tc2324 Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 My next `inflight` dio happens to be the rather old`ish Airfix 1/48 Canberra B.1. A few update piccies......, Although the kit is getting on a bit, I have to say I`m very impressed with the fit and sturdyness of the kit. The last two pictures in particular show parts dry fitted and first impressions leave me in no doubt that filler is hardly, if at all, required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tc2324 Posted May 6, 2016 Author Share Posted May 6, 2016 Some progress made on the build which has gone together with little fuss. Now awaiting the perspex rod so I can work out the CofG and drill a hole to the right diameter before I progress. If anyone has some interesting pictures of Canberra`s releaseing bombs, I`d love to see them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tc2324 Posted May 6, 2016 Author Share Posted May 6, 2016 Started to work on the diorama part this evening by drilling the appropriate hole in the kit for the perspex rod to fit in to it. Next, off to a neighbour up the road who`s a demon woodwork expert when it comes to simple bases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snapper_city Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 Always loved the Canberra Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stever219 Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 (edited) Good start: have you got a unit and/or colour scheme in mind? Don't forget that the bomb doors slide upwards inside the bay, rather than being hinged along the top edges. Canberra Kid has posted a lot of useful information on here and his own website and the "wiggly amps" thread in WIP is definitely worth a decent perusal over a mug of coffee (other hot and cold beverages are available). Edited May 14, 2016 by stever219 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tc2324 Posted May 14, 2016 Author Share Posted May 14, 2016 Primary spray painting finished. Not sure I`ve got the right shades of grey right but too late now. A big thank you though for the heads up on the bomb doors positioning. I`m not a Canberra expert and would not of picked up on that. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stever219 Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 Quote: Not sure I`ve got the right shades of grey right but too late now. A big thank you though for the heads up on the bomb doors positioning. I`m not a Canberra expert and would not of picked up on that. [/quotte] The colours look close enough. Although Canberras were usually painted in gloss they tended to fade and get progressively less glossy in service. Good matches for the greys are Humbrol 164 (Dark Sea Grey) and 166 (Light Aircraft Grey). Humbrol 27 isn't too bad for a weathered and slightly faded Dark Sea Grey and either 163 or 116 can suffice for Dark Green. Other manufacturers' paints are available... You' d certainly have picked up on the bomb doors if you'd decided to display it standing on its undercarriage with them open; it'd be standing on them instead! Lol! If you can get hold of a copy there's a book entitled " A bucket of sunshine" IIRC, written by a former 16 Squadron RAFG Canberra pilot (Peter Brooke(?)) about his experiences flying the B(I) Mk. 8 in the interdictor and nuclear strike roles in the 1960s. I thoroughly enjoyed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tc2324 Posted May 20, 2016 Author Share Posted May 20, 2016 Thanks for the info Steve. So just when i thought it was all going swimmingly, the dreaded silvering effect appeared. It`s annoyed me as I`m not really a spring chicken at this modelling lark. I am aware of silvering on decals and figured as much with this kit due to it`s `age`. A gloss coat was applied prior to decal placement. Plenty of decal sol and water were applied to the decals and area where the decals were to be placed.Once I started to notice the silvering appearing I gently sliced the decals while in place and applied more decal sol so it could get under the decal to see if that would fix it.Nothing worked and I`m not happy to display this as is. So the question is what now? I`m of the mind to just remove the offending decals and leave it like that. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phildagreek Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 How bad is the silvering? In the past, I have had success with painting in/around the "good" part of the decal. Gloss or Matt varnish over the decals then careful paint job & varnish to your desired finish. Worth a go before you start removing your work. Good luck! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stever219 Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 The kit transfers are pants, and I should have thought to have warned you earlier, for which I apologise. You might be lucky enough to find someone who has part or all of one of the Aviation Workshop/Model Alliance sheets that they'd be willing to part with. Incidentally I was building this kit when it first came out at the back counter of our local hardware shop-cum-model shop (goldings of Bedford) when a customer wandered up, looked at the box art and transfers and said "I've flown that one."! Sadly I didn't get his name, but he did give me a small insight into the world of those who would have had to deliver buckets of instant sunshine east of the Iron Curtain had the Cold War become (very) hot. I had the Model Alliance transfers and he was quite emphatic that WT332, contrary to the sheet's instructions, was one of the few 16 Squadron B(I)8s not to wear the shark's mouth markings. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted May 25, 2016 Share Posted May 25, 2016 (edited) Bad silvering indeed. It's a shame. I'd be tempted to remove the XM227 decals and airbrush them on instead, using masks. Luckily the X, M and 7 are quite simple being made up of straight lines. The 2's though, will test your scalpel skills. There are those who know better how to do it than me, but I believe you can use a printer to help make a mask, photocopying the image onto tape layered onto the printer paper. Good luck, Badder Edited May 25, 2016 by Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tc2324 Posted May 25, 2016 Author Share Posted May 25, 2016 Thank you all chaps for the words of wisdom. In the end, as you will see, I opted to remove the serials and while not perfect you hardly notice they are missing after a while. I worked on the bombs which were the usual Airfix offering complete with large `dent`. Not the best made bombs, but they will do. Then drilled holes and used a bit of clear sprue to fix everything in place. So, with no further ado, here`s the finished item with a nice little base added. More pictures in the main `ready for inspection` thread. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 I hope that base has lead in it. A sudden draught and that Canberra will be down under. Nice job. Just a thought on the bombs... rather than use clear plastic to 'hang' them, how about clear monofilament fishing line? You can get some clear and really fine line (I'm talking 0.12mm thickness) and this would be very hard to see in normal conditions. Maybe an idea for your next bombing run? Rearguards, Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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