Pete in Lincs Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 57 minutes ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said: but changing "your" football team once you get beyond a certain point is completely impossible I gave up interest in football at about ten years old when I discovered model kits. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 I didn't Crisp is entirely correct (again) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 1 hour ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said: the seal around the pilot's window is looking very nice indeed... a little bit of muck 'n' scum and it will be looking very tasty 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 Nice neat work on the window seals Crisp. However you have my deepest sympathy/pity re being a Forest fan! Martian the Oxford United Fan (the only team worth the journey from Mars to see play) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyf117 Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 (edited) Content withdrawn - I will NOT be threatened by a moderator, simply because I queried the actions of another... Edited June 27, 2020 by andyf117 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HomerJ_757 Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 Ten days or so since I started reading this post due mainly to slow tinterweb connections and a diversion to Crisp's Sea Vixen! I have loved the banter (ex-Crab), the tips, the technical details of the Sea King and ASW'ing, but most of all, Crisps dedication to re-creating the airframe around the time of the incident, The support that has been offered has been amazing and one thing that has surprised me is that it is from all over the world and from all walks of life! Ian 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 Those window seals Mine will be having any old beige in my box with mucho added white to get faded cream I'm too old to start refading faded white from new Ian you have discovered how BM charms us all, everyone has a voice Every voice has a bit of knowledge Every bit of knowledge makes our community work For the best of it you need join us at one of our traditional bun-fests, Telford is high on the ladder Back to those accursed window seals Wasp has two, right on the nose with a thin line of sealant Beige it is Scared of it I am I am 'bricking it, the windows are screwed to the outside by the look of it... Anyway up, more of that in my 'tales of the unexpurgated' later 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moaning dolphin Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 Being an Ipswich fan for 3 1/2 decades, I can empathise with your recent experiences. I haven't been able to attend an Ipswich match for a good few years now and fear we are in danger of losing our identity as a club. We seem to have become soulless and on a slow descent into nothingness. Glad to see our points went somewhere useful! Bob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bzn20 Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 On 07/05/2017 at 2:37 PM, andyf117 said: talk about "pink mist" (Pusser's hydraulic fluid being pink)..... Its OM15 Hydraulic fluid in UK, mineral based. In a world covered in Skydrol 500 Hyd fluid types (UK DTD585). The other stuff which has to be the worst ever is OF4 Vegetable based, long gone, Javelins, Comets etc. I only saw that in training. When we used to complain about the VC10's Skydrol fluid the older hands said just think yourself lucky it 'aint OF4 ! Looking at that MRH pipe set up ...We P clipped those hoses to either hold them to a hard point and/or keep them apart and held to each other, singles,doubles, triples and quads with only one nut/bolt doing the job. The 3 and 4 way formations sometimes required five or more hands fighting 3 or 4 hoses with differing ideas of position, one slip and the bolt,washers and P clip combo shooting off in all directions. It was a thumb nail killer. I have a stack of heat spec P clips holding the power supply to Hut 104 (my shed!) Good enough for Sea Kings in salty air, good enough for me! Best of luck with the pipe system Ident tapes Crisp ! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gondor44 Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 In the picture below and listed as item 2 in the attached description the Hydraulic lines look to be rigid lines which means that they must have very nice precise angels and radii to them which I don't envy you in replicating. On 05/05/2017 at 10:18 AM, Ex-FAAWAFU said: I talked about 3 elements: hinge lubrication, blade fold hydraulics and blade fold electrics. 1. The hinge lubrication stuff is mostly silver (e.g. the 3 loops visible at top right of photo, above the blade which is mostly out of shot); incidentally, you can also see the reservoir for the hinge lubrication at top right (the thing that says "FULL - LOW" on it) - each blade has its own reservoir. 2. The fold hydraulics pipes are mostly RAF BG (e.g. the smaller-bore pipes closely clustered around the fold hinge in the centre of the shot). 3. The blade fold electrical looms are black (e.g. the wiring that runs from the top of the blade root, also in the centre of shot). Crisp As you previously stated, that if someone has worked on an aircraft they will know that aircraft and in 1/48 detail such as the above will stand out if not done correct. With that in mind I can see why you are intending to use wire for the Hydraulic pipes and their associated connectors T or otherwise, but what are you intending to use for the other two types of cabling? Gondor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted May 8, 2017 Author Share Posted May 8, 2017 @Gondor44, for the electrics I plan to use lead wire; still not 100% decided for the hinge lubrication lines. Anyway, I have been experimenting, and have reached the point where I have to stop because my eyes are bleeding! Not really, but working with tiny stuff is not something you can keep up indefinitely. It is also - and my apologies for this - bloody hard to photograph! None the less, I am pleased with what I have learned today. As Gondor says, angles are important. I will just emphasise again that I am emphatically NOT even attempting to produce a 100% accurate representation of the blade fold system. I think I'd struggle to get that right even at 1:1, and at this scale... What my experiments have taught me so far. 1. Scale or no scale, 0.1mm is too thin to work with - it's simply too easy to distort after fitting, which kind of defeats the point. 2. I eventually managed to succeed in soldering a test T-junction or two... but the ones I had soldered did not remain capable of having a rod threaded through them afterwards - so back to the drawing board. 3. However, 0.2mm nickel-silver rod is pretty resilient - in particular it seems to spring back to the angle you bend it to quite well (as it might be, after you have had to spring it into a drilled socket. This blade cuff / hinge fell off the rotor head of its own accord last night, so I have been using it as the mule. Not finished yet, but I think starting to look convincing from some angles (the second picture in particular resembles what I had in my mind's eye): That second shot is looking from the back of the hinge, if you see what I mean; the round-ish pin sticking up fits into the rotor head, so we are seeing it from the centre of the head. I think this might be feasible... (but I can exclusively reveal that it is NOT easy!). More soonish, though I am up in London a fair amount this week (still job hunting). Crisp 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 Those hydraulic lines look like the perfect place to use Albion Alloys Connecto bits.... http://www.albionhobbies.com/connecto/ Ian 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted May 8, 2017 Author Share Posted May 8, 2017 50 minutes ago, limeypilot said: Those hydraulic lines look like the perfect place to use Albion Alloys Connecto bits.... http://www.albionhobbies.com/connecto/ Ian Can't imagine why I hadn't thought of this before - actually, I had, weeks ago, and then promptly forgot all about it. Thanks for putting it back in my head; duly ordered! C 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bzn20 Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 1 hour ago, limeypilot said: Those hydraulic lines look like the perfect place to use Albion Alloys Connecto bits.... http://www.albionhobbies.com/connecto/ Ian Brilliant, I've been trying to work out how to make scaffolding from Al tube without soldering. Best I could come up with for a 4-6 way connection was a few Staples reshaped and pushed up each tube. I'll phone them tomorrow to see the size I need for a .24mm hole as I've already bought a days output of K&K tubing. Its one of the things that's been holding me up. I'm glad you put that info up, thanks very much ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bzn20 Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 35 minutes ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said: Can't imagine why I hadn't thought of this before - actually, I had, weeks ago, and then promptly forgot all about it. Thanks for putting it back in my head; duly ordered! C Have you got a link for ordering please Crisp? Can't find it on Antics or Albion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted May 8, 2017 Author Share Posted May 8, 2017 3 minutes ago, bzn20 said: Have you got a link for ordering please Crisp? Can't find it on Antics or Albion. https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 Test pieces look very good Crisp, maybe a couple of jigs/blocks to form the wire around might help with consistant shapes. Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted May 9, 2017 Author Share Posted May 9, 2017 (edited) That is the eventual plan, Colin, yes; these test pieces are being done to get a feel for what looks good / "right" and what doesn't - the distance from the face of the blade root and assorted angles make a big difference to the look, so it makes sense to use the test runs to experiment before settling on a final design and then building that. Having just ordered the Connecto in the smallest gauge available (0.4mm), once it gets here I will make some pipes to see whether it looks over-scale or not. If it does, I can still use it, but it would be more complicated. Essentially, the Connecto will replace the original plan of soldered T-junctions, which have proved just too small for me to make useable. Away from the head, the rivets are gradually creeping aft; apart from the boat hull & sponson, the starboard side is now pretty much done from the back of the cargo door for'd. [Let's see if anyone spots the (ahem) deliberate mistake...] The Connecto order has started giving me lots of ideas for how I might tackle the weapons wiring, too. This stuff: More on Thursday (London tomorrow) Crisp Edited May 9, 2017 by Ex-FAAWAFU 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bzn20 Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 20 hours ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said: C I phoned Albion today,2 rings, straight to Human, I needed to know the size connecto for my tubes. If you used their tube the tolerances are really tight . Mine will have 0.06mm of play but think it'll be okay. He was really helpful and took time to explain the Connecto system. If I needed any more info, please ring back, we're here to help is what he said. can't beat that for service. He recommended Deluxe Roket Plastic Glue AD62 for connecto NO IDEA WHERE THIS FONT CAME FROM ! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyf117 Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 (edited) Content withdrawn - I will NOT be threatened by a moderator, simply because I queried the actions of another... Edited June 27, 2020 by andyf117 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted May 9, 2017 Author Share Posted May 9, 2017 1 hour ago, andyf117 said: Mmmm, let me see.....rivetted across a window, have we? Give that man a cigar. Rivets across some window masking, so no big deal; they will simply come off with the mask. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted May 15, 2017 Author Share Posted May 15, 2017 More experimentation, but this time I think I have the way ahead identified, even if I foresee a fair amount of practice in my near future... The Connecto has arrived, so I set about seeing if I could create the T-joints that I gave up as too small when attempting to make them from scratch with tube and solder. It isn't easy, and it has taken me some trial and error, but... What are you looking at here? The Connecto piece is T-shaped (it came as a cross, but it is thin PE so very easy to trim a leg away) and inside the tubes; the only exposed bit of Connecto in this photo is the thinnest bit which is sticking straight up. The rest is three sections of 0.2mm I.D. tube - one section, on the left, pre-bent (to see whether bending distorts the tube so it becomes un-usable... which it doesn't), the section to the right straight (held in the jaws) and the very short third section sticking straight up. I think this could be made to work. The tube is certainly thicker than the rod I used last week, but I don't think it's so fat as to look silly. Thoughts? Crisp 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 As a sad Albion user I really like the look of that Maybe a small blob ( OK bespoke shaped) of cockpit glue over the skinny bits would represent the fastener/connectors Yes, carry on skipper 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 (edited) 2 hours ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said: Thoughts? sorry to be so late in the game here Crisp, but have you thought of using TUCONN Connector Pieces for tubing and rod from Uschi ? His version wrap around the outside of the rod and may help create the illusion of unions at the joints, and you eliminate the skinny bit in the middle. *edited* OOps ! just saw that they were for much larger diameters than those you are working with - never mind. I'll leave the link here though in case anyone else finds it useful Edited May 15, 2017 by hendie 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 11 hours ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said: The tube is certainly thicker than the rod I used last week, but I don't think it's so fat as to look silly. A bit of slight hyperbole in the piping department seems fair enough to me crisp; simply the modelling equivalent of artistic emphasis I think you've hit on the perfect technique there. Gonna enjoy watching progress (glad you're doing it and not me). BTW - wot's that metal block incorporating a ruler type gizmo at the top of the photo? Some sort of measuring/cutting/bending thing? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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