Another collection of newbie questions

[Tomathee]

I'm going to go back over my threads and put everything on one list, picked up more tips than I can remember. Anyway;

How do you normally hold a model for priming/painting etc? I've seen some people use a rotating stand, not sure how you flip it over to do the bottom though. I've seen people use a pencil or similar in a lump of blutac at the front of eg a spitfire before the propellor is added, but that doesn't apply to jets etc or planes which need the propellor in from the start. The model I've been working on I tried blutac and a kebab stick in a wheel well but that had issues- the blutac didn't stick well, it wasn't strong enough to stop wobbling when I painted and it didn't balance when I put the stick into polystyrene to dry. By the end I gave up and just held it by the tail fin to paint, and put it onto a few cocktail sticks in the wheel bays to hold it while I did the last bit and left for drying. That has its own problems in getting a uniform finish, leaving fingerprints and risking breaking off the part I'm holding. Next time I want to try spray priming and probably spray varnish for a better finish so I need a better way of supporting it anyway. Probably a simple fix but it's passed me by so far.

Storing to dry -read several threads of dust befalling a nicely painted or varnished model while it dries. This one has been small enough to just put in a tupperware with the lid on but what is done with larger models, either after painting or varnishing.

Plastic card or its other names- its recommended for filling bigger gaps, is it better to get a sheet and cut to size as required or use the shape parts, such as I or Z, and is there a 'recommended' minimum thickness to use? Local shop has 'plastruct' which has a load of options and thicknesses but I don't want to go overboard on it.

Thanks for reading and the patience for us newbies

[TheBaron]

Hi Tomathee,

As a comparative newcomer myself I sympathize with your quandary, as I'm still experimenting myself.

I don't know what method you use to spray your primer (airbrush or rattlecan?). Personally I've settled on the perennial favourite of a can of Halfords grey primer, I take the model outside on a sheet of cardboard somewhere away from the house (and the car...but that's another story) and spray the necessary parts (wearing disposable plastic gloves to hold/turn convenient parts of the aircraft etc.) The primer is fairly quick drying on a dry day so for a 1:72 model, getting the primer on in this way only takes 10-15 mins tops. Within half an hour it's cured enough to bring in the house.

TBH I've never had a problem with dust priming outside like this.

For subsequent airbrushing at the bench (get yourself a respirator or a spray booth if you haven't already...) I don't find I need any fancy stands etc., as with priming I either have the model sitting on kitchen towel on the bench, or holding it wearing the aforementioned disposable gloves. This is all with acrylics of course, you don't say if you're using enamels. As a precaution I'll sometimes use the (unfilled!) airbrush as a 'leaf-blower' before starting in order to blow any potential dust away from the painting area before starting up with the paint.

Those inflatable plastic pockets you sometimes get used as packing are worth saving to sit the model on sometimes as they provide good cushioning for any fragile parts like antennae.

As for plasticard, as I've only recently started scratch building bits myself and found sizing equally confusing (I don't live near a model shop to be able to go in an examine it by eye); I got a 'pick and mix' packet from Evergreen containing different thickness of card and pipes which has proved very useful and avoided any costly buys. For 1:72 models 0.5mmx0.5mm strips seem a popular choice for building interior ribbing etc. I haven't used any 'I' or 'Z' beams to be able to give you any info on that aspect.

I'm sure you'll attract plenty of other good recommendations from other BMers - these are just the things that have worked for me.

Look forwards to seeing your work!

Tony

Edited May 6, 2016 by TheBaron

[Tomathee]

Cheers Tony, nice informative response, this forum has been really good for me as a newbie I hope you found/find it the same at your level.

At the moment Im brushing everything, but in future I'll rattle as much as I can, primer and varnish should be able to fully switch over, i guess actual spray painting depends on availability of the colour in can form and practicality of the particular model (thinking camoflage scheme might be tough with a can). Airbrush isn't possible at the moment, maybe when we move into a house. Had a can of halfords primer ready for my next model to get going so that's a good first step.

My main issue with the holding question was around my (perceived) issue of say, painting the top half, then sticking fingers in wet paint to turn it over for the bottom, also then bringing wet paint on the bottom into contact with whatever table/mat/paper is underneath. Also to fill in the other missing detail of using acrylic rather than enamel.

The dust horror stories I'd come across were usually at the varnishing stage, especially gloss. I have space in a cupboard which should be ok, was curious if others use a different method.

The pick and mix is a good suggestion, I imagine there will be times when sheet and rods are useful.

Thanks again

[TheBaron]

I see your point about the top/bottom thing whilst holding/painting.

I have used some of those bamboo skewers you get for the barbecue, inserted in the hole where the prop goes. Lots of pound shops seem to have them these days. They're bigger than a cocktail stick so fit some holes perfectly, others you can just shave a bit off and it's a nice tight fit.

Like yourself, I'm just finding out what works as I stumble along....

Tony

[DaveCromie]

I see your point about the top/bottom thing whilst holding/painting.

I have used some of those bamboo skewers you get for the barbecue, inserted in the hole where the prop goes. Lots of pound shops seem to have them these days. They're bigger than a cocktail stick so fit some holes perfectly, others you can just shave a bit off and it's a nice tight fit.

Like yourself, I'm just finding out what works as I stumble along....

Tony

^^ absolutely although I use cocktail sticks as their shorter length means less leverage.

DC

[Greenshirt]

I'm going to go back over my threads and put everything on one list, picked up more tips than I can remember. Anyway;

How do you normally hold a model for priming/painting etc?

I have a lazy Susan that I picked up for nothing at a boot sale. I wrap it in newsprint and set the model on it, rotating as I paint or prime the top or bottom. After it's dried I flip it and do the other side.

Storing to dry

Hmm, my room is vented with a good filter, so little dust. I just let my models sit in the booth when I stop painting to let it dry. I typically give primer about 2 hours, acrylic 24 hours and enamels a full week to dry/cure before I handle them.

Plastic card or its other names

I prefer buying sheets of .010 and .020 thickness (inches here in US). I just cur what I need to fill gaps and stick them in. I also use sprue from the kit. Heat it and stretch it a bit. Heat over a candle unti it is shiny, then pull it to about the thickness you want. Pull it really thin and you have aerial wires.

Tim

[Bernie Mac]

I have a lazy Susan that I picked up for nothing at a boot sale. I wrap it in newsprint and set the model on it, rotating as I paint or prime the top or bottom. After it's dried I flip it and do the other side.

Hmm, my room is vented with a good filter, so little dust. I just let my models sit in the booth when I stop painting to let it dry. I typically give primer about 2 hours, acrylic 24 hours and enamels a full week to dry/cure before I handle them.

I prefer buying sheets of .010 and .020 thickness (inches here in US). I just cur what I need to fill gaps and stick them in. I also use sprue from the kit. Heat it and stretch it a bit. Heat over a candle unti it is shiny, then pull it to about the thickness you want. Pull it really thin and you have aerial wires.

Tim

I would agree with Tim on this regarding plasticard. I have found that getting a variety of thicknesses, and by that I generally just mean three...ish. I have a 1mm, 0.5mm and I think a 0.25mm. With a steal rule and sharp blade you can get all the square sections, planks and all sorts you need. After that then I would look at the variety pack for round or square tubes. Having said this I don't find it as useful as the plan sheets. Generally I can make whatever it is out of sheet that I was going to make with the box section. Although it is handy for making "brackets" for making boxes.

If you are looking at wiring or "piping" I have recently been converted to stretched sprue. I was skeptical at first but I have to say I am converted. Its as simple as Tim says, just grab a candle, some old spures and a beer (beers optional for me it was whiskey) and just roll the sprue over the candle and pull it apart slowly to the desired thickness away from the candle. Be sure to stop before it breaks so it will remain soft. Another advantage is that you can glue it poly-cement and it is very easy to bend.

Regarding the storing to dry...I have never had issues with dust, and I work in a small room in a flat with the window open, never had any issues.