; When in doubt ,chrome it out! Sorry, Steve, I do not understand what you mean ! Chrome plating would it be more reliable than nickel one ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 Dear Thierry What an amazing talent you have. Combining incredible skills, imagination and craftmanship ! This car is going to be a legend amongst the Pocher Bugattis. Also what impresses me greatly is how Pocher builders are willing and able to improve so much and build truly amazing scale models from what i understand to be inexact and ill-fitting Pocher base ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 7 hours ago, larchiefeng said: From a flat sheet of brass to this is quite a nifty piece of work!! I'm impressed that, it made such a nice piece for something under the radiator. You keep amazing and amusing us all. Great scratch building Thierry; we're all learning something each time you create a new part! There is at least four other Bugatti T50 that have this "decorative plate" See this link: https://www.google.fr/search?q=bugat...r45uFC6cVa76M:. .Chantilly Arts et Elegance Richard Mille Concours d’Etat - Hommage à Bugatti And this one From: http://www.acam.asso.fr/fotos/fotos.php?ishome=3&dir=Bugatti&filenumber=65&filen ame=Bugatti-Type%2050-50T%201930.jpg&titre=BUGATTI and these one too, picked both on Automobileweb websitehttp://www.automobileweb.net/index.p...erusine&img=17 Roasdster Paul Nee So, we can say that a significant number of T50 chassis had this plate under the radiator's bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 1 hour ago, sharknose156 said: Dear Thierry What an amazing talent you have. Combining incredible skills, imagination and craftmanship ! This car is going to be a legend amongst the Pocher Bugattis. Also what impresses me greatly is how Pocher builders are willing and able to improve so much and build truly amazing scale models from what i understand to be inexact and ill-fitting Pocher base ! Very kind of you, my friend May I ask you a question, @sharknose156 ? I remember, if I'm not mistaken, that you've purchased a mini Lathe , Proxxon brand...Is it a FD150e model ? if so, are you happy with it ? is there prohibitive limitations for a modeler's turning job ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy vd M. Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 Beautiful progress Thierry, I really like the part you created and plated. Looking forward to attempt to do something like that myself. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 1 minute ago, Roy vd M. said: Beautiful progress Thierry, I really like the part you created and plated. Looking forward to attempt to do something like that myself. Thank you @Roy vd M. my friend for this kind comment Coming from you, I'm moved And I've no doubt about your skills ...it's a certainty you're able to do better (as I am now, after these tries) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krow113 Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 HaHa! North American custom thinking runs head long into European custom thinking.! Those are sayings from North American custom culture. Like: Chrome wont get you home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 9 hours ago, CrazyCrank said: Proxxon brand...Is it a FD150e model ? if so, are you happy with it ? is there prohibitive limitations for a modeler's turning job ? Dear Thierry, yes i have the 150 Proxxon lathe, it is a great little tool to get started. In your place i would get the 230 lathe straight away, because it can hold a 4 jaws chuck which is important for our kind of modeling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 14 minutes ago, sharknose156 said: Dear Thierry, yes i have the 150 Proxxon lathe, it is a great little tool to get started. In your place i would get the 230 lathe straight away, because it can hold a 4 jaws chuck which is important for our kind of modeling. Thanks for your answer, Sam... Yes of course, it's a good reason to get a PD230, and of course, the size of the parts you can work on. The price with accessories exceed actually what I want to spend for such a tool, but it is one of the larges purchases of this year... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 Hmm, the PD230 is replaced by the PD250, I think. Good machines, I'm told. If the 150 does not support a 4-jaws chuck, I would not go for that one. I think that when you buy such a tool, you need to take into account what accessoires are available (also for future use). You might want to look at a second hand Emo Unimat 3. Many accessoires available that can be bought second hand too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Every time I check in you are something amazing on this build Thierry! The plating is really impressive. You do that yourself correct? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 5 hours ago, rjfk2002 said: Every time I check in you are something amazing on this build Thierry! The plating is really impressive. You do that yourself correct? Thanks @rjfk2002 Yes of course ! I used a Frost electroplating system kit (Frost Restoration UK) with NiSo4 solution and Nickel anodes. The link to this website: http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-paint-coating-electroplating/automotive-electroplating/electroplating-kits.html 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Some seriously amazing work here. I keep looking at my Bugatti box and wondering if/when I'll ever get onto it. Your work keeps tempting me. Roy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 10 hours ago, roymattblack said: Some seriously amazing work here. I keep looking at my Bugatti box and wondering if/when I'll ever get onto it. Your work keeps tempting me. Roy. @roymattblack...you're too generous with me, really...It's very kind of you, but I'm not the only one here to deserve your praise. However, coming from you, I'm flatted. Thanks a lot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 (edited) 22 hours ago, Pouln said: Hmm, the PD230 is replaced by the PD250, I think. Good machines, I'm told. If the 150 does not support a 4-jaws chuck, I would not go for that one. I think that when you buy such a tool, you need to take into account what accessoires are available (also for future use). You might want to look at a second hand Emco Unimat 3. Many accessoires available that can be bought second hand too. hmm, sorry, looks like a double post. I just wanted to correct the brand name in the previous post (Emco instead of Emo) Edited February 22, 2017 by Pouln Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 Protective (and decorative) shield has been achieved and fixed in place underneath the radiator's bottom. hereunder some pictures of "the beast" Next step: It remains to scratch build a nickel plated plug for the starting handle's hole. Stay tuned if you like 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Thanks for the link, I will have to check it out. So far I have shied away from scratch brass work but one day I will give in and try it 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Great result, CC. Looks real good 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 My Bugatti's Features Exhibit Gallery has been updated on ModelMotorCars.com virual Museum: https://www.modelmotorcars.com/1932-bugatti-type-50t/ Many Thanks to Marvin Meit. If you visit it, I suggest you to take a look at all galleries, They are worth the effort 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 (edited) After having reviewed all my reference photos, particularly those provided by @Roy vd M., I decided to strongly modify the exhaust system, in its front and middle parts. The mufler had been already shortened, but the connection "plates" for the exhaust tubes in front and rear of it, that come in the Pocher kit are absolutely out of scale, and unrealistic ! Similarly, the right angled connections of the 2 exhaust manifolds on the principal exhaust pipe are very "comical". Normaly, according to my ref photos and with a T46 chassis picture that showed to us @PROPELLER in my Bugatti's thread on another modeler's website (ScaleMotorCars.com: http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/classics-and-vintage/115802-pocher-bugatti-type-50-coup-de-ville-surrection-16.html, post #232) , the exhaust manifolds connect to the exhaust pipe, following a curved shape, and not a right angle. And it is exactly the same thing for most of T50 chassis. On the Bugatti T46 the exhaust pipes run above the protecting plates (with louvers), and on the T50, they run under them Initially, as I've said on that website, I didn't want to modifiy my yet enhanced exhaust system, because it's a challenge and a lot of work. But I've slept on it, and found the means to make this job, without too great difficulties.. So, I've decided to scratch build all this small world, in order to be the closest as possible with the real car; I mean this one that is exhibited in Louwman's Museum. First: - The front exhaust pipe, connected at the front on front exhaust manifold and on the rear to the principal exhautt pipe, that connect itself on the mufffler backward, has been scratch built with a 8 mm copper tubing. To bend it to the right shape, iI've used my plumber bending tool. And I've got, step by step, this object: - The rear exhaust pipe,connected on the rear exhaust manifold and on the principal exhaust pipe, will be scratch build later, because a lot of measurement have to be done to draw it, once the front exhaust pipe is definitely in place. The piece of copper tubing I'lll use for that goal is the right angle bended one on the ficture above The pipe will be cut from the bended section of this tube, and will be shaped progressively Second:. The plates that close the muffler on its front and its back are disk-shaped. The mufler is 18 mm outer diameter and 16 mm inner diameter, so the disks will be 18 mm diameter and their indoor side will have a groove of 1 mm at their peripehry, in order to allow to slot the disk on the muffler-tube, as a stopper. I don't owe a lathe, but I've a milling machine and a dividing head attachment So, I've used this technique to cut theses disks: - Draw a 25 mm square on a 1.5 mm brass sheet - Draw the diagonals with a tracing point - at the intersection of diagonals, drill a 1 mm hole - then a 2, a 3, a 4 and a 4.5 mm holes - Thread M5 the hole ] - screw a M5 bolt in the hole and secure it with a M5 nut - Tighten [ - Cut the 25 mm square plate - Place the dividing head horizontaly on the crossing table of my milling machine - Insert a 2 mm milling bit in the collet - Place the M5 bolt between the chuck jaws and tighten them. - Move the crossing table in order to place the milling bit, exactly above the center of the bolt - Then move forward 1 mm (the half of the milling bit thickness) the crossing table on Y axis, . - Then move forward 9 mm more on Y axis - Move down the milling bit in order to drill 0.2 mm, and then turn the dividing head to excavate a groove. It will be exactly at 9 mm of the plate center. - Go on, following this step, moving down progressively the milling bit, until you have entirely cut the disk in the square brass plate [/url - Then, move up the milling bit, then move 1 mm backward the crossing table, and move down the milling bit. - Following the same process, you will cut a 1 mm peripheral groove of this side of your disk-shaped plate. And you get this: You'll have to repeat this step once more to get 2 disks Dry fit to test the plates on the muffler-tube: Third The connection between the front exhaust principal tube and the muffler, on one hand, and between the rear exhaust tube and the muffler on another hand, is done through, on both sides, two plates that are soldered on tubes and muffler, and bolted together. That means I'd have to scratch build, with my milling machine, four connecting plates. Each plate is a 12 mm square, drilled in ith center by an 8 mm hole, that will give passage to the exhaust tubes, and four M1 holes on the four edges. I've made a template in a 0.5 mm styrene sheet Then serious things began: Ouuuppps, too quick drill on the fourth plate Finally, I got this set of brass pieces With the muffler Dry fit on the copper exhaust pipe: Fifth One 12 mm squared plate has been soldered on the outer side of each disk-shapes "stopper" On the front end of the muffler, the plate is bottom offset. On the rear end, the plate is centered Then the 8 mm hole of the squared plates has been excavated in the disk-shaped "stoppers", using the milling machine It's necessary because, later, the exhaist tubes will cross through these two soldered plates Finally, I got this set of parts: Sixth Now, the two squared connecting plates have to be soldered on the exhaust tubes. This job cannot be made at the moment, because numerous measurement have to be done previously, particularly to determine the exact point of each exhaust tube, where the plate will be soldered to. So tries have been done. The plates that will be soldered on the tubes, have been bolted on their respective connecting plate on the muffler. The tubes have been presented on the Muffler The muffler has been fixed on the frame The rear exhaust pipe has been dry fitted on the muffler And the the front exhaust pipe And later, both tubes, on a bottom view A lot of work remains to do: - 1/ Scratch build the curved exhaust pipe that connect on rear exhaust manifold, and this is a BIG challenge. All measurement have to be done "by eye" (i don't know how to say in english "mesurer à l'oeil" ),and numerous tries have to been done. - 2/ connect (soldering) correctly this curved pipe to the principal exhaust pipe. Another challenge ! Will it connect with right angle, as on the kit, or with sharp angle, as on the real car ? - 3/ Determine how to shorten the plastic exhaust manifolds, to connect them correctly on the curved exhaust pipes. - 4/ Scratch build these connections. - 5/ Determine where to solder the squared plates on the two exhaust tubes and solder them. - 6/ Cut exceeding length of theses tubes - 7/ Metal prime thes front exhaust tubes, the muffler, and the connecting plates - 8/ Paint them Alclad Inox Steel - 9/ Matt coat these parts - 10/ Assembly the whole set on the frame, with removable connections and bolts - 11/ Repair little scratches on the "louvered" protecting plates, I've made during all these tests and jobs, despite of all precautions. - 12/ Take some pictures to remember the hard work Stay tuned if you like Edited March 7, 2017 by CrazyCrank 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy vd M. Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 Wow what a post and what a dedication! I like the way you've done this without using a lathe. The result is, as can be expected from something made by your hand, beautiful and inspiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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