Getting Things Aligned

[Gordon J]

Can I ask the members of the site what techniques they employ for getting their models correctly aligned?

I'm talking primarily about aircraft models and am wondering how one goes about getting things like the wing dihedral or the tailplanes perfectly aligned so that the final model sits correctly and is not lopsided in any way.

Do you as a modeller trust everything to your own judgement and mark 1 human eyeball? Do you utilise commercial or bespoke alignment jigs - I am not sure if such things even exist - or have rulers and set squares propped up on your modelling bench as a homemade visual aid? Do you compare your model to printed plans and measure everything to the nth degree?

If there is a right way of getting everything perfectly in line then I would be happy to know how one goes about it as I can then perhaps look forward to the day when I might finally build an Me109 that has both wings the same.

If this topic is covered elsewhere in the Forum then please feel free to point me towards it but I thank you all in advance for taking the time to read this thread and for any input you may wish to provide.

[Mike]

I usually use my eyeball and if things need tweaking, just use a bit of tape or some blutak pushed into place to support or push the part down. Check back on it a wee while later just in case it's moved, then tweak accordingly

If you build an Eduard Bf.109, you won't have to worry about the dihedral, as the wings are one piece underneath, so it's sorted for you

[The original Kit Builder]

Mk 1 eyeball unless I can't see what's causing any problem, whereupon the steel rule comes out.

[Graham Boak]

The eyeball for me too, although on older models with less positive wing location I suggest using a protractor to mark out the desired angle on a piece of paper and then fold the paper over to provide a check. Placing the model onto the board or any convenient flat surface will immediately show if one of your tailplanes is headed downwards - or skywards.

I thought all recent Bf109 models had one-piece lower wings, at least since the Heller kits in the 70s. If you are still working through a stock of old Airfix Bf109Gs I suggest that the wing dihedral is the least of your problems.

[modelmaker]

I was building a very old Revell Ju-88, complete with off set gondola, and in truth I always struggle to get dihedral correct, or just even, on these old kits. my idea was to go to Wilkinson, buy a tub of their very close Lego replica bricks, (all my kids old Lego went decades ago) thick and thin ones, and a base. you can, with bits of plastic for shims, lock the fuselage so the tail is vertical then adjust dihedral using blocks and shims etc below wings or wingtips as needed. you can also, on these old knacker kits (which I still enjoy making) use the idea in reverse to make sure undercarriage legs are vertical (or whatever required angle) and that wingtips are still level. when I can find the pictures I'll upload some, but you will hopefully get the idea, I think it works quite well

Edited July 1, 2016 by modelmaker

[Mitch K]

Eyeball, tape and blutak. I use the glazing bars in my windows as reference for right angles and for other angles I use adjustable bevels - either a biggish carpenters' one, or one of the two tiny ones I made myself.

[Greenshirt]

I find most kits naturally align unless I get a bit ham fisted with the glue or don't pay attention. Some older kits seem to require a lot more attention, but occasionally a newer one does as well.

I use my eyeball to sure it looks right.

One area of attention is dihedral of the wings. Sometimes the one piece lower wing fits nicely until the two upper halves are added. Then suddenly the wings are splayed out, telling me either I put the top wings on too far inward (those alignment pins don't always work for me) or the fuselage is too wide. I ensure the wing tops are properly aligned with the bottom by dry-fitting (no glue) until all the panel lines are aligned and the tips are right. Sometimes that means trimming off the locating pins.

If I've done the wings right and they still get splayed then my fuselage is usually too wide, usually because the cockpit pushed the sides out a bit. Again lots of dry-fitting of the wing to the fuselage, with a sanding stick thinning the fuselage to wing fairing the place where the wing top attaches to the fuselage) until the dihedral is right. Once it's all looking right I use a bit of tape yo hold the dihedral, then run a small drop of liquid poly along the seam...then the important part: Leave it alone until tomorrow. Let it get good and solid of a joint.

For the tails, I do the same but use blue tack or Lego to support the stabilizer until the glue sets.

For butt joined wings (each side is separate) or for a biplane I build a Lego jig, using modeling clay or blue tack to get the bits fine tuned, then put the liquid poly on.

Again, all aligned using my eye, not a measurement or special tool.

Tim

[S5 modeller]

I built a lego jig to align the cannards on my xb-70.

Kept everything nice and square, with positive locations. Using different thicknesses of bricks you can build it upto any level you need.

Matt

[Biggles87]

If I'm building an aircraft with dihedral or anhedral wings and straight ( o degree ) tailplanes I attach these first and then align the wings with the tailplane.

John