Testing old decals - is there a way to ensure they're ok?

[Raven Morpheus]

Hey all

I seem to buy a lot of older or 2nd hand kits, my latest purchase is a 1/32 Matchbox Porsche 917/10, I've also got a 1/72 Airfix HH-53 Super Jolly Green (although I have aftermarket decals for that) and a 1/32 Revell OH-6 Loach in my stash.

With the Matchbox kit I have to paint the body a silver colour (I plan on using Tamiya Flat Aluminium and apply gloss coats), however if the kits decals (Martini livery) aren't good I would probably have to strip the body - and I'm not confident of making a good job of that. I could wimp out and have the body white with the Martini decals on, then if the kit decals don't work I can just not use them and use a set of aftermarket L&M livery decals instead, but I'd like to do the kit properly and oob.

I've thought about scanning the decals in and printing my own (like I did on a 1/48 Revell Huey Hog build) but I'm not confident I can do that competently for this kit.

So, I'm wondering, is there a way to ensure the decals are usable? What should I be looking for to know they're unusable? (there's no sign of water damage or yellowing that I can tell).

TIA.

Edited June 18, 2016 by Raven Morpheus

[Space Ranger]

So, I'm wondering, is there a way to ensure the decals are usable? What should I be looking for to know they're unusable? (there's no sign of water damage or yellowing that I can tell).

TIA.

The only way I know is to test it, using a portion of the decal or one of the individual transfers that will not be applied to the model.

[gengriz]

I have used a lot of very old decals (40yrs+ Revell, Matchbox, Airfix & FROG) over the years, and normally if they look OK, then they are.

In most cases I have encountered 3 separate main problems; those that will not detach from the backing paper at all (not much you can do about this), those with a gluey "bloom" around them and those that disintegrate as they get wet.

For disintegrators, I have succesfully overcoated the decals with brushed on clear varnish (normally Humbrol Satin, but only because that was what I had) to strengthen the film before wetting. Suggest you take a scanned copy beforehand just in case, then try something replaceable (like a roundel) and if it breaks up, try varnishing the rest.

Unfortunately I have found the Matchbox ones are very prone to the gluey bloom. Its not a huge problem - it looks worse than it is, but can leave brown stains as it dries. Usually I wipe it gently after applicaiotn to the model (normally with a wet brush) until it seems to have gone.

Incidentally, the trick of bleaching the yellow back out by leaving them in the sun for a few days really does work.

Best of luck, hope it works for you!

FredT

[AdriaN (MLT)]

i just finished decalling a model with decals from the 70s (Airfix) with no problem at all.

[Head in the clouds.]

I usually use one of the logo or company decals that you sometimes find in the corners, it could say anything but as long as it is not one you will use it matters not if it does not work.

[Raven Morpheus]

Thanks guys. I don't like the look of them, on further inspection they appear to have some light patches on some of the Martini blue (like the colours have been lightened by water?). I've scanned them, and will touch them up in photochop if I need to and reprint on white decal film...

At least then I can have multiple goes at getting them right.

Edited June 20, 2016 by Raven Morpheus

[Greenshirt]

I try the national markings first. These are typically available as aftermarket, so if I can figure out how to make the decal work, even if I shreds a marking or three, I can always replace the national markings.

Tim