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Cleaning Klear from Airbrushes


Lightning1968

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I send a few drops of ammonia, followed immediately with laquer thinner (cellulose?). Key is don't let the ammonia spend much time in there as it can etch the metals of the airbrush.

Occasionally, if the Klear has dried, I get it apart and clean with a sonic jewelry cleaner, 3 times at 6 minutes with just water and washing up liquid. Then lots of flushing with laquer thinners. I hate it when I forget to fully clean after use...

Tim

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I use very warm water, almost hot. When I next go to use the brush I take it apart to check for any that has dried. If so then I use a good quality white spirit. Bartoline is my preferred choice. I find this method works for me. Other methods are available

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  • 3 weeks later...

I've just noticed this topic and I am curious to know why anybody would put Klear into an airbrush in the first place. I've only ever applied it with a cotton swab or a 1/4 inch flat brush and that's over paint which has been airbrushed. Each to their own but it would never occur to me to airbrush it.

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I've just noticed this topic and I am curious to know why anybody would put Klear into an airbrush in the first place. I've only ever applied it with a cotton swab or a 1/4 inch flat brush and that's over paint which has been airbrushed. Each to their own but it would never occur to me to airbrush it.

Just like airbrushing paint, the coat is very thin and with the self leveling properties it becomes very smooth. I cannot achieve the same with a 1/4 in brush without it going on overly thick. I've tried as I prefer the relaxing quiet of applying paint via hand brush.

Tim

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I've tried both Airbrushing Klear/Pledge etc... and using a wide brush as mentioned above.

I reckon I get just as good results, if not better with the brush.

Returning to the OP question - Lacquer Thinners seems to do the best job of cleaning in my experience.

Cheers.. Dave.

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I was advised to use an ammonia based spray but truth be told, having seen how 'gummy' Pledge/Klear becomes when it starts to dry out, I am loathe to risk shooting it through a £200+ airbrush and then trying to ensure all the residue is cleaned away afterwards.

As Dave said above, I share his obseravtion and I use a large (good quality) brush to apply mine in bold strokes and I fail to see how an AB could achieve a (noticeably) different result to what I can achieve with just a brush given its self-levelling properties? I mean, canopies are 'dipped' not sprayed with an AB and they are completely blemish free as well aren't they!

Gary

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I was advised to use an ammonia based spray but truth be told, having seen how 'gummy' Pledge/Klear becomes when it starts to dry out, I am loathe to risk shooting it through a £200+ airbrush and then trying to ensure all the residue is cleaned away afterwards.

As Dave said above, I share his obseravtion and I use a large (good quality) brush to apply mine in bold strokes and I fail to see how an AB could achieve a (noticeably) different result to what I can achieve with just a brush given its self-levelling properties? I mean, canopies are 'dipped' not sprayed with an AB and they are completely blemish free as well aren't they!

Gary

I have a Paasche VL for covering large areas. It's a hefty, tough piece of kit and it cost me a lot less than £200 but there's no way I'd put Klear anywhere near it.

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