rammius Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 Hello together, maybe you can help me, I used Mr Masking Neo over a painted surface (Mr Hobby acrylics) and after I removed it some paint peeled off or the surface was damaged. Also I used Patafix on the same part and the result was the same, damaged surface. I primed my parts with Mr Surface 1000 and the paint was thinned using Mr Color leveling thinner Am I doing something wrong ? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 Normally these paints and the Mr Surfacer are bomb proof with regard to this.Did you wipe down the plastic to de-grease it before priming as it looks like the primer didn't get to bite into the plastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomjw Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 Wot Colin said. I use IPA to decrease prior to priming. Gunze paints are awesome, so stick with them if you can. Cheers, Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Moore Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 I'd agree with Colin. Gunze paints are usually very resistant, especially if they're thinned with leveling thinner. Did the primer lift as well as the top coat? If it did I'd say that Colin was right that it was probably grease or some other contaminant on the plastic. If it was only the top coat that lifted, I don't know what would have caused it. Gunze paints do become touch dry quite fast, especially with leveler thinner, but it's always a good idea to give them 24 hours to fully cure before doing any major masking. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenshirt Posted July 13, 2016 Share Posted July 13, 2016 Some masking fluids contain ammonia, which makes the mask work great with water based acrylics, but not solvent based ones. I've been trying several different ones lately with mixed results. One lesson I've learned: let the primer and paint fully cure by waiting 24 hours, 48 if you can. Easy for me as I usually do one paint session a week on a model. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted July 13, 2016 Share Posted July 13, 2016 I believe the Vallejo masking fluid is ammonia free, although it's a long time since I found that out, so test it first. I usually only use masking fluid for things like wing-tip lights, as I prefer masking with Tamiya tape or Eduard masks on occasion, as both can be safely removed after a couple of years stuck to your model. Masking fluid gets harder to remove as time goes by, so if possible, embed a little slip of paper to use as a handle before it sets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rammius Posted July 13, 2016 Author Share Posted July 13, 2016 (edited) Thing is, I was lazy and I masked it like 10 days after painting it, so this is even stranger. Check the pic below please Edited July 13, 2016 by rammius Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted July 13, 2016 Share Posted July 13, 2016 That looks like it hasn't bonded with the lower layer, or the paint has been melted by ammonia in the masking fluid, while the Mr S remained unaffected. What were you masking a nice flat surface like that with masking fluid for if you don't mind me asking? I'd be straight on the Tamiya tape for a job like that. Masking fluid is most useful when there are curves and small areas. Tape is better for flat areas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rammius Posted July 13, 2016 Author Share Posted July 13, 2016 Hi Mike, I was trying to create the inner contour of the F-15s vertical stabilizers. Basically I did the contour itself with Patafix and on the outside I`ve added mr masking. Ammonia aside, even Patafix (I don't know how you call it in uk) removed some paint also To be precise though, it was only one paint layer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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