RMP2 Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 (edited) Looking for a bit of advice. Theres a 1/48 decal sheet that Im wanting but cannot find it anywhere. However theres a 1/72 version of it that is rather plentiful. That got my cogs turning a bit. So, has anyone had success with scanning in a 1/72 sheet, enlarging to 1/48 and then printing on decal paper? My concerns would be that theres likely to be too much detail/resolution lost both at the scanning and enlarging stages as well as the limitations of the inkjet printers I have at my disposal. Edited June 11, 2016 by RMP2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreadeddrew Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 Sorry,I don't have the answer,but I'll be keeping an eye on this as I'd like to know too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 Scan at the highest resolution you can and print out at the highest quality. There will be very little loss of detail as you are only going to 150% I have done decals from 1/76 to 1/43 for diecast vehicles. However; doing this is infringement of copyright and should not be done at all. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMP2 Posted June 11, 2016 Author Share Posted June 11, 2016 Scan at the highest resolution you can and print out at the highest quality. There will be very little loss of detail as you are only going to 150% I have done decals from 1/76 to 1/43 for diecast vehicles. However; doing this is infringement of copyright and should not be done at all. Thanks, thats reassuring. Copyright? Oh darn it - I was planning on at least 1000 sheets for ebay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viscount806x Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 It's very feasible to do. My suggestion is to sit down with plenty of time in hand and scan a few times so that you can keep adjusting the sizing as you need to. When you think you are there, trial a print on normal paper and set the printer to monochrome to save your colour ink. Just go back and tweak the size if you need to and note the settings on the printer scales. Once you have your size correct, you can then go back and rescan with greater resolution if you think necessary. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMP2 Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 Thanks very much for the replies, its all much appreciated. When it comes to cutting the decals, Im guessing its best to leave a 1mm or so gap from the actual colour (when printed on clear sheet)? And in order to avoid colour bleed and/or jagged edges its maybe best to use prints on clear sheet on top of white sheets (where possible) cut exactly to size/a tiny bit under size? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMP2 Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 Oh, one more thing - have people found more success by enlarging at the scanning stage or by vector enlarging post scanning? I doubt theres much in it really, but you never know and feedback is always good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unlikeKansas Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Also remember that inkjet printers do not print white. So you can either print the decals onto white decal paper and then cut very carefully around the images. Or print onto clear decal paper and have to paint the white parts manually Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMP2 Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 Aye, I am aware of the white issue, cheers. Looking to avoid any bleed issues or jagged edges as best as possible from what Ive read of others' experiences. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viscount806x Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination so maybe one of the others can help a bit. I've just printed as a normal sheet inserted into the printer feeder tray. I've tried a few different papers too and beware the cheapies. 'Experts Choice' works well but the size is U.S. 'foolscap' which is smaller than A4 so if using that, make your artwork shorter down the page appropriately. Varnishing afterwards is necessary. I've tried different varnishes. I had a car cellulose clear on the shelf and that worked well but thick. 'Klear' wasn't so good having a high water content. Artists Rowney 'Cryla' is good too but not Winsor&Newton Galeria, this last also being water based, not good on decal paper. Perhaps others can suggest more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 I'd be more tempted to use the 1/72 sheet just as a reference and draw the sheet from scratch in CAD (check out Draftsight - legally free for home use) - that's assuming that your chosen scheme is all standard geometric shapes. I used that to make all the decals for my Dauphin build The problem in scanning raster images is that if you enlarge them they can become pixelated - may not necessarily be visible in the scale up you are talking about, but there will be a slight degradation of sharpness however slight. I got the "experts choice" decal paper but found it to be noticeably thick. I have another batch of something else (can't remember exactly) but found it when searching for "thinnest decal paper" can you post a link to the decal sheet you are trying to replicate ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMP2 Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 Thanks Hendie. I think its vector graphic stuff that helps avoid pixelation? Thats about where my graphics brain finishes. I do have some very decent photo software and printers at my disposal though - Missus is a Media Lecturer - and I have CAD quals from 20 odd years ago... Ill look at the software you mentioned as I only have very old versions of AutoCAD here, somewhere, and whilst its ok for what its designed for it aint great for doodling. I have some decal paper too, but no idea what brand, will try to find out. Regards the sheet, its more specific decals that are on it - just wanting to make it clear I dont intend completely ripping off a companies decals! Just want me stickers. Its the Nigerian and Indian Jaguar markings that I would like to get by simply buying this sheet - https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ML72138but I cant find it for love nor money in 1/48. You can maybe see from that that there arent all that many on the sheet that would be tricky to draw up, the squadron markings for the Indian aircaft being the biggest pain I think, eg -theres a hefalump badge somewhere in there I believe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMP2 Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 (edited) For what its worth, this is the paper I got not knowing any better. I got both white and clear versions. Im yet to try it but try it I will and see how it works out. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-Sheets-A4-Inkjet-Water-Slide-Decal-Paper-Sheets-White-and-Clear-/141536001831?var=&hash=item20f433ff27:m:mNiPbIy_JInKMH6E-_KCTvA 1/72 decal sheet is ordered too (along with something else - One does not simply order only one thing from Hannants...) Edited June 16, 2016 by RMP2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 For roundels and tail flashes which have white in them I print the colours on clear d/f and put them over either white painted areas or blank white circles/squares available from Fantasyprint. I use a DTP proggy in which I can draw many roundels and size them to the nearest 0.01mm, to match the required size and blank white circles. I've been using cheapy d/f for a while and it suits me fine. I seal the decals using either a car paint lacquer or Humbrol matt acrylic varnish in a rattle can; I have both on the shelf and its just whichever one comes to hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Thanks Hendie. I think its vector graphic stuff that helps avoid pixelation? Thats about where my graphics brain finishes. I do have some very decent photo software and printers at my disposal though - Missus is a Media Lecturer - and I have CAD quals from 20 odd years ago... Ill look at the software you mentioned as I only have very old versions of AutoCAD here, somewhere, and whilst its ok for what its designed for it aint great for doodling. I have some decal paper too, but no idea what brand, will try to find out. Regards the sheet, its more specific decals that are on it - just wanting to make it clear I dont intend completely ripping off a companies decals! Just want me stickers. Its the Nigerian and Indian Jaguar markings that I would like to get by simply buying this sheet - https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ML72138but I cant find it for love nor money in 1/48. You can maybe see from that that there arent all that many on the sheet that would be tricky to draw up, the squadron markings for the Indian aircaft being the biggest pain I think, eg -theres a hefalump badge somewhere in there I believe. Correct, vectors are scaleable with no loss in resolution. Draftsight is an AutoCAD clone, so if you know how to use AutoCAD, Draftsight will be easy (same interface and same commands) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMP2 Posted June 21, 2016 Author Share Posted June 21, 2016 Thanks to Hendies help I have managed to get this far - Thanks to a "borrowed" printer from work I have prints on clear and white sheets to play with. Yay. Just read the instructions on the Microscale Liquid Decal film though.... it says to apply to decal sheet both before AND after printing.... is that really the case or will it work ok if just sprayed over the print? Any advice on number of coats? Im thinking maybe 3 light ones, leaving to dry in between? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 I only used a sealer (decal film) after I had printed - I waited a few days before sealing the decals. I took a chance and (if I remember correctly) I only did two light coats (thinned with acetone). Very light coats though as the acetone will make the ink run. The first time I did my own decals I brushed the sealer over the sheet and it was way too thick for my liking. You could just print off a couple of sheets and give the 1st sheet one light coat, 2nd sheet two light coats etc. - then see which works best for you. Nothing to lose but a sheet or two - or even just use one sheet and mask as you go The biggest problem I found was getting the best print settings - I found that what worked good for graphics didn't necessarily work great for text - I may even have used a word processor for the text - it was so long ago I can't remember. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhantomBigStu Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 Ive finally had ago myself at printing some decals, in this case some raf sky code letters and black serial, what will I use to seal them aside from micrscale film? Will Humbrol Gloss Spray work? I can buy that today, micsocale is proving tricky as I can't make up my mind what else to order from the various sellers who stock it, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMP2 Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 Cheers Hendie. Plan was to trial with that first sheet and trial on each set of decals on it - no loss if it all goes wrong as the green came out way darker on a higher quality setting on the decal paper than the "normal" on regular paper. Fun n games. Ive finally had ago myself at printing some decals, in this case some raf sky code letters and black serial, what will I use to seal them aside from micrscale film? Will Humbrol Gloss Spray work? I can buy that today, micsocale is proving tricky as I can't make up my mind what else to order from the various sellers who stock it, From the destructions with the decal paper I have, its just a case of sealing it really. Maybe just a case of experimenting with what you have first. Let us know how you get on though. I will do likewise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhantomBigStu Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 went ahead an brought it, gloss varnish worked fine, left to dry then came off like any normal decal in the water 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMP2 Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 went ahead an brought it, gloss varnish worked fine, left to dry then came off like any normal decal in the water Goodstuff. How did they settle down? Did you use any decal softening gubbins etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhantomBigStu Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 Goodstuff. How did they settle down? Did you use any decal softening gubbins etc? Can't answer that question as I'm a idiot, I should have used clear decal paper so they can't go on the model Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMP2 Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 Ha! Yea, its an easy mistake to make when prepacked decals are the norm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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