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Lola T370 - 1/24 - Spinler - Paper model


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Time to start my first build in this forum. It will be the Lola T370, a formula 1 car of the seventies.

Lola constructed and built that car for Graham Hill’s Embassy Racing Team, founded in 1973. Embassy Racing started with a Shadow DN1, driven by Graham Hill himself, but not very successfully.

Hill contacted Lola to develop a racing car for his team. The Lola T370 was ready for racing in 1974’s season ending up with one championship point with driver Graham Hill.

Being not very successful, the car was re-engineered in Embassy’s own garage. The result was the Lola T371 (renamed to GH1 later) debuting in the european races of 1975 season.

My model kit is made completely from paper, constructed and printed by Spinler (Czech Republic). It consists of 3 pages, one showing an assembly drawing with written instructions on the back of the page. These instructions are written in czech language, so Google translator is going to help me.

The other 2 pages are filled with all necessary parts, waiting to be cut out. But, first of all, I am going to make some copies to be on the safe side.

Thomas

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Hi Reggie,

I will print out the copies on paper with the german weight of 160 g/m2. I don't know how much this will be in british measures. Is this a download from the Yamaha papercraft website?

They write in their FAQ section: "Heavy, A4-sized paper (21X 29cm) is recommended. 110 to 135kg Kent paper stock (0.16 to 0.18mm thick) are used for the models on this website. As for the paper type used for each model, refer to the Assembly Instructions (PDF) of the model."

Hope that helps.

Tom

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Hi Tom,

I've been building in card and paper for the past 25 odd years and I've made a lot of posts regarding my techniques for building models in card, including increasing the size of the model with a photocopier, doing enlargements in black and white and building the external detail on, before painting, how to strengthen the structure so that it is much stronger as this would stop the completed model from twisting or bending in climates like those here in Aussie, how to build wheels that run true when you spin them and lots more besides, including the method of glueing your work sheets to thin card - Bristol Board (or thinner) or thin white card which comes in 6' x 4' sheets if my memory serves me best, tools to cut the card and how and to bend it, especially thicker card without creasing it - and a way of doing your card model building with your family, while watching TV, if you are so inclined, without war being declared.

I recently wrote about building a WW1 tank in card using a Polish or Russian card kit as the basis for it and you should be able to find it in these forums by looking for posts under my name, also examples of my card warship models for r/c - pix - some of my r/c warship models are 6 feet in length and entirely built by hand, by me.

I also have loads of digital paper models of cars and racing cars, including the one you have, although I'm not interested in building any for the time being, if ever.

brooker

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Card models are a bit of a rarity here so I thought you might be interested in the DBR9 I built a good few years ago - not wishing to hijack your thread.

I still have the files if you want a copy. It runs to about 6 sheets plus rubbish instructions...

I printed mine on thick gloss photo paper and then glued the sheets to thin card.

The clear parts were printed on inkjet OHP transparency.

Chrome bits - wheels etc - were printed on inkjet foil.

PM me if you want the Aston kit. It's 1/18 scale, so a decent size.

Roy.

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The first cuts were to be made today.

Starting with the cockpit, four parts had been cut, formed and glued together.

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@ Brooker: I will go through your posts and read about your techniques. Thanks for the information.

Tom

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Hi Brooker,

I'll keep your offer in mind and will send you an email soon.

Roy,

no problem at all. Those comments keep a thread alive. I continued working on it right now while watching the 24h race on Nurburgring on tv. Lots of accidents due to heavy rain. Pictures of build will follow tomorrow.

Tom

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Thanks, darwinism.

Well, the paper suspension... We'll see. :fight:

Anyway, some sunday's progress is ready to be shown. Mounted and preformed parts of the cockpit, e.g. steering wheel (rubber sealing, toothpick and cardstock part).

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Hi Reggie,

I will print out the copies on paper with the german weight of 160 g/m2. I don't know how much this will be in british measures. Is this a download from the Yamaha papercraft website?

They write in their FAQ section: "Heavy, A4-sized paper (21X 29cm) is recommended. 110 to 135kg Kent paper stock (0.16 to 0.18mm thick) are used for the models on this website. As for the paper type used for each model, refer to the Assembly Instructions (PDF) of the model."

Hope that helps.

Tom

Hi Tom,

that's perfect.

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Hi Tom,

I forgot to mention I always cut off the tabs and edge glue - just like you seem to be doing and I use PVA white glue, enough glue on each surface as you would find on the back of a postage stamp - you can always glue one side and allow it to dry, before glueing the sides which bond to it and attaching them wet.

Here in Aussie, with the range of temperatures we live with - I have to increase the strength of the overall structure, by cutting to fit and glueing 1/8" thick card internally, neatly cut to fit and glued over the total surface, so that my models are much more robust and don't bend or twist like a banana - also over bigger models, thin card is not smooth, but get dimples between frames and I really think that spoils the final look I wish to achieve.

As you have probably noticed, you can't sand card, because it fluffs up, so accuracy in all parts and fitting is the key to a successful model and I always start with the bigger parts and then make and glue lesser parts to them - I build small parts solid internally, as over time they retain their shape.

Roy,

I bought a Pocher Rolls Royce chassis built and finely detailed, from a fellow in Germany via e.Bay, the idea being that I could use it to kick start my Pocher RR chassis builds and to follow his assembly in completing my sadly incomplete models thus far - his chassis is absolutely splendid and he must have a steady hand and good eyesight, to paint all of the nuts and bolts a brass colour, highly detailing the chassis - it is such a shame that it will be covered up by the body, when eventually I build a car body over the top of it - I was thinking of having the body and wings lift off, but I don't really think that is practical.

I will take some pix and post them here - eventually - rather busy at the moment.

As a Pocher RR builder, any ideas on that?

Brooker

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  • 2 weeks later...

Lil' more progress on the cockpit.

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LolaT370_1712.JPG

I bent an ordinary nail to a roll bar and used foamed rubber for the head support.

Hi Brooker,

thanks again for your helpful comments. Sometimes I do sand card, after having hardened with CA glue. Well, and sometimes, it works. :winkgrin:

Best regards

Tom

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  • 2 weeks later...
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