sharknose156 Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Beautiful work Jeremy. The green comes out very well and your attention to the interior will make a huge difference i think. Did you use real leather ? Are you using the same green throughout ? if i remember correctly the outside of the real car is half covered with a very dark green leather or canvas ? Excellent work, very inspiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted September 5, 2016 Author Share Posted September 5, 2016 Beautiful work Jeremy. The green comes out very well and your attention to the interior will make a huge difference i think. Did you use real leather ? Are you using the same green throughout ? if i remember correctly the outside of the real car is half covered with a very dark green leather or canvas ? Excellent work, very inspiring. Sam, I used the same green throughout. Only difference is for the parts that were supposed to be fabric covered, I primed with Tamiya White Primer instead of grey for the other parts. The green is still very dark, so the difference in primer doesn't stand out much. I plan to use oils to slightly tone down the green for the fabric covered parts, so hopefully there will be some difference. I used suede for the bottom lining of the insides and also for the backs of the seats. Fake leather from MFH was used for the 2 conical front thingy which connects to the wheels. Regards, Jeremy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted September 24, 2016 Author Share Posted September 24, 2016 (edited) Hi guys,  Some updates.  Done some minor washes on the chassis. Sorry bout the photos, but i guess the wash was too subtle to be seen. I didn't want a heavily weathered look, so kept the weathering to a minimal. Weathering was done using dark brown washes, and some oil paints (dark blue, tan and raw umber).  The body, floor and seats were placed on to make sure the fit is ok.          Would appreciate any feedback on how the weathering can be improved. Looking at the photos, i will add some pigments especially at the fuel tank guard.  For the colour, I switched to Zero Paints. I used Gravity paints at the beginning, but their Bentley colour is not the dark olive of the Birkin Blower. I would say Gravity's colour is similar to the one in the kit's colour guide.  Regards,  Jeremy Edited September 24, 2016 by Jnkm13 Additional comments 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted September 24, 2016 Share Posted September 24, 2016 Regards weathering Jeremy ... it looks as though you've built it "ex-works, restored or heavily fettled" therefore I might suggest you go for a "Patinated" look rather than heavy weathering. Perhaps just keep it down to some light dust and moist oil? - That kind of thing, it'll stop you getting bogged down with the build as well (ask me how I know). ................... I've had a few ideas myself since watching yours come together also - thinking of another "barn-find" scenario. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted September 24, 2016 Author Share Posted September 24, 2016 Hi Andi, Â Thanks for the feedback. I have managed to get some light patina on it. Just that my photography skills suck. The photos are not able to capture the light weathering. Perhaps it's also the dark colour which makes the weathering difficult to see on the photos. I'll also be adding some light dust once i get the wheels on so that it looks more uniform. Â Regards, Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted September 24, 2016 Share Posted September 24, 2016 (edited) Hello Jeremy,  nice progress. it seems most Bentleys were kept immaculate. So if i may i second Andy's advice for very light weathering. Perhaps the seats and leather wrinkles, but the body paint etc. were impeccable. Don t forget Bentleys and RRs were the best at painting cars at the time. i forgot how many layers they went for, but i read somewhere they were by far better than the others including Bugattis.  So, for my two kopeks worth,  i would really focus on getting the best paint job possible for this car, mirror finish, just as Codger did for his Codger Royce. also, particular care for the grill and the wheels duplication and scale details. Edited September 24, 2016 by sharknose156 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted September 24, 2016 Share Posted September 24, 2016 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 She's looking great - and it's nice to see those shocks fit so well, a big relief! BTW there's a chassis cross member missing at the rear, it fits just under the rear of the body and is visible with the body on.....if you need any detail shots for the engine/bulkhead area I just got some pics sent to me from Beaulieu. Their car is a conversion but some of the detail is the same.... Â Ian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted September 25, 2016 Author Share Posted September 25, 2016 Sam, the pic you posted is the look I'm going for. More weathering on the lower parts and cleaner finish on the upper half.  Ian, I'll PM you my email address. Would appreciate the pictures. Thanks!  Regards, Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpnuts Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 Great work on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted September 26, 2016 Author Share Posted September 26, 2016 Hi guys, Â Would like to get your opinion on the screen. I have added the mesh to it and will be replicating the look on Amalgam's Bentley. Â 1) Do you think the mesh looks ok? Might be a tad oversized, but it would be difficult to get scale replication of the correct mesh. I would think if it's really to scale, it would impossible to see through a 1/12 mesh of the original. 2) Any idea how to replicate the wingnuts circled in red? I can't seem to find any manufacturers of 1/12 wingnuts. Â Â Â Â Thanks. Â Regards, Jeremy 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted November 19, 2016 Author Share Posted November 19, 2016 Hi guys, Â Some updates. I have since gone back and redo the insect screen, replacing it with a finer mesh.Think it looks better now. The hoods have also been hinged, tail lights hollowed out and some details added to the back of it where it attaches to the fuel tank. Â Â For the fenders, i have added some rivets, and will add more once the colour coat is on. The attachment arms were replaced with ally tubes. A soft copper wire was inserted into the ally tube so that it takes the bends without kinking. Reason ally tube was used was because the ends of the ally tube can be flattened easily as shown in the pics. The ally tubes were attached to the fenders using epoxy putty and also small nails. Â Â Regards, Jeremy 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Fiat Posted November 19, 2016 Share Posted November 19, 2016 Wow. just wow!! Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted November 19, 2016 Share Posted November 19, 2016 Very nice.  Regards  Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpnuts Posted November 19, 2016 Share Posted November 19, 2016 Incredible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver911 Posted November 19, 2016 Share Posted November 19, 2016 For wing nuts.....these any good?.....http://www.axels-modellbau-shop.de/katalog/en/RC-Military-Models/Accessories-1/16-RC-Tanks/Common-Accessories/Butterfly-Screw-Set-1-16::492.html?MODsid=ad3b03e6403f618db6aa6a46625fe37a  Ron 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted November 19, 2016 Share Posted November 19, 2016 16 hours ago, Jnkm13 said: Hi guys,  Some updates. I have since gone back and redo the insect screen, replacing it with a finer mesh.Think it looks better now. The hoods have also been hinged, tail lights hollowed out and some details added to the back of it where it attaches to the fuel tank.   For the fenders, i have added some rivets, and will add more once the colour coat is on. The attachment arms were replaced with ally tubes. A soft copper wire was inserted into the ally tube so that it takes the bends without kinking. Reason ally tube was used was because the ends of the ally tube can be flattened easily as shown in the pics. The ally tubes were attached to the fenders using epoxy putty and also small nails.   Regards, Jeremy  Absolutely amazing, Sam  How did you manufacture the hood hinge ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted November 19, 2016 Share Posted November 19, 2016 Very nice. I love those mudguard (fender) stays, I'll keep that method in mind as and when I get back to mine. Â Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted November 21, 2016 Author Share Posted November 21, 2016 Thanks guys. Â CrazyCrank, I'm Jeremy. Sam's Sharknose.... Â For the hood hinge, i used this miniature piano hinge. It can be cut to the desired length. Slightly oversized, but it should do. The main problem would be to secure the hinge to the body as there is no ready attachment point on the body and the radiator shell. Â Regards, Jeremy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted November 21, 2016 Author Share Posted November 21, 2016 @limeypilot Ian, for the firewall, I added the lip as what you did. The problem is that the hood closes flush on the firewall without the lip. Adding the lip will not allow the hood to close flush. If the firewall is lowered, this would affect the angle of the steering column. I've not decided on how to go about this yet.  Regards, Jeremy  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 7 minutes ago, Jnkm13 said: Thanks guys.  CrazyCrank, I'm Jeremy. Sam's Sharknose....  For the hood hinge, i used this miniature piano hinge. It can be cut to the desired length. Slightly oversized, but it should do. The main problem would be to secure the hinge to the body as there is no ready attachment point on the body and the radiator shell.  Regards, Jeremy  Sorry Jeremy, apologies Thank you for the tip...and where did you purchase your miniature piano hinge ?  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted November 21, 2016 Author Share Posted November 21, 2016 19 minutes ago, CrazyCrank said:  Sorry Jeremy, apologies Thank you for the tip...and where did you purchase your miniature piano hinge ?   No worries.  I purchased the miniature piano hinge from Micromark. It's made by Dumas, so you might find it in the European stores as well. http://www.micromark.com/miniature-brass-piano-hinge-360-in-x-15-in,11074.html  Regards, Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnkm13 Posted November 21, 2016 Author Share Posted November 21, 2016 On 11/20/2016 at 0:14 AM, silver911 said: For wing nuts.....these any good?.....http://www.axels-modellbau-shop.de/katalog/en/RC-Military-Models/Accessories-1/16-RC-Tanks/Common-Accessories/Butterfly-Screw-Set-1-16::492.html?MODsid=ad3b03e6403f618db6aa6a46625fe37a  Ron  Thanks for the info Ron! Much appreciated.  Regards, Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 4 hours ago, Jnkm13 said:  No worries.  I purchased the miniature piano hinge from Micromark. It's made by Dumas, so you might find it in the European stores as well. http://www.micromark.com/miniature-brass-piano-hinge-360-in-x-15-in,11074.html  Regards, Jeremy  Thanks for the info Jermey ! Much appreciated  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 Dear Jeremy   excellent work all over !!  I love the fact you took the plunge with the piano hinges, here is a brave one ! Very nice detailing of the mud guards.   knowing your mastery of painting, this car will be a show stopper  just for info:  You can do smaller and thinner hinges yourself simply with a brass tube, and a brass rod inserted. The trick is to make only three parts, both ends and the middle part a bit longer. Then you glue each one the three parts on a thin brass plate the length of the part. This you will glue to the two bonnets alternating two parts on pne bonnet and the middle to the other bonnet. You can then make small incisions all along the tubes to give the illusion of small parts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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