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Building/Painting/Masking Tutorial: Heller Citroen 15 CV


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Another thing to think about....

I once had a similar problem with "spitting" like you did. I got little chunks of partly cured 2K clear in the finish....just like you did. I think it came about because I re-used a bottle to mix the 2K in that I had previously used, and I think I failed to clean it adequately and it still had some of the old finish in it.

Anyway....I went ahead and sprayed my wet coat over the "spitting". Then once everything was fully hardened and cured, it was very simple to sand/polish out the bumps and flaws from the spitting. They were sort of encapsulated in the urethane and completely disappeared.

Just something to consider if you run into similar problems in the future.

I think you are on to something!

I did indeed use the same mixing cup as I had for when I clear coated the wheels. Maybe that is the cause of the problem. Instead of freaking out and stopping when I saw the spit marks, maybe I should just have continued coating it and I would have had the same experience as you.

In any event, it's too late now. I dumped the whole thing in 100% pure IPA and can now look forward spending an evening in the fumes stripping the thing.

It's all part of the learning experience!!!!

But thanks to all for your insights in respect of this most unfortunate incident.

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Please let me know if the IPA strips the urethane....I didn't realize it would and knowing that would be useful for me.

I've just finished stripping the whole thing. It's drying now and will send a pic tomorrow.

Here's what I did:

1. I only put a mist coat of 2 K on, and then stopped when I saw the spit marks. So the body was never fully coated with several layers of 2K.

2. A couple of hours later I sanded most of the 2 K coat off.

3. I submerged the body in 100% IPA for about 24 hours.

4. I stripped it entirely. What was left of the 2K was easy to strip off, and the flat black paint as well. The most difficult thing to remove was the primer, especially around the knobs and edges.

Pics tomorrow.

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It looks like it is....maybe just a bit of sanding needed in the tight areas.

Nice to be able to give it a second go with a clean slate, huh?

Thanks for the feedback…. I'll sand the tighter areas as clean as I can….

Believe it or not, this is actually the third go….

In the very beginning, I had painted this body with Tamiya gloss black from a rattle can. This was my very first serious paint job. The result were quite decent (after 6 layers, lots of micro-mesh sanding in between, and applying micro-gloss) and are posted at the start of this thread.

However, I wanted to learn how to airbrush…. so I stripped everything off, and then painted it again with an airbrush… the results were really good, I thought (also see above)….

But then I applied the 2K…. and disaster struck…. you know the rest.

I really do hope that I don't need to strip it again!

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Somewhat of topic, but I thought that those of you who followed the Pocher Ducati Panigale thread might be interested to know how this beautiful machine looks in its display case (which I just received):

display%20case_zpswjfatkzk.jpg

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Nothing. Nothing at all. Nothing happened here, and move along unless you want this useful thread closed. There are plenty of other channels to share your thoughts (everyone...) so let's at least keep the spirit of cross border co-operation active here, eh?

Bestest,

M.

(Who has much more to say, but not here...)

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Nothing. Nothing at all. Nothing happened here, and move along unless you want this useful thread closed. There are plenty of other channels to share your thoughts (everyone...) so let's at least keep the spirit of cross border co-operation active here, eh?

Bestest,

M.

(Who has much more to say, but not here...)

You're right. Bad call on my part. This is not the place to discuss this.

The model building spirit is good for this world.

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As ever, there's more that unites us than divides us... That's not politics, but human nature. Here, we're ALL ABOUT what we have in common...

There are a lot of fences to be mended now, and who better to do that well, than people who agonise over how to stick one thing to another and fill the gaps in between?

Personally, it's a wake up call that there are (much) more important things than plastic...

Best,

M.

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Friends and Tutors,

You may notice some slowdown in activity in this thread.

This is entirely due to the good weather in Geneva and upcoming holidays.

When the sun shines, I am inclined to play golf and spend time splashing about in the lake, rather than figuring out how to properly attach one piece of plastic to another in a room filled with noxious fumes.

Hope to be able to count our your continued support when activity picks up again.

David

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  • 3 months later...

Dear friends,

 

During the summer, I wasn't motivated to do much work on the little Avant. 

 

Now that winter is coming, I've turned my attention to it again.

 

Some of you may recall the disastrous results of the zero-paints 2K clear because of the "spitting" effect:

 

2%20K%20spit%20marks_zpslshshplh.jpg

 

I've tried to correct this and I'll show you the results in the next post.

 

David

Edited by David_64
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Here is the results after all the work described below:

 

Final3_zpsvnsfv73g.jpg

 

final4_zps8ppqyvof.jpg

 

Here is a description of what I did to get to this result:

 

1. I stripped everything off, including primer with EPA.

 

2. I airbrushed with Tamiya acrylic flat black (2 or 3 coats).

 

3. I let it dry for a week.

 

4. I airbrushed Zero-Paints 2 K Clear. The result was not great. The finish was not smooth and there were quite a few dust marks.

 

5. I wet sanded with 1500, 2000, 3000, 4000, 8000 and 12000 grit.

 

6. I applied Meguiar's Scratch X 2.0 (three passes).

 

7. I applied Meguiar's Deep Crystal Polish.

 

8. I applied Meguiar's Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax.

 

If any experts are still following this thread, I'd like to get some feedback on how poor/good you think the result is.

 

One thing I am not entirely happy with are the window edges. These still look rough, because I did not dare to sand them, worrying that I would burn through the paint. 

 

Best,

 

David

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1 hour ago, David_64 said:

This any better:

 

final%205_zpspzritxpb.jpg 

It's a better photo David, but there's still much to go on as far as making a judgement is concerned. Get some more lights in there and open the aperture up...the more light reflections the better! :)

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4 hours ago, David_64 said:

On this one the deficiencies are quite apparent:

 

final6_zpska9u04cg.jpg

 

 

Far more useful photo David!

 

To be fair, considering your lack of painting experience, you've done a good job! I am going to be very harsh though and make some suggestions to improve the finish, - you will risk burning through the paint and probably ending up hating me! :)

 

Those door skins have the perfect shape for sanding. I would go back to the 1500 and stick some with double-sided tape to a kebab stick to give you a flat tool. We have these in many UK supermarkets and I find them very handy:

 

IMAG4235_zps0sbivsqg.jpg

 

Use a scalpel to cut the paper edges to the handle shape only when it's firmly stuck down. Chose both the long edges as the bits that will sand close to the door waistline. Try to cut the abrasive edge so it's 0.5mm less than the handle width. This is for the safety of the waistline (so you don't score it!). In theory you should be able to get right into the corners without making a mess.

 

Wash the wax off and use loads of soapy water as a lubricant and start sanding very gently all over. You need to remove any trace of shiney paint in those low spots around the door edges. Do not even think about going to a finer grade until the door paint is totally matt and lacking any texture. Then repeat the method with the finer grades, before hitting the polish. 

 

The window and waistline I would tackle with thin strips of abrasive, maybe folded in two to make them stiffer. Those areas really need to be just tickled to remove the texture without burning through.

 

Hope this helps?

 

John

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John,

 

Many thanks for your precious advice, and my apologies for my late response. I was quite busy with work stuff last week.

 

I would like to proceed as you suggest. However, I have a few questions:

 

1. The first thing I should do is to wash the body in soapy water to get the wax off. Is that correct?

 

2. I have kebab sticks similar to the one you show on the picture. It's not entirely clear from your explanation where I should stick the abrasive. Should I stick it on the small "vertical" edge on the left hand side of your picture OR on the longer "horizontal" edge on the bottom side of your picture OR on both?

 

3. Once I have stuck the abrasive to the kebab stick, should I sand the entire door panel, or just the "corner" parts where the previous polishing did not reach well enough. If you think I should do the entire door panel, should I then not also do the roof? If you need to see a picture of the roof before deciding, I can send you one.

 

4. How many passes with what grits should I do?

 

Best,

 

David

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