Martian Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 She's getting better and better Crisp and even if she isn't finished, she will certainly be looking good enough for display at Old Sarum. Martian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 I agree with the Martian again Crisp, display So your admiring millions can get a glimpse That iffy rear joint with its Gator's grip film-flam, have you considered getting it back where it should be (with minimal size creep) with the basic adhesive then when it is where you want it and without moving it allowing a thin film of cyano to creep into and round the joint? When it sets it makes a very rigid but thin enough to stay hidden hard film that coats the joint with 'solid' Archers, really look the business in that application Niiiice 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted June 26, 2017 Author Share Posted June 26, 2017 The rear joint is a bit of an oddity, Bill. I am starting to think that it mirrors the real thing, in that it needs to be able to flex a little as weight comes on the wheels. The front joint is the strong one that holds the stub-wing in place (&, more of a point, is the original joint which fits i to a hole in the fuselage); the rear one is my own addition, since the connections back there are added representations of electrical and hydraulic pipes. Anyway, the Gator experiment is the result of previous cyano failures as the joint flexes. We'll see. To be honest, I am not losing any sleep over this joint, and it will be far less of an issue once I hve stopped handling the model so mich. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bzn20 Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 (edited) On 22/06/2017 at 8:13 PM, Pete in Lincs said: suspect that they are standard 1/8th rivets. From memory they're 5/32 SP85 Mush Hds . Its got to take some punishment.The blind rivets look like T/Pop Domes also used Cherrys or a type of Avdel that was new to me at the time called an MBC . That Bonding strap up the cab (left 1/4 down ish ) is held by two 3/16th Black Msh hds with washers under the heads for scale. Pretty sure I was drilling out 5/32s on the fuse to fit the straps. On 20/06/2017 at 7:37 PM, Ex-FAAWAFU said: Barn Door balanced, not glued. I don't know how many Sea Kings they built but when I was fitting the attch. point anchor nuts for the FOD (Your Barn Door!) I had concessions for every attachment point due to the drill off jig not lining up with the roof angles ! This was on the last 8 SKs built. I found some of these nesting angles,saddles and packers in one of my boxes the other day ! Edited June 26, 2017 by bzn20 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted June 26, 2017 Author Share Posted June 26, 2017 Got as far as the underside of the sponsons; probably one more session should do it... Port: Starboard: No, they aren't a mirror image yet, cos I have been applying them in a different order (and anyway, the starboard sponson has the flood light underneath, whereas the port doesn't). Tantalisingly close to a serious milestone now! [And how nice to see Queen Elizabeth with water under her keel. Now that is a true FBS...] More soon Crisp 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bzn20 Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 The more I look at the underneath of your bath tub I don't think there is a better model anywhere. As I mentioned pages back I worked on the bottom when it was turn upside down before the cab was stuck on top. Its so well detailed.. I think ,bet he hasn't done that bit and you have, the chines ,just about perfect. If you never make another model................ Tour de force............ Thats exactly what it is. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted June 28, 2017 Author Share Posted June 28, 2017 (edited) I am now reaching the point where I can no longer put off solving those little intractable problems that we all face in every build - the "Hmm, gonna need to sort that somehow.. but not now..." things. One of these is the flot bags in the sponsons. On the real aircraft, they are held in place by strong bungee cords; if the flot bottles are fired, the bags fill with air at a rapid rate, and burst out of the bungees. It is a simple solution - far better than the flot "cans" of the Wessex & Sea King 4 - and I never knew it to be a pain throughout my Sea King career. They were just there, and on the rare occasions when needed, they worked. Here is a real sponson: You can see that the bungee is pretty clear, and that the bag itself is a slightly darker colour than the restraining material. (Incidentally, it wasn't always white; sometimes the cord was dark). I have tried drawing the cord in place with the thinnest marker I could find, and that didn't look great (I did this weeks ago on the starboard sponson, so you might have noticed it in some pictures). I have also thought of gluing in place a thin cord - Uschi rigging cord, to be precise - and then using strips of transfer to denote the loops. But experiments with that looked much too crude. It is one of those details that needs to be there to capture the right look, but if it is too prominent it is a distraction. Newest effort is simpler; following on from the transfer idea, I have added a number of short sections of Xtradecal black stripe, the thinnest I could find. The Hasegawa moulding does have rather vague representations of the loops (which I think can be improved with painting), which helps to line things up. The front end and the lower section not yet done. Once toned down with further painting, I think this can work. Incidentally, I am pleased with the creep marks I painted on the wheels / tyres. These tiny things make a lot of difference, IMHO. More soon Crisp Edited June 28, 2017 by Ex-FAAWAFU 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xffw45343tg Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 I loved the creep marks too. Reminded me of a pre-flight walkaround. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bzn20 Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 Creep marks ,you've never seen an (active) aircraft without one ! I'm wondering about the heavy spot now ..Is that Red or Yellow ? I also can't remember the amount of creep before its u/s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted June 28, 2017 Author Share Posted June 28, 2017 Port flot bag bungee cord finished. Eyes crossed - taking Zebedee for a walk! Bungee cord: Zebedee: 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted June 28, 2017 Author Share Posted June 28, 2017 (edited) More random details gradually being ticked off the list. Firstly one that is at least connected to recent activity - the non-slip coating on the stub-wing has now been painted (Tamiya XF-69 NATO Black, since you ask). Happy with that: The others you might have to think a little harder. Firstly the Da-Glo Red on the I-Band transponder can that sits underneath the tail (& has been knocked off about half a million times): Then the start of the ECU blanks, getting their first coat of yellow ready for having home made transfers and other general knocking about. as you can see, one is already made up and the other still on the Eduard brass runner: the final one is not painting, but gluing - don't be misled by the Mr Metal Primer (which is great stuff, incidentally); on this occasion it is there purely for its weight. This is my home-carved (styrene) blade V/UHF aerial which will eventually sit rather prominently on the nose, being glued to its (PE, FlightPath) base plate. More soon Crisp Edited June 28, 2017 by Ex-FAAWAFU 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 How are you using the Mr Metal Primer Crisp? The reason I ask is that thus far, I have not had the greatest of luck with the stuff. Given the amount of Mr Hobby products that seem to get sold outside of Japan, I think its time Gunze started putting instructions on their products in English. Martian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted June 28, 2017 Author Share Posted June 28, 2017 16 minutes ago, Martian Hale said: How are you using the Mr Metal Primer Crisp? The reason I ask is that thus far, I have not had the greatest of luck with the stuff. Given the amount of Mr Hobby products that seem to get sold outside of Japan, I think its time Gunze started putting instructions on their products in English. Martian I just paint it onto the brass (after a wipe with IPA to de-grease, then air dry). At first I tried spraying it & it was a pain, so now I just use a hairy stick & apply it neat. Once dry it seems to provide a good key for paint. Not much more to say, really. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexN Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 All the effort on those lines of rivets has REALLY paid off! Superb! Cheers, Alex. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 2 hours ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said: I just paint it onto the brass (after a wipe with IPA to de-grease, then air dry). At first I tried spraying it & it was a pain, so now I just use a hairy stick & apply it neat. Once dry it seems to provide a good key for paint. Not much more to say, really. Thanks Crisp, I'll give it another try. Martian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 Herewith the aforementioned V/UHF blade aerial for the nose, glued to its base and painted with Vallejo 70.820 Off White (it looks less glaringly white in real life than it does in photos). The same off white paint has enabled me to fettle the Doppler aerials under the nose to a better state, ready for transfers: And I couldn't resist seeing what the ECU blanks look like in situ... Still, all this detail stuff has elbowed aside a very important moment in this build: THE RIVETS ARE COMPLETE! Later on I'll do a photo walk-round, complete with Before & After shots, but for now you can simply relax and thank the Gods for the fact that you will not have to look at any more "here's a mother line of rivets" pictures... More later Crisp 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 An interesting comparison of the Hasegawa parts I started with and where we've got to now. Port Starboard Underside 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71chally Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 I keep saying the same thing, that Sea King looks just superb, when you first encounter the pictures it's like looking at parts of the real thing. Excellent stuff. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bzn20 Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 Brilliant ! Nobody Can touch this unless Westlands get the SK line going at Yeovil again ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyf117 Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 (edited) Content withdrawn - I will NOT be threatened by a moderator, simply because I queried the actions of another... Edited June 27, 2020 by andyf117 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdave22014 Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 That's an amazing difference - all those lovely little bumpy things! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 (edited) More details. The Doppler aerials are finally done. The stencil doesn't actually say the right thing, but the distribution of words is approximately right, so it "looks right". And if you think I'm going to be letting people get so close to the underside of my Sea King that they can read stencils.. While waiting for various coats of stuff to dry I thought I'd move onto the engine intake blanks. Ages ago I worked out that the best way to do this was to cut the starter bullets (the aluminium things that poke out of the front of the engine intakes) in half, so I could insert a disk of plastic card rather than having to fettle something to fit snugly round the starters, which are not a simple shape. So I went to find the front half of the bullets, which I know I painted aluminium after I cut them. before putting them in a safe place. [You SO know what's coming next, don't you?] The carpet monster has been in my safe stowage! Despite extensive searches, I could only find one bullet. No matter; I'll just have to build a second one, which shouldn't be that hard. Therefore the odd cruciform thing on the left is a piece of sprue with sections of styrene strip glued into scribed grooves (OK, not strictly cruciform; the starter motors only have a vane on three sides). Once completely dry (tomorrow) they will be sanded to shape. The sprue has already been sanded back to the same diameter as the original part and given the requisite domed shape. The real things get seriously battered over the course of their lives poking out of the front of a jet engine, so if mine isn't a perfect shape it won't matter - just as long as it looks OK to the naked eye. These "little" jobs always seem to take up an inordinate amount of time, eh? That's it for this evening. More tomorrow Crisp Edited June 29, 2017 by Ex-FAAWAFU 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 Oh strewth, we now have to cope with mutant marauding carpet monsters that can get into safe storage...?! Do you think garlic might ward them off? More seriously good work Crisp, those before & after shots make your Sea King look more like a superbly built scratchbuilt than something that came in a Hasegawa box! Keith 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 Two starter bullets - home made version in reverse-action tweezers; original on tape. Once trimmed to the right length, I think that will be close enough for Government work. C 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 Crisp its always the tiny bits that take up the most time. Obviously because they are harder to work on but also because we tend to underestimate just how many of them there are to deal with and because by this stage most of us are getting a ta impatient o have the model finished. Ash how I know this! Martian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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