Hobbyboss Soviet BA-6 Armoured Car. 1:35

[Shar2]

Soviet BA-6 Armoured Car
Hobbyboss 1:35

History
The BA-6 was an improved model of the previous version the BA-3. By 1935, the GAZ factory mastered the production of the domestic three-axle automobile GAZ-AAA. The Izhorskij factory quickly developed a new BA-6 armoured car based on this automobile. The hull, turret, and the location of ammunition, joints and equipment were essentially unchanged from those of its predecessor.

The only visual distinction that identified the new car was the absence of a rear door, rear observation windows and a running board in the rear part of the hull. Also, the rear track increased to 1600 mm (for BA-3 it was 1585 mm); the distance between the front axle and the center of the suspension decreased to 3200 mm (vs. 3220 of BA-3); the distance between the rear axles was shorted as well, from 1016 mm (for the BA-3) to 940 mm. The new armoured car was the first to use bullet-resistant tires GK (porous inner tube), filled with porous rubber.

Due to stricter weight control the mass of the car decreased to 5.12 tons without compromising any of the technical parameters. Between 1936 and 1938 the Izhorskij factory produced 386 BA-6 armoured cars.

The Model
Having released the BA-3 and BA-10 versions of the six wheeled armoured cars, it was only natural that they should also release the BA-6. Each of the three kits are essentially the same, with only minor differences. The kit comes in a top opening box with an artistic impression of the vehicle stopped next to a wooded area. Inside there are eleven sprues of beige styrene, the single piece body, one small sprue of clear styrene, two sheets of etched brass, twelve rubber/vinyl tyres and a small decal sheet. As usual for a Hobbyboss kit the parts moulding is really well done, with some nicely reproduced surface details, only a little flash, but no other imperfections and not too many moulding pips making for an easy clean up job. Whilst not a large model by any stretch of imagination, there are quite a few parts, many of which are small, so care with handling them will need to be exercised.

Construction begins with the modification of the two chassis rails. Each of the rear ends need to be cut away, and whilst no measurements are given in the instructions the point is clearly marked on the rails themselves. With this done, three crossbeams are fitted between the rails, the rear one provided in three parts and forms part of the rear suspension. Each of the two differentials are assembled form two parts, onto which the two axles are attached. The two part universal joints are then added to each differential, followed by two suspension mounts fitted to each end of the axles. The leaf springs are then attached to the mounts, forming a solid unit with the axle/differentials, along with the anti-roll bars. The drive shaft connecting the two differentials is then slid into position. The completed assembly is then fitted to the chassis, along with a three piece storage box and the steering rack gearbox.

The kit comes with a very nicely detailed engine made up of a two piece block to which the sump is added, followed by the cylinder head, crankcase, air intake pipe and coolant pipe. The two part bell housing is attached to the clutch plate housing before being fitted to the engine. This is followed by the fitting of the exhaust manifold various bits of pipework such as the exhaust pipe, auxiliary drive belt, cooling fan and the drive shaft. Rather unusually the accelerator pedal and clutch pedal are fitted to the top of the gearbox cover, complete with linkages and separate pedal pads. The completed engine/gearbox assembly is then fitted to the front of the chassis. The front wheel mount is made up of a three part triangular structure on to which the single cross-mounted leaf spring, along with its fittings is attached to the axle arm. Each of the two inner hubs are fitted with their ball joints and axle link before being fitted to the axle ends, followed by the steering rack between the two wheels. The front wheel assembly is then fitted to the chassis, along with two drop links, the three part silencer and exhaust end, and transfer box cover. Each of the ten wheels are made up of the outer hub and tyre, ensuring that the correct hub is used as there are three different styles depending on where they are fitted. With the wheels assembled they cna be fitted to the axles. The chassis and running gear are finished off with the fitting of the final drive shaft, and the rear suspension upper leaf springs.

The body assembly begins with the fitting of the firewall bulkhead to the chassis which has oil and fuel filters attached, at the same time the large air filter unit is fitted to the engine. The main cab floor is attached to the chassis, ensuring the gearbox mounted pedals are carefully positioned through the gap in the floor. The handbrake leaver is then fitted, as are the gearstick and gear range selector. Each of the drivers and gunners seats are made up of the seat base, squab, backrest with associated supports, which when assembled can be glued into position. The instrument binnacle is glued to the lower coaming panel which is then fixed to the bulkhead. The steering column is carefully slid through the hole in the bulkhead and attached to the steering rack gearbox fitted earlier, and finished off with the steering wheel and indicator/light stalks. The upper coaming panel in then glued into positions, along with eh radiator and front mounted scoop like panel.

With the above assembly put to one side, it’s on with the turret build. The turret is made up of left and right halves which, when joined together are fitted with the turret roof, rear panel, and front gun mounting panel. The outer mantlet is fitted with an moveable internal mount which is fixed to the mantlet via two trunnion mounts. The mantlet is then fitted to the turret, followed by the two top hatches, three eyebolts, periscope cover and ventilation mushroom. Before the single piece barrel can be fitted the barrel support bracket is attached to the mantlet along with a grab handle and two PE eyebolts. With the main gun and machine gun barrels fitted the turret is finished off with a small PE bracket which fits underneath the barrel support.

Finally, we’re on the home straight, with the fitting of the drivers/gunners panel, complete with four part machine gun mount, to the front of the single piece armoured body. The body is then mounted to the floor/chassis and fitted with the rear armoured panel covering the drive train/suspension. This panel is then fitted with the PE number plate, whilst on the body itself the rear access door is attached, as is the PE rain channel above the left hand pistol port. On each side of the drivers compartment the armoured panels that protect the underside are attached. These are followed by the cooling louvers on each side of the engine compartment, two spare wheel mounts, two engine access panels and two armoured radiator doors. The large wheel arches that cover the rear sets of wheels are each fitted with PE strengthening strips on the inside before being mounted on the body. The drivers and machine gunners doors are then attached, along with the roof mounted hatch and front wheel arches. The vehicle is finished off with the fitting of the footstep supports, with PE steps, headlights, with clear lenses, taillights, radiator cap, front bumper, complete with separate number plate, grab rails around the rear of the body, three piece horn and last, but by no means least, the turret assembly.

Decals
The small decal sheet is sparse to say the least. What there are, are nicely printed and if previous experience has taught me, quite thin. The turret markings, for use on an overall green machine, include a unit badge and the dotted line that goes round the turret top. Care will be needed for this, not only to get it all level, but doing so without tearing it. The other two decals are for the drivers instruments.
There are in fact three colour schemes shown on the painting guide, none of which are identified, but the first is obviously from the Spanish Civil War, with the distinctive red and yellow stripes in the turret, which have to be painted on. The plain green overall machine with the decal turret markings, and a striking three coloured machine, which I believe is of the Soviet Army.

Conclusion
There is something about these large armoured cars. They have an enigmatic air about them, as well as being slightly bonkers, as most of the interwar armoured cars seem to be. I’m currently building the Hobbyboss BA-10 armoured car, which is basically the same as this kit, and I can say that whilst it goes together well, it is needlessly complicated, with no short cuts available. That said, it does build into a great looking vehicle, although needing a big dose of patience and a steady hand.
Highly recommended.

Review sample courtesy of

[Panzer Vor!!!]

That said, it does build into a great looking vehicle, although needing a big dose of patience and a steady hand.

No good for me then

[AndyC]

Nice review Dave - I've got the Alan BA-10 which I was planning to do for the Great Patriotic War GB - however this looks nice. I'm with you though - these inter-war armoured cars are great.