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Glenn Martin Maryland +++FINISHED+++


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Very nice build so far. I am also an owner of the kit and also have it buried in the stash. It's sort of intimidating. How do you find the context masks? Is there some trick to keeping them adhered to the contours? I found they were a bit too stiff and peeled up much to my disappointment.

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On 11 September 2016 at 7:41 PM, modelglue said:

Very nice build so far. I am also an owner of the kit and also have it buried in the stash. It's sort of intimidating. How do you find the context masks? Is there some trick to keeping them adhered to the contours? I found they were a bit too stiff and peeled up much to my disappointment.

 

The Montex masks went on OK. The seems to conform pretty well. I did rub them down with fingers and the blunt end of a scalpel which probably helps. The weather is warm so that might help too. The two things that were a bit of a challenge were they're not always easy to get off the backing sheet and there is no stretch like you get with Kabuki tape based masks, whether they be Eduard or Tamiya tape. They also need to be placed in the right place as the adhesive is stickier and stronger. This means they don't move once rubbed down but you can't really slide them into place. So far they are working. Have to wait till they come off though. 

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On 11 September 2016 at 2:54 PM, martin hale said:

Crimping scissors as used in dressmaking and other handicrafts are your friend here. Different scissors give different wave patterns.

The airframe concerned was hurriedly pressed into service as a makeshift recce aircraft. Mission over it would have returned to training duties. There would have been no time to repaint the machine so Dark Green/Dark Earth would be the way to go when finishing your model.

Martin

 

Thanks Martin, never thought of crimping scissors. Have checked Mrs 825's sewing box but we don't have any in the house. I'm thinking of drawing it freehand onto Tamiya tape and cutting out with a sharp new scalpel blade. 

 

The Dark Green/Dark Earth scheme makes sense now. I think I've got the Sky coat on the front end done so should be able to mask up and start the upper works. 

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On 11 September 2016 at 6:02 PM, Grey Beema said:

I think I would go for a blu tac sausage down either side. Form the wavy line with the sausage and adjust to taste.. You could make a short piece of wavy card with just a couple of waves to help you keep it even..

 

Thanks for the tip which would work great if I was airbrushing. I've tried blu tac before but as I am a hairy stick painter it leaves a fairly noticeable ridge. Though a card mask could work but probably I'll customise some tape as outlined above.

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  • 4 months later...

It's been a few months since I did anything with this build. It's been sitting in a box waiting for me to finish other things, Christmas, New Year, rugby trips and a lack of courage about sorting out masking.

 

So today I girded up my loins and got stuck in. So masked up and an initial coat of Dark Green. And some silver for the inner frames of the front end.

 

IMG_1610_zpsk3yshjft.jpg

 

IMG_1611_zpsjham2g1e.jpg

 

I think the front end may need a little bit of filler and gentle sanding. But I'll wait and see what the first coat of Dark Earth shows.

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Here we are with the Dark Green on and the first coat of Dark Earth on. I'm not 100% sure of the front end but let's see how it looks under a couple of coats of paint. A thin layer of filler might be necessary. And it looks like it may be squint. 

 

IMG_1623_zps9renwx5l.jpg

 

IMG_1624_zpsneggsmit.jpg

 

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15 minutes ago, Procopius said:

It's really starting to look the part now. 

 

Thanks PC. It is a particularly attractive Aircraft and although not without its challenges this Azur kit is building up well. Most of the problems have been due to my ham fistedness. I feel I'm on the home straight now. Or should that be turning onto finals. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Been really busy over the past few weeks, combination of work, rugby weekends and an unexpected trip to Portsmouth as 825 junior got unwell and had to be admitted to hospital over the weekend. He is out now and back at Uni, and with the nights becoming lighter I'm getting some work done. Here she is painted up and the masks removed (I'll leave the canopy masks until after transfers and matt varnishing). A little bit of touching up to do but overall looking good so far. (IMHO). Unfortunately, after everyone's helpful advice I've taken the photos and the wavy line can't be seen. I'll show my attempt later once transfers are on. 

 

IMG_1628_zpslxlufsub.jpg

 

IMG_1629_zpseglacfxe.jpg

 

IMG_1630_zpstpmi3awt.jpg

 

Front end isn't brilliant but I'll live with it. 

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I've got  a lot done but am having problems with Photobucket uploading my photos. Ive had a go at work and think it's working. First here is a view of the wavy demarcation. Its a bit sharp and a little bit of touching up has since been done

 

photo Baltimore_zpsacuilozr.jpg

 

I initially started on the transfers and they were a nightmare. They are ultra thin and fold over themselves at the slightest whim. Once straightened out and put in place they do adhere well and pull into the surface without any setting solution.. Here is the upper wings done. Or it would be but Photobucket has only allowed me to copy and paste the same image. I'll come back later.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Here we are with the upper surfaces

 

Baltimore%203_zpstqg3gqiw.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by 825
Tidy up of photograph
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Here it is up on its wheels with the transfers on

 

Baltimore%204_zps8kinyasx.jpg

 

Not 100% sure about the nose, despite all the work on it. Perhaps it will look better with a coat of matt varnish and the masks off. And here is the underside. I'll live with the step as its underneath

 

Baltimore%202_zpsvjgvwhnt.jpg

 

And there's my collection of CMP 15 cwt trucks at the back. 

 

Only the undercarriage doors, the sticky out things, some matt varnish and this build will be complete.

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I've been having a terrible time with photobucket. It just wont work on my iPad anymore, which is my main camera and networking tool. I have taken to emailing the photos to work and uploading them onto my PC then adding them to PB and then updating my entries. Even them PB only seems to allow me to copy one picture before crashing, and deleting my post as it gets Windows re-booted. Anyway, little has been done over the past few weeks due to general busyness and scooting up and down to Scotland for the rugby. But here are a couple of photos showing the transfers all on. The close up shows how nice they look; it's just they are nightmare to get on with their propensity to rollover and fold up.

 

also the seam along the nacelle might need a touch of filler.

 

Baltimore%208_zps7zlop73j.jpg

 

Baltimore%207_zpsfhmkg3dk.jpg

Edited by 825
to add second photo
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I'd forgotten about this build until now. It's looking very good. There's often a sleekness to Martin aircraft which the Maryland certainly has.

 

1 hour ago, AdrianMF said:

I am curious as to why the "T" has a bar above it though...

 

Isn't that symbol used on aircraft that are outside the usual squadron lettering?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Have spent a lot of time fighting with Photobucket to get pictures uploaded. And have finally won. The Maryland is now painted, has a couple of coats of matt varnish on and I'm slowly but surely finishing off.the turret is complete, but I'm not sure how best mount it as it seems smaller than the aperture for it.  The undercarriage doors are on, and the prop blades drilled for a wire insert to attach the, similarly drilled hubs. Unmasking to do and a couple of aerials, pitot, etc, and it will be done.

 

oh and the tail wheel broke again and had to be fixed.

 

IMG_1667_zpslmu7ruvt.jpg

 

IMG_1666_zpsbnxflqmn.jpg

 

 

 

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Canopies unmasked and the Peewit masks seem to be good. Plane is sitting in an Airfix box as the tail wheel has come off, ....... again. 

 

IMG_1678_zps4xiw8uqf.jpg

 

IMG_1679_zpsd8nwtgld.jpg

 

Sorry the pics are not so good. And I still think the front end has a kink. 

 

Just the props to do. More later. 

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Done some work on the props, drilled out the ends and popped in a little bit of wire to fit into a corresponding hole in the hub. Hope to use this new tool but it seems really big.

 

IMG_1680_zps3zovdyk7.jpg

 

Had a disaster in that one of the hubs disintegrated somewhat. Cue for much muttering, fingers stuck together with superglue, small bits dropped on the floor and several false starts. Finally fixed and a piece of metal tubing affixed to act as a shaft. Will try and finish off later in the week. 

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29 minutes ago, 825 said:

Canopies unmasked and the Peewit masks seem to be good. Plane is sitting in an Airfix box as the tail wheel has come off, ....... again. 

 

IMG_1678_zps4xiw8uqf.jpg

 

IMG_1679_zpsd8nwtgld.jpg

 

Sorry the pics are not so good. And I still think the front end has a kink. 

 

Just the props to do. More later. 

Been watching this from afar and sympathize with your trials and tribulations. Despite some of the parts problems you have incurred, you have turned out a really nice kit.  But, I do think you are right as the nose is a bit off kelter.  Not real noticeable, and not real sure how to fix given this late in the game. Maybe, depending on how well the paint is protected with an overcoat, a quick dip in hot water with a twist back to straight?  Or, chalk it up to a prior mission where the frame was stressed from evasive manovering.  (Rather largish nose occupant thought plane was banking port when actually made a hard starboard bank, and slammed into starboard side.)

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I just caught up with this 825.

I obtained the kit in late 2016; like many here I find this to be a very attractive aircraft.

 

You have done a man's job on it with great perseverance. The front transparency assembly appears to be the main area that has fought and crikey, how it has fought!

 

It looks like it may still be a little skewed to starboard.

 

I know we all understand that you may want to leave it alone: but just in case it's starts to grate; a possible solution.

 

The RB productions nano-saws are quite cheap and very useful. I wouldn't have believed quite how useful until I bought a set on @CedB's recommendation.

 

It should/may be possible by using one of these to cut at the back of the whole nose transparency assembly; maybe just the starboard half (or cut it all off if easier).

 

Then place a plastic card shim on the starboard side of the fuselage to rectify the nose transparency angle. From here (just 11,700 or so miles away) it looks around 1.5°.

 

Otherwise your explanation of a crew member bouncing of the side frame on a tricky landing is quite feasible, and highly amusing :D!

 

Lovely job on a nice aircraft

:goodjob: 

 

All the best

TonyT

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